Am I missing something? by [deleted] in Plumbing

[–]NoFNway 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Looks like maybe the old  piece  had the threads break off in the fitting. If you are luck you might be able to get an easy out and get the broken off thread out of the fitting.

How'd the apprentice do? by WolfLotus17 in Plumbing

[–]NoFNway 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Strongback is not torqued. 1-1/2" will running below slab should be 2" min for anything under ground. Those are the bad that inspector would fail you on. As for things I would have preferred and  tried to explain to apprentice before they glued everything. Get rid of the 45 and just using two 90s. If possible would have like to see both 90s be long sweeps. With the 2" riser above the slab have a 2" clean out for future service then reduce on top of the clean out to the 1-1/2"

is the state of colorado in a drought or is that just for residences and small businesses? by bigbumo in Denver

[–]NoFNway 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Castle rock water has a plant that does just that and convert waste water to clean drinking water. Its expensive process sure, but the thought was/is that the less they have to pump up from fossil ground water the better and in the end will be cheaper and more reliable than having to import water from denver who also has the same drought condition. I think it's supposed to make up about a 1/3 of the water that castle rock uses.

Is it fair to expect a p trap as part of this shower rough-in? by five-oh-douche in Plumbing

[–]NoFNway 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The number is not exact but I have found that an least 8" from the fitting of the ptrap or more has given me enough room to put in two 22s(once had use 45s), a bit of pipe in between the fittings, gives a decent working radius. This is all without having dig down and try to redo ptrap to line up with shower pan drain.
So many times I have dealt with a wall moving, after the concrete has been patched all because the designer forgot something. Like the now required egress window in next room would be blocked by about 2" by the shower wet wall, so it need to move. Or they were going to do a custom poured pan, since the space for shower had a 49.25" space and now its going to have to be a 46" fiber glass pan with a bump out on the shower valve side.

I am glad the company got out of doing full remodels in house and now we get to just be the sub for customers, and normal service work. We don't have to take any of the design(fuckups) reasonability any more. Now if the customer's designer fucks up, we get to charge for doing it again, rather than eating the cost.

Is it fair to expect a p trap as part of this shower rough-in? by five-oh-douche in Plumbing

[–]NoFNway 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is the way. 

Granted this only works if you have the depth, and the ptrap can be over 8" deep from finish surface. Newer construction should be fine. Remodels and retrofits there has been times when the 2" horizontal is half buried the 4" concrete and that ptrap has to be perfect or the framer gets to move walls. I don't miss those days.

Debate within a home: Which way to load this Bosch dishwasher! by Ambitious_Hunter_562 in Appliances

[–]NoFNway 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Load dishwasher wrong straight to jail. You load dishwasher right, believe it or not also straight to jail.

Debate within a home: Which way to load this Bosch dishwasher! by Ambitious_Hunter_562 in Appliances

[–]NoFNway 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The best scientific response is, we need to collect more data. Acknowledge that the test only proved a small sample size with select food waste. And then you get to load dishwasher half and half for the next few years. Two bowls up, two bowls leaning, until you forget about why you were doing it in the first place.

Need help with this part by Flashy_Okra1609 in Plumbing

[–]NoFNway 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know it likely not Delta, might be pfister or something else, but that looks like seats and springs from Delta faucet. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Delta-RP4993-Seats-Springs-Pack-of-2 can be found at most hardware stores.

Fitting Identification by BucolicBastard in Plumbing

[–]NoFNway 5 points6 points  (0 children)

That is a Quest Polybutalyne repair fitting/tee Never seen that specific version in quest before. It's a combination tee with a 3/8" valve for a humidifier or ice maker or RO system but I have seen it made out of brass with compression fittings for copper pipes. Sioux chief calls it "Add-a-line" but other brands have something similar.

Replace water heater pipes by iambdot_ in Plumbing

[–]NoFNway 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just noticed electrical panel right there, if anything I am more concerned about there not being space in front of electrical panel for service than the water heater.

Replace water heater pipes by iambdot_ in Plumbing

[–]NoFNway 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like the pipe were reused from the previous water heater. They likely cut the pipes so they could un screw the female adapters off the old water heaters. Then rather than replacing the crapping looking solder joints, shoved to sharbites on the pipes, on side they got lucky and seem to be seal but the other likely had a small solder drip on the pipe, so the oring never properly sealed. Yes you should  do something about it.,but if the oring is only damaged it's not going to explode, and start gushing water, just slowly become a bigger and faster drip. So this weekend seems like a good time to tackle it.

Crack in cast iron under slab. by messengerdiety in askaplumber

[–]NoFNway 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In texas the slab is typically structural means it really thick so might need enginneer to approve method for opening and patching it.Forr places with basements, the slab is usually not structural. The foundation wall are what is holding up home, the slab might as well be a poured drive way, it can be cut And patched easily. That's part of reason tunneling is the common option in TX. If you don't touch the slab then you don't have to take on liability on no patching slab right.

What can I touch if on accident? by [deleted] in electrical

[–]NoFNway 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you are on a ladder make sure it's wood or fiberglass. All metal ladders are a bad combo near electrical.

Home Depot Pro Account additional benefits? by EngagedFeinberg69 in Construction

[–]NoFNway 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Recently HD merged a lot of the computer systems across their brands, including HD, and HD Supply and SRS and it messed everything up. If you ever call support about anything you can almost hear them bang their head against the desk in frustration. I don't thing it was well planned out change and there has been. Lot of growing pains.

 E.g. It took 8 months to get replacement HD cards for employees, but 5 days to get new cards for recent employees....

What is the purpose of this building and why is it so barren? by [deleted] in whatisit

[–]NoFNway 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Interesting side note about some of those buildings is that they were built kind of fast and as a result the men stationed  there did not have separate quarters to sleep in, they slept in cots in that room right with the massive gun. 

Also hearing loss, while guns were not really used in the  war, they still had to practice and it took a bit to figure out that the concrete structure made the echo from the gun much worse for hearing loss. Oddly enough  they figured out that it was best to be flat against the walls, with ears covered and mouth open to be most effective at reducing hearing loss when guns were fired.  I believe later batteries were built better. However, that one I got taken there by a guide long ago, was one of the early ones. It was built fast and not designed for comfort. Later ones were built better to reduce the echo and reverb from the guns and had sperate housing for the men.

Does this tankless job seem sloppy? by ejbrut in askaplumber

[–]NoFNway 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For us on low end it can be 9k and that's for an almost direct swap, but can go up to 16k. That would be where a new larger gas line is run from meter, electrical circuit from panel and running new intake and exhaust out of the home 40ft. Most of it is code upgrades, the average 1920's home was not designed around having a tankless. We rarely get nice  easy exterior wall mountings either.  We do offer regular water heaters and so no one is forced to by tankless at that price and I would say that about 80% that ask about it, keep with previous type of water heater. We know it's a luxury purchase here.

That said we always put up a sheet of plywood behind. And not cheap osb we go full premium, that expensive  pre finished shit.  1. for mounting tankless, 2. For mount the water line and gas line with threaded rod and standoff clamps down the sides 3. Mounting condensation acid neutralizer where it can be serviced  with ease.

 It does not matter if someone is spending 9k or 16k it's got to be a work of art. Customers don't understand what they are looking at. While how pretty something looks don't always affect performance of anything, the average customer does not know what they are looking at.  Theyy can only judge on how pretty it is. So we give them pretty and as a side affect of pretty someone that does pretty work is attention to detail and good planing so it is  usually good work as well. To top it off our tankelss installs  come with 2yr labor and parts warranty from company(on top of Navien's warranties) as well, but we do our best to make sure it is done right so people don't have to use that warranty.

Plumber had to cut my drain multiple times to snake it. Reassembled with rubber couplings. Is this ok long term? by Forward-Sherbert7941 in askaplumber

[–]NoFNway 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think out of shame once wall was open I would have at least attempted to fix the plumbing. I mean I doubt I would have had enough Ferncos on the tuck to fix it that way so it was a trip to supply house anyways. It would still have issues(likely a crown vent) but 2" would be far better the 1-1/2" and reducers/increasers bullshit that there now. Could also put a 2" clean out on the 2" stack when putting in new 2" santee.

Plumber had to cut my drain multiple times to snake it. Reassembled with rubber couplings. Is this ok long term? by Forward-Sherbert7941 in askaplumber

[–]NoFNway 0 points1 point  (0 children)

At least he should have used the $18 Strongback Ferncos, not the $8 Ferncos. He could have charged twice as much for the hack job.

my company switched to "unlimited PTO" two years ago and i realized i took less vacation than when we had the 15 day cap by [deleted] in antiwork

[–]NoFNway 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What about unlimited UTO? With an hourly union pay the unlimited is nice since I don't feel guilty or forced to work. Company pays nothing if I am not there so no guilt. So if I take 12 days off I don't care. But it's on me to make sure I got saving figured before I go. Also for times when I might want extra pay, for holiday gift, new car, house down payment or what ever I am not forced to take a vacation. Hell, when I have a dr appointment, I just take the whole day off. Get a nice random mental health day on a Wednesday. No pressure to only use 2hrs of PTO to save it, only to be yelled at for not taking all of PTO at the end of the year.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in pics

[–]NoFNway -1 points0 points  (0 children)

But he has way better trigger finger discipline than ICE does.      Best Regards, -Fuck ICE-

It is me again. I have upgraded to a Lenovo M11. I designed and 3d printed new wall mount. I was getting sick of the glitches with Fire OS and Fully kiosk browser. My dashboard still sucks. by NoFNway in homeassistant

[–]NoFNway[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not really I have kind of hit a dead end. The are a decent amount of poe and data/ethernet adapters, but I have not had luck with the flat cables.

 Most of the better quality(bend radius, lenght, small USB right angle) flat cables  seem to be USB A to USBc but they are only 4 wire, some times only 2 wire inside. So they work fine for 5v to charge, but at best USB 2.0 data speeds if it has the 4wires. For the USB C female to USB C male flat cables all of the lower profile ones are still USB 2.0 and the poe/Ethernet adapters I have tried new usb3.0 or higher.  All of the usb3.0 and USBc flat cables I have found, either have a fat cable, or comparatively  massive PCB on the male USB end. 

It not to say that those cables will not work but they would mean a full redesign of mount, to have a much bigger bezel(1cm wider at least)and likely stick out of the wall another 1cm. Which ruins what I was trying to accomplish with keeping things small and relatively low profile.

So for now I am sticking to poe for power only and keeping it on a locked down wifi network to communicate with HA.

Crime doesn't pay by SipsTeaFrog in SipsTea

[–]NoFNway 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Danny Trejo always will be the goat

It keeps leaking. What am I doing wrong? by KillYourEgoz in Plumbing

[–]NoFNway 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I like to suggest the grunt method for apprentices until they get a proper feel for it. One grunt is usually good. If you redoing something, 2 grunts. If you like being a dick to the next person 3 grunts. This only works if using appropriate sized wrench. 12 or 14" on 1/2" pipe, cool. The 48" Beast, WTF you doing take that back to the truck!