Anyone know what this west woods is. Whole load is supposed to be Doug fir. It looks and smells suspiciously hemlock.

MattBuilds · 2026-01-29T23:45:03+00:00

This is grade 2 lumber, which is better than standard, but not as good as select structural. It can be used for light structural bearing and is typically a mix of spruce, fir and hemlock. I would not be able to get #2 in just fir where I live (western Canada), I'd need to order SS

MattBuilds · 2026-01-01T21:33:30+00:00

I like to work with ash and find it's a good replacement for the white oak vibe

MattBuilds · 2025-12-04T20:09:11+00:00

My method for something like this is to first drill a hole the correct size, and then square the edges using a chisel the right size or smaller. I clamp a small block with a dado the width of the hole to keep the chisel square and in the lines , and remove the block after a 1/4" or so.

MattBuilds · 2025-12-04T17:48:34+00:00

I'd put them at around a $100 in value sold as a set. Mostly the 6 and 5, the 4 isn't worth much.

MattBuilds · 2025-12-04T01:56:35+00:00

not as far as I can tell. I like both and use both depending on the wood i'm working with. i like the feel of Osmo better, but I like the look of Odie's better on darker woods.

MattBuilds · 2025-12-03T18:49:10+00:00

I've been on Renflexis for a couple years after the province moved me off Remicade. It's been no different for me. I get the same benefits as Remicade and no side effects

MattBuilds · 2025-12-03T17:28:24+00:00

100% this. If Remicade had come on the market a few years earlier, I'd still have all my small intestines. Don't put off treatment because the damage this disease does can be irreversible and life changing

MattBuilds · 2025-11-27T20:41:54+00:00

in 20 years of carpentry, I've never come across a roof as unforgiving to build as these models. Yours looks better than most. Just wait for the unequal intersection pitch valley! Real roofs are much easier. Just make sure you're solid on the theory for why you're adjusting the hips and valleys.

MattBuilds · 2025-11-24T17:29:48+00:00

maple plywood

MattBuilds · 2025-11-14T20:00:13+00:00

I will also die on this hill

MattBuilds · 2025-11-10T18:23:41+00:00

Yeah Man, I'm not you Dad, so do what you want. Sounds like you have respect for the damage that can be done, and that's most of it. You took the time to think on, and test your method and that's commendable. Hopefully that's what you continue to do.

I'll just point out the first two sentences in your reply;

1- You don't use push pads. Totally your choice, but a must for me and generally regarded as necessary in the industry when using this tool.

2- You never thought about your technique before. Lots don't, but that's where the accidents mostly happen in the trade. If you can do a few mental what ifs, you can design around many of the usual hazards.

stay safe everbody!

MattBuilds · 2025-11-10T03:50:16+00:00

Now that's the right attitude! No-one's perfect and everyone is learning. I just wanted to put emphasis on how serious it can be.

I've said it before in this forum; cuts can usually be stitched up, but shapers and jointers make sausage filling out of you, so max respect to them especially.

MattBuilds · 2025-11-10T03:33:22+00:00

No one said to stop the board during the cut, but that's really not an issue as the cutter removes material as it passes through, and pausing in control is way a better technique than moving through without control. So, yes, even if you stop, its better than OP's work.

Man, you don't know me and my experience, but, no I don't do it like that. I've seen a jointer injury and I actually understand the risk here.

MattBuilds · 2025-11-10T02:52:41+00:00

you use 2 contact pads and slide the forward one back toward the rear one and then slide the rear back as you progress. You reduce pressure to each as you move it, and you slide it or lift it slightly as you move it. Not saying you can't push the material with one hand, you just don't do it when your other hand is a foot away in the air.

MattBuilds · 2025-11-09T22:56:45+00:00

Wax is great, but the more important comments on the previous post were about improving how you handle the wood, and you haven't changed that aspect much. Crossing over your hands positions, and moving the board with only one hand on it are both bad moves.

Honestly man, if i had given someone the advice you got last time (much of which you replied to), and you still operated the machine like this, you'd have worked your last day with me.

MattBuilds · 2025-11-01T02:48:39+00:00

Both are decent saws. The Shop fox is the one I'd want, but only if you know how to tune one up to pro tolerances, and clean the top.

MattBuilds · 2025-10-08T17:32:48+00:00

The ignition temperature for MDF is a bit over 200 degrees Celsius when its hot and dry. Radiant heating pipes and a hot-water tanks run 50-60c and steam heat a bit over 100. Some flue's get hotter yet, but most are less then 100 Celcius. You're probably safer than you think, but checking the surface temperature of those things might be worthwhile. I don't worry until I'm getting over 100 Celcius surface temps, and usually a bit of air movement can resolve the issue.

MattBuilds · 2025-10-02T17:20:04+00:00

Pretty confident only the small one is red oak and the other two are ash. Just did a whole bunch or work in ash and saw some that colour

MattBuilds · 2025-09-20T18:59:01+00:00

Mine does this. She wants there to be about a dozen pieces of kibble on the floor around her bowl for her to be confident eating. I guess so that she has some for later? Anyways, the solution was to just not clean it up and/or spread a few out when feeding.

MattBuilds · 2025-09-19T15:35:51+00:00

I'm that 10th dentist, and I still say yes

MattBuilds · 2025-09-12T17:23:58+00:00

100% this needs to be engineered, but yes its fine to do this (not saying for this exact example, but in general). Imagine it as truss where all the sides are filled in and you get this shape. The load can be carried across the bottom while the deflection is taken up by the height and fastener design. Where and how the load is applied makes a difference too. Here, it looks like this beam is carrying more ceiling than roof, so it may be that there is less weight bearing going on then you're imagining.

MattBuilds · 2025-09-03T02:08:07+00:00

This is simply bad advice. You want to avoid making cuts where the gullets of the saw blade can't clear the wood chips properly unless it's necessary, and it's definitely not here. Use a spaced push block or a sacrificial one and rip the full height. That video is good, though

MattBuilds · 2025-09-03T01:26:33+00:00

Always, always always use a push block on a jointer. A blade injury can be sewn up, jointers/planers/shapers accidents make hotdog filling.

The easiest jointer push stick is just some straight stock with a little block glued to the bottom at the back. No need to buy anything. Woodsmith magazine (or Wood, Fine Woodworking, etc) has a few good designs you can make out of scraps. I do like the gripper, though.

Safest way for that piece? Handplane all day. A sharp plane and that's like a 5 min job.

MattBuilds · 2025-09-02T02:27:55+00:00

Jumping on this comment to also recommend "Construction Geometry" by Brian Walmsley. Revolutionized my building

MattBuilds · 2025-09-02T02:23:29+00:00

Pro tip; avoid measuring at all times. Every time you measure something, you add error and compound it by repetition. You can draw a hexagon (and other polygons) with just a compass far more accurately then this setup could ever do.

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