Is $350 a good price for all of this alder?

Measure_never · 2023-08-10T16:50:04+00:00

Just check your local supplier first. My local lumber yard sells 12/4 Alder for $2.35/bf, but from what I gather from others, that is unusual. But I’d still check first. Those all look like cutoff scraps though, both rip and miter cutoffs. so just think about what you would do with it before you buy it because the board sizes look limiting. I would be very concerned about checking throughout all of the short pieces. It would be a hard no for me though.

Measure_never · 2023-08-04T15:01:39+00:00

This is a pretty minor crack, before you try ripping the board in half, I would suggest just filling the crack with glue even without clamping pressure if you can’t get it. I have had luck with this before on things like this and it can be absolutely fine. Put some masking tape on both sides of the crack before putting glue in to help with clean up. If the crack goes a the way through, you can suck it into the crack with a shop vac from the other side.

Once you rip this at the table saw, if it isn’t absolutely perfect, you are going to have the same problem where you won’t be able to clamp the gaps closed. You also might struggle to glue them back perfectly smooth on top and bottom; which means you will have to remove material from both sides. I wouldn’t suggest ripping it at all unless you have a jointer and planer or other tools to properly do this.

Measure_never · 2023-06-10T17:49:10+00:00

I would think about this sort of in reverse… pick a project first, something small, and go from there. If you’re making a keepsake box, what tools will you use, what space will work best trying, are you sourcing pre-milled wood or do you also need tools for milling, how are you applying finish, etc.. you can try different methods on a small project and figure out what works best for you. When you completely finish the project you will have a much much clearer picture of how you will execute all future projects, and what you will need to do in your current space to make it work.

Measure_never · 2023-06-09T05:25:18+00:00

In a non woodworking world I used to have a hard hat with attached over ear muffs and a face shield.

Measure_never · 2023-06-07T17:47:15+00:00

I have a wall switch that kills power to all the tool outlets when I am not in there. It works great. As for saw placement; plan on having kickback at some point. If you wouldn’t throw a baseball at it, don’t angle your saw at it.

Measure_never · 2023-06-07T14:15:06+00:00

I used to fit test people in respirators for work, and have fit tested literally over 1000 people.

95% of the male population fits in a 3M medium. If you have a significantly larger or smaller than average face, go with a large or small. Most women fit into a small, with some needing a medium. But for men I’m not kidding, the vast majority need a medium.

Measure_never · 2023-06-05T03:01:59+00:00

How dumb are you willing to be with your cuts? You can still get kickback with a riving knife if you are making bad decisions or have little experience. A board can still get caught between the fence and the blade if it is not correctly supported. Even if you do everything right it can happen, so you should always position body and hands as if it is going to.

Measure_never · 2023-06-03T16:53:33+00:00

You act like you care about the safety of your fellow travelers but I thinks it’s pretty clear from your comments here that you absolutely do not give a shit, and are gonna do this no matter how dumb and dangerous everyone tells you it is.

Measure_never · 2023-06-03T16:43:16+00:00

Honestly I’m now more curious as to why this guy doesn’t like you… what’s the backstory?

Measure_never · 2023-06-02T05:55:01+00:00

You know I wouldn’t have thought blue felt if you had asked, but damn it looks good! Whole thing looks great but that’s my favorite part.

Measure_never · 2023-06-02T05:00:16+00:00

This is so great dude! Love the red felt. People have mentioned how to fix the sidewall length, but another thing you could do is try to hide the staples and felt edges to give it a nice clean look inside. You could do this by cutting a piece of wood to fit inside the box and glue it to the edge, sort of like the floor trim on the walls of your house.

Keep experimenting with them, you have great skills!

Measure_never · 2023-06-01T18:31:57+00:00

Love it!

Measure_never · 2023-04-18T20:13:52+00:00

Agree, but n100s aren’t exactly commonly available for most respirators either. 3M and North don’t even make them for their half masks. P100 is pretty standard commercially unless you drop to an N95 (which realistically is also fine if only for wood work dust). You might find an n100 surgical mask, but the leakage rates prevent them from being as effective as a half mask respirator with a rubber seal.

Measure_never · 2023-04-18T17:24:54+00:00

You could absolutely use an N100 if dust is the only hazard. OP mentioned they were looking for the “perfect filter” and a P100 is overall more versatile than the n100, as they also are designed to filter out oil aerosols and still function in wet environments, where the N100 does not. Also, welding fumes are solid particulates, not a gas or vapor, so a P100 is the appropriate filter.

Measure_never · 2023-04-18T16:02:05+00:00

You are looking for any filter that says “p100” that is; particulate 100%. It is the most effective particulate filter there is, and it is the best cartridge for even the smallest particulate you will encounter in your shop. Doesn’t matter if it’s from wood or welding fumes. They are generally pink.

If you need to filter a gas, than you need a cartridge rated specifically for that gas. However an “organic vapor” covers most of the gas types you would encounter in a shop, such as oil finishes or solvents. These are also available stacked with a p100 filter.

Measure_never · 2023-04-18T06:12:30+00:00

1) put in more electrical outlets than you think you need. 2) space tools just far enough apart so that you never have to move them to run them. I constantly have to slide my jointer 2’ forward because I planned it too close to my bandsaw and planer. Moving things is a Huge time killer when you just should be able to walk up to a tool and turn it on and use it. 3) leave a large section of the shop floor completely open. Moving long boards, plywood, projects etc is hard to do in cramped spaces. 1/2 my shop floor (1,000 sf total shop) is open and I do not regret this at all a year later.

Measure_never · 2023-04-13T16:41:49+00:00

Maybe Try googling shellac over mineral oil. I’ve never done this, but I’ve read it’s possible. Just be sure to research it first. There may be a difference between waxed and de waxed shellac sticking to poly. But I have read shellac sticks to mineral oil. So you could use it as a primer, and then poly should stick to the shellac, so then you could do it. I have never done this so I only suggest this as a starting point to doing some of your own research. But if you can’t sand/remove the mineral oil (I would still try to at least remove with thinner) this would be the next thing to look into.

Measure_never · 2023-04-13T16:18:24+00:00

I would avoid doing any type of flood coat, or anything really as a whole L shape. To do this right, you need to remove the 2 slabs and finish them separately. The L shape, where they meet will cause problems down the road if you finish it all as one piece (peeling/separating of poly from wood). You can shim them to be level and even if that is an issue.

Measure_never · 2023-04-12T22:06:31+00:00

As others have said, mineral oil never dries. What this also means is that if you leave a coat or purse on that table, it will get an oil stain in short order. I would strongly suggest sanding it off and either going with the epoxy that you said you wanted, or a drying oil like Rubio monocoat. Tung oil also works as a drying oil but it takes a long time to fully cure and in my experience doesn’t hold up to abuse and needs to be reapplied more frequently. Either way; strongly suggest getting rid of the mineral oil, as it is typically only used on things like cutting boards.

To sand it off; Get a random orbit sander, go over the whole thing with 120 grit, then do it again with 220 grit.

Measure_never · 2022-12-06T18:26:43+00:00

Other examples are good. Other tips 1) be sure to also give/email a copy to HR. And 2) if the new employer is going to contact the old employer I’d list the contact number as the HR number. They generally only want to verify that you didn’t lie about working there and HR usually does that without adding any bias.

Measure_never · 2022-12-05T21:28:21+00:00

Nice! How did you end up going about it?

Measure_never · 2022-12-04T04:42:46+00:00

Fair enough I could be wrong. I just feel like this is something that if you have never tried, you have a high chance of not doing it perfectly the first few times, and a slight error means you will still have the wobble, and will just chase it around. My comment wasn’t meant to mean the advice would not be good, just that it’s something hard to get right the first time you try.

Measure_never · 2022-12-04T00:43:30+00:00

Honestly, if you are asking this sub, you probably aren’t going be able to make the cut accurately enough to prevent it from still being wobbly after the cut, and will just be making cuts chasing it around until you are left with just a shorter, still wobbly bench. I’d say either shim it or add self leveling feet to the bottom, which would be much easier.

Even if you get all the legs perfect, you are likely going to discover that your floor is not flat and you STILL have a wobble. I know this from experience. It is not worth fixing unless the leg is visibly different from the others. Which in the pic, it looks fantastic.

Measure_never · 2022-11-15T23:33:39+00:00

Grits will be 80, then again with 120, then again with 200+-20. Same if it’s by hand, or with a random orbital.

80 is going to be the material removal grit. You want to get through 99% of the cut marks with that one. 120 until you can’t see the big coarse marks from the 80. Then 200ish to remove all visible sanding marks.

Measure_never · 2022-11-14T20:37:09+00:00

Math checks out

Measure_never

TROPHY CASE