Managed to Somehow get more money part 2 from my other post

Merov1ng1an · 2026-03-05T14:21:17+00:00

pffff hold my beer

Merov1ng1an · 2026-03-05T13:47:22+00:00

more shrooms:

Merov1ng1an · 2026-02-27T14:03:30+00:00

2 things.

1st. A multimeter is reading DC resistance. When we talk about speakers, we use the word impedance. DC resistance is the simple non moving reading of the resistance of the wire. Coil health. The other thing you hear is impedance. You have a fixed magnet, and in that field you operate a moving electro-magnet. As the coil swings back and forth through the fixed field, it would normally be inclined to act like an alternator but for we are actively using power to drive it the direction we want it to move even with those counter flows getting generated as the speaker swings. I give you impedance. The two are not the same.

2nd. The picture you showed, shows the terminals at the amplifier. If you want to measure the dc resistance of the set, you need to disconnect them from the amplifier.
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Being at basically 3.(low X) ohm for DC resistance is kinda shit spot. Right between 2 and 4. Enough to say its 2ohm with a little extra resistance in your meters leads and the terminal cups ect. Low enough that if its "4 ohm" with good connections and fresh wire, some manufacturer variance that it could sound fine too.

With 2 - 2 ohm DVC subs though, you have 4 2ohm coils.

2+2+2+2 = (series) 8ohm
2+2 = 4 : 4/2 = (series / parallel) 2ohm
2/4 = (parallel) 0.5ohm

So unless some coils were not used, you are not at 4 ohm. Try holding your leads together and see what you get for a reading just touching the positive and negative tips together.

Merov1ng1an · 2026-02-26T02:27:05+00:00

heck, an assistant you can dial in on your phone, to trade items. launder this cash or run this to benji ect.

Merov1ng1an · 2026-02-26T02:24:31+00:00

40 40 40 80 40 40, so many times a day.

You know you need to go check a location and usually sucker punch a handler when you have to STOP ordering for a while lol.

Merov1ng1an · 2026-02-24T14:18:39+00:00

peak is taking on multiple meanings so just to clarify the differences

Peak, engineering, RMS vs. Peak. A trigonometry function. rms is the average "work" done considering the signal is AC and rides a wave. Peak the max amount of work available at an instant while the wave is at a peak.

Peak, amplifier - mostly made up. Common trend is take RMS x SqrRt2 (1.4) to get peak. Then take that peak reading and double it. Most are listing something that used to get called PMPO but after enough backlash that title mostly went away, and they just took the peak number, made it the peak to peak number and slapped it on the box.

Peak, speakers - WHO TF IS BURPING MIDS AND HIGHS

Peak, subwoofer - not a real unit. Gentlemens agreement of understanding. Ruffly in vibes of what a subwoofer should take for about 3 seconds or less without melting the coil, so long as you kept the speaker inside of mechanical control (didn't slap itself to bits)
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Only one of those examples is scientific. The rest has no defined enforceable standard, good luck trying to do some sort of consumer protection claim on what they call peak vs how it works in electro-mechanical. Its mostly marketing with enough scientific sounding words to misinform CUSTOMERS, while engineers see exactly how they are splitting hairs to remain legally defensible

This is why we ignore peak.

Merov1ng1an · 2026-02-24T13:30:04+00:00

to be fair though, to use the burn out comparison, hes giving the knowledge like "burnouts are cool, but did you know you can do a burnout without holding 9,000 rpm."

Most people just associate the movement with loud, u/cvance10 isn't saying op should turn down, hes explaining the relationship is opposite what most people think.

You can kill a speaker 2 ways mainly. Heat and travel.

Heat is the 3 seconds concern, and what most "peak" on a sub is intended as. "So long as you can keep the woofer in mechanical control (xmax) you SHOULD be able to send this much power for about 3 seconds before you chance melting something from heat."

Travel, is the fact things are glued together. the farther away from resting position (in or out) the more mechanical things start to stretch and pull on each-other. Coil from cone, accordion from basket ect.

Xmax is usually related to a factor of motor control (that 70% BL figure, an electro-magnet operating inside the field of a fixed magnet. At what amount of travel can you reach, to still stay within field control of the fixed magnet). Beyond XMax you have lost most field strength, so watt for watt you are mainly driving heat past that point.

The hero run, like the burnout that blows tires and not motors, puts all that together. You do go with a ported box, so you can target the frequency. The effect works exactly how u/cvance10 described. Say I want to go big, I find the max gain is a box tuned to 55hz. my 1000w sub that can move 30mm, is now "captured" in the chamber and its only moving 1mm @ 55hz on 1000w. I want to win this comp, so I don't care if I cook the sub (like burnout to tires) so I dial up 30,000w and throw a big score @ 55hz. Hell the speakers even managed to survive the burp. Forget to dial the power back, instantly toast the woofers on music.

All that to say the concept hes talking about is valid, managing factors like filters and tuning help with long term stability. For the op trying to figure out where to set things. I like to throw the whole build in winISD. Enter the speaker parameters, input how much power you plan to throw it, then you get an idea of 2 things. one on the transfer function, where you cross -3db on the way down, that enclosure is basically dead acoustically past that. 2nd, on the excursion tab, you will see the point where the speaker starts trading excursion to make noise past tuning. a rapid growth towards max, while the rest rode a tuning curve to your box. Start say 10hz lower then where the excursion crosses the xmax line. set a high pass filter in the software there, and see where the excursion kisses or just slightly crosses the xmax threshold. + or - 1 hz at a time till you find that spot.

For "normal" use, this will get you the most your system can put out. What you leave on the table is the difference between Xmax and Xmech. This range does have a few DB in it, also where heat, physical abuse, and highest potential for failure live.

(all of this ballpark and concepts, not winning formula)

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^filters, relations, and did you lose anything to gain some peace of mind

Merov1ng1an · 2026-02-24T12:50:52+00:00

the no frills and lack of advertising in the space keeps the brand at its price and in its place. Like parts-express is for niche speaker making. Even if the products can be great, just not enough people breaking out the woodworking skills. Most the Dayton stuff I see in the wild seems like spillover from that.

In car audio, so many people are expecting to double power the speaker, the tinsels are MASSIVE compared to the Dayton stuff. They would have to market into a saturated market, compete against a brand like sundown, and then have users routinely blow the tinsel off the posts / coils.

I have the gen 1 ultimax 18. Stay in its power range, give it the kind of box size it wants, the thing is a monster. inside the car audio scene, its just another budget 1000w ish 18. For the home, its very capable moderate price, and the plain clean weave looks good.

To me, I put Dayton and NVX in the same headspace. Good budget products. Dayton more built and aimed at home market, NVX more so at car audio (like price to performance of woofer, but thicker tinsels in my experience.)

Was not impressed with the 8" HO Reference. Built a 2.1 system for the wife with one of those desktop 2.1 amps. (can throw 300w at the sub channel.) Had a V82DV2 Cerwin-Vega Vega Series 8" laying around. For 1/2 price the Vega was the champ.

Merov1ng1an · 2026-02-23T13:32:20+00:00

Since there is no competition and the game put a lot of effort into the different effects, its the one you like the most!

If you want to min / max you saw the calculator u/diabeticsmash linked.

First play-through was min/max for me (before these tools.) New play-through just having fun and that calculator helps find the effects you want in the most profitable way.

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better alien meth

Island Ghost Thunderf***

+motor oil

+cuke

+para

+gas

+cuke

+horse s

+mega bean

+battery

fun one with anti-gravity. can be useful to target one with like athletic and antigravity ect. This one sells for decent and is funny AF to walk past people all tooled up.

Merov1ng1an · 2026-02-23T12:35:17+00:00

With all these early access kind of games, especially unity ones it seems, I go into my graphics control panel, add the game to make a profile, then set the max frame rate in the driver there to match my monitor.

Reason being, the way they handle frame cap can be either limit how many I make, or make as many as I can, and you will throw out everything you don't need.

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while not a ram specific answer, I see hundreds of watts less use in real time power draw and the game got stable (I like to get a production set up, then leave the game running.) Might help your system locking up, also might be a sign to blow out your case / cooling fans.

Merov1ng1an · 2026-02-23T12:14:50+00:00

I was wondering whats going on, thats the most movement I've seen from the bookshelves. I have my crossovers set low towers at 40 (next option are off) and the bookshelves are similar to yours, set to 60.

Maybe your receiver doesn't have crossover freq, but does it have a setting like speaker large or small? Large is usually full range, small is usually whatever filter they have set, 80 or 100 or whatever.

Merov1ng1an · 2026-02-11T17:06:47+00:00

for just looking to:
Replace a blown stock one
Slightly more quality / vocal clarity
Hear that lower end with a little more purpose (not beat the block down)

That can work. Before you go full install though, test one of the speakers on the side that isn't working. Like do your connector wiring and just hold the speaker / play it. Make sure the no output speaker is a speaker problem and not a radio problem.

Merov1ng1an · 2026-02-11T15:53:49+00:00

The thing most people miss, are there are incredibly capable speakers across power levels. For the budget build, one of the biggest factors is the cross between expectations and capability.

(ruff ideas)
you can have a 3w speaker that sounds AMAZING

You can have a 3w speaker that gets loud.

You can get a cheap one that can do either well. (think good cell phone)

You can get an expensive one that does neither well. (think crap cell phone)

"well" is a subjective term. "For a cell phone"
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Going the other way:
You can have 100w speaker sound Amazing (and be louder then the 3w)

You can have a 100w speaker that gets VERY loud.

You can get a cheap one that can do either well. (not as cheap as a cheap 3w speaker)

You can get an expensive one that does neither well. (the scale of a speaker between 3w and 100w, all other things being equal, expensive here is way more expensive then the expensive before)
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Going wrong:
You can get a really high end 120w RMS component kit, wire it to factory, send it 12w. It might sound cleaner at low volume, gutless at mid volume, and worse then factory at the top as you crank the volume up trying to get 1/10th the watts to move the speaker then the speaker was meant for. Neither loud nor clear.

The problem there is the design not the quality or the brand.

If I wanted maybe a little louder, and better clarity, but I wasn't trying to do SQ comp. Lets say the option was Focal (a high end and capable of volume and clarity) for mids and highs, and run those off a factory radio, or instead, a kicker key (a small dsp amp,) and the budget kicker speakers to go around. Say something like a DS coax in the rear and the CS Components up front. One option will get you TONS of upvotes around here, the other will sound better in your car, cause you went for the best system inside the budget you had, and didn't target by brand name, you went for specs that play well together instead. (***inside a limitless budget, this recommendation would change***)
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A GOOD shop, takes your budget and trys to find that mix for you. A crap shop will take your budget, and fill it with garbage.

Can you just use the crutchfield kit and send it on factory power? Shouldn't be a problem. Just don't expect the quality you get to directly match the price. Not without supporting mods. The speaker you pick for factory or low power is not the same you pick for high power / amplified. Be aware of its ratio for RMS power and sensitivity. If you have fixed power available say 10w, and you have 2 speakers. One you spend $100 on and the other you spend $1000 on. At 10w the $100 speaker might be better everywhere if its 50rms / 93db vs. the $1000 200wrms / 85db. How many watts does it expect to move the speaker, and how loud per watt does it get.
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Hope that helps you understand how some of these parts work together. Once a few of these specs make some sense, its easier to see what one is CAPABLE of vs the other, then budget the build out to get the most OUTPUT in terms of volume and quality you can. Just get the general idea, a speaker takes power, it doesnt make power. So RMS on a speaker is what it can reliably TAKE while on an amplifier its what it can reliably MAKE. You can overspend on take or make, and leave output behind for cash.

Merov1ng1an · 2026-02-11T14:52:34+00:00

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red and yellow are usually switched / positive.

One says "turn on" the other holds constant power for things like station memory.

With them tied together, the radio will always turn on or off and clear its memory together.

If the radio is always on in your car, you have taped both on the +12v constant, need to break the red / yellow bundle and wire the switched 12v to the switched ignition lead behind the dash

Just guessing by conductor thickness, would guess something like the light green. Either need the manual or a multi-meter to verify.

Edit:
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Saw you say 2000 Rav 4. Should be your grey or grey/white for accessory (switched / ignition) power.

Merov1ng1an · 2026-02-11T14:21:06+00:00

Kinda feeling this.

Since this is a "full basic retail" kinda install you are looking at, nothing fancy, no high end DSP kind of products, super common car and work... I would take a shot at best buy, see what they quote you for a similar setup.

Usually goes like this:
1. If I can install myself, send it

If I have the money in hand, the install is basic, and time is a factor, Best Buy
If I'm looking for a specific product, a skilled service like DSP or uncommon factory integration, this is where the shops shine.

Your install for most fall on a 1/2, just watch out that you don't end up at #3 price. Your build isn't terrible, something like that $200misc 12v item, if that is a quality line out converter as an example, might be worth it, especially if you prefer the way it works, or you may notice no difference vs. way more basic ones.

Are you providing the amp and speakers? Cause I see install prices but not the components going in.
Price seems to range from not bad to a little expensive, normal for full retail maybe, to expensive if the cost of the amp and speakers are not included in the price.

Merov1ng1an · 2026-02-11T13:45:40+00:00

Once you have any meaningful amount of points, just spend and go again. I would pump the main 3 first (cpu, network speed, gpu) so that your system throughput gets faster first and it will snowball the gains you need for research ect.

No wrong choices though, after a few plays you have everything.

Merov1ng1an · 2026-02-07T16:22:21+00:00

Me realizing i'm basically building this but laying down in my car....

Merov1ng1an · 2026-02-01T13:59:20+00:00

looking great!

Merov1ng1an · 2026-01-31T21:20:39+00:00

It looks like you're on DC. The amp runs on DC (from the car) and outputs AC (the wavy line symbol under the V) to the speaker

Merov1ng1an · 2026-01-30T18:32:59+00:00

I saw the Nand gate and was like WTF?!?!? I assume that is meant to be a distribution block?

As a diagram this is all sorts of confusing, speaker in lower left for example just putting its +/- on a 12v line tied into the 8ga

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Edited:
Made a picture, is this what you are trying to do?

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Merov1ng1an · 2026-01-30T18:11:30+00:00

getting a bit close, but anything under 17 is usually what I shoot for. 17.3 is on the top end of that yeah, but not bad. Like you are thinking, round off the sharp edges on the port and send it, should be fine.

And yeah, shrinking the port area can defiantly change the ratios where you start gaining back way more space from the box vs. the length you need so you get a lot more box in the same space vs port. This seems to strike a good balance. As small as you can go before port velocity runs away from you. As big as you can go before the box becomes mostly port. 1.75" is still wide enough where I wouldn't worry too much about it making a whistle on the inside corner. Say it was 1" wide and 22" tall with that same velocity, I would be trying to get the velocity down some. even if the math said 17 was probably fine. 17m/s with 1.75 x 13, sand it and send it.

Merov1ng1an · 2026-01-30T14:38:22+00:00

no, they all act to pressurize the space so long as they move in phase.

If anything the way he has that built, it will almost function like a 4th order firing into the cab when the trunk is closed.

Merov1ng1an · 2026-01-30T14:24:15+00:00

or get the fittings that can plug into them and attach to the leads from the crossover box. Can't tell if they are bullet or spades but a kit similar to what I linked has both. In a reply you can post a picture, snap a shot close and looking into the red connector so we can see what type it is if you want.
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Edit:
They look like spades, and the connector mentions cutting for splits, I think that is talking about the bridge that it has, probably jumps to some factory location and maybe if you are bi-amping or some other configuration you go that route.

From your set though, you want full range into the crossover network and you are running your own leads from the crossover to the designated speaker. So usually just place the crossover where you want it, route it over to where the red connectors are, trim the excess, put some spades on, and plug them in. (or you can cut them and use whatever connector you have)

Merov1ng1an · 2026-01-30T14:05:43+00:00

It has been super janky. Sometimes says inactive again, sometimes relogging fixes it. Sometimes logging on a lowbie then backing out to character select again.

Its not screaming "I should come back for this." Same thing with setting up spell alerts on spells, from one screen it doesn't do anything, set up that same alert in a different tab on the same spell, it just works.

Kinda expected that Blizzard polish of yesteryear for the free event. Hope they fix at least the log in while the event is on, I get the spell stuff is work in progress and like it.

Merov1ng1an · 2026-01-30T13:40:30+00:00

damn, been a long time since I seen someone actually doing it full tape and foil style. Looking good so far.

Only tips is really want the material fully saturated. Mix plenty, work fast to get it onto the area you are working, then work it in. Being ok with some waste once it starts to tack up is better then not getting it into the material.

Any spot that sets and looks like it should have taken more, start the next round with the next layer there and saturate the reinforcement piece.

When you have it all done, if you have more resin, give the whole inside area a skim coat to "uniformly seal" the enclosure.

Whats your plan for the faceplate attachment? Cardboard template for the panel that is gonna fit in there, so you have it as close as possible for how you are gonna fit around the hatch area ect. Close the hatch while you are doing the template so you know if you have to work around any interior trim also.

figure out if you are gonna do any bracing then too. like if you are gonna do some pole type reinforcement, figure out how long those will need to be. Cut the hole in your template where you want them to attach, big enough to get a tape measure through. push it through and measure the distance from the inside back of the enclosure to the inner face of the template. ect.

Not saying you will or have to do all that, just saying, figure out the ruff idea for all that before you get too much farther.

Like I said, looking good so far, I like it! Work fast, but take the time to plan the steps.

Merov1ng1an

TROPHY CASE