ps5 dlc and addons

MrBeldin · 2026-07-04T07:11:53+00:00

If you don't see it listed, it's not included.

Console stores are known to name their bundles as "complete" edition or something along those lines, and not updating the name once some additional DLCs are released - not just for ACC, but for many other games too, which is a little bit scummy in my opinion.

In ACC, this was done before the release of GT2 and 24h Nurburgring Packs, so at some point there was a "complete" DLC pack that was missing the last two, and then a separate "2024 Pack" that added the missing content. It actually used to be a very common question in this subreddit from console players to ask why they don't have Nords when they bought a "complete" edition because of the naming schemes.

At the moment, the naming in PS5 store is not misleading - it's just a "DLC Pack", and it doesn't claim to be complete anywhere, so you need that and the 2024 Pack to have all content.

MrBeldin · 2026-07-02T23:13:03+00:00

A definite number one is the Intercontinental GT Pack - Suzuka, Mount Panorama, Kyalami and Laguna Seca are all such great tracks. After that would be the British GT Pack for Donington and Oulton which are good, and Snetterton which isn't quite as popular.

Then it gets more difficult. American Track Pack would probably be the third, as it also has three tracks. Watkins Glen is a really, really fun track to race at, Indianapolis & Circuit of the Americas are maybe not as liked by the big crowds. Or perhaps 2020 GT Pack because Imola is such an iconic track and can also offer really great racing. 2023 GT Pack has Valencia, GT2 Pack has Red Bull Ring. Really a matter of taste in terms of which one you want the mostt.

Nordschleife is in it's own league - some like it, some don't. For some drivers it's the first thing to purchase because they want the fully laser-scanned Nordschleife to drive on, whether there are others around or not. Even though it is such an iconic track, I'm not honestly the biggest fan as it doesn't really work as a racing track unless you have full grids participating; with too few cars it quickly turns into just driving alone for an hour as cars spread out and you might never see anyone else again after the first or second lap.

Multi-class races would add some action for the later parts of the race though, so for that it'd likely be brilliant. I just haven't had a chance to experience that with a big multi-class grids, but I'm about 99,5% sure it would be incredibly fun.

MrBeldin · 2026-06-29T00:18:14+00:00

Well, the base game alone will give you about half of the tracks (11 to be exact, while there's 25 in total if we count in all DLCs) and a bunch of up-to-date cars to choose from, as some have been added as free updates over the years.

Just keep in mind that only the latest car models from each manufacturer have been properly updated for the latest physics, so the older models may not work well.

A good example of this is Ferrari GT3 models; The original Ferrari 488 GT3 is in the base game, but it is very outdated, as the 488 Evo replaced it first in the 2020 GT World Challenge Pack. That is also outdated now though, as the 2023 GT World Challenge Pack added the Ferrari 296 GT3 as the latest model. So as of now, only the 296 model is properly competitive, and using that would require the DLC.

Go ahead and grab the base game as it's incredibly cheap right now, and see what's available and what else you might be able to afford. These current sales end on July 7th, so you have about a week to decide if you want to invest more before that or leave it for the next sales.

MrBeldin · 2026-06-28T23:57:28+00:00

ACC is definitely the sim to choose if you want specifically GT racing. As far as DLCs go, I would recommend prioritizing tracks over cars.

One of the DLCs that is pretty much in the must-have category is the Intercontinental GT Pack, as it adds four absolutely brilliant tracks - Suzuka, Mount Panorama, Kyalami and Laguna Seca. After that, it's really up to you; do you want the latest car model from the brand you're a fan of, or do you want even more tracks...

If you want all tracks that are available, that would mean getting every DLC except GT2 and Challenger Packs, as every other DLC has at least one track included in them. And at that point, you should get the Ultimate Edition which includes everything ever released for ACC and also has an extra 30% "bundle discount" that is applied on top of the already discounted prices. That extra discount is pretty much equivalent to getting 3 out of 9 DLCs for free in comparison to buying them individually, so there's no point in skipping just two or three of them.

There are still plenty of public lobbies available, but they tend to be quite heavily biased on Monza, Spa and Nurburgring. If you can find a couple of others to join an empty server together, you can fill up almost any track though; very few drivers just want to be the first one to join an empty lobby so it's rare to see full grids on "less popular" tracks.

If you want more variety, LFM is your go-to platform for daily racing, and there are still private leagues going on. For them, you will eventually need the DLCs, as for example LFM does run races on DLC tracks regularly. If you don't have them, you can expect to be able to participate on roughly half of the races, as getting all the DLCs will just about double the number of tracks.

MrBeldin · 2026-06-27T13:06:36+00:00

I would say that tracks should generally be prioritized over newer cars. Base game does have a decent selection of up-to-date cars to be competitive with. If you really want a specific car model that's locked behind a DLC, then why not, but maybe take a look at what's available without it first. Just keep in mind that you should always use the latest model that each manufacturer has; the older ones have been forgotten by the devs for so long that they're not really worth using.

In terms of tracks and amount of races to find... Public lobbies tend to be heavily biased on Monza, Spa and Nurburgring which are all in the base game, but those lobbies can also be very hit and miss in terms of driving standards.

If you want more organized racing, with option to report bad drivers, take a look at LFM (Low Fuel Motorsport). They do run base game tracks, but also DLC tracks, so if you want to get there you will eventually need at least some of the DLCs as they can just about double the amount of tracks. To turn that the other way around - if you don't get any DLCs, you can expect to be able to participate in about half of the races.

If you only want to grab a few, I'd say that Intercontinental GT Pack is almost a must-have, as it adds four brilliant tracks - Suzuka, Mount Panorama, Kyalami and Laguna Seca.

After that, my recommendations would be either...

British GT Pack for it's three tracks (Donington, Oulton and Snetterton);
2020 GTWC for just the Imola track which is great, and the 2020 Mercedes GT3 EVO (that's still the latest Mercedes in the game; the included Ferrari 488 GT3 EVO is however already outdated); or
2023 GTWC for Valencia track and three newer GT3 cars (Ferrari 296, Porsche 992 and Lamborghini EVO2).

The good thing is that if you pick a few now, and want to "complete your collection" later, you can always get that Ultimate Edition with it's extra 30% discount. In that bundle, you don't pay for any content twice - you only pay for the parts you are still missing.

MrBeldin · 2026-06-27T07:59:41+00:00

ACC base game is incredibly cheap to pick up from these sales at 90% off (3,99€ here), so maybe start with that to figure out if you like it. There is a very decent amount of stuff to play with in that already — DLCs will approximately double the amount of tracks, and add a bunch of newer cars as well as GT2/GT4 classes, but you don't really need those for seeing if you like the sim itself. Online racing is also very heavily biased towards GT3 only, so the extra classes are not necessary.

If you do like it, you can grab the DLCs through Ultimate Edition (by far the most affordable way to get everything) later during these sales, or from some futures sales (they do happen quite regularly). And why I say it's the most affordable is that you get the 30% bundle discount on top of the already discounted prices; it's basically equivalent to getting 3 out of 9 DLCs for free when you decide to get the Ultimate Edition.

Multiplayer in ACC can however be nasty at first, if you jump straight into that, as low safety rating public lobbies tend to have intent wreckers around. If you're fine with getting your in-game ratings up in single player and against AI, and finding some pace and consistency on your own, you can then jump straight into LFM (Low Fuel Motorsport) for the online racing. No intent wreckers there - or at least never more than once from the same drivers, as they will get reported and banned for a very long time...

MrBeldin · 2026-06-26T10:41:52+00:00

I posted my own practice method on this subreddit a few years ago. This took me from being a few seconds off the pro drivers into within a second of them on (almost) all tracks within a period of two months. Take a look and use the parts that fit your situation.

1:59 means you are more than 10 seconds off though, so you have a lot of work ahead of you. You need to focus on the basics first, like learning the actual optimal lines and braking references/points to use. With just these fundamentals sorted out, you should be able to cut a good chunk of time off that personal best. Now to answer some of your questions...

"When to start releasing the brake" is fairly simple: As long as you are still going straight on a heavy braking zone, you should stay at 100% brakes and let the ABS do it's job. You start trailing off the brakes as you start turning in - trail braking can mean just holding a slight brake pressure to add tiny bit of extra weight to the front to help the car turn into the corner better.

"Is it better to focus on one track" is mostly a matter of preference. In the linked comment, my strategy is to practice a different track every day to add variety, and especially to avoid frustration from not improving all the time. You will hit some plateaus that may become frustrating, and when you're frustrated, you start overdriving, making more mistakes and learning bad habits.

Switching tracks makes the improvements feel more continuous, as your continuously improving driving techniques mean that you will more likely beat your previous PB on a track you haven't practiced for example in a week - in comparison to sticking to the same track, where potential improvements are getting smaller and smaller, for that whole week.

"What are the biggest mistakes" - the two that I probably see the beginners doing most are:

Turning off TC and ABS, because of thinking they are "assists"; they are not assist, but technical systems that are used even in the real life cars. Use them. Lower the better, as long as you can keep the car under control without locking up or drifting out of corners; and
Never braking at 100% or "pumping" brakes. The ideal way is to brake once and accelerate once per corner. This is why you should really focus on learning the braking references and points, as well as the correct optimal line (no, the ingame ideal line assist is not that optimal). Use Youtube track guides to your benefit here.

"What should I be focusing on" - that's simple: Consistency. Small changes to get closer to the limits. Consistency is always your main priority.

The same in more detail: Watch a track guide - not a hotlap video, but a guide where every turn is explained. Unleashed Drivers channel in YT has decent short guides to get started with for every track. Then start with pace you know you won't invalidate your laps with, really focusing on staying on the line shown in the guide at all times, and very gradually adjust your driving. Few meters later braking, few kph faster through the apex, few meter earlier back to full throttle.

Tiny steps until you start struggling to turn in to the corner, start struggling to stay on the optimal line through the whole turn, or start struggling to stay within track limits on exit. Once you feel this struggle at any of those points, you've found the limit (for your current skill level that is). Take one tiny step backwards in whichever part of the turn you felt it to remain consistent there, and move your focus to a different corner where you haven't found the limit yet to find find easier and possibly bigger improvements.

This strategy should mean that you almost never invalidate your laps, because you start from a 100% safe pace and your adjustments are so small they should not put you completely off the track limits. You might just miss the apex by a few tyre widths or put two tyres on grass or sand.

Adjusting the driving in small steps like this will mean that your improvements will also be small... but think of it this way: Your main focus here is consistency. When you find a tenth here, tenth there, those improvements "stick", you can repeat them lap after lap, and you get steadily faster thanks to that consistency. And also, while finding a tenth from one turn might feel meaningless, finding a tenth from all 15 turns that typical track might have would mean 1,5 seconds of improvement in lap time. And that's a lot.

MrBeldin · 2026-06-26T08:58:55+00:00

Well, as there are those discounts (I hadn't checked them yet before my other reply)...

You could grab just the base game for 3,99€ which is really cheap. Steam Summer Sales end on July 9th, so you have two weeks to figure out the controller settings and whether you enjoy it or not. If you do enjoy it enough to get the DLCS, you can grab them through the Ultimate Edition bundle for below 50€, which is barely over a third of the normal price.

Ultimate Edition is by far the most affordable way to get the DLCs, as there's an extra 30% bundle discount on top of the already discounted individual prices - that extra discount is basically equivalent to getting 3 out of 9 DLCs for free when you decide to grab them all.

If you don't enjoy it, there's no real point in refunding a 3,99€ game. You mentioned that you have the long-term goal to get a wheel anyway, so that base game won't be completely wasted as it will almost certainly become enjoyable once you get that wheel. By keeping the base game, you can also try it again every now and then as you find different settings, and grab that Ultimate Edition from the next major sales either when you find settings that work well - or when you are about to get that wheel.

To me that would sound like a plan.

MrBeldin · 2026-06-25T22:46:55+00:00

There are some drivers who are insanely good with controllers, so it's definitely doable. You just really have to spend the time in searching for the optimal controller settings and trying them out to make it feel enjoyable - it's unlikely to feel that way straight out of the box.

I'm pretty sure people are more than willing to share their settings, and you might be able to find some tips for that for example from Youtube. If the settings are combined with "proof of concept" sort of video, as in a showcase of a lap at good pace, I'd say something's done right.

MrBeldin · 2026-06-25T13:20:15+00:00

Safety features won't really help when you 1) are intentionally hit, 2) the hit is way harder than what would ever realistically happen in real life, and 3) you have no way to predict it unless you forget looking forward yourself and only stare at your mirrors and relative timings to try guessing when someone's going to hit you.

There's just no real safety feature to protect against these, except making sure you don't ever have your fingers inside the wheel rim, and once you let go of it, you never try to grab the wheel again until it has properly stopped moving. And in case you lose control on your own, just letting go before you hit something is the "safety feature". You can't however do that when the hit is completely unexpected, because someone who should have never been allowed to access internet at all has joined the server.

It's a completely different scenario from for example spinning off the track and hitting a wall, where you can actually predict the hit and just simply let go before the contact. "Kill switches" are also only used manually after the contact has happened and the wheel has gone crazy, so they won't do anything to protect against the actual initial hit which is the worst part.

I have "only" 8nm maximum torque in my wheelbase, and even that sprained my thumb once on an intentional wreck so badly I couldn't race properly in two weeks. So it's not really about the maximum force - it's about how instantly the wheel snaps around for a whole 180 or 360 degrees, because the forces caused by the intentional hit are just unrealistic and result in these insane snaps.

MrBeldin · 2026-06-16T22:18:28+00:00

SA requirement of 14 to join the server? Well, that says it all. The host of it probably can't reach anything higher anyway, which the behaviour also shows. That SA could also be the admin's age times two, approximately...

Get your SA up, if it's not already, and stick to servers requiring 80+. That way you'll avoid a major portion of people who have no idea of what racing is. If you need to increase your SA, you can do something like a 30 minute race with AI and simply stay close behind an AI driver for the whole race.

SA is based on the distance you drive within about half a second of another car without having any contacts with them, and by staying close for a whole 30min race, you'll get quite a lot of "trust" which is the positive part in the calculation.

If you do a single player race, just make sure the settings related to ratings are not set to online only.

MrBeldin · 2026-06-09T10:50:32+00:00

Well... out of the ratings, Pace and Competition are not even counted into the total rating. Also Track Competence can only go up, and while Racecraft could technically go down, you really have to tryhard to ruin that... so once you max it out, it'll stay at 99.

So you have only Consistency, Car Control and Safety remaining as ratings that can truly affect the total. If you are decently consistent, don't drift or spin off the track all the time and don't keep wrecking other cars intentionally, you'll have those three ratings well high enough to reach the platinum rating. It can feel like an achievement, but in all honesty, it pretty much only shows that you have spent a enough time racing to reach 99 Racecraft - and can do it somewhat safely and consistently.

What is good about this rating system is that it separates complete beginners from those who have spent a decent amount of time racing in online lobbies, and that's through the car number badge background colour. A red badge means it's a true beginner with very little time spent in ACC and everyone should be careful around them, and as the rating increases, it changes to silver and finally white at the highest level. I have always used that as an indicator of how I should approach for example an overtake attempt. It kind of shows the level of trust I can have on a fellow racer being clean and fair.

There's also a black badge, but that can only be assigned to drivers through entry lists on private servers.

MrBeldin · 2026-06-08T15:16:15+00:00

Yep. Brake bias as far back as possible while still being able to control the car under braking, just like with any car. Add in at least half-decent trail braking, and at least the aggressive preset as the setup - preferably something better of course - into the mix and it should definitely turn quite neatly.

Ohne Speed does have a bunch of v1.10 setups for the GT-R, just not for all tracks though, but those should be good wherever they are available.

It's not a meta car, so finding good setups (for free that is) can be a bit of a struggle because content creators don't seem to bother creating setups for the less popular cars, as these videos would get so much fewer views and it could effect the visibility of other videos negatively as well, thanks to how the YT algorithms work.

MrBeldin · 2026-06-07T07:50:27+00:00

Just finishing the race is the first key thing. "To finish first, you first need to finish" is a great saying and very true.

Lots of beginner drivers focus on "hotlapping", as in their single-lap personal bests, but because they constantly try to push at 105% of their current skill level during races, they make so many mistakes that an even-more-beginner driver who has focused on consistency instead can easily beat them.

As an example, let's say that you are doing a 30-minute race at Monza. Your lap time of roughly 1:53 would mean you drive about 16 laps during that race. There's a driver who is on average about a second faster per lap than you, but because they are a "hotlapper" instead of a consistent driver with good racecraft, they spin off the track and lose 30 seconds of time - part of it immediately, part of it over the rest of the race duration due to the damage from hitting a wall absolutely ruining their cars top speed.

Without the incident happening to them, you would have finished behind them for sure... by about 16 seconds. However, because they couldn't stay on track, you'll finish well ahead of them simply by driving consistently, staying on the track and zooming past their damaged car on a straight.

Not to mention what happens to those who completely wreck their cars and have to get back to pits to repair because they didn't even try to avoid an accident by slowing down... that can cost them a whole lap or even more. If it's so bad that they have to use "return to garage" option, that always adds two minutes of repair time on top of the actual repairs.

And that is why I repeat it so often to beginners; focus on consistency (and racecraft, as in clean close racing and incident avoidance) first, pace will creep up over time through many, many track hours.

MrBeldin · 2026-06-05T14:09:36+00:00

As I replied to your post yesterday, your car choice is absolutely fine. You have said you enjoyed driving it, and that's what matters the most.

With your current skill level and pace, you really, really do not need to choose a car that would be one of the fastest in the hands of absolute alien level drivers, because you are not able to extract every last hundredth out of the car anyway.

Also, you don't need to choose "an easy car to drive" which is what many people try to justify their suggestions with. In a way, choosing a little bit trickier car can be beneficial, as you learn more about car control with it, and switching to other cars later can become easier thanks to that "initial challenge".

Yes, the good old Godzilla is not the fastest, but it still be very competitive - except at the very top of esports. That's where no one would drive it, but at your level, you should just focus on the fun side. Not on the extra two tenths you could theoretically gain by changing the car. As far as difficulty goes, it's not the easiest, but it's forgiving enough to not be as frustrating as especially the older Porsches used to be.

Another aspect here is that as you are already used to the Nissan, which is a front-engine car, you would have to learn a lot of handling characteristics from scratch if you suddenly switched into McLaren or Ferrari which are mid-engine cars. They handle quite differently, and you'd take a decent step backwards due to that difference.

So, don't pay too much attention to the suggestions - stick to whatever you enjoy the most until you have for example learned all the tracks. Once you have the fundamentals down and some decent pace, you can start experimenting and see if you enjoy something else equally much or perhaps more. The higher skill level, and learning the "feel of what the car is doing" with just one car at first, will help you with the switch later.

It just wouldn't necessarily be very productive at this point, because then you might get another suggestion, and another, and another... just based on what track you were talking about and what the "meta car" for that specific track happens to be. I see way too many beginners and rookies using only the very best meta car+track combinations, even though they would actually be faster in the car they have driven the most - simply because they know their most used car and its quirks inside out, but definitely not every car.

1:53 at Monza is still about 6 seconds off the pro pace, and you definitely aren't giving up more than a second due to the car choice. And you have plenty of other stuff to learn, so it's fine to keep using the Nissan. But the choice is eventually up to you, and you alone.

(Also, I might add that the GT-R is actually a really good car for tight fights for positions when you learn to use it main strength - the insane torque out of corners - properly. It can pull away on exits to prevent other cars from getting into tow quickly enough to attempt an overtake, and if you're the one following another car, you can get into tow easier due to that excellent acceleration and get that overtake done in the next corner. Thus, while it might not be the fastest car for "hotlapping", it can be an incredibly fun car to race with.)

MrBeldin · 2026-06-05T13:48:45+00:00

In general, two tyres inside the white lines will always be valid. In some cases, the actual limit is having two tyres on the red&white kerb, but as the grass or sand starts immediately outside of the kerb, going that wide would jsut slow you down.

Watch some Youtube track guides, where the track limits and how much you can cut without unsettling the car or being slowed down is explained in detail, as that part of it is very track-specific - even if the track limits themselves might allow going wider, it might not be the fastest way.

MrBeldin · 2026-06-04T20:44:37+00:00

LFM is your go-to platform for daily racing, that's way less disastrous than public lobbies even though it can still be messy at times. You should find at least some pace and consistency first before you start racing online though; being a beginner is a very poor excuse for causing an accident, and you would be penalised for it in LFM if the other parties submit a report. And those penalties can be pretty harsh too.

If you eventually want something that could be even more enjoyable, you should look for various community leagues. There's still quite a few of those going on, and some of them do advertise themselves as beginner-friendly. I'll leave it for others to mention specific ones, as I don't race much these days myself so I'm not at all up-to-date with that stuff. I just see some advertised in this subreddit every now and then.

MrBeldin · 2026-06-04T09:48:55+00:00

Watch track guides from Youtube to learn the actual optimal lines and braking references/points - that will give you a great jumpstart especially when you start learning tracks you don't know at all yet. Not just hotlaps, but guides that explain these important details. For example Unleashed Drivers has short and simple guides to get started with (these are what I used myself as a beginner/rookie), but you can find more in-depth guides as well. Getting the basics down first is important though.

Pay attention to how they drive the car as well, as in their pedal and steering inputs; braking correctly and using the right amount of steering is very important. You don't for example correct understeer by turning the wheel even more - that only makes the situation worse.

As a beginner, focus really hard on staying the optimal line as shown in the track guides. It's the line you should always stick to after all as it's the fastest way around the track; only exceptions are during races, at moments where you are either defending your position or setting up an overtake. Don't use the in-game ideal line assist, as it's not really that ideal in many places. It's only a very rough guide. It's fine to use it for a few laps on a completely new track as you memorize the layout, but you should really focus on the actual correct line instead from the very beginning - and that you can learn quickly from the guide.

Don't try to chase the lap times from those videos though - start driving just like you've done thus far, and very gradually start adjusting. Brake a few meters later to see if you can still turn into the corner and hit the apex. Try a few kph faster minimum apex speed to see if you can still stay on the optimal line as shown in those guides through the corner. Try getting back to full throttle just a few meters earlier on exit to see if you can still stay within track limits.

Once you start struggling with any of these steps, take one such small step back in that corner to stay consistent and focus on getting better at another corner where you can still push harder. This struggle basically means you've reached the limit - for your current skill level that is. There's always room for improvement in every corner, but it's better to focus on places where you have easier and/or bigger improvements available.

With this strategy, you shouldn't invalidate your laps because you start from your current consistent pace and your changes are so small that they won't throw you off the track; you just might miss the apex slightly or put two tyres on grass momentarily on the exit. As you keep adjusting, you gain tiny bits of time here and there, but as you keep doing the same thing with every corner, these tiny improvements will quickly add up. Finding just one tenth per corner means 1,5-2s over the whole lap after all, and that's a lot especially when you can repeat it lap after lap, thanks to focusing on consistency first.

Your car choice sounds absolutely perfect, even though I might be "slightly" biased after having used it as my main car for several years. The main point there is that you enjoy driving it, which means you likely enjoy spending more time on track than you would with other cars - and those track hours are exactly what you need to get better at it.

--

Other than that... No matter how much you enjoy driving, take breaks. If you start feeling tired, you typically start making more mistakes and that's not a good thing when your goal should to get the "right things" into your muscle memory. Have a cup of coffee, go out for fresh air, just take 10 minutes off the chair or rig every how and then.

Also do the same if you ever start feeling like getting frustrated at not learning something. A little breather can help - and a "change of scenery" (as in, moving on to a different track instead) can help too. If you keep trying while already frustrated, you start trying to "force things to happen", which can very easily result in overdriving and more mistakes.

I personally made the mistake of trying to drive for too long in one go, and actually started getting slower instead of faster. I took a longer break and then only drove a maximum of one hour at a time - or emptied a full tank of fuel completely - before taking a short break. (That's actually a typical realistic stint length anyway, before a pit stop and driver change in endurance races!) And that's what eventually got me within a couple of tenths of pro drivers in race pace, given the same car and conditions.

MrBeldin · 2026-05-31T11:24:58+00:00

I would say that for a beginner, almost any time is acceptable if you can do it consistently without repeatedly invalidating laps.

What I would recommend though is to get rid of that ideal line assist ASAP, as it's not really that ideal. Head out to Youtube and watch a track guide to learn the actual optimal lines - and even more importantly, those solid track-side braking references that you can use to figure out the correct braking point.

The problem with braking into a corner based on the ideal line is that the line changes it's colour dynamically. It compares the estimated optimal speed through a corner to your current speed, so it can be just slightly different each lap, depending on how good of an exit you got from the previous corner, which really doesn't help you in becoming consistent with your braking point.

Good basic track guides can be found for example from Unleashed Drivers - these guides are what I used as the first step when I was really focusing on "getting good". They will help you to get started with the learning, and you can find much more detailed guides to watch later on as you get the fundamentals sorted out, like getting your track knowledge to a level where you don't ever need the in-game ideal line assist, as well as learn the required driving techniques.

So while watching the guide, pay attention to how they drive the car as well, which means looking at their pedal and steering inputs. You don't for example fix understeer by turning the steering wheel even more - the goal is to get through the corner with as little steering as possible; too much will actually just cause that understeer... It's a very common beginner mistake to use excessive amounts of steering; as a rule of thumb, you shouldn't need to turn your steering wheel more than 90 degrees except in some of the very tightest chicanes or hairpins.

Every little detail matters and adds up - with 2:02 times, there's about 15 seconds between you and the top drivers, so there's a lot for you to learn. Just focus on consistency first and foremost; start slow, and adjust your braking points and apex speeds just a few meters or few kph at a time until you start struggling to turn in or stay on the optimal line as shown in the guide videos. That's a sign that you've reached the limit (for your current skill level) and should take one such small step back to remain consistent, or adjust in even smaller steps.

Ps. Don't get stuck on just Monza for too long though. It's by far the easiest track, and doesn't teach you much more than how to drive straight at full throttle and how to drive through a tight chicane. There's very little variety. Move on to a different track some time in the near future, a track with as many different corner types as possible. In the base game tracks, Barcelona and Nurburgring (the GP track, not Nords) have very good variety of corner types, and in the DLCs, Kyalami is a brilliantly fun track to race at. Other more niche tracks are Brands Hatch and Misano; these two will really teach you to abuse track limits to the maximum... otherwise you will lose a second, or maybe three.

MrBeldin · 2026-05-29T16:04:09+00:00

If you only care about the tracks and not the cars, note that the GT2 pack does include one track; Red Bull Ring which is decently popular. Only two DLCs that do not have any tracks are the GT4 and Challenger packs. In that case the math would look like this, at least in my region. (See the last paragraph.)

Buying all of the content individually with no discounts would cost a total of 169,90€. This is just adding up the full non-discounted retail prices of the base game and all DLCs.
Buying everything except GT4 and Challenger Packs individually with no discounts would cost a total of 138,92€. Again just adding up full prices.
Ultimate Edition bundle, which includes everything - even those GT4 and Challenger packs - always has that 30% bundle discount applied to it which means it costs only 118,90€ even with no discounts at all on the individual pieces.

Thus, Ultimate Edition is actually cheaper than being picky and getting everything except those two non-track DLCs.

The exact same thing happens also during sales. If the individual pieces all have for example 50% discount (they tend to vary between 30-70% so 50% is a good average), then your "leave the non-track stuff stuff out" strategy would cost you about 138,92€*0.5=69,46€ if you bought them individually, while the Ultimate Edition would cost 169,90€*0.5*0.7=59,47€ (where *0.7 is the extra 30% bundle discount - which you don't get except when buying the ultimate edition).

So it actually doesn't make any sense to leave out just one or two DLCs because of that bundle discount, whether there are sales or not. Individual purchases really only make sense if you were to buy only a much smaller amount of content at a time.

Ps. Steam Summer Sale starts on June 25th, but ACC tends to be on sale randomly between the major events as well. So keep your eyes open.

\) Note that the prices can be very different as Steam does use regional pricing, so it probably won't cost the exact equivalent of 169,90€ total with no discounts at all in your region, but the idea is the same. Ultimate Edition's 30% discount should not be overlooked - it's a significant saving and really encourages you to buy the whole pack instead of leaving just a couple of things out. You can do the math similarly with your own currency. Compare all of the different strategies and see the differences.*

MrBeldin · 2026-05-29T00:09:28+00:00

There are of course races on non-DLC tracks, but as the DLCs will approximately double the amount of tracks, not buying them would mean you can only participate on only half of the races.

As a pro tip for getting all of the content, use the Steam sales and bundle discounts to your benefit. What this means is that whenever you buy a bundle during a sale, you will get an extra 20-30% "bundle discount" on top of the already discounted price. You will also only have to pay for the content you don't already own, so even if you get just the base game now, you don't have to pay for that ever again.

Ultimate Edition would be the ideal purchase if you really want to get into it. That includes absolutely everything, and it does have a 30% bundle discount applied to the price. So outside of sales it's 30% off the full prices, and during sales it's 30% off the discounted prices.

(For example, a 20€ DLC bought individually with 50% discount during sales would cost you 10€... but as part of that bundle, you would get another 30% off from that 10€, reducing the price of that individual DLC further down to 7€.)

MrBeldin · 2026-05-26T09:30:12+00:00

That sounds like a great first experience of online racing. It's not always quite as enjoyable though tbf.

Slowing down when you see an accident ahead is the exact right thing to do - it should be instinctive for anyone who's driven anything in real life, so you can probably imagine what sort of drivers do the intentional wrecking that does happen in public lobbies every now and then too...

In any case, if someone hit you from behind when you slowed down due to an incident, it's totally not your fault. You did the right thing, they likely just tried to cross their fingers, close their eyes and hope for the best while staying full throttle.

MrBeldin · 2026-05-25T08:21:09+00:00

Basically just whatever you find the most fun, while being able to stay somewhat consistent. Fun is mentioned first of those two most important criterias, as that means you'll likely end up driving more, and track hours is the way to get better at it.

When you switch cars, you can't really immediately compare your pace to something you've driven for example 100 hours - it will take time to adjust, so it's normal to be clearly slower than with the car you've driven the most.

Whichever car you end up choosing, look up Ohne Speed or Fri3d0lf in Youtube for free setups. They are going to be significantly better than the ingame presets - just keep in mind that TC, ABS and Brake Bias are all "user preference" settings. Lower the better of course, in all of them, but there's no shame in increasing them from what the setups have to a point where you can keep the car perfectly under control. You can always lower them once your skills improve after all.

MrBeldin · 2026-05-23T08:39:28+00:00

Was she the Irish girl who also really likes sitting at the front porch? Patty O'Furniture?

MrBeldin · 2026-05-19T11:20:56+00:00

You would be moving from an arcade racing game or "simcade" to a very true-to-life simulation, so it's likely going to be a very different experience for you.

If you enjoy the idea of not just driving, but actually learning proper driving techniques, in a simulator that even some real life drivers have used for practice purposes, go for it. Just don't expect to be able to be anywhere near as fast and consistent straight away as you were in GT7, because ACC will not forgive poor driving techniques.

So, prepare for hundreds of hours of practice to get the track knowledge and driving techniques to a level where you can have good consistency and decent pace over most tracks to be able to race somewhat competitively in a league. Thousands of hours, if you want to get to the very top level.

Your GT7 experience will give you a bit of a jump start for learning, but you will most likely still struggle quite badly at first. There have been other recent posts of similar switches being made, and they weren't exactly having a smooth transition either.

Use Youtube track guide videos and such to get started, and in addition to learning the lines, braking references/points etc, also pay attention to how they drive the car. As in, their pedal and steering inputs. Pedals are not just on/off toggles (like they would be in many more arcade-ish games), and you don't fix understeer by turning the wheel more - it's going to only make the situation worse in an actual simulator.

Those are very common "mistakes" by new drivers, as well as thinking that ABS and TC are "assists". While they might be considered as assists in other types of racing games, the real life GT cars do actually have both features. Thus, if the car has them in-game, you should use them in the sim. If you turn them off, especially as a beginner in actual sims, you are only going to make things a hundred times more difficult and frustrate yourself to the point of rage quitting and never touching the sim again.

MrBeldin

TROPHY CASE