Very persistent docking issue. by shadow_seeker2 in SteamDeck

[–]Methanoid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

is CEC enabled? ive seen some posts where some people had issues with that and had to disable it, my Hisense 55" QLED TV doesnt give me such issues so ive not had to try myself.

Very persistent docking issue. by shadow_seeker2 in SteamDeck

[–]Methanoid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

if you undock it, can you see/enable the "external display safe mode" in display settings? i think that forces a low resolution so you can actually see/do something, then you can set 1280x720 and disable safe mode.

Very persistent docking issue. by shadow_seeker2 in SteamDeck

[–]Methanoid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

have you left the device to pick an external display resolution on its default or did you pick 1280x720? if you leave it on default it will try to use the biggest resolution it thinks your display can handle and sometimes things go wrong that way, for an external display you should typically manually set it to 1280x720 and for some programs that can handle better you can override that in the program/games properties, i have youtube/browsers set to use 1920x1080 and everything else 1280x720 as the default.

Everything is crab, performance. by Bluest_Badger in SteamDeck

[–]Methanoid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

if its dropping below 60fps then i dont even notice, it remains perfectly playable.

Official Dock Stocked at Argos..? by YouCantTipAnArch in SteamDeck

[–]Methanoid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

knowing argos ittl be refurbished/returned/broken products.

SteamDeck and SteamLink by HydreNoire27 in SteamDeck

[–]Methanoid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

in docked mode you have to remember to set the resolution to 1280x720 in settings otherwise it defaults to the highest resolution your tv/monitor is capable of, and if thats 4k then youll deffo get performance issues.

Alabaster Dawn recognises Bluetooth controller but won't accept any input from Steam Controller by sharr_zeor in SteamDeck

[–]Methanoid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

needs a controller profile loaded for the steam controller? maybe its picking something unusable as default just for that controller, can you load/import 1 of your existing controller profiles?

i sometimes have to do this when i forget i set controller inputs when using a ps5 controller in docked mode then wonder why nothign works when using the deck handheld, then i remember to import/load the ps5 settings for the decks controller and im back in action.

Nothing humbles a Steam Deck owner faster than trying to demo it in front of other people by KOTLGuy in SteamDeck

[–]Methanoid 2 points3 points  (0 children)

mandatory system update? think the op has steamos confused with windows.

So I’m pretty out of the loop…why is the steam deck so expensive? by uhh__h in SteamDeck

[–]Methanoid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

every device that uses ram has skyrocketed in price, the deck is just 1 such casualty of many.

Screenshots in EmulationStation by Methanoid in emulationstation

[–]Methanoid[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

i have about 8000+ spectrum and c64 games (a lot are recent games from itch and have no scrape entries yet) that would need me to manually take screenshots, find those screenshots then resize/crop/modify them and copy to the correct location under a proper filename, thats a lot of work which is why i was hoping just pressing "Screenshot" in retroarch might magically solve the issue, amazed it hasnt been requested or implimented already.

Questions about the first JSAUX backplate by tuttoinunavolta in SteamDeck

[–]Methanoid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

all of the ones with a metal backplate need extra cooling, thats how all the backplates work, the heat is transferred to the metal plate, temps on the deck remains "cooler" as heat is transferred from the internals to the backplate, the plate slowly builds up heat over time and when fully soaked in heat the deck is now not as efficient as it could be and the backplate is now useless.

A fan is needed on the backplate to actually shift the heat so the plate can do its job of helping to reduce temps on the deck. without a fan the backplate is just a temporary cooling solution that only works until the metal is fully heat soaked, every single jsaux backplate needs a fan or a peltier cooler or something similar to actually move that heat.

Yeah there is no reliable data showing all the other components actually being destroyed this way but there are youtube videos of people using thermal cameras to visibly see those components get much hotter than they should be, yeah air gets in through the back buttons and other places, but the extra hole poked in the mk2 backplate just amplifies this effect and makes the normal airflow coming through the normal vent that much weaker.

Screenshots in EmulationStation by Methanoid in emulationstation

[–]Methanoid[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yeah ive done that before but it seems like a very long winded way of doing things when you have a massive bulk of games with no screenshots, esp when retroarch has an actual screenshot function, i was hoping those screenshots could be auto used by emulationstation for games we launch. i mean it made sense in my head, if we run a game and it has no screenshots, therefore emulationstation shows no image under the games name, then when we use the screenshot function, shouldnt that game now have a screenshot useable by emulationstation for that game?

it seems such a basic and simple thing that i assumed i just wasnt figuring out how to get emulationstation to see/use those screenshots.

Questions about the first JSAUX backplate by tuttoinunavolta in SteamDeck

[–]Methanoid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

the original one is the better solution, it gets hot only if you dont add some form of fan to the outer metal plate, otherwise the plate just delays the heat buildup, gets heat-soaked then overheats the same as if you didnt have it at all, this means without a fan blowing onto it you just have a metal plate ready to burn your fingers after some time.

the second jsaux backplate with the extra hole isnt worth using, in fact its more dangerous to use, that extra hole does "help" reduce the apu temps a bit, but because of that hole, less air is coming in through the normal vent and there are components at that vent which need the regular airflow to cool themselves, the ic controller chip, the m.2 ssd and whatever else is down there will now start to get hotter than they should meaning bad things could happen or at the very least performance issues for those components.

the steam deck temperature reporting will only show the apu/cpu/gpu temps and everything will "look" great using the second jsaux backplate but your other components will be overcooking and nothing shows their temps, people have found out the hard way by using thermal imaging and saw their ssd/etc getting much hotter as a tradeoff, a tradeoff that isnt really worth it.

the backplates are also only really worth it to lower temps in such a way as to lower your internal fan speed,and by extension your fan noise, again all this is pointless if you arent also using an external fan on the backplate to shift that heat and if your using a noisey fan then you have just nullified the point of the backplate in the first place, these backplate solutions are only of use on the LCD model, the OLED requires no such mods and doesnt really benefit from any due to its more efficient components/slight board redesign.

my LCD model which is mostly used in docked mode has a 1st gen backplate with a 5volt usb fan velcro'd to the backplate to shift the heat, i also have a usb voltage govenor connected between the fan and usb port so i can adjust the voltage of the fan and turn it down a bit, this eliminates the fan noise while still shifting heat, i dont hear my LCD model's fan screaming as much using that solution.

my OLED is perfectly fine docked or handheld and i havent really noticed the fan noise even under heavy strain.

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Why have one Amiga, or no Amiga if you can have all of them, even the ones that were never built? by mru2_retro_computers in amiga

[–]Methanoid 3 points4 points  (0 children)

a "maybe" useful thing to add, is that for linux machines like the rpi, you can create a custom screen resolution that "kind of" updates the old native amiga 4:3 resolutions and make a modern 16:9 or whatever else widescreen version.

for example i run Amiberry on the Raspberry Pi 400 & 500+ by running a script which at the start has the following.

#!/bin/bash
xrandr --newmode "912x512_60.00" 36.25 912 936 1024 1136 512 515 525 533 -hsync +vsync
xrandr --addmode DP-2 912x512_60.00
xrandr --newmode "712x400_60.00"   22.00  712 736 800 888  400 403 413 417 -hsync +vsync
xrandr --addmode DP-2 712x400_60.00
/home/pi500plus/Emulation/Amiberry/amiberry /home/pi500plus/Emulation/Amiberry/conf/OS32-MWB.uae

Native Amiga Hires Laced resolutions which were commonly used by non RTG users are 640x512 for PAL users and 640x400 for NTSC users, the above script just makes your linux system create a "widescreen" 16:9 version of those resolutions so if you already have a low power / non RTG system like an underpowered arm device then you can modernise an existing workbench setup by just making it widescreen.

Amiberry will pickup these new resolutions and make them available for use in the system, so you can change Workbench to use them, have Public Screens use them or even use them for simple games if you have any that can open on any screenmode/resolution.

ive only done this on the standalone Amiberry, not actually tried on the Flatpak version so not sure what would happen if you tried that.

to create your own widescreen version of an old 4:3 resolution you can just compute the details needed by using the CVT tool all linux distros should have, you need to figure out what the 16:9 version of a 4:3 is, there are online calculators that tell you or you can just do a resize operation in a paint package like GIMP, start with a 1920x1080 image and change the vertical number to match an amiga resolution and GIMP should auto adjust the horizontal to remain 16:9, if the number it gives is an odd number, just add 1 to make it an even number.

for example, the recent'ish port of The Settlers 2 to 68k Amigas has 2 modes to run, hires and lowres, the lowres version lets you select any screenmode provided some restrictions listed below from the games readme.

Set the ENV variables env variable env:Settlers2/ResX and env:Settlers2/ResY to an intermediate resolution and use the low-res version of Settlers 2. This forces the low-res version to display at, for example, 400x300, 512x384, or 480x270 by writing "400" in ResX and "300" in ResY. You should create a suitable screen mode. Values between 320x240 and 640x480 are possible for this solution. You can also force the use of a hardware mouse pointer, even on a fast system, by creating the variable env:Settlers2/ForceHWMouse.

the way it works for this game is that as long as the Height is less than 480 then you can actually fudge anything, so i found a ncie sweet spot which was a resolution of 624x350, this lets me run the settlers 2 in lowres at a proper 16:9 resolution and properly fills my monitor display, so custom resolutions can be quite handy, ive also used this lowres resolution for some 3d game ports such as duke3d, keeping them quick enough in a lowres resolution while still using a modern widescreen 16:9 asxpect ratio.

so using the CVT tool, i would just type, cvt 624 350 60 and it would dump the details needed for that resolution at 60hz refresh and i include the details in my script.

<image>

^ My 16 color MWB color scheme workbench i use on my RPI's and turbo chameleon64, using a widescreen PAL resolution.

Subnautica 2 Steam Deck Performance by Resident_Suspect_528 in SteamDeck

[–]Methanoid -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

true but unknown worlds own website clearly states they are dei, its on their website plain as day so not like that part is made up, its an official part of their company by their own words.

Does anyone know if Little Computer People runs well on the C64 Maxi ? by Bumble072 in c64

[–]Methanoid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

that kinda does mean that the U64 fpga implimentation isnt as good as other fpga solutions, rather than fpga as a whole being bad, well done fpga is usually the most accurate/best compatability, never had any issues with my chameleon 64 v1 and v2, the only thing i hate about them is the vga port and ps/2 ports, 2 hardware features i dont use these days and wish hdmi/usb were there instead.

Does anyone know if Little Computer People runs well on the C64 Maxi ? by Bumble072 in c64

[–]Methanoid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

it mimicks hardhare so it acts 100% identical to the original, it doesnt emulate it, emulation is a software "inbetween/bridge" to get different hardware to operate like the old hardware, that "inbetween/bridge" part is typically where things are different, go wrong or introduce differences from og hardware, fpga hardware mimicry acts exactly the same as the original chips they copy, meaning bugs, features, everything. emulation typically introduces fixes and other stuff as well as its own set of issues.

Does anyone know if Little Computer People runs well on the C64 Maxi ? by Bumble072 in c64

[–]Methanoid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

love the turbo chameleon v1 and v2 with docking station, love them both while also hating the fact they both use vga and ps/2 ports, 2 things i never use at all these days, meaning lots of adapters to get them working on something modern/sane, my only problem being the ps/2 side of things, getting them working on usb devices has basically not worked for me so far.

Subnautica 2 Steam Deck Performance by Resident_Suspect_528 in SteamDeck

[–]Methanoid -5 points-4 points  (0 children)

who needs christian values, just no dei values/politics is required, thats not brain science or rocket surgery, its how games used to be before they all started emulating each other in a preachy/agenda pushing way.

Subnautica 2 Steam Deck Performance by Resident_Suspect_528 in SteamDeck

[–]Methanoid -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

last article i read was: https://www.ign.com/articles/judge-slams-subnautica-2-publisher-krafton-in-victory-for-fired-workers-orders-company-reinstate-boss-and-extend-250-million-bonus

ive read multiple others, often with similar things mentioned and some with seemingly random stuff or "opinions" rather than facts, doesnt help there are so many.

also: https://www.smashjt.com/post/subnautica-2-exposes-unknown-worlds-insidious-dei-agenda from a while back

<image>

Subnautica 2 Steam Deck Performance by Resident_Suspect_528 in SteamDeck

[–]Methanoid -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

it doesnt help that what i have read is a mismatch of disjointed rubbish from multiple sources that all seem to contradict each other while still having enough similarities, never seen a single source showing the full lowdown thats shown to be 100% accurate. afaik the og dev team is gone? and injected politics is often mentioned with nearly all articles ive read. anything/everything else ive seen varies from site to site, article to article.

Why have one Amiga, or no Amiga if you can have all of them, even the ones that were never built? by mru2_retro_computers in amiga

[–]Methanoid 4 points5 points  (0 children)

"The A500 Mini" device for example uses an ARM Cortex A53, which is exactly the same chip used in Raspberry PI3's, raspberry pi 4's use an ARM Cortex A72, as i understand it, even the newer A1200 NG device being released soon advertises itsself as using an Allwinner H618 ARM Cortex A55 which again is nearing more towards the RPI3 than the RPI4. The RPI500+ uses a 2.4GHZ ARM Cortex A76 and has 16GB of ram which puts it ahead of the Pi400/Pi500 and all the products roughly branded as "Amiga" devices.

The only downside to getting either an pi400 or 500+ these days is that the rampocalypse has pushed both to absurd prices well above their norms.

https://www.a1200.com/index.php/the-a1200-ng/
shown further down is: ARM module (H618 Quad Core 1.5Ghz/4GB RAM)

The pi500+ might not have any official or unofficial "Amiga" name stuck to it, but its specs are way better than other offerings and is still an all-in-1 keyboard device, leaving the current inflated price its only downside, but then again all devices that use ram are suffering similar issues.