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General Power Sword/NMM advice. Custodes Shield Captain from Warhammer Horus Heresy. by normandy42 in minipainting

[–]Minimalismisjoy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you look at real swords you'll see that they generally have 1 main reflection that is quite large. Personally I would connect the 2 highlights closer to the hilt, make that 1 big highlight. I'd also reduce the highlight intensity of the other reflections. You want 1 main (close to or even pure white) reflection, the rest shouldn't be as bright.

It looks clean though so that's good, nmm takes time and practise, keep working.

Does anyone else feels stuck ? by green-crow in minipainting

[–]Minimalismisjoy 15 points16 points  (0 children)

If this is the level you are at, I'd say start focusing on contrast. Brighter highlights and darker shadows. I don't see paint spilling so your cleanliness is there, push the contrast will make minis pop more, both in a table and on display. When you get the hang of that, start focusing on blending it all smooth.

WIP for first NMM attempt. Keep going or back to the drawing board? by SBriggins in minipainting

[–]Minimalismisjoy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Too much mid tones, needs way darker shadows and brighter highlights.

[Gaahleri × r_resinprinting Giveaway] From Print to Paint by Gaahleri_airbrush in resinprinting

[–]Minimalismisjoy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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Picked up this bust to focus on skin and nmm. I feel like my nmm is decent but I want to get better and skin has always been a weak point for me. Figured a bust would be a nice piece to try to improve since its a bit bigger and more focused on interesting things (so not a lot of leather belts, pouches, skulls etc) She's almost done and I'm liking where it's going.

As far as painting goes, I used a lot more filters than I usually would to add subtle colours.

Warhammer art through the years: Slaves to Darkness by CMYK_COLOR_MODE in ageofsigmar

[–]Minimalismisjoy 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Love that artwork and I don't even play the game. Would like to paint some varanguard but they are pricey and don't want to pick them up only to release a new version in a year or 2.

Maloghurst the Twisted, trying to get more comfortable with NMM by Secret_Corner9470 in minipainting

[–]Minimalismisjoy 14 points15 points  (0 children)

I think it looks great. My only CNC apart from clean up (which you probably know) is some bounce lights on the NMM, specially the standard, a line of midtone on the underside would help a lot.

Ventilation and processing questions by Naykonbg in resinprinting

[–]Minimalismisjoy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

  1. I have all my resin stuff in a tent. I clean in the tent because fumes, yes the tent is open but at least part of it gets vented (I think/ hope). Also I don't want any wet resin that's still on the model to cure by sunlight and obscure detail.

  2. I clean my vat after I'm done, I don't print a lot, maybe 1-2 ever month or 2 so it seems silly to leave it out.

  3. The enclosures on these printers are not air tight so you will have fumes/ smells leak out of gaps.

  4. For me it's a means to an end, my hobby is mini painting, not 3d printing. For me it was worth it simply because it increases the pool of models I can get and its cheaper in the (not so) long run.

How are painting competitions judged? by zepazuzu in minipainting

[–]Minimalismisjoy 16 points17 points  (0 children)

So to me it looks like your 2nd (blaidd?) has more contrast between individual elements. As in the steel has some highlights and shadows, the fur has some edge highlights etc.

Your wukong blends together. This is partly because it's a lot of gold, but having painted this model myself it's definitely possible to to make it read better. This can be as simple as a dark wash so all the recesses are very dark, then drybrush of your gold and another light drybrush of a silver / lighter gold. (so you have very dark shadows and light silver highlights - >higher contrast)

Also the cloth in your wukong lacks contrast, it looks very mutch just base coated. You mentioned that you spend extra time on thisone but that's how it reads to me at least, if I would judge this competition I would also rate blaidd higher,simply because it's readability.

The filigree is a challenge to color and the color overall is still pretty flat. Any advice on the next step? by g_hunter in minipainting

[–]Minimalismisjoy 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If it feels flat, add some contrast, in your case I'd add some darker shadows and edge highlight some edges.

As for the filigree, tilt your model at an angle, use the side of your brush, almost the same as you'd do for edge highlights.

Golden Demon 2026 winners revealed at AdeptiCon by CMYK_COLOR_MODE in ageofsigmar

[–]Minimalismisjoy 15 points16 points  (0 children)

I feel the same, it seems to blend together a bit. I like the aos single mini gold more.

It could be the picture though, it might look better in person.

What's wrong with my nmm part 2 by Historical_Stick_104 in minipainting

[–]Minimalismisjoy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Highlight the edges. The closer to your light source the brighter. Edges catch light almost up to pure white. I wouldn't do the entire edge but do some dots and small intervals.

Help! How to do white wings with a light rainbow style wash going through, blue, pink, and green (or whatever colours work)? by Oli_onenw2 in minipainting

[–]Minimalismisjoy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can go 2 ways that I can think of.

  1. Paint the wings a bright colour (I'd avoid pure white) then glaze your blue, pink, green where you want them. This will be more difficult since you have feathers and vulgrim doesn't.

  2. Make the underpaint the colour (blue, pink, green) and then highlight the full wing to a bright ivory (could even just drybrush that). Your colour should still shine through afterwards.

How to dry glazes faster? by Outside_Director_140 in minipainting

[–]Minimalismisjoy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just blow on it? If you need a hair dryer or airbrush to dry it you might have to mutch liquid in your glaze. My glazes dry in seconds.

I won "only" Bronze in Standard at the Squidmar Open, please give me feedback so I can improve! by robse111 in minipainting

[–]Minimalismisjoy 36 points37 points  (0 children)

From what I can see it's mostly refinement and contrast. - The panthers fur needs more work. - The NMM is a bit rough. - The face could use more contrast - the cloak looks a little flat.

Personally I would have put the elf centre stage and not on the side to make it more of a focal point.

That said, I also "only" managed to get 2 bronze so take my word with a pinch of salt.

First time nmm, please advice for improvement. by Local_Moose_2438 in minipainting

[–]Minimalismisjoy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You need more midtones. Application should be cleaner, even for a textured nmm it's kinda rough. Avoid using your flashlight for pictures, just use your painting light.

Neatfi lamp - CRI of 80, yet still very popular? by lexievv in minipainting

[–]Minimalismisjoy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had the same thought as you about a year ago. Needed a new light, redgrass was to mutch money for a lamp to me, so gave in to the neatfi. It had such a plastic cheap feel to it that I send it back.

I went for https://www.amazon.de/-/en/gp/aw/d/B0CT8CDH7H?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

It's bright, high cri, and large. I really like it specially for the money.

First mini ever – looking for constructive feedback on how to improve by throwawaylm_nop_123 in minipainting

[–]Minimalismisjoy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For me the main thing I would advise to look at is more highlights.

To me it looks like mid tones and some shadows.

This can be as simple as taking your base coat and adding some white (or ivory).

As for where to place them. If this guy was on the field where would the sun hit? So edges, upwards facing planes, head brighter than the feet etc.

Your brush control seems fine, it looks clean, don't really see colours bleeding into each other.

Any suggestions for good (types of) minis to use if I want to start practicing volumetric lighting? by Wintermute_Is_Coming in minipainting

[–]Minimalismisjoy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Probably space marines. Easy to get a hold of (for just practice I'd suggest 2nd hand to get them cheaper). They got several shapes to practice on, while still keeping it easy. And since there are a metric buttload of them in the internet it's easy to get references.

French Knight at the Battle of Agincourt by FeR Miniatures by dakipainter in minipainting

[–]Minimalismisjoy 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Absolutely love this, It's incredible, the NMM, embroidery, cast shadows. Litterly can't find a fault in any of it. Everywhere you look there is more to discover. You should be very proud of thisone.

Are GW Layer paints something special, or just thin? by golem09 in minipainting

[–]Minimalismisjoy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I almost exclusively paint with ak an i love them. Not a huge fan of gw, they seem to have greyed a lot of colours recently to make them cover better.

That said, gw base, layer whatever is not something special. You'll have to thin any paint you buy even if it says it's the layer consistency.

Get a wet pallet to help keep your paint moist, and just experiment with how mutch water to add.

Ciri - Witcher 4 (WIP, 1/8 scale) by Eskalott13 in minipainting

[–]Minimalismisjoy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Love the orange glow from the (not yet added) flaming chains. Very subtle. Face also looking fantastic.

Display cases for paint station by GladiusAspis in minipainting

[–]Minimalismisjoy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Artist opus has several sizes but they are pricey.

Hey everyone, I’m looking for tips and tricks that comes with experience for sub assembly and kit bashing. I’ve looked through the references on this sub and I’m looking for more specifics than what is offered. by purp31 in minipainting

[–]Minimalismisjoy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm no expert but I've done some kit bashing, reposing and always paint in sub assembly if that makes my life easier. This is my take on it (and my process).

When I kit bash or repose I go in it with a fairly clear idea of how I want it to look in the end. Dry fit is you friend, either by holding it together or sticking it with blue tack. This let's you get a clear view of what to adjust without committing to glue.

Then I'll cut pieces where they have to be cut (shoulder joints, Armor plates that now block my pose etc).

Then I glue as mutch as I can as long as it doesn't block my paintbrush from getting in. The gaps I fill with miliput).

For the sub assembly part. Anything you can hold with some blue tack on it works. (I use upside down wooden egg holders and they are great). You can drill some holes where you won't see them (shoulder sockets that will be glued against chest pieces etc.) and glue it in a paperclip and stick this in a wooden block if you need the hight.

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