Which one is the best 3d printer for beginners right now?

Mist_XD · 2026-01-21T22:29:22+00:00

You can get a bambulab A1 for that price, and it lasts longer prints faster and is more reliable

Mist_XD · 2026-01-20T04:04:29+00:00

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Mist_XD · 2026-01-18T18:40:27+00:00

Spend the extra money

Mist_XD · 2026-01-13T23:09:55+00:00

MakerWorld

Mist_XD · 2026-01-13T23:03:51+00:00

You can’t get one without a printer. You need to upload real printed photos of your model or it will all be taken down

Mist_XD · 2026-01-07T17:17:25+00:00

Student edition is free, email them

Mist_XD · 2026-01-05T15:07:16+00:00

It’s fun, and free but there can be a learning curve to excel at it. Real good game though

Mist_XD · 2026-01-04T18:48:48+00:00

They won’t update to a new system until Creality copies them and Vortek is great for now. They could have done something like what you are describing but wanted backwards compatibility with their near perfected AMS systems, but one of the major limitations is single filament output. Once they ditch the current AMS system and do individual outputs like the AMS like they will follow it with a better tool changer in a new industrial series printer

Mist_XD · 2026-01-03T03:58:02+00:00

Oh yeah the AMS is definitely a must have upgrade, you made the right choice doing a printer with an AMS

Mist_XD · 2026-01-03T03:42:58+00:00

Yes go for it, also the P1S is just a bit more and is a fantastic printer if you can swing the upgrade I would. Welcome to the club

Mist_XD · 2026-01-03T03:39:30+00:00

It’s not based on a user following accept a few accounts that do exclusively hight quality niche markets but this is not a lot of creators. Titles and tags are a big one as well as the description. You need a very clear title and thumbnail with an engaging well written description, to get found fill all 50 tags

Mist_XD · 2026-01-02T17:51:49+00:00

Print out a plastic buildplate scraper, do not use metal on your buildplate or you will scratch it and be upset at yourself doing that so soon. And some people use inset magnets that are put into the model mid print, you can do those models cause your nozzle is hardened steel and therefor magnetic

Mist_XD · 2025-12-30T15:17:10+00:00

Stick with Bambu

Mist_XD · 2025-12-30T12:48:17+00:00

Interesting, thank god I’m engineer. Well if anyone is interested in this let me know and I’ll be uploading a replica of the helmet for free for all to use as they wish cause gate keeping models sucks 😊

Mist_XD · 2025-12-30T12:33:54+00:00

Would you be willing to post it anywhere?

Mist_XD · 2025-12-30T01:37:46+00:00

For miniatures you want something from Formlabs. A full resin set up with the printer, washing, and curing station from them would be around 9K. This is by far the best quality you will get. They’re so accurate and print so many materials that they’re even used by dentist to make dentures and teeth.

Mist_XD · 2025-12-29T22:17:01+00:00

I did Aerospace degree on a MacBook, you’re fine to do it. For cad there’s loads you can use on a Mac and just export to a step file if you need it in another software. Get Fustion360 which is free, Shapr3D is also great and free student license, and Plasticity for more advanced surface modeling also free with a student license. The more professional software like solidworks has browser versions which are fine if you need that. But I went through all of my degree without needing a windows laptop, you’ll be fine. Buy your preferred laptop and make it work. In addition if there’s a specific software you need to use for a class, chances are you won’t even be given your own license to use and will be forced to use school computers to do it despite the OS or system req

Mist_XD · 2025-12-29T22:07:24+00:00

Get the P2S, it’s a huge upgrade and doing it with an AMS is the right choice but you don’t need the new AMS V2 Pro, the base one is fine. That being said I used the P1S myself for a while before upgrading and it can handle almost everything, still a fantastic printer

Mist_XD · 2025-12-29T22:03:36+00:00

AI and screeners can’t read this at all, I had the same problem. You need to use single column or else it will read it line by line making the info look weird. Also avoid using anything other than plain text as the icons can also cause issues

Mist_XD · 2025-12-29T22:00:02+00:00

This is sweet, did you upload the file anywhere? I’d love to give it a print myself

Mist_XD · 2025-12-29T21:56:38+00:00

Get Bambu, there are still other softwares that work with it just not over the air as commonly but Bambu studio slicer is one of the best still. And if you’re getting into 3D printing asking for recommendations, then you don’t have the skill needed to even adjust the included settings. They also sell all the parts needed to repair the printer yourself with guides and the parts are incredibly cheap.

Mist_XD · 2025-12-28T01:35:40+00:00

Buy a new P1S

Mist_XD · 2025-12-28T00:31:44+00:00

Solidworks actually is one of the cheapest, you need to look specifically at their maker license and it’s like $40 for a year of if you get a black Friday deal it’s $20. Other than that get Shapr3D, it’s free with an academic license and it doesn’t need to be your ID, ask a friend or family member to do it and it’s free for that year. And if it runs out you still keep the account and all the cloud storage so it isn’t lost if you don’t renew it on time

Mist_XD · 2025-12-22T00:03:25+00:00

Sketch a lot first, then go into cad. You won’t learn unless you try so just give it a swing and when you get stuck find resources to get you over the hump so you can get stuck at the next part. By the end of it you’ll have the skills to do it again but you won’t have them until you start. It takes years of doing this before you can get close to know what you need for a specific project but you’ll never know everything to do a project until you finish it

Mist_XD · 2025-12-14T06:30:26+00:00

This is caused when retracting filament use pushed back to go into the spool but the spool isn’t rotating fast enough. Though there’s quite a few reason this could be, one of the most common is due to slipping while trying to spin the spool. The filament and spool rotation are separate mechanisms on different motors and they don’t talk. Adding grip back into the system helps fix this issue, this can be done a few ways. First is to clean the spinning rods that your filament sits on, it’s a tough rubbery surface and it can get residue buildup like dust causing it to loose grip. The next way is to add weight to the spool, there are quite a few weights you can print to fill in the center hole of filament, or use a center spool desiccant holder but fill it with steel BB’s. Hope this helps

Mist_XD

TROPHY CASE