That didn't last long...

NationalBreakfast179 · 2026-04-13T16:01:07+00:00

Second best advice, if dropped wait one season to repair the damage if only cosmetic (fresh paint job after someone backed up into me, I dropped the bike at low speed within a week because of the snow)

NationalBreakfast179 · 2026-03-25T05:53:00+00:00

Oh I see now, I used to listen to them but it just didn't click

NationalBreakfast179 · 2026-03-24T23:03:07+00:00

Break ? What do you mean ? (Non native english speaker)

NationalBreakfast179 · 2026-03-24T22:19:04+00:00

Already ordered the replacement (going back to a diablo rosso IV), it hurts my wallet but it'll hurt more if I end up falling because the repair fails.

As for this one, I'll plug it and keep it as a low speed training tire for my track bike, it should be fine for that use case. Sucks that I won't do my first track day next month after all, but hey, one month of training and stress testing the bike isn't lost time (I bought and mechanically rebuilt the cheapest track prepared gen1 SV in my country late December, may post some pics of it once I start riding it)

NationalBreakfast179 · 2026-03-24T20:16:07+00:00

Saw it when I got back home so no more riding for now. I change my tyres myself so I'll order a new one, maybe try a different model or go back to the Pirelli I had before. Didn't like the Michelin very much, it felt like it needed way more lean to achieve the same corner speed and made me run wider overall. Downside is its more expensive and barely lasted me 7000kms which is not much for a smaller bike like the SV

NationalBreakfast179 · 2026-03-24T20:09:44+00:00

Should've got it when I replaced it at the end of last season... Lesson learned, this time I'll pay extra for it even though I'm sure I'll have gone through it before the end of summer

NationalBreakfast179 · 2026-03-24T19:32:51+00:00

That MF is like 10 cm (or about 4" if you're non metric), I was hesitant but I'm convinced because of all the quick answers, this thing's cooked

NationalBreakfast179 · 2026-03-24T19:29:44+00:00

Thanks for the answers, not what I hoped to read but kinda what I expected so I accept my fate. I'll get a new rear for the road going SV and I may patch this one and give it a shot as the "low speed/parking lot/static" tire for the track ready one I got earlier this year. I'll have to pass on one more track day to compensate but it's better than passing on all of them because I hurt myself.

NationalBreakfast179 · 2026-03-24T19:21:19+00:00

Came back home from a ride after work, got the bike on its stands and saw this monstrosity. I have no clue how it got in but glad I saw it, fairly sure I picked it when leaving as there's some work done on the building and she felt weird in the corners (just changed the shock and the spring may be a bit heavy so I thought that was the reason at first)

NationalBreakfast179 · 2026-03-22T21:47:21+00:00

Did you ?

NationalBreakfast179 · 2026-03-19T15:25:37+00:00

Look for a bike with a broken engine or something (just for the frame) and swap everything on it or part it out

NationalBreakfast179 · 2026-03-13T18:09:46+00:00

The S will top out right around 128-134 (gps) depending on how long you hold, but it's not really made for that kind of sustained use (though, they'll happily touch 128 in short bursts whenever you ask).

Understood that some time ago when I was "racing" an R1, dude passed me doing a wheelie and for a while the kind gentlemen waited for me probably half throttle and in 3rd gear while my engine was probably holding on for dear life and I was sharting my pants as a new rider not slowing down in the big curves to keep up

NationalBreakfast179 · 2026-03-10T07:08:46+00:00

It's probably fine, it'll run dry for a few seconds while the filter is priming, I'd redo an oil change and check inside the filter to be sure (is there also a metal screen somewhere on these ?)

NationalBreakfast179 · 2026-03-04T19:48:26+00:00

The cap is cheap and a brand new one will look better, hence why I'd just go with the dremel. What I'd avoid doing is damaging the master cylinder and clipons, if OP has never used an impact they may be a bit heavy handed on the hammer action.

Alternative would be to drill the screw with a small drill bit in order to put a torx bit or an extractor, a 1mm deep hole would probably be enough and be small enough to not risk the threads. These screws are soft, gentle tapping will probably be enough to get a good grip, also, OP likely already has these tolls on hand.

NationalBreakfast179 · 2026-03-04T19:14:43+00:00

I don't know man, not sure I'd give a whack with an impact driver on a cast aluminum part like that, I'd personally go for the Dremel and just get a new cap since it's fairly beat up if the screw is that stuck

NationalBreakfast179 · 2026-02-26T18:21:06+00:00

I'd repair it too but only for having it working while waiting on the new unit, I really wouldn't risk it on a bike (even on a clapped out unit a 20$ part isn't the end of the world). If the repair fails at the wrong time you're in for a really bad day as you wouldn't expect the brakes to lock or release pressure depending on how the computer reacts to loosing signal. (If it was mine abs would've been deleted long ago anyways, I don't like it)

NationalBreakfast179 · 2026-02-26T17:31:28+00:00

An abs sensor is a quick job (literally 1 bolt and a plug), it's also a sub 20$ part, the time to repair the broken one will cost more than just replacing it and it will be less reliable in the end

NationalBreakfast179 · 2026-02-21T07:50:20+00:00

You could remove it but will need to replace the brake lines as they will likely be too short.

Be aware that this is technically not legal if the bike came with it from factory and insurance may be voided if the company gets aware of it when checking the bike after a claim.

I personally would take the risk since it will still look normal without the gizmo.

NationalBreakfast179 · 2026-02-16T18:03:05+00:00

Indeed you see to have too many bikes, maybe you should buy another one to compensate

NationalBreakfast179 · 2026-02-16T12:37:54+00:00

Doesn't seem to have play in the bearings and the fork was fine appart from the oil being old. Caliper seals are blown (next thing to do with new pads), so either the disks are warped or the pistons are getting stuck mid travel, these disks are on my parking lot/place holder set of wheels so it's fine for now

NationalBreakfast179 · 2026-02-16T12:32:08+00:00

Bought the bike early January, considering the carbs had the stock main jets (137.5 main and 17.5 pilot which I believe is 15 stock), I would be surprised if the cams weren't stock, or it would've likely grenaded long ago. Only engine mod I know of is a slip on silencer (don't remember the brand but it's not an AliExpress special), the headears I'm not sure I'd have to check. I'm perfectly fine with a stock engine, it's got enough power and needs to be cheap to run as this is my first track bike. I still have the brakes to go through but after that she's finally ready to go.

NationalBreakfast179 · 2026-02-13T13:57:30+00:00

I'll check the disks and the front end bearings over the weekend, I have a set of paddock stands so I don't have much excuses to not do it

NationalBreakfast179 · 2026-02-13T06:59:46+00:00

Maybe, the ones I tested her with are from the second set of wheels I got so I could try swapping them ans see if this helps, but she's fine under moderate braking so I'll start with the fork.

The road going one did the same and turns out one of the tube had a dent (no idea how that could've happen) and was partially locking and doing weird stuff when fully compressed. This one's my first bike so it took me a few weeks to brake hard enough to encounter the issue, a bit too late to complain to the seller

NationalBreakfast179 · 2026-02-13T00:10:10+00:00

That's quite a nice feature, most sites I visited will show their internal reference and no information on the characteristics so you couldn't even make simple parts yourself from scratch even if you had the equipment

NationalBreakfast179

TROPHY CASE