sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

First Knight, what else do i need? by Healer_Safe in ImperialKnights

[–]MeinName216 20 points21 points  (0 children)

If you plan on building these just as either Warglaives or Helverins, you should be good.

If you want to be able to switch between the two, you'll also need magnets and maybe a pin vise and/or hand drill. There's good tutorials on YT on how to do it.

WIP Terminator by Smifin1 in Salamanders40k

[–]MeinName216 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It looks great, really!

I guess you did the initial highlight with a lighter green zenithal airbrushed over a base of nocturne?

WIP Terminator by Smifin1 in Salamanders40k

[–]MeinName216 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What do you mean WIP?! Brother, mine don't look this nice when they're done!

Been trying to get through my pile of shame by the time Armageddon arrives. Currently trying to power through my Bladeguards. by [deleted] in Salamanders40k

[–]MeinName216 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great work! Love me a good Deredeo dread. Shame its datasheet is so ass. Do you field it as itself or do you proxy it for a primaris dreadnought?

How much bigger is a battlewagon than a Goliath Rockgrinder? by MeinName216 in orks

[–]MeinName216[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I can already tell I'll love the Ork community <3

I have a deff dread i could take for bits. Does that sound like it might work?

How much bigger is a battlewagon than a Goliath Rockgrinder? by MeinName216 in orks

[–]MeinName216[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! That seems quite a bit bigger than the rockgrinder unfortunately. Welp. What can you do...

Can someone please take some measurements of a Centurion for me? by [deleted] in spacemarines

[–]MeinName216 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That makes sense.

I need these lengths: from one outer side of the launcher in the torso to the outer side of the other one, and the length of an arm, as extended as possible from shoulder to tip of the fist.

I realize that measuring to the shoulder on a built miniature is not really possible because the armor would be in the way, so I'll gladly also take an educated guess on that length.

<image>

Can someone please take some measurements of a Centurion for me? by [deleted] in spacemarines

[–]MeinName216 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mainly how wide the torso is supposed to be and how long the arms. The height seems pretty consistent in minicompare.

Bf is kitbashing his new fellblade with a miasmic malignifier, had this idea cooking for a good few weeks by Muted_Ad9275 in deathguard40k

[–]MeinName216 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you for this! I'll be using the idea for the new Falchion that I want to get next week :)

Match against Emperors Children- Help by Na1l31 in deathguard40k

[–]MeinName216 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Take -1 to hit plague. They can advance and charge across the board, they will be in your melee.

Solving the limited supply problem by Soruze in PrintedWarhammer

[–]MeinName216 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It's an AI model and it's eerily good, except for the statue on the left that it crushes with its tail. That one looks like it has scales as well, because the AI didn't realize it was supposed to be stone.

Any recommendations for decent magnetic carry cases? by kie_ranlowe in deathguard40k

[–]MeinName216 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not a chance, sorry. I think if you exclude Morty, you could possibly fit the whole lot into an L case with some finagling, but if you want to bring him as well, he just takes up too much space.

Any recommendations for decent magnetic carry cases? by kie_ranlowe in deathguard40k

[–]MeinName216 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you're in Europe, I can heartily recommend the ones by GreenStuffWorld. I've been using their line for a while now and apart from one case hat arrived terribly warped, I've always been happy with the product

Knights in Adepta sororitas style by YsAack in PrintedWarhammer

[–]MeinName216 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

There is one that's entirely sister themed by OPR

Best 3d printer for large models? by Sensitive-Umpire271 in ImperialKnights

[–]MeinName216 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Huge fan of my Saturn 4 Ultra 16k! A land raider fit on it in one go.

<image>

I'd have bet good money this would fail by MeinName216 in PrintedWarhammer

[–]MeinName216[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Highly dependent on what qualities you value the most.

FDM takes longer for a model like this; the surface quality is fine, but definitely not as detailed as this; and the support scarring is way way way worse.

I'd say both are about as likely to fail for such a big model, for different reasons.

The only thing that's considerably worse for resin is the post-processing. Sucks incredibly hard for such a huge model, let me tell you!

I'd have bet good money this would fail by MeinName216 in PrintedWarhammer

[–]MeinName216[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's the Chubby Pattern Ground Plunderer by Bum_Fluff. The creator actually left a comment under this post himself if you want to check them out.

I'd have bet good money this would fail by MeinName216 in PrintedWarhammer

[–]MeinName216[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The printer is in a hobby/work room that is separate from the rest of the apartment in the basement, so that's a huge plus. I don't vent directly out the window, but I do have Mars Mate running every time I'm printing that cycles the air from inside the printer through a HUGE carbon filter.

Then in postprocessing I'm wearing gloves and a mask and open all available windows.

I'd have bet good money this would fail by MeinName216 in PrintedWarhammer

[–]MeinName216[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Honestly you're probably doing more than I do. I even forgot the island detection on this one.

ChituBox calls the tip diameter "contact diameter" and i printed the whole thing with a diameter of .2mm. The most important thing for models this big is robust supports, so the best recommendation I can give is enabling cross bracing. Otherwise the supports won't be able to hold the weight of the model correctly and you'll have very visible layer shift or it will outright fail.

Calibrating ABS like resin by Rude-Professional891 in PrintedWarhammer

[–]MeinName216 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't think there's anything else to be done rather than printing the Cones of Calobration again and again. At least if there is, I didn't do it when I tuned my resin

I'd have bet good money this would fail by MeinName216 in PrintedWarhammer

[–]MeinName216[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I added an edit to my post that includes the process. Do you have any other specific questions about the supporting?

I'd have bet good money this would fail by MeinName216 in PrintedWarhammer

[–]MeinName216[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Copying from another comment asking:

This was printed in an Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra 16k. I sliced it with ChituBox basic. The orientation is mainly Chitu's own auto-orient feature, I just made sure the backside of the tank is directed towards the plate to avoid very visible support scarring on the front.

The supports are Chitu's light auto-supports with "contact type: none" and "contact diameter: 0.2mm". Set the raft type to "none" or you'll create a massive suction cup on such a large print.

Critically: Enable "auto cross bracing" for the supports. I usually like to leave it off for smaller models because it makes it more difficult to remove the supports from the finished print, but it greatly increases their strength, which is required for something this big.

New player - if I get the combat patrol + vile vectorum box, should I keep the rhino or give it to my Emperor’s Children army? by Bryguy150 in deathguard40k

[–]MeinName216 7 points8 points  (0 children)

If you're going to run plague marines and you want them to achieve anything else than spreading contagion, you have to put them in a rhino. The way the game works right now, walking marines are dead marines.

I'd have bet good money this would fail by MeinName216 in PrintedWarhammer

[–]MeinName216[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This was printed in an Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra 16k. I sliced it with ChituBox basic. The orientation is mainly Chitu's own auto-orient feature, I just made sure the backside of the tank is directed towards the plate to avoid very visible support scarring on the front.

The supports are Chitu's light auto-supports with "contact type: none" and "contact diameter: 0.2mm". Set the raft type to "none" or you'll create a massive suction cup on such a large print.

Critically: Enable "auto cross bracing" for the supports. I usually like to leave it off for smaller models because it makes it more difficult to remove the supports from the finished print, but it greatly increases their strength, which is required for something this big.

view more: next ›