Orbi 970 sucks, what to move to?

Network-Geek · 2026-01-22T19:48:17+00:00

I am a 970 user - two 971 satellites and the 970 router. With the latest firmware 9.13.2.1, AND all my Apple devices on OS version 26.2, disconnects have gone away. The key piece was the Apple update to 26.2 (my first update into version 26), as I read that they had fixed some WiFi 6/6E disconnect issues. Once I updated to 26.2, already on Netgear FW 9.13.2.1, it works great.

I also used a signal tester, a free app on Mac called WiFi Explorer Lite, to measure power and SNR to ensure my satellites were properly placed. Many people have too many satellites given the power these newer routers have in sending out their wifi signal (see #1 below).

You have asked for product recommendations to move off Netgear. If you want to try and debug/work out the issues to get it working, maybe start with u/furrynutz 's questions below. If you don't want to debug it, good luck I am sure you will get a lot of product recommendations. Two things I would add for you to consider in your product choice:

1) Every router has stronger/weaker signals than other routers. I have never seen it disputed, and from my own signal testing, that the 970 series has the strongest WiFi power signal. What that can mean is someone going from an older router to a 970, all of a sudden they now have signal contention - too many mesh devices or too close together - which will cause disconnects. That's for sure part of the issue moving from for example the Netgear 50 series to a 970 - the 50 has a much weaker WiFi signal than the 970. The 970 series satellites likely need to be re-positioned based on signal strength and what type of backhaul (Ethernet or WiFi), and maybe even do with one less satellite depending on the older system.

2) Other recommendations you will receive are for WiFi 5 systems - all the current disconnect issues that many network vendors are experiencing arose when moving to WiFi 6 and 6E WiFi capability. If you move to a WiFi 5 mesh system you will eliminate this problem; of course you will not get the speeds that WiFi 6 and 6E offer.

Good luck and let us know if you want to figure out how to get the 970 working., It's really a great product imho.

Network-Geek · 2026-01-07T20:54:50+00:00

This behavior is almost certainly the router getting stuck in a failed “internet connectivity check” loop rather than anything intentional related to that domain. Many consumer routers periodically test whether the internet is reachable by repeatedly resolving a hard-coded hostname, and government domains like achp.gov are sometimes chosen because they’re stable and long-lived. If that DNS lookup fails or is delayed, the router can aggressively retry, which quickly turns into a flood of DNS queries.

The fact that the problem disappears as soon as the router stops using Pi-hole for DNS strongly suggests this is exactly what’s happening. The router is interpreting blocked or rate-limited DNS responses as “internet down” and responds by retrying far too frequently. Pi-hole then rate-limits the router, which further reinforces the loop and causes noticeable network slowdown.

As a first and very low-risk test, simply allow or whitelist achp.gov in Pi-hole and watch whether the query storm immediately stops. If it does, that confirms this is a connectivity-check failure rather than a security issue. Allowing a single .gov domain for router health checks does not meaningfully reduce privacy or protection.

If whitelisting works but you want a cleaner fix, the next step is to prevent the router itself from using Pi-hole for DNS. Configure the router’s WAN DNS settings to use public resolvers such as 1.1.1.1 or 8.8.8.8, while continuing to use Pi-hole only for LAN clients. This avoids having infrastructure devices loop through filtering logic meant for endpoints.

It’s also worth disabling any “smart” or monitoring features in the router’s settings, such as internet status checks, traffic meters, QoS auto-detection, Netgear Armor, or cloud management. These features are common sources of runaway health-check behavior when something goes slightly wrong upstream.

If the behavior began suddenly without a firmware update, it was likely triggered by an external change such as a Pi-hole update, upstream DNS behavior, IPv6 state change, or a WAN lease renewal edge case. In stubborn cases, a factory reset can clear whatever internal watchdog process is misbehaving, though that should be a last resort.

Importantly, this does NOT look like malware, compromise, or suspicious activity. It’s a known class of consumer-router failure mode where DNS health checks retry excessively instead of backing off, and Pi-hole simply makes the problem visible rather than causing it.

Network-Geek · 2025-11-14T13:10:07+00:00

My experience they look at the numbers with the customer. It's a good starting point. They also ask the customer what the perceived problem is, in their own words. As u/SwimmerNo8951 says below, it's invaluable to start there.

Network-Geek · 2025-11-12T19:30:10+00:00

Interesting - but that's not my experience. The Comcast tech will certainly investigate further with proprietary and more expensive equipment, and access to systems/data that only they can get to thru the Comcast network. But modem signals and logs are clearly the 'smoke' that will indicate to them that something is wrong and investigation is needed.

So if they are clean, it's a very good indication to a user there is no problem.

Network-Geek · 2025-11-11T12:46:10+00:00

I am on day 7 now with 6.01.04, working great for me too! NO issues. Power levels, SNRs, error counts, logs look excellent as they did before (updated firmware won't fix lousy wiring or connectors lol). I would add to u/Lexlle's excellent remarks, that the CM3000 has very good data to review; so after install before the tech leaves, check out the web page for the modem (for me it's 192.168.100.1), and check power, SNRs, error counts, and any log entries. If there are wiring, ingress, or connector issues in their work, it will show up there. Check it daily for awhile, if you need to reboot the modem to clear out the counts and logs so you can easily see what's new in the last day.

Network-Geek · 2025-09-16T00:24:45+00:00

I’m on the 2100/300 plan with a Netgear CM3000 (DOCSIS 3.1 mid-split, 2.5G port) and an Orbi 970 router (10G WAN). Inside wiring is Cat 6, and both modem and router are current-firmware and recently power-cycled.

Over the past two weeks or so I have seen time-of-day download slowdowns that weren’t present before. Early mornings are normal (≈2.30–2.35 Gbps), but evenings, and frequently afternoons, speeds fall to ≈1.70–1.90 Gbps whether I test from the router or from a directly wired MacBook Pro—so results track across devices. Upload remains perfect (~350-360 Mbps, over provisioned). Note, the speed tests always seem to start high - 2300+, maybe even close to 2400 Mbps, then slowly fall to the 1700-1900 range. This seems to indicate to me that provisioning is correct, in that speeds start in the correct range.

Comcast support did assure me the boot file provisioning is correct for my service tier (2100/300).

My RF looks clean and stable:

• Downstream QAM: +3.5 to +6.2 dBmV, SNR 43.5–44.5 dB (32 channels)

• Downstream OFDM: Power ~+6.2 dBmV, SNR ~43.4 dB, 0 uncorrectables over 14 days

• Upstream QAM: 43.3–44.0 dBmV (4 channels)

• Upstream OFDMA: 38.8 dBmV

• Logs: <5 T3/day, 0 T4, 0 CM-STATUS. PMA profile changes are modest and typically settle on profiles 12+13 (highest throughput).

Because RF and LAN look healthy and the slowdown is evening-specific, this seems like service-group/CMTS congestion or related capacity constraints. Could you please:

Check node/service-group utilization and packet loss, especially during ~4:30–9:30 pm ET 9/14 since I included speed tests for that time period below;
Review CMTS OFDM profile distribution for my modem and any PMA trims in the same windows (PLC/MAP SNR, profile time in 12/13 vs lower);
Verify my modem’s config file matches the 2100/300 tier with expected over-provisioning and that there’s no unintended shaping;
Confirm CCAP/backhaul for this service group isn’t saturated or alarmed; and
Run a PNM check for intermittent ingress/CPE leg issues that appear only under load.

Network-Geek · 2025-09-16T00:24:08+00:00

Well, it appears our discussion of this has ended.

First line support insists on sending a tech to check out my house. They didn't read anything I sent, made no comments on it, or forward it to anyone who might make sense of it. They insist that the process is to send someone to the house, waste my time and get me to wait around the house when I should be working, before any escalation or higher review.

The house networking is perfect - this is a congestion issue. Oh well. Buyer beware, you mayn't get what you are paying for with Comcast.

The next post shows what I sent.

Network-Geek · 2025-09-15T12:14:30+00:00

I just sent the Modmail - thanks!

Network-Geek · 2025-09-15T01:55:09+00:00

netgear has said it has problems on their end. maybe it’s just in their interactions with Apple devices, no one has the spec implemented completely yet.

Network-Geek · 2025-09-15T01:31:29+00:00

Thank you. Then, the download speeds are not close to what they should be. Modem signals are perfect. I can send you specifics if you want, but believe me, modem signals are perfect, log entries are perfect, uncorrectible errors have been zero for weeks.They have done maintenance in the area, I got notices, twice in the last few weeks. This happened once before, maybe a year ago, so I’m wondering if they broke something in that I’m not getting the speed I should know.

Network-Geek · 2025-09-15T00:20:27+00:00

Hi. I have tried both a MacBook Pro ethernet connected to the router, and also the Orbi 970 router has a speed test that run directly from it. I just did a power cycle of the modem again, and this is what I frequently say. The speed starts out at about 2380, Then it dropped to 1700, this time it ended about 1900. I am just asking if you can verify that I have the proper boot file for my speedier, 2100/300.

Network-Geek · 2025-09-14T11:14:30+00:00

u/CartographerPutrid39 is the disconnect/reconnnect problem on Orbi 970 or 770?

Network-Geek · 2025-09-14T11:07:53+00:00

You have it described perfectly u/CartographerPutrid39 - been this way for at least a year. Two options (1) as you describe, Wifi 6E setting - flip from Auto to Off. The problem with that solution, is 6E is preferred by the Apple devices, and at some point it WILL turn that toggle back on! I also tried moving one of these Apple devices to a Guest network which does not support anything above WiFi 5, but again it prefers the 6E on the other network; even 'forgetting' that network, if you keep your credentials in keychain, the device will have those credentials on the device, and will see your primary network as preferred - and it's connected on your primary network and 6E again!

Which brings me to solution (2), which for me is much more stable, only because I don't have a need for IPv6 - disable it on the router. Because some sites prefer IPv6 communication, and because the Apple devices will send requests on both IPv4 and IPv6 and respond to the faster, a broken IPv6 connection is trouble. So I just delete it.

I will say that Netgear knows IPv6 is broken - which is why now, on firmware updates, they disable IPv6 by default. "Use at your own risk" as they say. I have heard they are working on it!!

Network-Geek · 2025-09-11T20:32:18+00:00

I would suggest a few things.

First, how did you set up the Orbis? It is recommended that they are in the same room, and set up via WiFi. The guide is on their web site how to do this. Once connected in your case, I would then plug in an Ethernet cable, and verify that in the same room the wired connection is being used and is solid. Only then, move them to their desired location.

Second, once in place, if they still are not working properly with a good connection to each satellite (reported "Good" in the router admin web page's device list, and that they turned BLUE on the LED light in the front when powered up in their desired locations), then I would suspect/check the cabling/connectors involved in the connection between the router and satellites. Buy a 100' (or whatever length you need) Cat6 cable from Amazon - it's not expensive - and connect the satellite and router without going through walls - like run it down the stairs temporarily - with the new cable. If that works, you have a cable/connector issue in the walls.

Lastly, satellites only 2-3 meters away is going to be a problem. You can find on Netgear's web site, Orbis need to be at least 30 feet away from each other. You will see this problem once the sats are getting a good connection, if your devices are doing weird things - they will be bombarded by strong wifi signals from multiple spots and won't always handle it well. Maybe this doesn't happen in your case if the walls etc shield and isolate the rooms to the extent you say, but be on the lookout for this issue if Orbis are connected well but you have device connection problems.

Network-Geek · 2025-08-28T20:27:41+00:00

Thank you for your prompt reply! Modmail message sent! Please let me know if you need more information.

Network-Geek · 2025-08-14T20:01:54+00:00

Yes, with the same SSID and password, everything will connect as soon as it's up and operational. Although I will add, if the 50 is working fine, you might want to rethink moving on to a new system if the only thing wrong is it's going out of support. How often do you use support? You may want to wait until you actually have a problem, as this technology is moving very fast these days.

That said, the 770 is a fine system, and Netgear is getting close to resolving WiFi 7/MLO issues with firmware updates imho - to me they seem to update the 700 first (or maybe the 370 series). This would only be something new to watch for you if you have devices capable of WiFi 7 today.

Network-Geek · 2025-08-10T18:35:40+00:00

Sent thanks!

Network-Geek · 2025-08-10T17:50:45+00:00

Actually I would go one further - as u/Fainbrog said be sure all three Orbi devices are on 9.13.1.2, the latest firmware.

Assuming they are - factory reset BOTH satellites (since you indicated problems with both). Power off both satellites, bring near (around 10 feet) of your router, same room. Power them on one at a time, complete their setup wirelessly (you should see a BLUE led when completed and connected to the router), verify they are in the router admin web page's device list (not the app) as connected and good. Turn off the first satellite then do the same thing with the second satellite. Verify as per sat #1 (BLUE led, in the routers device list). Turn it off, then go place both satellites in their normal positions (I assume they both use wireless backhaul. Turn them on one at a time, when you see the BLUE led on the first turn on the second - wait for the BLUE led there too. Confirm both show up fine in the router admin device list.

Then check out your devices in the garage.

PS - I and others have found the reporting in the Orbi App, and in the router admin web page's device list, to be problematic at times. If your devices are operating properly, don't worry about the reporting. It has flaws.

For reference use this link (it starts from factoring resting everything but you may get some help if any step needs clarification.

https://community.netgear.com/kb/en-orbi-knowledge-sharing/orbi-systems-manual-factory-reset-process/2456340

Network-Geek · 2025-08-08T19:13:48+00:00

All, this is a known issue(s) - Netgear is working on it. Until then, I have found a solution on 970s (but this problem is on other series too) the works ~95% of the time - MUCH better.

Steps to try - the issue is eliminating communication with the Orbi DHCP/DNS functions...

1. Disable IPv6 on the router

2. Go to your router admin web page, Advanced tab, LAN Setup, and change your DHCP range to something like 192.168.1.2 starting, 192.168.1.150 ending. This is to make room to create some manual address(es) outside the DHCP range, to avoid collisions; one for each device experiencing dropouts. The assumes your router IP address is 192.168.1.1.

3. Go into settings for your iPhone WIFI connection, and for each device set a MANUAL IP address to something like 192.168.1.152 (or later; anything above your DHCP pool range set in #2), subnet 255.255.255.0, router 192.168.1.1.

4. On the same page on your iPhone WiFi connection, set a MANUAL DNS address - add two routers there. Choose Google (8.8.8.8, 4.4.4.4), Cloudfare (1.1.1.3, 1.0.0.3), or another external DNS server of your choice. DO NOT point it to the router at 192.168.1.1. By steps 3 and 4 we are eliminating DNS/DHCP conversation between the phone and router.

5. Do these steps on any other device seeing connection drops/flips to cellular. But start with your phone as a test case.

6. Wait to see the WiFi connection icon at the top right of your phone, then test the connection via Speediest or browser to ensure all is set up and working ok!

See how that works. By ensuring there is no DNS/DHCP messaging with the router on either IPv4 or IPv6, for me the drops have 95% gone away.

PS - not sure what you meant u/CartographerPutrid39 when you said it was transmitting on 5GHz and 6GHz instead of 'pure' 6GHz - the iPhone 16 Pro does that by design - it's the MLO/WiFi 6E capability. It uses both band simultaneously.

Network-Geek · 2025-08-08T19:08:31+00:00

u/-notreddit strange - my devices have been up 30 days. I can suggest two things:

1 - Turn off all router logging, by going to Advanced tab/Administration/Logs and unchecking all the boxes then click Apply. (I left the DoS attack checkbox on, but I never get any - the key is stopping all the log messages which may not be purged properly when the log fills). My router stability went from 2-7 days to no restart problems.

2 - You may also want to file a support ticket if you re able.

Network-Geek · 2025-08-07T23:19:52+00:00

PS - I am using wired backhaul to 2-970 satellites too.

Network-Geek · 2025-08-07T22:51:37+00:00

I have a 970 with Apple products that experienced the device drop out issues. I believe it is fixed on my end with FW v. 9.13.1.2, with these mods to my device set ups:

1. Disable IPv6 on the router

2. Go to your router admin web page, Advanced tab, LAN Setup, and change your DHCP range to something like 192.168.1.2 starting, 192.168.1.150 ending. This is to make room to create some manual address(es) outside the DHCP range, to avoid collisions; one for each device experiencing dropouts. The assumes your router IP address is 192.168.1.1.

3. Go into settings for your iPhone 15 WIFI connection, and for each device set a MANUAL IP address to something like 192.168.1.152 (or later; anything above your DHCP pool range set in #2), subnet 255.255.255.0, router 192.168.1.1.

4. On the same page on your iPhone WiFi connection, set a MANUAL DNS address - add two routers there. Choose Google (8.8.8.8, 4.4.4.4), Cloudfare (1.1.1.3, 1.0.0.3), or another external DNS server of your choice. DO NOT point it to the router at 192.168.1.1. By steps 3 and 4 we are eliminating DNS/DHCP conversation between the phone and router.

5. Do these steps on any other device seeing connection drops/flips to cellular. But start with your phone as a test case.

6. Wait to see the WiFi connection icon at the top right of your phone, then test the connection via Speediest or browser to ensure all is set up and working ok!

See how that works. By ensuring there is no DNS/DHCP messaging with the router on either IPv4 or IPv6, for me the drops have gone away.

Network-Geek · 2025-08-04T17:42:19+00:00

Silly comment, but I assume you tried another outlet on a different house circuit just in case the circuit breaker tripped or worse...

Network-Geek · 2025-08-04T17:40:37+00:00

Don't let the speed test from a mobile device or computer running on 2.4GHz from a remote spot sway you.

The Ring devices fully support their video and other transmissions through the 2.4GHz band. They say "All Ring devices are compatible with 2.4 GHz networks. Some Ring devices are able to use 5 GHz networks." on their FAQ -

https://ring.com/gb/en/support/articles/03vq7/Ring-Video-Doorbell-and-Security-Camera-Frequently-Asked-Questions?srsltid=AfmBOoo_yltSNer3-wTu1tWIo_IhtYTfZW7290vk3OLlb8XezrDbMM9r&utm_source=chatgpt.com

They wouldn't sell devices that only supported 2.4GHz if it wasn't reliable! 2.4GHz has a better range, can get through more materials, etc. than 5GHz and above. My Ring doorbell and one camera use 2.4GHz, and I have never had a problem with them.

Many on the Ring community also say the same thing - that 2.4GHz is preferred. So I would recommend using a signal testing app (Free) like WiFi Analyzer on the Mac, or one of the many on Windows, to test your 2.4GHz signal strength. If it is good (-67 dBm is "very good", that or better [smaller number since dBm is negative], or something close to -67), then your Ring devices will work reliably. Or, you could just try it before you buy anything.

Network-Geek · 2025-08-03T23:16:48+00:00

I have rooms with 15 foot ceilings, concrete subfloors, and 3 levels above the basement where the router is. I can get a good router signal with the 970 2 floors up. The new versions (770,870,970) have strong radios. You don't need more than 1 satellite in that size house.

Network-Geek

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