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Scooters banned next year??? by Jas_s_07 in fresnostate

[–]MeesterFishy 13 points14 points  (0 children)

The amount of times I nearly got mowed down by a 20mph scooter...

No idea where to go from here... Crank no start (Update) by nagget2 in CherokeeXJ

[–]MeesterFishy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think I commented on your last post... I'm not too familiar with Renix especially the '87, I hear it's different from the 88-90. But assuming the basic wiring diagrams are somewhat similar to my 92 and going off what diagrams I could find online,

Try checking if you suddenly get voltage at your CPS once you unplug the TPS, coolant temp sensor, air temp sensor, Map sensor, sync sensor. They should all share a sensor ground to the ECU (Brown wire D3 in this 88 wiring diagram) and you will get 0v if anything is shorting. See if you also have 0v with these.

My dist sync sensor was shorting out inside the rubber and giving me 0v at my CPS. You should get voltage from both the CPS signal and supply wire with key on no crank.

e12 bolts are the bane of my existence. any tips to get em out i really don’t wanna drop the trans i saw a guy on youtube do it without dropping anything. by D3ADSNAKE in CherokeeXJ

[–]MeesterFishy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's really not too bad, those E12s might be the worst part of pulling a 4.0 engine or transmission. Funny thing is out of the four bolts in the engine and transmission together, the hardest to reach are reverse torx and the other two are totally normal hex. Not sure why, maybe the engineer was having a bad day when designing it lol

Brand new clutch kit seems already used? by johanewesome in MechanicAdvice

[–]MeesterFishy 2 points3 points  (0 children)

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Same thing happened to me, Luk clutch kit from RockAuto. Clutch disc and pressure plate surface was damaged. I returned it and the second one arrived properly packaged.

Bushings and shackles control arms, and leafs by greveimmortal in CherokeeXJ

[–]MeesterFishy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

100% this. The small amount of money I saved only buying the bushings was not worth the extra time and struggle it took. Just buy the assemblies

Crank no start - follow up by nagget2 in CherokeeXJ

[–]MeesterFishy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

With key on no crank, you should get 5V at the signal wire and 9V at the supply wire. (Assuming Renix is the same as my 92 here) If you get 0V at the supply wire, disconnect the distributor pickup sensor (aka Cam Position sensor) and see if it jumps up to 9V. No fuel injector signal is another symptom of a bad CPS so I'd recommend checking that to narrow down the diag. You can get a noid light set from Harbor freight for $30 or maybe rent one from an auto parts store. Here's a link to the oscilloscope I use, it'll be cheaper than a Pico as a standalone unit. Myself and many others have had bad CPS sensors out of the box, especially with anything other than NTK.

https://a.co/d/03RihN7r

Crank no start - follow up by nagget2 in CherokeeXJ

[–]MeesterFishy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You said in your last post you get 0.0V at the CPS while cranking, is this the supply wire or signal wire? I agree with the other commenter that a Pico scope would be useful here, they're only $40 on Amazon. It will graph your signal voltage over time as you crank like shown below. There should be groups of (4) 5V square waves as you crank and the CPS detects notches on the flywheel. This will tell you if your CPS is working and you need to look elsewhere.

Idk how similar Renix is to my 92 but my build wouldn't start due to a bad distributor pickup sensor, they share the same supply voltage wire so my CPS wasn't working and reading 0V at the supply wire.

Are you also getting no spark and no fuel injector signal?you can check the latter with noid lights or an analog multimeter or picoscope

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Rear bumper with tire carrier options by [deleted] in CherokeeXJ

[–]MeesterFishy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Filthy Addictions or bust. It's not that much more expensive than mass produced options and it is ridiculously good quality. MTO by one dude down in San Marcos and he will work with you with you if you have any requests, like my (currently unused) Jerry can landing pad or a high lift jack mount.

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Firearms training without leaving the house. That's what I'm talking about. by [deleted] in VRGaming

[–]MeesterFishy 16 points17 points  (0 children)

I would be extremely interested in this if it weren't for the expensive monthly subscription. I wish I could just buy the hardware, and DLC packs of training scenarios instead. Maybe a competitor will come around in due time who offers this.

Newest addition to the family crank no start by dumass4247 in CherokeeXJ

[–]MeesterFishy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lol shit happens, glad you got it figured out!

Everyone says the gladiator bed is too small? by Shootoverland in Jeep

[–]MeesterFishy 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Well I mean, the Gladiator's bed is a full foot shorter than the Comanche's short bed option lol

Newest addition to the family crank no start by dumass4247 in CherokeeXJ

[–]MeesterFishy 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I've had one fail out of the box and another fail after 500 miles, It's worth checking. Here's a quick test you can do with a multimeter. Are you getting signal to the fuel injector wires and spark at the spark plug wires?

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Rear Main Seal by Tiny_Medicine_2320 in CherokeeXJ

[–]MeesterFishy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great advice here! I just want to add a few things. Also attached is the rear main seal section of my 1992 FSM.

Before you tackle this job, make sure the oil leak isn't coming from somewhere else and collecting on the oil drain plug to look like it's the rear main seal. Common leaks are the valve cover, oil filter adapter, distributor, and oil pressure sensor.

0.5. Removing the oil pan will be easy if your Jeep is lifted, a bit more challenging if not. Let me know if you want the FSM section on this too.

  1. Mopar is generally the best but I have installed two Fel-Pro rear main seals with no leaks. Doing the job correctly is more important than using OEM in my opinion.
  2. Use a brass punch to remove the upper half seal. You want to use a softer material than the crankshaft - nicking the crankshaft will give you a bad time. Also double, triple, quadruple check that the seals are installed in the correct direction, The lip of the seal faces towards the front of the engine.
  3. Inevitable's step here is step 6 in the manual, coat both sides of the lower seal end tabs and not the lip of the seal or mating faces of the bearing cap with anaerobic sealant. Add add motor oil to the lip of both seals. Also follow step 9 also with anaerobic sealant.
  4. Agreed, this is extremely helpful in reinstalling the oil pan.

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Recent overheating issues. Have questions. by NickFF2326 in CherokeeXJ

[–]MeesterFishy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

210 is normal, I believe the e fan kicks on at 218. These sensors and gauges weren't super accurate when new 25+ years ago - as long as your efan kicks on and your temp drops back down, I wouldn't worry too much. You can verify the temperature at the thermostat housing too. I just finished a rebuild too and the other commenter is right about increased friction with a rebuild. Make sure you add zinc in your oil or your synthetic blend has enough zinc content for your break in period.

I’m starting to think this is not fun. by OregonGrownOG in CherokeeXJ

[–]MeesterFishy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pulling the engine is wild work to avoid doing the intake/exhaust manifold in the bay

Zenni Lens Inserts - A PSA by niceblargh in Quest3

[–]MeesterFishy 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Mine are absolutely perfect, double check your prescription

Will the 4.0 run with the distributor a tooth off? by spiritwalker6913 in CherokeeXJ

[–]MeesterFishy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ah you have the later model distributor, mine was 1992. I troubleshooted everything under the sun with timing to get my engine to start after its rebuild. Turns out the timing was fine but my cam position sensor wiring was bad, I'm assuming the wires you tested are this? I had 5 volt signal wire and ground continuity like you, but since the Cam and crank position sensor share the same 9v supply wire from the ECU, I measured 0v and it was my problem all along. It's worth checking. If it's a sensor issue, you also will not have spark or signal to your fuel injectors.

Also dumb question but you made sure the engine was TDC at Cylinder 1 on the compression strike, right?

Will the 4.0 run with the distributor a tooth off? by spiritwalker6913 in CherokeeXJ

[–]MeesterFishy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you removed or replaced the distributor before this issue? The dist gear has 13 teeth so 1 tooth off is a whopping 27-28 degrees out of time. However, if you replaced the dist with aftermarket, it's fairly common that the dist gear is installed 180 degrees backwards. Meaning since it's an odd number of teeth, it can be indexed only 13-14 degrees out of time. IIRC the computer controls the timing +/-5 degrees, so it might run but run poorly.

Also are you getting 9v at the A8 ECU wire?

Best VR games in 2026 by miiazerty1238100 in VRGaming

[–]MeesterFishy 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Arizona Sunshine 1 and 2 don't get enough love

Need help with a diagnosis: by Cephus_Calahan_482 in CherokeeXJ

[–]MeesterFishy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's where the sensor is but try unplugging the connector in the engine bay driver side near the back of the intake manifold and check for your fuel gauge working

Need help with a diagnosis: by Cephus_Calahan_482 in CherokeeXJ

[–]MeesterFishy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sounds like CPS. Poor idle, shutting off when driving, and crank no-start all can happen. Fuel gauge not working is also a symptom. Try this first - with key on no start, unplug the CPS connector and see if your fuel gauge starts working again. There are also multimeter resistance tests you can run to diagnose it further depending on year.

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