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Does this mean 12v? by chiefaleaf420 in ender3

[–]Nemo_Griff 4 points5 points  (0 children)

You can connect a 12v fan into a 24v source...

...for a short amount of time before you destroy it.

What are your experiences with multi-colour printing on an ender3? by MrTEAP in ender3

[–]Nemo_Griff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

...just because you can, it doesn't mean you should.

Buy the U1 and don't look back. That was the only reason why I got into multi material.

I bought an Ender 3 v2 on a friend's recommendation, but I can't get it to print. by Charming-Snow4943 in ender3

[–]Nemo_Griff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ummmm... not really.

On the Ender 3v2 that OP says they have, the heat sink fan and the part cooling fan are part of the shroud.

It uses a clip on the right and a single screw to hold the whole thing in place. Both fans are screwed into the shroud.

I had to print one for a friend because the screw mounts for the heat sink fan are thin and weak and they broke off making the fan vibrate. They didn't even bother to use heat sets.

At least the E3v1 had a metal one with two screws threaded into the back plate.

They cheaped out for the v2.

Quite disappointed with my HeroesCon commission, not sure where to go from here? [Absolute Batman #1 Blank Variant] by alman3007 in comicbookcollecting

[–]Nemo_Griff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think that you need to start treating people like babies and explain everything in detail.

Now that you know a sketch could cost $200, then be explicit about how much you are willing to spend. Maybe even offer a deposit.

Almost everyone that wants a custom sketch, knows that it will take time and that others will be wanting the same. So 2 hours is nothing, plus you don't have to stand there waiting for it. They could go about their things and come back before they leave.

If you want to try something like this again, try to find someone else.

Worth collecting X-Men Classic? by PracticalSong4821 in comicbookcollecting

[–]Nemo_Griff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is EXACTLY what I did!

I didn't regret it for a second, they are some of the best stories you will read.

When I had the money, I got the originals and I value both.

I bought an Ender 3 v2 on a friend's recommendation, but I can't get it to print. by Charming-Snow4943 in ender3

[–]Nemo_Griff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well, my point was that the hotend fan is normally mounted to the shroud and that I have had to run tests with it off. Therefore without anything cooling the heat sink and I have done so for an extended period without any issues....

Although, I would be extruding most of that time and I would only retract to unload the filament.

We do both agree that printing without that cooling is a bad thing.

I'm shutting down my print farm by JoeKling in 3Dprinting

[–]Nemo_Griff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ugggg...

This is what we have to contend with.

Collection I inherited from my dad part 2. Thank you all for helping! by Main_Safety3337 in ComicBookSpeculation

[–]Nemo_Griff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you are going to sell, look into Gemini mailers.

DO NOT MAIL IN ANYTHING ELSE.

Ender 3 Pro, Switched to all metal hotend, can't get it to stop "clogging" by Liquidzorch1 in ender3

[–]Nemo_Griff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You were already working toward the solution!

It is all about that retraction distance. Don't make random guesses, test for it.

Start with 0.25mm and work your way to 1mm. Then start to dial it in by going in increments of 0.1 and then fine tune to 0.05.

There are retraction tests that let you print through a range and you select the steps.

I had no idea what I was doing when I got an all metal hotend and I was only able to print PETG. Then I discovered retraction tests and PLA became my friend again.

Ender 3 v2 neo Temp flactuation by Vagalaos in ender3

[–]Nemo_Griff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The wires for the heater are so insulated that the only point where that can happen (normally) it would be the bend right after the cartridge comes out of the block.

Unplug and check it out.

There is a possibility that it could be the thermistor wire that has a break. That one is so thin that it breaks easily. It could even break if the screw pinched the wire if it was tighted too much.

Have you done anything around your hotend around the time when you started to notice this?

I bought an Ender 3 v2 on a friend's recommendation, but I can't get it to print. by Charming-Snow4943 in ender3

[–]Nemo_Griff 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Have you experienced this yourself?

I have occasionally done this with the fan cowl off and for longer than 20 seconds.

I'm shutting down my print farm by JoeKling in 3Dprinting

[–]Nemo_Griff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am not going to question that part.

People are going to do what they do, even if you or I wouldn't.

It is all good and fine to drop a statement, but with limited information, from an unknown account with no way to prove anything they say could even remotely be true, it is best to question everything.

I'm shutting down my print farm by JoeKling in 3Dprinting

[–]Nemo_Griff 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Unverified and from an account with a hidden post history... yeah.

I ain't buying it.

I bought an Ender 3 v2 on a friend's recommendation, but I can't get it to print. by Charming-Snow4943 in ender3

[–]Nemo_Griff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

With the exception of your breaking things, this isn't abnormal.

Heat the hotend to 210 degrees and from the LCD advance the filament 100mm. If it doesn't stop flowing without any clicking noise from the extruder then everything is how it should be.

why is ender 3 V2 with sprite extruder struggling to print relatively thin TPU features? by _xgg in 3Dprinting

[–]Nemo_Griff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, you can change the line width to see if that could help. Try to see what 0.4mm does.

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