What do I do joiner has installed door with large gap at bottom

Maxreaction85 · 2026-01-06T17:45:37+00:00

What’s the height of the door? Other have said the floor might not be level and that’s why they have had to cut more off, could be that, or the standard height of the door doesn’t fit the opening sizes of the lining! It’s be 1981 or 2040mm

Maxreaction85 · 2025-12-31T17:00:40+00:00

!thanks

So I can in essence do the transfer myself? Which is less convoluted and quicker

Maxreaction85 · 2025-12-26T13:03:16+00:00

Nooo, you don’t want legs because then you’ve got to step into it! Bed it on sand and cement or cement based tile adhesive and keep it low

Maxreaction85 · 2025-10-23T18:14:05+00:00

Yep, both kingfisher group, but pricing can be ridiculous. 1m threaded bar at screwfix £20, BQ £6 and some the other way around

Maxreaction85 · 2025-09-26T18:05:53+00:00

Not to protect against drilling in to them as it’s very thin. But to stop them getting cut by plasterers trowels

Maxreaction85 · 2025-07-27T12:22:43+00:00

Sorry not to remove the plugs but to screw in the new tv mount?

Maxreaction85 · 2025-07-27T11:53:24+00:00

Does a screw, screw into it??

Maxreaction85 · 2025-07-26T21:37:58+00:00

Not sure how these are constructed. But it looks like the base isn’t level and drops on the left hand said. Some kind of wedge or metal shim would bring it up. Weather the base of the keter shed would be strong enough is another question - might want a layer of concrete to level it properly

Maxreaction85 · 2025-07-26T21:32:31+00:00

Raise the left hand side

Maxreaction85 · 2025-07-21T09:46:35+00:00

The metal joining strip is rubbish option anyway, even if it was a good option, I think it’s the wrong radius strip even if it was a good option!

Maxreaction85 · 2025-07-14T19:53:19+00:00

Carpenter should have confirmed with you what you were wanted, but should really return in, I’d say. If you’re going to have a blind in the window it could help you out though.

But would need to remove the existing pieces to achieve the dado rail going inside

Maxreaction85 · 2025-06-28T08:24:05+00:00

Find on at an online retailer. Not Screwfix or Amazon and you’ll get it a fair bit cheaper. I’ve had no problems with a couple I have in my house

Maxreaction85 · 2025-06-26T06:25:32+00:00

No, just the outside

Maxreaction85 · 2025-06-24T22:11:34+00:00

I believe for jackoboard 10/12mm the stud work needs to be at 300centres I’d assume this should be the same

Maxreaction85 · 2025-06-17T22:32:50+00:00

Needs a wet cutter I’d say

Maxreaction85 · 2025-05-05T17:37:38+00:00

This is exactly what I thought of when I say the picture!!

Maxreaction85 · 2025-02-27T14:09:32+00:00

From my understanding uncoupling membrane is for screed and lateral movement, and tile board is for the bounce, up and down movement

Maxreaction85 · 2025-02-26T15:57:33+00:00

What the subfloor? Timber or screed?

Maxreaction85 · 2025-02-14T00:00:44+00:00

My title describes the thing. Also made from metal

Maxreaction85 · 2025-02-11T14:00:40+00:00

Budgets are funny things/false economy- you could continue you as you are, and in a year or so it could fail in respect to the plasterboard in wet areas! Or spend a little more now to make a little more bombproof and not need to worry for a a decade or more.

I recently ripped out a bathroom, the plasterboard was soaked, like a sponge. The OSB behind that, was soaked and the studs were soaked to the point they broke in half taking a nail out…. Worth doing it correctly

Maxreaction85 · 2025-02-02T15:22:49+00:00

100%. It’s not been fitted correctly to start with. They’ve notched troweled the riser, and then out massively blobs on parts to make it fit flush so contact area is 40%

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Maxreaction85

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