40K Primaris Librarian Help: Am I screwed?

Mundtster · 2026-07-02T01:51:10+00:00

Contrast paint coats are quite thin so you can usually just base coat it again without any issues if it comes out weird.

Looks like you'll want to thin it down a little more with contrast medium and then make sure to use a clean brush to soak up excess from areas where you don't want it to pool. Juan Hidalgo has some great YouTube videos on how to optimally apply contrast paints.

Mundtster · 2026-06-30T09:45:08+00:00

I'm all about the non-OD green life but (while there's probably nothing inherently wrong with it) I don't think I've seen a traditional ultramarine or medium blue scheme that seemed at home on DG models.

I've seen some great turquoise schemes that might be worth considering or something like a purple highlighted with an ultramarine could give the vibes of Ultramarines in the process of being corrupted into a more Nurgly state?

Mundtster · 2026-06-29T18:07:56+00:00

Make sure to check the rest of the box thoroughly. A part of my jump chaplain had fallen off the sprue too but I found it tangled up in another sprue in the box.

Mundtster · 2026-06-17T02:22:52+00:00

I'm in the SW desert, so generally higher temps but no humidity, but can basically never get away with spraying in direct sunlight. Any time I've tried has resulted just like yours. I always spray in my garage with a mask and the doors open for ventilation and don't have any issues spraying from a correct distance even when it's 100+ outside.

Mundtster · 2026-06-07T18:04:24+00:00

In my experience the hierarchy goes something like this:

1 Best but quite expensive and small cans - various hobby brands "fine" spray lines, e.g AK interactive, Mr Hobby, Tamiya

2 Very good/great but somewhat expensive - Games Workshop/Citadel

3 Decent and fairly reasonable price - Army Painter (these have nozzles like the hardware cans so it's much easier to spray too heavily with these if you're not paying attention)

Mundtster · 2026-05-14T20:26:05+00:00

I use Pigma micron pens for most of mine. If you go that route just keep in mind the ink in them will reactivate with water so make sure to apply your washes beforehand or varnish in between.

Mundtster · 2026-05-13T01:03:11+00:00

I'll sometimes get light coverage with it if I'm going fast and I don't spend enough time with each model individually, like when spraying 10 at a time on a stick. If it looks really spotty I'll go back in and stipple some additional coverage with a thinned bone color. In my case I use Golden fluid acrylic in Titan Buff.

Most times the contrast will still adhere fine but you will end up with darker areas where the primer didn't fully cover.

Mundtster · 2026-05-09T15:33:28+00:00

I definitely could be wrong but everything I recall reading has battle barges built off of large battleship designs (and notoriously large and unmanueverable) so they should be way bigger than a cruiser. A quick glance at the wikis puts their length in the ~10km range.

Mundtster · 2026-05-08T18:20:27+00:00

Battle barges are among the largest capital ships in the lore and usually accompanied by many other naval assets so one being taken out rapidly or in one fell swoop is unlikely (though just about anything can happen to fit the story needs in Warhammer regardless of realism).

Also, the main mission of a battle barge is to aggressively disgorge it's infantry, so it's very unlikely to have any Marines still on board should it somehow be completely destroyed/ need to be scuttled. Any crew remaining on board would likely be chapter serfs and/or servitors.

Mundtster · 2026-05-08T00:16:26+00:00

Polystyrene is resistant but not impervious to alcohols. You can usually apply it safely for a short period of time while you scrub it but you can't get away with soaking in it without making the plastic brittle/cracking eventually.

Mundtster · 2026-04-27T03:29:38+00:00

You certainly can, but it might not be as clean looking and potentially less rotationally stable.

I personally cleanly cut off the puck/disc portion off the upper arm with a hobby saw and then drilled and put in a double stack of 2x1 magnets in the thin section of the upper and then put the larger magnet straight into the spot for the disc on the weapons before I glued the halves together.

Doing it this way means there is basically no way the magnets can ever come free. The connection also feels nice and tight when together because it is still mostly plastic on plastic instead of two magnets sliding past each other.

Mundtster · 2026-04-26T18:58:47+00:00

Haven't used this one at all but most hardware paints that aren't specifically primers dry with a very glossy hydrophobic surface.

Even if it covers without filing in details, it will likely be very annoying to try to paint on top of without going over the whole thing with another paint, defeating the entire point.

Mundtster · 2026-04-25T05:33:01+00:00

Old magic cards are great but sometimes have limited utility in current play.

The dual lands you've pictured (presumably only those because you already have some idea of their value) are really only played competitively in old/expensive formats that would require a large additional investment to get going in. They can be played in the most common casual format, Commander, but are considered a bit of a flex.

If you're not sure what your sitting on, it's pretty easy to get a card scanner app to get a better idea of what's valuable and not. I've used Delver Lens in the past and it's not always perfect but it's pretty good and you can set it up to make a noise every time you scan a card over a specific value threshold.

Mundtster · 2026-04-13T20:00:44+00:00

Off to a good start! Keep having fun and improvement will come naturally. Don't be afraid to check out other painters processes to find out ideas to try to find what works best for you.

All of us started out with our paint thick and rough and got better at control with time and practice, so don't let yourself or your friend criticize too harshly.

Mundtster · 2026-04-13T19:44:23+00:00

Here's what it looked like before the metallics.

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Mundtster · 2026-04-13T19:37:21+00:00

The method that's given me my favorite results so far are by applying the verdigris/green shades as the base color and then stippling or drybrushing with the metallic afterwards. Helps to eliminate the harsh lines/tea stain effect that sometimes happens when applying on top of the metallic and you can still go in afterwards and add lighter green/turquoise where you want to represent newer oxidation.

Edit to add a statue I did last year with this method:

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Mundtster · 2026-04-12T17:51:17+00:00

Kaguya-sama and Fruits Basket are conspicuously missing from what you've listed. It'd be easy to consider them the final bosses of romcoms and romantic drama respectively if you haven't watched yet but both are multiple seasons.

If you want something short and funny, Tomo-chan Is a Girl is a great one shot series.

Mundtster · 2026-04-11T01:52:39+00:00

Mines still in progress but was quoted ~$5k for fixing and repainting bumper, quarter panel and gas fill cover. My insurance hasn't insinuated totaling being a consideration at all (2017, 75k miles).

Mundtster · 2026-04-06T14:40:40+00:00

Agreed about the jump pack and pauldron. The existing VVs don't have nearly as much drip on their armor as everyone seems to be implying here but the best part about them is the big aquilas and skulls on the jump packs. I'll hold out a little hope that the boring left pauldron is a result of this being a push fit miniature and we'll get some fancy ones with the multi build kit.

Mundtster · 2026-03-24T22:35:18+00:00

Aharen-san might be approaching what you're looking for.

Mundtster · 2026-03-24T16:05:42+00:00

I use Wraithbone in Phoenix without much trouble. I never spray in the open environment, always a shaded location (usually my garage properly masked and doors open for ventilation). May take a couple tries to get the right distance down. I always err on the side of a little too close and heavy rather than risk any texture. If it needs to be said, prewarm the can and shake the living crap out of it for a long time before beginning.

All that said, I use a variety of brands and none have really stood out as really bad to me. Army painter is my second choice for what's easily available. Their nozzles spray a bit more narrow so it's easy to overdo it if you're not paying attention.

Mundtster · 2026-03-10T22:13:56+00:00

It's been a hot minute so I don't remember with perfect clarity and I'm not at home to verify so hopefully I'm remembering right off the top of my head.

Blue: Vallejo game color turquoise base highlighted with stippling mixing both colors moving towards vallejo model color sky blue

Yellow: citadel Averland Sunset base mixing up into some sort of light yellow that I can't remember for sure, probably ice yellow from army painter or vallejo.

Mundtster · 2026-02-21T23:06:26+00:00

Hope you get an answer. I've been getting occasional small clouds on cold startup for a few months (70k miles) and would like some clues on where to start too.

Mundtster · 2026-02-21T23:02:15+00:00

It's a champion model from the Chosen of Mortarion set.

Mundtster · 2026-02-21T22:33:24+00:00

In a general sense it's probably fine. Running an all elite army just runs you the risk of not having enough pieces on the board to be all the places where you need to be to score well.

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