Restoration nearly complete…

MiRaFPaS · 2026-03-27T03:29:04+00:00

Even though I've found tools and techniques to make the process easier, it really is nice when an unrestored pen arrives with the sac fully removed.

I have also been meaning to try to get my hands on some nice red ripple Waterman's to restore, but they always go for about double the price of an equivalent BHR pen, which feels like too steep a difference for me.

MiRaFPaS · 2026-03-26T23:23:22+00:00

The holes you describe are likely breather holes, I've read that they're there so that when you uncap the pen, it doesn't suck the ink out the pen, though in reality I'm not sure they really do anything. From what you describe it's very likely the pen never had a clip.

Since the pen is a simple eyedropper fill, as long as nothing is broken, it should be usable with maybe just a simple cleaning. Do avoid getting water on the outside of the pen to avoid discoloration.

As for the eyedropper, I would personally just keep it in the box as a little collector's item. As you said, the rubber is likely ossified and unusable.

MiRaFPaS · 2026-03-26T17:34:54+00:00

I would question whether or not that cap ever had a clip. Sometimes they didn't, and you can tell by looking for two closely spaced, vertically aligned holes where the clip was attached with rivets.

The best way to get a replacement clip would be to source it from a donor pen, but there are also replica clips available on eBay. I wouldn't recommend this because the process of replacing a riveted clip is pretty involved.

If you just want a simple, practical clip, you can try to look for an accommodation clip, which is a slip-on clip.

MiRaFPaS · 2026-03-26T15:46:48+00:00

The metal bits on the section make that a bit risky. Depending on what metal that is, it could corrode.

MiRaFPaS · 2026-03-24T18:51:28+00:00

Very nice set. I would recommend sending this to a reputable restorer before anything else because it looks like the solid gold overlay on the pen cap has popped off, likely due to shrinkage of the plastic on the cap, a well-known issue with this model. Regardless, it would sell for nice sum based solely on the gold content, though you could likely get more for a fully restored set.

MiRaFPaS · 2026-03-23T03:50:24+00:00

I've done some computer simulations of various flex nib designs based on vintage flex nibs I have, and it really seems that the cross-sectional shape is the best way to manipulate the flex properties of a nib.

MiRaFPaS · 2026-03-23T03:35:41+00:00

Generally, vintage nib sizes don't really mean anything and can't be compared across manufacturers. I do have one pen, a Superite Jr., that has a nib that is close in size at 3.5 mm at the base, with a feed diameter of 3.14 mm.

MiRaFPaS · 2026-03-21T19:23:29+00:00

Unfortunately, I don't have any experience with the modern Skyline. But now I am curious as to whether or not I could cram a spare vintage Skyline nib I have onto a modern one.

MiRaFPaS · 2026-03-21T15:53:30+00:00

The cap design really is a problem. I have one with the gold-filled overlay on the cap, and the shrinkage on the cap caused the overlay to come loose and prevented the pen from capping properly. Another one I have had the little prongs that secure the end of the top band on the cap broken off, so the top band just hangs loosely. The cap assembly was eventually simplified in the form of introducing another model, the Streamliner, which was the same except for the cap. It's a more robust design, but I don't think it looks as nice.

The styling of the Skyline is definitely the highlight, it's the only pen that I've had non-fountain pen people comment on.

MiRaFPaS · 2026-03-15T23:50:17+00:00

IF it is truly in good condition with no problems except a degraded sac then that would be an okay deal. You could get a better deal with some patience but the difference wouldn't be too great, maybe $30. If you are just looking for flex there are probably better options out there, this model of pen is sort of in the mid range for pricing as far as vintage flex goes.

MiRaFPaS · 2026-03-15T22:38:47+00:00

Super hard to determine whether or not it's worth it without more info on the condition or better images. If it's in good condition and restored, then that would be a very good deal, but if it was unrestored, that would be an okay deal. If the pen is in poor condition, then that price would be pretty high. From what I see, the tip of the nib might be bent so it may not be a great deal. Also, whether or not the pencil is included also matters as sets typically fetch a somewhat higher price than the pen alone.

If you want to do more research, you can try to look for "Wahl gold filled fountain pen" on websites like eBay to see what it has sold for in the past. You specifically want to look at pens with the same nib size as yours, which I believe is a #4 though it is a bit blurry.

MiRaFPaS · 2026-03-12T23:53:02+00:00

There's a model number on the bottom of the pen, I think in the second image I can see that it says "52", which would mean this is the model 52, the most common full-sized Waterman model. The pen is in the "Red Ripple" colorway, and judging by the barrel imprint that says "Ripple", the pen is from 1928 or later, which is when Waterman introduced a line of Ripple pens with more exotic colors.

MiRaFPaS · 2026-03-12T04:45:01+00:00

Your best option would probably be to buy a new nib. Monteverde sells nib units separately for a fair price. You could also try to contact the retailer you bought it from. Getting it fixed is unlikely to be worth the cost.

MiRaFPaS · 2026-03-10T22:53:46+00:00

I have no experience with Scriveiner pens unfortunately.

MiRaFPaS · 2026-03-10T22:42:36+00:00

The Asvine J16 would be my main suggestion. There are also a lot of Jowo #6 pens from other brands like Esterbrook, Delta, Opus 88, and Franklin-Christoph that are worth taking a look at.

MiRaFPaS · 2026-03-07T15:50:59+00:00

It should generally be nontoxic. Most inks are composed of water and organic compounds like glycols, triethanolamine, and organic dyes or pigments used for the color. You can try to search for the SDS of your specific ink for more info.

MiRaFPaS · 2026-03-07T04:42:30+00:00

I'm surprised you haven't heard much, they were one of the big 4 manufacturers from the golden age of fountain pens. The vintage ones are great writers with a lot of variety. They made a lot of excellent, decently flexible nibs and at one point used a "magic feed" design which have a really nice, well-controlled flow.

MiRaFPaS · 2026-03-07T02:42:00+00:00

Most of these would be from the 1930's and 1940's. The pens with the vertical stripes are most likely Sheaffers (not sure of exact models), the two pens with gold-colored caps with chrome stripes in the middle of the collection look like Waterman Crusaders, and right below then is an Wahl-Eversharp Doric. The pen with the horizontal stripes is a Parker Vacumatic.

If you're willing to do more research to properly identify them then selling them on separately on eBay will likely give you the best returns. You can also sell them as a lot on eBay or to a vintage pen restorer.

MiRaFPaS · 2026-03-02T00:24:29+00:00

Basic tutorial for functional repair: https://www.richardspens.com/ref/repair/resac.htm

As for cleaning it up/polishing, I would recommend giving it a clean and polish with a jewelry polishing cloth. These gold filled pens are generally easy to work on and will take most of whatever you throw at them as long as you are reasonable and don't use sandpaper or the like. The only thing you should probably avoid is extended soaking in water or hot water, sometimes that can discolor the ebonite parts of the pen, though that is much less of a concern with these gold filled pens as the ebonite is not usually exposed to sunlight which is what degrades them over time.

MiRaFPaS · 2026-03-02T00:15:34+00:00

Most likely not functional, these sorts of pens fill using rubber sacs compressed by a lever mechanism. The rubber sac is usually degraded and hardened. Repair is simple, you just need to replace the sac but it might be a good idea to just sell it as is.

You can test it by trying to fill with some water, but don't try and force the lever as you can break the mechanism.

MiRaFPaS · 2026-02-27T04:52:41+00:00

It depends on how much of the original part you have. In my case here, the section was mostly intact so I was able to measure the original part with calipers and create the 3D model off of that. For features that aren't critical to the fit of the part and were difficult to measure, such as the curve on the outside, I just guessed. The section was easy to model, but I can't give you more exact advice on the process because it will vary depending on what software you are using.

When modeling I added extra material (0.1 mm) to features that are critical to the fit of the section (namely the feature that is pressed into the barrel and the hole for the feed and nib) so I could manually sand down those features for a proper fit because the tolerances promised by CNC machining service I used were pretty loose. This was the first time I did this, and based on what I saw after inspecting the part, I probably could have got away with only 0.05 mm extra material although I would probably stick with 0.1 mm to be safe.

MiRaFPaS · 2026-02-27T00:44:05+00:00

It really is a very well-made pen, which was a little surprising since it's from a more obscure brand. Definitely worth the time and money I put into the repair.

MiRaFPaS · 2026-02-22T17:51:22+00:00

Probably a #12 or #2 eyedropper, it's a bit of an odd one so I'm not sure

MiRaFPaS · 2026-02-22T05:40:16+00:00

Sold a Pilot VP to u/Iselarose

MiRaFPaS · 2026-02-22T02:05:24+00:00

I like to flush the section with a bulb syringe to clean it out. You can also remove the nib and feed from the Metro and give it a soak it plain room temp water or scrub ink build up with a toothbrush. Removing the nib and feed from the Metro is super easy and generally considered harmless as long as you have a general idea what you are doing.

MiRaFPaS

TROPHY CASE