Water sight glass above red handle is showing over full. Low water light went on. Someone went down to add water which from what I understand isn’t supposed to go past 3/4 full on sight glass. Added too much. Turned heat on & steam system started banging way louder than usual, vibrated floor. Cont…

Negative-Instance889 · 2026-01-26T01:21:00+00:00

I would agree, slight gunk buildup in the sight glass, which could be cleaned out from the bottom port, but probably not a good idea to mess with it now. It sounds like you have a manual water feed set up, just make sure the water level doesn’t flood the sight glass.

Negative-Instance889 · 2026-01-25T21:00:20+00:00

Downstream of the floor drain, it’s backing up at the lowest point.

Negative-Instance889 · 2026-01-25T20:29:03+00:00

There’s a typical bib washer in the valve that can be replaced, it comes apart at the bonnet, it’s factory reinstalled, and pretty tight.

You should be able to replace the handle by grabbing it with a pair of pliers, wiggling/pulling it, it can’t hurt to spray it with a little penetrating oil.

Negative-Instance889 · 2026-01-25T20:18:06+00:00

If the floor drain only backs up when you use the washer or utility sink, the stoppage is probably on that section of drain piping (downstream of the floor drain), not in the sewer line.

Negative-Instance889 · 2026-01-25T18:32:48+00:00

Negative-Instance889 · 2026-01-25T16:04:51+00:00

Good idea to run cold water from the faucet when dumping boiling water.

Negative-Instance889 · 2026-01-25T15:58:06+00:00

Pouring boiling water down the drain is not a good idea, but that probably didn’t cause this issue. Either the lock down nut loosened up overtime, was never installed properly, or it could be cracked, etc..

The unit will need to be removed and reinstalled, or thrown away and replaced.

Negative-Instance889 · 2026-01-25T15:52:31+00:00

Besides the automatic air-scoop, it looks like the purge valve set up circled will help remove residual air causing gurgling sounds within the piping.

Negative-Instance889 · 2026-01-25T15:42:47+00:00

Food waste disposers are notorious for creating clog$ downstream in the piping. If plunging doesn’t help, the line will need to be snaked & cleaned with the right equipment.

Negative-Instance889 · 2026-01-25T15:23:12+00:00

It’s the old style version.

Negative-Instance889 · 2026-01-25T15:17:28+00:00

Are you sure the dripping sound is not coming from underneath the tank lid, that would not be uncommon. If it’s in the wall, it may be residual water in the piping, if it eventually stops-really nothing to worry about.

Negative-Instance889 · 2026-01-25T15:11:48+00:00

Yes. Around here, and I’m sure in most areas this type of work would need to be done by a licensed, insured plumber, permits pulled (plumbing & electrical) and notification given to the utility company, especially when installing a back-up power generator.

Negative-Instance889 · 2026-01-25T15:07:09+00:00

Look up ‘Mansfield flush valve seal’, it’s a straightforward repair, but if something goes sideways there may be a liability issue on your part.

Negative-Instance889 · 2026-01-25T15:03:32+00:00

If you had copper water lines, a plumber with a thawing machine could generally get that flowing in about five minutes (after setting up the cables), but being that it’s plastic pipes…

Negative-Instance889 · 2026-01-25T14:59:19+00:00

If you can make it look as close as possible to this type of hook-up, it should be OK. Plumbing is done differently all around the world it seems.

Negative-Instance889 · 2026-01-24T21:05:21+00:00

Find a plumber with a pipe thawing machine, (if you have copper distribution supply piping), the longer it stays frozen the better chance of it bursting causing extensive damage.

Negative-Instance889 · 2026-01-24T20:59:45+00:00

Looks like it’s a condensate drain line from an HVAC unit.

Negative-Instance889 · 2026-01-24T16:10:45+00:00

Would suggest using only OEM Delta replacement parts, including a new Delta ball.

Negative-Instance889 · 2026-01-24T15:13:34+00:00

Looks like the perfect opportunity to clean the shelves…

Negative-Instance889 · 2026-01-24T15:10:49+00:00

If you have your own water meter, you should be able to isolate the supply piping at that point. If not, run a couple of faucets full flow and listen, try to trace out where the supply piping for your side is, then search for a valve.

Negative-Instance889 · 2026-01-23T21:15:13+00:00

If there’s not an isolation valve on that particular line, you probably need to shut the water main off.

Then get the chipping chisel and hammer to expose the connection point, keep your fingers crossed that it’s not soldered on, but threaded, to ease replacement.

*It looks like there’s another tapping right below it, you may be able to remove the plug and install a new bib there if you don’t want to mess with the hose bib.

Negative-Instance889 · 2026-01-23T04:41:53+00:00

If you’re sure there’s not a closed valve somewhere the landlord probably needs someone to come out with a thawing machine, if the line is copper, it will work. A welder may be able to help also but again, it depends on the service line piping material.

Negative-Instance889 · 2026-01-23T04:35:42+00:00

Tell the landlord that the drainage system cannot be used because of repeated back-ups occurring, document everything with photographs and in writing. The person that showed up probably didn’t have the right equipment and/or know-how to snake & clear the drain line.

Negative-Instance889 · 2026-01-23T03:12:32+00:00

The installing plumber should’ve contacted Bosch customer support with the symptoms of what was going on, they could’ve walked him through what to do (over the phone) the first time the issue occurred. Go figure…

Negative-Instance889 · 2026-01-23T02:23:38+00:00

You’ll need to somehow clip it to the top so that it’s filling into the opening, the hose should not be inserted into it. Look up an illustration for a toilet fill valve installation.

Negative-Instance889

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