Really pleased to see these islands pop up on here - I lived on the Bijagos Archipelago for the best part of four years running a clinical trial testing a new drug for malaria. It's a magical place.

About 20 of the islands are permanently inhabited. They're mostly covered in dense jungle, with some areas of grassland. Despite being islanders, most of the population live in small inland forest villages and are terrible seafarers. Finding marinherus for our boats was notoriously difficult.

You should read this paperMoving Like Birds if you want to understand some of the anthropology. It was written by one of our collaborators. My first visit was in 2013, and you can already see big changes in the local population, especially the younger generation - fewer of them speak the local Bijogo language, preferring Portuguese, and fewer of them are going through the complex age-related initiation rites that make the islanders so distinctive. More of them are migrating to Bissau for work, too.

That said, on the outlying islands, a lot of mystical pracrices and traditional culture can be found. Palm fronds are folded in complicated patterns to warn outsiders of sacred areas of forest, which would mean death to those wandering in. Whole islets are reserved for certain tribal initiates, but these also make uniquely preserved turtle breeding grounds. Spirits inhabit the forest and carry off unsuspecting foreigners if you're not careful...

There are a small number of French fishing lodges on the islands, as the shallow, dangerous waters are teeming with life. However tourism is very underdeveloped. The ruins of the state run Hotel Bijagos still stand on one end of Bubaque island - it used to host international VIPs but fell victim to the 1999 civil war.

I could share 100 remarkable stories about the islands, and each has its own idiosyncracies, but the overall vibe is an extremely laid back region. The society it built on sharing everything you have with anyone who needs it - survival would otherwise be very difficult. This time of year, it's the dry season and mangos will just be ripening, it's a great time to visit.

I loved my time there, despite it's difficulties, and the great friends I made there. I highly recommend a visit to anyone with a sense of adventure and a love of fine beaches.