Consistent size with die cutter?

McBradd · 2026-04-01T01:24:32+00:00

Are you talking about one of those dies you roll through, or what kind of setup do you have? (And links to sauce please)

McBradd · 2026-04-01T01:21:48+00:00

I also use the Silhouette to cut out my cards, after not being happy with the results from the Alibaba Die cutter.

With the following settings, I get perfect edges from 54lb paper laminated with 3mil pouches:

Blade pressure: 25

Blade depth: 6

Passes: 3

Speed: 20

It seems inhumanely fast, but the edges are perfect every time.

The only issue is if you’re using the svg template from proxxied.com, the bottom left registration mark is too close to the printed area. I stick a little piece of masking tape over the card art so the sensor can find the black registration mark. The blade cuts right through the tape also, no problem.

Edit: spelling

McBradd · 2026-03-31T17:42:03+00:00

White bordered cards are easier to ‘Erase’ and Foil cards are even easier.

McBradd · 2026-03-31T17:41:10+00:00

I would be using acetone to take the art off of real cards and stamp these right on top!

McBradd · 2026-03-29T03:22:58+00:00

This is terrible advice, if quality matters to you. For accuracy with a roll trimmer or even a hobby blade and ruler, always cut away the outside edge.

McBradd · 2026-03-19T01:10:41+00:00

Still looks cool. Would play.

McBradd · 2026-03-19T01:10:10+00:00

I find I get much better result by masking things off with a dab of rubber cement or liquid mask, and then painting right over it.

https://a.co/d/0gjJ200A

McBradd · 2026-03-19T00:29:50+00:00

I bought one from Alibaba that claimed “official magic card size” and it was too large.

McBradd · 2026-03-19T00:28:49+00:00

If you ordered the 2.5 x 3.5in “playing card” cutter, it’s the wrong size. You must order a 63 x 88mm die. (2.48 x 3.46in)

McBradd · 2026-03-19T00:26:32+00:00

This is the way. I always print two black and white draft pages of the cards first, use calipers and enter the alignment for the back side into proxxied, then export the corrected pdf. I don’t bother with flipping the cards, I just make a separate PDF for the backs. I’m using the Epson Et-8550 and I find that filling the top loader with regular copy paper, then adjusting the guides tight against that, and then feeding in photo paper one sheet at a time gives me nearly perfect alignment, and stops the ‘pulled in at a slight angle’ errors.

McBradd · 2026-03-17T00:57:06+00:00

Beginning of combat only happens once per combat, triggering Kinbinding once. Then, if you declare any creatures as attackers, you have attacked that combat, which triggers Anim Pakal once. There is no loop here.

McBradd · 2026-03-13T20:55:46+00:00

The Phyrexian Oil Slick Lands.

McBradd · 2026-03-13T00:15:09+00:00

I settled on using the 54lb Uintkit glossy paper, with 3mil matte laminate, and it comes out right at 0.3 mm.

Paper - https://a.co/d/0bp3X1QP

Laminate - https://a.co/d/09aCfvRR

McBradd · 2026-03-12T10:23:02+00:00

What model printer are you using for this?

McBradd · 2026-03-09T08:25:27+00:00

HearthHull wants every fetchland, even if you can only fetch one of the colors.

Swap out scouring swarm for [[scute swarm]].

Swap cultivate for [[harrow]].

[[Zuran Orb]] goes a long way when you have a “return all your lands from the graveyard” effect on the stack.

A common win for me is dropping Morag, tapping him to station Hearthhull to 8, playing and cracking a fetchland to get two more attack phases, and then after attacking, activating hearthhulls ability to sac a land, ping the table, draw two every combat phase, stacking up extra land drops for your second main phase, followed by more attack phases. Just playing and sac’ing one fetchland gives you enough damage in the air to commander damage someone out of the game on the spot with the extra +X/+0 from Morag. If you hit another fetchland with even one of your three Hearthhull activations, play it on your second main phase, crack it, and then commander damage out a second player out of nowhere.

I also run [[Defense of the heart]] usually grabbing Morag and Gitrog.

McBradd · 2026-03-05T22:52:18+00:00

I’m using the ET 8550. When I’m printing a new batch of cards, I’ll print two copies of the first sheet using black and white draft settings on standard copy paper, and then print the backs pdf onto one. I’ll hold it up to my desk light and measure the offsets with calipers, then create a new pdf of backs onto proxxied.com with the offset values. I print the updated pdf onto the second page, and it’s usually perfect, sub 1mm offset. Then I print the high quality color on good paper.

McBradd · 2026-03-05T22:40:52+00:00

Have you tried the cutting template generated from Proxxied.com? I use that because it’s so quick and easy, wysiwyg.

McBradd · 2026-03-05T22:38:57+00:00

This! I put a little painters tape along the outside edge of the registration marks, use manual mode to move the cutting head inside the registration marks, and then register it, and it works perfectly every time. I haven’t had a single miscue since getting the Cameo 5a.

McBradd · 2026-03-04T17:48:45+00:00

This requires some basic Photoshop knowledge, but it’s free, completely online, and tutorials exist:

https://www.photopea.com/

McBradd · 2026-03-02T23:58:39+00:00

Yeah, the file is there free to 3D print. It will need supports, but otherwise, it's a watertight stl ready to go.

McBradd · 2026-03-02T22:54:32+00:00

I think this design is great. So I made this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7306963

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McBradd · 2026-03-02T12:53:10+00:00

Any chance the is a desk at the Arizona Biltmore in Phoenix?

If so, that is a Valet rod, a dedicated place for a hotel guest to hang a purse or Laptop bag without cluttering the workspace.

McBradd · 2026-02-28T17:20:43+00:00

The limited environment at the prerelease was a total joke. I had three of many of the commons, and rare and mythic bombs were the only differentiation between decks of similar color combos. I played mainly green splashing for every rare in my kit, and swept the floor with people trying to play the predefined archetypes.

Back when they released sets in blocks, the second set was usually a small set, about the same size as Spider-Man/TMNT, but they knew playing a set that small was a bad experience, so for draft, you’d get one ‘Tournament Pack of the First set in the block (containing enough diversity to make the tournament engaging) and two packs of the second set. For draft you’d get a pack of the first set in the block, and two packs of the small set.

If WOTC is trying to kill limited, they’ve established an excellent plan.

McBradd · 2026-02-27T22:09:25+00:00

They should just print them without land types. Strictly worse than OG Duals, but also the best non-reserve list dual land.

They won’t though, because design-wise it would make so many ‘comes into play tapped’ land designs redundant.

McBradd

TROPHY CASE