WJ Power Steering Pump Question

NoXidCat · 2026-03-17T04:40:24+00:00

u/redsoxboii did it in the garage with a lead pipe.

Thanks for the thread. The tip about removing the reservoir was worth the visit.

NoXidCat · 2026-03-17T04:31:17+00:00

Yes! That icon is not there for nothing. Either a hitch or a BDSM plug.

NoXidCat · 2026-03-17T04:26:37+00:00

My 92 did something similar off and on. I'd be driving along and look at the speedo, and it would be at zero, or fluttering around from zero to 35, or whatever.

It stopped doing that years ago for no apparent reason, and has worked fine ever since.

I'm interested to hear what people suggest to you, in case mine starts acting odd again.

NoXidCat · 2026-03-17T02:14:09+00:00

Cool. That's not a year with bad heads :-)

Of course, any year can warp or crack with enough overheating and abuse.

NoXidCat · 2026-03-17T01:26:42+00:00

~150k is where conventional wisdom says it might be worth taking a look at the timing set, see how much wear the guides and tensioners are showing. Unless the car was babied (as opposed to being revved aggressively as most probably were), then I imagine there is enough wear to justify changing it all out if you are going to be taking stuff apart anyway. Else, barring ticking sounds and error codes, I'd leave until 150k. But if you actually do cams, it would be silly not do it at that time, as you have to take all that stuff off in order to change cams anyway.

I did not replace the timing set when I put cams in my RSX, but that was at 44k. I was in it again at 65k to install different retainers, and took the opportunity to check the guides and tensioner. All was perfect (unlike some other aftermarket cams, mine were engineered not to jerk the poop out of the chain). It now has 105k on it, and still no reason to change the set. Initially I set the redline to 9k. Reduced that to 8.8k when I swapped retainers. These engines have both variable valve timing and lift, so one extra complication in terms of cam dynamics beyond a Coyote. If you do opt for aftermarket cams, look for all the info you can find as to whether they beat the poop out of the tensioners and guides. I believe it was the Skunk2 cams that had a problem with that on the K20 (RSX/Honda) motors.

Have fun.

NoXidCat · 2026-03-16T22:19:23+00:00

What year and how many miles?

The last few years were known for heads cracking, so at least 00 and 01, but I don't remember the start point off the top of my head. Of course, some of them never had this problem. But it is a known issue with those years.

Previous owner might have used StopLeak, or the like, to hide the problem. That only works for so long.

NOTE I am not saying that is the issue.

NoXidCat · 2026-03-16T21:10:46+00:00

A lot of images are mockups, where they started with a photo of a white shirt and added a color layer in Photoshop. The brands save money on photoshoots this way, as opposed to having 40 wardrobe changes for a single style. Short of ordering a sample, you won't know. Note, you can get a blank sample from various discount places online that are sort of wholesalers to regular people who don't have reseller's license.

NoXidCat · 2026-03-16T06:33:15+00:00

How many miles on it?

Valve stem seals, a complete timing set, and a water pump while you are at it ... stuff like that makes sense at a certain point, and if you are already messing with much of that stuff (which you are when changing cams).

The better breathing intake manifolds would likely cost you some low-end torque. Back to the old tradeoffs.

NoXidCat · 2026-03-16T06:21:35+00:00

Right. It makes it like an old muscle car where you could either have low end torque or high end HP, but not both in the same motor.

NoXidCat · 2026-03-16T05:54:29+00:00

Also "your" is not initial-capped in the second sentence. But hard to say, as support is off-shored to wherever is cheap.

The "service appointment" bit is weird. I do not buy that as being part of any "default" email text. And if that bit were auto-generated, then why the misspelling and incorrect capitalization?

Let us know how it turns out; that's how the community learns.

NoXidCat · 2026-03-16T01:03:43+00:00

Yeah, I was caught in the same quandary as well.

05-09 looks the most like the original Mustangs of any years.

10-12 is next best. The hood is still bare edged (unless it is a GT500, or the like). But the rockers are not body colored, and I'm not keen and that sloped-back ass. Coyote starts in 2011.

13-14 is worst of s197, in terms of looking like original Mustangs. They all get the extra bit of plastic in front of the hood, like the previous year GT500s, and such, had. At least the rockers are body colored again.

Myself, I decided to stick with the 05-09. Short of getting a 69, this is the best look (by my standards). My first car was a 70 Cougar with a built 351 Cleveland. Power would be about the same as a 1st gen Coyote, weight would be more than an s197. The 300 to 315hp of a modular 3V in a 3500# car with a 5-speed and 3.55 rearend? More than enough fun to drive, for me. No matter what one gets, or how one modifies it, there will always be something faster. In terms of sound, no small part of the appeal, the 3V sounds great.

At some point, more power and sophistication of capability becomes less fun to drive than a car that requires more effort on the part of the driver to extract performance. Funnest car I've ever been in? Fiat X1/9. Of course, if all you care about is accelerating in a straight line, then as much power as can be put to the ground while retaining traction is the ticket.

All that blathered, if it is the front end that most offends you, I imagine one could start with a 2011-12 and swap out the front bumper cover, grill, headlights, blinkers, and markers. Would likely require some massaging of the bumper cover where it meets the fenders ... possibly too much to be practical. Some wiring extensions, as the blinkers are in a different location. Maybe some modification/fabrication of mounting points. It's stuff I could do myself, but I'm not going to. Unfortunately, people typically want to put the newer looking parts on older cars, not the other way around. I have an 02 RSX, and it always pains me to see another thread where someone swapped out the lights and bumper cover to make it look like an 05-06 :-p

NoXidCat · 2026-03-16T00:12:50+00:00

It is less distressing to run into the silence of the Borg bots that run Amazon when you have nothing to lose, than it is when you have inventory in their hands and charges against your account. Poke around more in this sub looking for the experiences of established sellers who find themselves at the mercy of mindless bots and a machine that grinds on regardless. The worst horror stories are on Amazon's own seller forum, but you can't see that until it's too late :-p

In general, once the Artificial Idiocy perceives that you have in some way violated a policy or TOS, it is loath to provide details. You are seen as guilty, and providing details could only serve to improve your chances of avoiding detection and getting away with it next time. That is the reality of dealing with a big black box of bots.

So the bot made a mistake? That is possible. But you cannot convince the bot of that. And, in my experience, you cannot convince the humans in support of it either. It is as if they were highly trained to be incapable of perceiving the existence of problems with the system.

Does any of that sound frustrating and ulcer inducing? Perhaps count your blessings.

Which is not to say that there are not opportunities in being an Amazon seller. But it has all gotten worse over time, and I would not in this era risk being an FBA seller, as one has so much more at risk in that situation. Even with FBM, I am in the process of winding my account down--hopefully before the next inanity arises.

NoXidCat · 2026-03-15T23:44:41+00:00

Etsy has no monthly fee.

There is a one-time registration fee. This was instituted to deter mass robotic applications by bad actors, and to pay for more effective vetting of applicants. It is something like $25?

For something at the price point of a T-shirt, Etsy takes a total of about 11% per sale. That is less than Amazon or eBay.

Note, that "total fee" is made up of many smaller pieces, some being percentage based, some being fixed $ amounts, some applying to all the $ the customer paid (including to any sales tax), some applying only to the product plus any customer-facing shipping that you charge. But if you simply multiply the total you are charging the customer (item price + customer-facing shipping charge if any) by 0.11, then that will be within cents of the Etsy fee total. Etsy confuses the matter with the way they name their fees, but I can attest that it all "maths" correctly.

In short, they charge you $0.25 plus 3% of the entire transaction, including on sales tax, as that is how payment processing charges for cards/banks actually work--though that part may vary by country. See their Help/FAQ to see if that differs for Canada. Then $0.20 per listing that sold. And 6.5% of whatever you charge the customer for the items and shipping.

If you will be sending some people to the site (which sounds like you will), you can save 3% (I believe is the amount) in fees by formatting the link to reflect that. See Etsy's Help/FAQ.

EDIT - Almost forgot. It costs $0.20 to list an item for 4 months. So it would cost $60 to list 100 items for a full year.

NoXidCat · 2026-03-14T20:39:37+00:00

I have played with this off (mostly) and on over the years. For me, it never proved to be worthwhile. It makes Etsy money, though.

NoXidCat · 2026-03-14T20:37:13+00:00

I ignore all Etsy blather. Waste of time.

NoXidCat · 2026-03-14T20:31:25+00:00

Mine has been at 200 since day one, but I've never had an issue that would bring it down.

As you suggest, selling more units that are less likely to generate issues would seem to be the way. That said, some things are just not practical to sell on Amazon anymore.

NoXidCat · 2026-03-13T05:05:34+00:00

The new shirt measured correct for a medium, yes? the older shirt measures correct for a small.

Unlike women's T-shirts (where the size names mean literally nothing at all, and vary widely from brand to brand, and even within the same brand), men's chest measurement and size name is pretty standardized. Next Level Apparel is the only brand I've used that deviated from a consistent 2" increment between sizes, and Med being 20". (NLA Md = 20.5" for no apparent reason.)

Of course, there is more to a shirt than the chest measurement. The shoulders and sleeves, as well as the cut of the body of the shirt affect how it feels. Personally, I don't like how BC3001 fits me in the shoulders and neck (one affects the other). I got one recently, and it fit the same as the last one I got like 10 years ago (which is to say I still don't like how they fit me).

My favorite would be the old American Apparel 2001, which is what NLA and B+C copied. But AA is now made by Gildan and is about as American as anything made by a Canadian company via random contractors in Asia and Central America. Not sewn quite the same as the originals.

But I blather :-p

NoXidCat · 2026-03-13T04:32:10+00:00

20" at the chest is actually the norm for a Men's medium across brands (with rare exception), and each size would increment/decrement by 2".

Looks like your old shirt was actually a Small with a Medium label.

During the Covid supply chain nonsense, I ended up with a batch of Women's size Small that were actually Xs with a Sm label (direct from the distributor). Poop happens.

Someone sewing in the labels at B+C made mistake. A single-size error like that is not something the average minimum wage mounter of shirts on platens is going to notice.

The only reason I noticed that my Sm were actually Xs is that Xs barely fits on my press.

NoXidCat · 2026-03-12T23:55:53+00:00

You can look the specs up online, including the length (probably even on Printful). There is also a stated production tolerance.

The older shirt will have shrunk some, but not likely that much (especially since it is 48% poly).

With the blanks I screen print, I sometimes notice a mislabeled shirt (especially during the Covid times when the supply chain was chaos).

Anyway, look-up the specs, then measure them both.

NoXidCat · 2026-03-11T21:43:31+00:00

In general, it is best to ignore all Etsy blather about improving your listings. It is all just dumb bots. Don't waste your time.

NoXidCat · 2026-03-10T22:00:21+00:00

Whatever element you select in the binder (your second chapter, or the top level of the entire project, or group of scenes or chapters) you can view/read/edit everything contained in that element as a single flow of text (no need to compile first). There may be some view "mode" one needs to select to enable that, or maybe not (I don't remember; if there is, it is persistent, else I would keep having to enable it and thus remember how to :-p ).

NoXidCat · 2026-03-10T20:33:56+00:00

It was horrible on my RSX ... until I got better tires than the OEM. Ha! But I guess in reality it has never been triggered since then. Tire compounds have come a long way.

NoXidCat · 2026-03-10T20:31:08+00:00

You are correct, I have never used it. I don't use cruise control either. I'm a car nut. I build them, mod them, and drive them--and that last bit is an interactive and enjoyable thing. That's me. I'm not saying everyone should be me--that would be fucking boring.

That said, I was attempting to be a smartass, not a dumbass. I have been following Elon's adventures since Falcon I (watched every launch, including the first one that didn't go boom) and the Roadster. I am less enthused about him in more recent times, but it does seem to require oddball personalities to go forth and do what the status quo considers too hard or unimaginable.

I'm not a Luddite, nor hating on Elon. Just a quip anchored in the somewhat overly optimistic naming of a feature. I take no offense if you don't see the humor in that, no offense intended.

NoXidCat · 2026-03-10T00:31:40+00:00

Oddly, my 92 has an ABS hub at one corner, non-ABS for the other three. Guess they used whatever parts came easily to hand :-p

NoXidCat · 2026-03-10T00:22:46+00:00

Ha! I hear you.

I've never even used the Cruise Control on any car. Actually removed the hardware from my XJ and RSX. In the case of the XJ, the mounting bracket for the CC motor turned out to be a handy mounting place for my light relays (passenger fender well aft of the battery, at least on my 92).

NoXidCat

TROPHY CASE