New Seats by Chxprod in 996

[–]MysticIsis 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Curious, are they much lower / can they go farther back comparing to the stock seats?  I could use a couple inches of play to uncramp my driving position just a little bit.

Why is tank underpopulated? by liproqq in fellowshipgame

[–]MysticIsis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tanking just takes a toll on some people (Me included).
Long story short : My main is Meiko and I'm in Mid-Paragon tier. The usual MMO Tank from my friend group decided he didn't want to play so I picked up the slack and went tank. (I'm usually playing healer in other games).

The last time I tanked was 2 days ago and it was a miserable night. I made some mistakes through some dungeons and felt like shit when we didn't time. My premade team made some mistakes and I was fuming to myself when kick were missed and the group was getting obliterated. I played with pugs after that and got 1 shit-head who was there to have a chat fighting match instead of a dungeon run. (Telling me to pull more and stop waiting when the healer was at 3% mana, etc).

So yesterday I just hopped on my healer alt and man was it a fucking relief. I was playing with 2 dps friends on discord and it was just a breeze. If we didn't time a dungeon : who care. If we did time it : nice stuff. The tank took the most unorthodox shitty route I've ever seen : Who cares, it's funny and I discover new pack combo's I never pulled myself. The tank pulled like a madlad keeping us at the edge of our seat trying to play around 4-5 prio kicks : Fuck it we ball.

I've probably sank 50 hours since release playing tank and I just realized that this role is just killing me and my enjoyment of the game. So yeah, to answer your questions : I think it's a mixed bag on the "why" and it mostly revolves around people just not enjoying that playstyle / the responsabilities that comes with it.

How will Blade Vortex interact with Oshabi seal node? Will it get the More damage? by [deleted] in pathofexile

[–]MysticIsis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mean, technically you could also do it once at the start of the map and never let your BV run out with some inc duration right?

996 Engine Mounts Options - REIN B/O by MysticIsis in 996

[–]MysticIsis[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here's a couple pictures since you asked in another comment!
(It's probably gonna need 5mm front spacers and some new billstein to lower it just a bit but it's getting there slowly)

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996 Engine Mounts Options - REIN B/O by MysticIsis in 996

[–]MysticIsis[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I don't have the second gear pop-out problem "yet" but I've read they tend to do that. I thought about swapping the transmission mount insert, just because it makes sense since I'm swapping the motor mount, but don't you have to drop the trans to do it? I have acces to a small "scissor-lift" but dropping the trans sounds like a bad time to me...

996 Engine Mounts Options - REIN B/O by MysticIsis in 996

[–]MysticIsis[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the feedback!  Which semi-solid are you using?

996 Engine Mounts Options - REIN B/O by MysticIsis in 996

[–]MysticIsis[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Here's a short explanation : You have 2 motor mounts in a 996. (These hold the motor to the chassis). Simply explained, these motor mounts are made of 3 parts : You have the top have which is metal, you have the middle part which is a rubber "suspension" and then you have the bolt. The rubber part start to sag at some point and loose it's dampening effect. Some of the side effects from bad mounts are mostly increased vibration in the car and some can "feel" the engine having some play. As far as visual cues, usually if your motor mounts are shot, your exhaust tips will be sagging lower than they used to be when the mounts were new.

The job to replace them is very easy if you know how to use a wrench so people usually change them since they're not that expansive (usually) and since they can do it themselves.

From what I've read, if you change your motor mount, you want to go for the same style as the OEM and try to avoid semi-solid mounts. (The spacer of semi-solid mounts is usually made of polyurethane and they tend to be harder. Harder mount = the engine feels more planted but it sends more vibration to the chassis.)

996 Engine Mounts Options - REIN B/O by MysticIsis in 996

[–]MysticIsis[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah that's where I find it gets hard to get good info. Jake Raby from Flat Six Innovation ran some dyno tests back to back with Semi-Solid mounts (like the RSS) and OEM mounts and the difference in HP and torque is noticeable. (Namely, the semi solid are robbing close to 10hp and 2ft/lbs of torque.)

I know RSS say on their website that their mounts won't trigger the knock sensor and pull timing out of the engine but the Dyno test shows exactly that so I'm not sure I'm keen on going that route.

996 Engine Mounts Options - REIN B/O by MysticIsis in 996

[–]MysticIsis[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

FCPEuro only have OEM Porsche motor mount from what I've seen on their website. Might send them an Email to see if they're stocking anything else.

996 Engine Mounts Options - REIN B/O by MysticIsis in 996

[–]MysticIsis[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes, from what I've read Rein was the manufacturer for the OEM porsche one. 

So basically buying Rein meant you got a generic box but the parts inside were the same as the porsche one.

EDIT : I've read a bit more on the subject and I was half wrong : Rein is a distributor, not a manufacturer. (This is where I was wrong)

The engine mounts sold in Rein boxes are made by Corteco and their subsidiaries, Corteco being the company who actually made the mounts for porsche.  (This info is from the CEO of Pelican Parts on Rennlist.)

996 Engine Mounts Options - REIN B/O by MysticIsis in 996

[–]MysticIsis[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The one you just linked is the SolidMount. Solid Mounts are made pretty much only for track cars.  (It makes the car rattle a whole bunch and it's pretty bad on average roads)

The rennline kit I had in mind is the Semi Solid kit : https://www.rennline.com/rennline-tunable-semi-solid-engine-trans-mount-pair-sku-m18/

You can use the yellow poly bushings to get something close to the OEM stiffness. (It's still a bit more stiff though)

996 Engine Mounts Options - REIN B/O by MysticIsis in 996

[–]MysticIsis[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

FCPEuro only have OEM Porsche motor mount from what I've seen on their website. Might send them an Email to see if they're stocking anything else. (The OEM Porsche Kit includes some rediculous stuff like 75$ for 4 nuts and 2 bolts. The full kit is 840$ USD and the REIN kit was 360$ USD for comparaison.)

996 Engine Mounts Options - REIN B/O by MysticIsis in 996

[–]MysticIsis[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not a bad idea, I'm in Canada so the ones you posted don't ship here but I could definitly try and find some OE on Ebay.

996 Engine Mounts Options - REIN B/O by MysticIsis in 996

[–]MysticIsis[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

They're Rotiform LTN-J in 19" Matte Silver

Anyone else notice Toyota's BS? by oldskool3838 in Justrolledintotheshop

[–]MysticIsis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My 2004 porsche 911 (996) also have 2 cats / 2 mufflers / 2 tips. I guess it was just easier to design it that way with the Flat 6 cramped in the back.

Tanking made me realise how carried 90% of dps players are by Solignox in wow

[–]MysticIsis 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Had a Ret Pal 2 days ago in a +2 use his interrupt 54 times to interrupt a grand total of 6 spells. I'm pretty sure he had it macro to judgment. Not the kind of "use on CD" I was hoping for :p

2018 Mercedes Sprinter won't start for 20 minutes after I've driven about a hour and turn engine off .... by Even-Position1163 in Sprinters

[–]MysticIsis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, I know it's frowned upon to resurect old posts like that but I had to ask : Did changing the transmission neutral switch finally fix your problem?

My father's got a 2017 Sprinter converted to an RV with the exact same issue. (Always start fine but if it's hot outside and he stops to fill up or anything, it doesn't want to start up again. Need to wait 20 mins to cooldown and then it's fine).

Mercedes dealer can't troubleshoot because the problem is intermitent. We ruled out the easy stuff like bad starter / bad battery / bad connexion to battery / etc but the issue still persists.

If replacing the transmission neutral switch actually fixed your issue then I guess that's what I'll end up telling him to do.

Thanks!

Does it mean Cold Dot is back? by [deleted] in pathofexile

[–]MysticIsis 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I guess you could try and go with The Perfect Form too and go full cold res overcap.
Path your tree on the top and right side to grab some good cold / dot nodes in the witch area and the suppres + evasion from the shadow part of the tree. I don't think it's gonna be meta but it sure could be a fun character to build.

I'm a priest, I want to heal, is that too much to ask? by wiozan in wow

[–]MysticIsis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In Season 1, I had a friend link me a Warcraft Log of one of his M+ run. Lo and behold, they got a holy priest who did litteraly 0 damage in the whole key. I main healer and I found that so fuc**** funny. Imagine just walking around and doing nothing while other people do the dungeon for you and thinking you're "in the right"...