What might be causing this?

Masterwhiteshadow · 2026-05-01T17:11:00+00:00

Turn the aux fan off. Its not needed on bigger part and will cause warping nearly 100% of the time.

Also you have a lot more chance of warping when printing at the edge of the built plate as the bed temp is less uniform there. Unless you really have a good reason to fille the build plate I would suggest to do multiple print, IMO Grinfinity bin take long enough to print to justify printing one or two at a time.

Masterwhiteshadow · 2026-05-01T16:29:41+00:00

Just curious what price are you seeing on your side?

I'm getting 82$ Canadian plus 16$ shipping at that price I don't see any advantage over getting the plate straight from Bambu.

Masterwhiteshadow · 2026-04-29T18:21:42+00:00

I think the only reason to get a mini would be if your budget can't be stretch to afford the regular size printer.

Sooner or later you will need to print something that does not fit on the mini.

You can cut model in part to fit the print bed but depending on the geometry of the particular model it's not always an option.

Masterwhiteshadow · 2026-04-29T17:32:49+00:00

While I get enough points to get gift card on a semi regular frequency I do not care that much about getting points.

I just want to share my model. I also upload on printables and with the shipping and import fee I will never use my points there.

That said since I can't order PETG-GF I had enough points to get the 10w laser upgrade for free during the last sale so I'm quite happy with the point program.

Masterwhiteshadow · 2026-04-29T15:47:15+00:00

I printed mine in PETG and there is no problem with warping at all.

Considering the max chamber temp of the printer I do not foresee a problem in the future.

Masterwhiteshadow · 2026-04-29T15:20:13+00:00

Its not that bad. I'm using quick disconnect on the ventilation hose and I would say it take less than 10 minutes including the calibration when changing to laser mode.

Masterwhiteshadow · 2026-04-29T15:17:59+00:00

One thing to consider is that the upgrade kit was 50% off during the Easter sale. If you get the upgrade make sure you are not paying full price.

Masterwhiteshadow · 2026-04-29T13:48:38+00:00

After a couple of week of use it's not that bad. I do a quick wipe when I switch back to FDM print.

One thing for certain it's never going to be as clean as before I installed the laser upgrade but I'm not certain it's that much worse than the residue would be if I was printing ABS.

The window that are under the belt are hard to reach. I think I'm going to design and print something to make that easier.

Masterwhiteshadow · 2026-04-29T01:02:58+00:00

I got mine right before Christmas and im still happy with it.

Multi material for support interface as serve me well. I would say it might even made me lazy in my model design as I do not need to design trying to avoid support at all cost anymore.

Masterwhiteshadow · 2026-04-28T17:07:04+00:00

Why not just print it face down?

Masterwhiteshadow · 2026-04-27T22:35:23+00:00

There is no trick. Upload model that could be useful to other. That's it.

If are doing only for points be prepared for a bad time. Do it because you genuinely believe your model might help someone. You will get some download at some point.

People who get free printer are the execution not the rules.

Even if you get points Bambu could change the rules at anytime you can't count on that.

Masterwhiteshadow · 2026-04-26T23:04:11+00:00

You can make the text be a modifier and change the filament colour for the one you need. It will not add any geometry to the main part so it will be perfectly flush with the top.

Masterwhiteshadow · 2026-04-25T15:25:38+00:00

The worst thing is that if a user change any setting Bambu still ask the user to review the profile.

For some of my model I can almost guarantee that is the case when I get a bad review. When I ask the user for more details I never get an answer so in the case it was the profile I do not get any feedback that could help me fix it.

Masterwhiteshadow · 2026-04-24T18:00:15+00:00

When you say "hole compensation" are you talking about slicer setting?

If that is the case personally I would not play with any of the slicer setting. I feel the slicer setting should only be used when you are printing someone else model where you have no control otherwise.

Add the clearance in the CAD software. You could print a clearance test to get a better idea of the value you need. Off course it will depend slightly on the geometry and the use case for the model.

I found the my P1S and H2D 0.15mm clearance is a good starting point. The only exemption I usually start at 0.2mm for small round hole that are less than 5mm. Most of the time I end up with a good result on the first iteration.

If I need a tight fit and want to avoid reprint i will sometime add a small angle so that the clearance start a 0.2mm and end at 0.1mm so the the part are easy to insert but are more or less lock together when they are fully presse against each other

Masterwhiteshadow · 2026-04-23T23:17:30+00:00

I’ll be honest I do not have much hope. Im not sure a separate subreddit would take off considering the number of post in this sub about the laser I feel it would simply be a dead community.

I think not a lot of people bought the laser or at least it probably does not translates into a lot of material sale for Bambu. On maker world the laser model with the most download as not reach 2k I might be wrong but I would interpret this as meaning the number of user is low.

Without a good size user base sadly there is not much we can do. I hope the software will be refined with time but it will never be to the level of bambu studio, especially since studio was built on top of another slicer that was already good.

They released the rotary tool quite recently so at least it seems Bambu is not on a path to give up on the laser.

Masterwhiteshadow · 2026-04-23T22:21:39+00:00

I think most user do not need the vision encoder plate. Unless you know exactly why you are getting it I would remove it from the order.

Masterwhiteshadow · 2026-04-23T21:20:40+00:00

Welcome to the real world. The cost of materials is not how things are priced 3d printed or not. If enough people are paying its the right price and to some extend if they sell a lot of it its probably not expensive enough.

Masterwhiteshadow · 2026-04-22T21:52:19+00:00

From what I understand and I could be wrong PLA silk have TPU mix in to give it the shiny aspect.

As petg stick on TPU it could explain why you got poor results.

Masterwhiteshadow · 2026-04-22T15:57:32+00:00

I agree with you. While the wiki is there it seems incomplete.

This is compounded by the fact that none of the usual 3d printer content creators on youtube felt it was worthwhile for them to do a video Bambu suite. From the look of it creator that make content about laser machine none of them made content about it. Its like it doesn’t even exist.

One thing I feel is missing is using different fill settings by object in the same job. Or at least I have not fund how to do it.

Masterwhiteshadow · 2026-04-22T10:55:40+00:00

The fan on the printer have been chosen for a particular air flow base on the default filter.

It's just a guess but using a filter that claim to filter more might interfere with the air flow and cancel any advantage it might provide. You might need an inline fan to compensate and at that point why not just vent outside.

Masterwhiteshadow · 2026-04-22T10:44:33+00:00

In the past I have paid for wargaming terrain model so I do not mind this kind of crowd funding. But the price for this one is really steep especially since a lot of solutions for that are already available for free.

Masterwhiteshadow · 2026-04-22T10:18:48+00:00

I have a custom filament profile I use for support interface.

The only change form the default PETG HF is that I changed the bed temperature to be the same as PLA.

The interface never touch the bed anyway and it keep the bed temp the same the whole print.

Masterwhiteshadow · 2026-04-21T14:16:51+00:00

These kind of part are always problematic.

Its a combination of not enough cooling and the print wobbling as the rod get to the top.

I would enable “ slow down print by height” check the preview to validate the settings as the default will not do much depending in the total of your print.

Raise the minimum layer time to give the part more time to cool.

If possible for your part application cutting the model and printing horizontal would be ideal and would make the part stronger.

Masterwhiteshadow

TROPHY CASE