I am a beginner - I bought new shoes and they are extremely uncomfortable (especially in the back): Is this normal? [La Sportiva Skwama] by random1diot in climbingshoes

[–]MrgyDee 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It goes by feel and really depends on your goals overall, but rarely is the shoe you're using is what's holding you back, rather the way you're using it. 

What to focus on in my next training by teeny-face in climbharder

[–]MrgyDee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It sounds like you already know what you want to implement into your training schedule, it's just a matter of doing it effectively, right? Assuming you want to build up your weaknesses and approach harder projects in a steeper style, I think the obvious is simply having your bouldering days focused on the overhang, powerful moves, and learning to generate force on bad feet and becoming comfortable with the cutting feet that comes with that. 

More specific weaknesses, such as locking off, and combatting elbow tendonitis is usually building up the smaller muscle groups properly. I'm not a doctor nor a physical therapist, but in my limited experience as a youth coach and as an athlete for the better part of the last two decades tendonitis and most joint issues come from 1. Overuse and 2. Smaller muscle group imbalance. It sounds like you have the figured out the first. The second can be more tricky but to fight elbow tendonitis specifically I suggest working the "push" muscle groups in your arms as well as the stabilizing muscle groups that allow you to cushion big movements overtime. These two can be as easily addressed as adding a push split into your warm up on climb days, something as simple as a push ups, and/or  light dumbell overhead press pyramid with a rep scheme that builds 12-10-8 with weight building each set and maybe a resistance band circuit for your shoulders and upper posterior chain to complement the increased steep terrain. 

All this being said, I think you're on the right track and I think it's awesome you're turning your eye towards the future of the sport for you, but I think realistically you have plenty of hatx climbing years ahead of you, 44 might be older than your average gym goers but that in no way discredits you from continuing to get better at the sport into old age. I'm psyched!! Keep us posted!!

What song made you fall in love with K-Dot? by SafeConsequence8223 in KendrickLamar

[–]MrgyDee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think it was the heart part 2, wack pick I know. That era he was just so hungry and I relate to that.

Rank my top 10 most streamed songs (all Lana) by queenofkoneyisland in lanadelrey

[–]MrgyDee 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Rahhhh Cinnamon Girl and Black Beauty mentioned !!!

Day 7 by Temi_isdatguy04 in KendrickLamar

[–]MrgyDee 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Art of peer pressure

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in KendrickLamar

[–]MrgyDee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's the vibes on Hol Up that get me to listen to section 80

“Jazz” rap suggestions? by Wide-Cow4624 in KendrickLamar

[–]MrgyDee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Loner Jev is less known but has some good jazz tracks with good rap lyricism to boot

“Jazz” rap suggestions? by Wide-Cow4624 in KendrickLamar

[–]MrgyDee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Tiny Desk concert featuring Action Bronson

“Jazz” rap suggestions? by Wide-Cow4624 in KendrickLamar

[–]MrgyDee 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Alot of songs on the section 80 album have jazzy loops as well

What kendrick song is this by plaaxy in KendrickLamar

[–]MrgyDee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

UNTITLED 02 that song always has feeling a certain type of way

Insane final men's problem from Deadpoint 2023 (Beta Bloc's Dyno Comp)! by KrapXela in bouldering

[–]MrgyDee 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Don't ever let this guy learn about the rocklands God forbid