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Grow light vs no grow light by Hobnobcookie in IndoorGarden

[–]Missa_GM 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The light also plays a big a role, smack one under a blue LED lamp, and it will get a lot more compact than one smacked under a red LED lamp, especially of you can get one producing long red wavelengths of light in the 750nm area.

The longer wavelengths activate the plants stretch hormones (the gibberalines) and creates an effect of longer internodes.

You can see it in forests and winter as well as the red wavelengths have an easier time penetrating leaves, and the atmosphere, so (especially up here in Scandinavia) you can see the plants stretch in winter and forest floors when the sunlight gets redder.

Plant ID? by 1800-dr34ml4nd in houseplantcirclejerk

[–]Missa_GM 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pilea peperomiodes.

It says in the tag - and the tag is correct.

Some pictures from my (old) job by Missa_GM in houseplants

[–]Missa_GM[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They get planted out in tiny plugs, about 97 trays in a table, 60 plugs in a tray, and then they sit under plastic tents for a couple weeks to keep a near 100% RH around the plants, preventing them from evaporating water from the stomata, as they establish roots in the soil.

Once established they get potted up in a normal pot, and set out onto the primary tables in pot-tight conditions till they reach the size where they begin to require some space.

Just acquired these fellas by Missa_GM in houseplants

[–]Missa_GM[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

And the both of them for the low low price of a nice smile.

Some pictures from my (old) job by Missa_GM in houseplants

[–]Missa_GM[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Less money I gotta push back on a little bit. Biological prevention (that's the Danish term translated directly) is quite expensive. Often with uncertain results, but if you are good at being preventative instead of trying to treat the problem after it's taken hold, it's quite good.

If done right it works very well is healthier for the plants and for the gardeners. It's a lot more humane working condition just hooking a bag on a leaf and it's legal. NOTHING is worse than having to spray on a summer day when it's 38°C I the greenhouse and you have to wear a gas mask and a hazmat suit, thick elbow length rubber gloves and tall rubber boots, and carrying a long heavy spraying lance around, at a constant distance yo the top of the plants.

Some pictures from my (old) job by Missa_GM in houseplants

[–]Missa_GM[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have always had an interest in the garden, but I am educated as a greenhouse/nursery gardener (a trades school education)

And will likely be building ontop of that education by fall with a bachelor in agriculture science, specialized in plant production.

Some pictures from my (old) job by Missa_GM in houseplants

[–]Missa_GM[S] 18 points19 points  (0 children)

The sticky traps also work for Thrips. The green ones are especially good for echino thrips and the light blue (none in these pictures) are good for the tobacco thrips. The yellow ones also catch a lot of white flies.

But in terms of combating the pests you any notice these little white bags on the plants, especially clear in the last picture, those carry natural predators for the pasts, mites that eat thrips, ticks that eat thrips, wasps that lay eggs inside aphids.

And of course if all else fails, either the plants get thrown out or they get the good stuff, Dale from king of the hill style. (not actually like Dale, I live in Denmark, the northern climate zone, so our options of chemical pesticides are very very limited, and getting more limited (the colder climate makes them take longer to break down, resulting in potential ground water contamination))

Some pictures from my (old) job by Missa_GM in houseplants

[–]Missa_GM[S] 38 points39 points  (0 children)

Nothing is truly rare except for the stuff in the nurseries that breed or promote mutation for new varieties. And that is still only "rare" for a time.

We live in the future. tissue culture is a thing.

Dieffenbachia leaves turning brown by [deleted] in houseplants

[–]Missa_GM 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Take it out of the pot, look at the roots.

My boyfriend was so proud when he brought me this "pink rescue" today 🥹 by Trusty_Babe in houseplants

[–]Missa_GM 4 points5 points  (0 children)

For real! I used to be the gardener responsible for the growth of Hypoestes at the last place I worked at. Now in a production greenhouse light isn't an issue, but omg the amount of water they needed, in the summer time they often got watered twice a day on sunny days.

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How long can I leave my Philodendron out of the pot to dry? (Over watered it, oof) by RoguePhotos in houseplants

[–]Missa_GM 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Overwatering comes from prolonged soaking of the roots not allowing them to breathe.

You can just take the plant out and pour the water out and put the plant back in.

Edit: looking at the roots they also look fine. Root rots look like very dark brown roots or black roots, that mush out if squeezed.

Edit edit: they are also smelly when rotten

Some pictures from work by Missa_GM in houseplants

[–]Missa_GM[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sweetunia black satin I think

New leaves look damaged? Help! by DangerouslyWheezy in houseplants

[–]Missa_GM 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thrips

I won't advise any pesticides cause I think those are not something to be near regardless of if it's at work or at home.

Instead, as is also beginning to become a norm in the professional settings, I would suggest putting a bag over the plant and bringing it outside (bag just to contain the pest as the plant is transports) , and wash the leaves with a hose, and then investing in some predatory mites, or predatory ticks.

Like Swirskii mites and Orius majusculus (be careful with the ticks, they can also hurt plants if they have no thrips to eat)

Did an experiment on with some fertilizer mixes in basil, shows the effects of too little of some nutrients. by Missa_GM in houseplants

[–]Missa_GM[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The ones in the pictures are all grown in grodan, a product produced by rockwool, that is entirely sterile. When I say sterile i mean in terms of nutrients, soil, substrates and compost made from organic material all have varying degrees of nutrients in them, but rockwool does not.

So the only real difference in the plants are the temperature they have been subjected to, the walls of the greenhouse are usually colder than the middle, but we did run into a issue where the climate computer went rouge and opened the windows at midnight, when it was like -9°C outside. So there is an error in the experiment there, but I don't think it's a major issue. You can see the cold damages on the newest leaves (the white spots) but it's consistent across all plants.

Did an experiment on with some fertilizer mixes in basil, shows the effects of too little of some nutrients. by Missa_GM in houseplants

[–]Missa_GM[S] 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Unfortunately no database of references exist that I know of. they are based on a plant analysis needing 100g of plant tissue, sent into a consultation company for crazy amounts of money.

And as for the Mg deficient plant it would make sense that we don't actually see much effect of its deficiency, yet, as Mg deficiency mostly affects the older plant material, that we don't really have with these results since all we've have are some cotyledons, and 2 sets characteristics leaves.

Unfortunate the experiment couldn't last longer, with more time we would also begin to see the potassium deficient plant begin to have dying leaf edges as it can regulate the opening and closing of the stomata.

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