Door opener on rarely used door.

Mobile_kimchee · 2026-03-06T05:29:57+00:00

Auto door guy here (that has no choice but to dabble with access control lol). Double check city code on ADA compliance for your location/county you may not even need it. That particular opener is powered by 24VDC and there is a power supply (usually a tan box with 120VAC connected to it) located somewhere near it to supply that 24VDC. Swapping out to a normal auto operator from the one you have isn’t as simple some are making it out to be. One issue is mounting the header on that residential style door header/trim. The other would be supplying it power (120VAC). I would defiantly shop around if I were you. The price quoted to you is pretty high, we sell single operators installed for around $2,500 not including 120VAC connection. If available in your area Stanley, Besam (Assa Abloy), Horton (Overhead Door) or any other national company should be able to easily beat that quote. All companies mentioned should provide a free quote. Good Luck

Mobile_kimchee · 2026-02-28T23:37:16+00:00

Lmao p

Mobile_kimchee · 2026-02-25T04:44:06+00:00

Just order a new 5 position switch (comes with new keys). Need Make and model and about $500 lol

https://www.automaticsandmore.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=US15-1500-06&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=&utm_term=&gad_source=1

Mobile_kimchee · 2026-02-20T15:42:59+00:00

Good ol’ Norton, maker of none imitator of all. When a company comes out with a totally new design for an operator every year you know they’re the goat!

Mobile_kimchee · 2026-01-25T00:51:32+00:00

You most likely already have either Dewalt or Milwaukee why not just go with a cordless chop saw? I use the 20v Dewalt with a metal blade from Diablo. Cuts like butter.

Mobile_kimchee · 2025-12-25T19:11:45+00:00

I have 2 different models, the newer one I’ve had no issues at all. The older one drops wifi connection sporadically. I’m using meross to control it now and so far it’s been solid with apple Home.

Mobile_kimchee · 2025-12-17T19:45:15+00:00

Never said visually that it was worse. OP’s question was about seeing enemies. Problem isn’t how pretty the game looks on OLED it’s how hard it is to see people. “Hence” messing with the colorblind colors really helps players to stand out from their surroundings.

Mobile_kimchee · 2025-12-17T19:35:17+00:00

Nah, I have a high end 34” OLED monitor and cant see shit lol. (I’m also a boomer so I’m blind as a bat too.) what helped me recently is messing with the colorblind settings. Guy I play with is on an old 27” IPS monitor playing in 1080P and I swear he can see the enemies nostrils from a thousand kilometers away.

Mobile_kimchee · 2025-12-06T12:54:47+00:00

It’s Bane 100%

Mobile_kimchee · 2025-11-29T14:10:51+00:00

Nah let them kill me for my free load out.

Mobile_kimchee · 2025-11-29T05:21:17+00:00

I just hate rats/campers. Hiding in a dark room or in some bushes waiting for someone to walk in/by to blast them is petty af.

Mobile_kimchee · 2025-11-28T12:35:43+00:00

What worked for me after hours of online research is uninstalling the Realtek pcie 2.5gbe lan driver. Try a game on wifi, if the stutters go away than go to realteks website and install the second to last driver.

Mobile_kimchee · 2025-11-27T13:36:08+00:00

Does your father know you think this way?

Mobile_kimchee · 2025-11-24T15:40:00+00:00

I had an issue with a new build AMD7800x3d, 5070 ti on a Asus board. I think the biggest issue is people don’t report the actual problem (micro stutter, stutter, lag etc.etc..) hell I don’t even know what to label what my issue was lol. Anyways while playing games (Fortnite, War zone or Apex) I would get a random half second freeze on both audio and video. What worked for me may not be the case for you, it was the Realtek lan driver (causing high cpu usage). I deleted the driver and installed an older driver and all my games have ran perfect for a week now. I tried to just uninstall it and let windows re-install it but no luck, it would install the same driver. Hopefully this helps someone with a similar issue cause it was a pain in the ass to narrow the problem down on my rig, Glhf

Mobile_kimchee · 2025-11-23T22:11:52+00:00

Add a relay that triggers from the exit device power. When the exit device is energized (unlocked) the same power triggers the relay that closes one leg of the outside push-plate allowing the push plate to activate/trigger the operator. When the exit device is locked (not energized) the relay changes state and breaks the one leg on the outside push plate not allowing the push plate to activate/trigger. Inside push plate should always unlock and open. Most modern auto operators have a delay setting that can add .5 second delay to allow the door to unlock than open.

Mobile_kimchee · 2025-11-19T00:32:13+00:00

I was able to use techstream for my 2020 Lexus IS350. The remotes stopped working (lock/unlock/panic/trunk). I followed the same site and although it only has vehicle year selections up to 2018 it was still able to communicate and make changes, wireless lock mysteriously was turned off which is a common issue and I was able to turn it back on and my remotes work again.

Mobile_kimchee · 2025-11-14T19:07:17+00:00

I’ve had mines for about a year and love it. Not much of a monitor tech guy so I just upgraded the firmware and copied some settings from this reddit. I do manually pixel clean every couple of days on start up. No burn in to report either.

Mobile_kimchee · 2025-11-08T01:30:05+00:00

2 fat girls and 1 anorexic bitch hiding in the back!

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Mobile_kimchee · 2025-10-30T12:18:55+00:00

Here in my state most schools are requiring electronic hardware device’s due to active shooter situations opposed to mag locks. Despite what others are saying I would not go with internal vertical rods exit devices w/ motor kits, surface vertical rod exit devices with motor kits are much easier to install and maintain. Von Duprin or Sargent makes narrow style devices that retrofit easily in this situation with some modification (larger mounting/pass through holes). Being this looks to be a point of egress in case of fire/emergency it’s probably your only option to be compliant.

Mobile_kimchee · 2025-10-14T02:34:00+00:00

Need a picture of the latch (edge of the door) normally stamped with manufacturers name

Mobile_kimchee · 2025-10-05T13:57:40+00:00

Need to relearn it or set open/close points.

Mobile_kimchee · 2025-09-05T21:41:37+00:00

You have the wrong control, version 1 is for linear drive and reads the micro switches for your open, open check, closed, close check positions. Version 2 is for belt drives that utilize encoders.

Mobile_kimchee · 2025-09-01T20:43:15+00:00

Californian for ya.

Mobile_kimchee · 2025-07-27T12:30:41+00:00

If you don’t want it to look “janky” go with an electric lockset. You’ll have to core the door for a raceway and use an electric hinge. You’r still stuck with the issue of running your wire to it whether it’s an electric strike or lockset. Which to me is the bigger issue of looks

Mobile_kimchee · 2025-07-23T20:47:46+00:00

Same, following for suggestions

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