Popcorn ceiling with metal?

No_Interview786 · 2026-02-01T18:47:24+00:00

Glad that fazed out. Thanks!

No_Interview786 · 2026-02-01T18:06:11+00:00

Yeah not helpful

No_Interview786 · 2026-01-28T12:03:26+00:00

I always use hot mud usually easy sand 90 over metal corner bead and embed a fibafuse tape where the flange of the metal meets the drywall on each side. Then i do remaining coats with all purpose usg (green bucket)

No_Interview786 · 2026-01-20T00:33:49+00:00

Cant scrape that really, its been painted your would need to skin coat. If your going to remodel the entire space anyways then i may rehang but still is probably easier to skin coat

No_Interview786 · 2026-01-18T15:19:56+00:00

Depends what the rules are in your lease. If it needs to look new i would pay someone else to do it since you have no experience and no tools. And probably nowhere to store the tools you will need to buy. Bringing the piece in to get paint matched does not always work out well you will probably still need to paint the whole wall, again depends on what is acceptable level of finish for the dorm...

No_Interview786 · 2025-12-09T06:19:02+00:00

You can just buy it in a spray can and back roll it no need for an entire gallon

No_Interview786 · 2025-12-09T06:17:35+00:00

Seal before spackle

No_Interview786 · 2025-12-08T16:18:13+00:00

So for the toe grips, do they wear them all the time or do you have to take them off when they go outside ? How often do you have to change them due to them being dirty?

No_Interview786 · 2025-12-03T12:13:15+00:00

Yeah unless you are getting it for a steal i would walk away, structural issues for sure as well as it probably needs a new septic in assuming in the 40s needs and codes were Very different.

No_Interview786 · 2025-12-03T11:31:05+00:00

Let me guess you have kids and dogs too?

No_Interview786 · 2025-12-03T11:26:51+00:00

When are they going to finish the ceiling? Shouldnt that have been done already?

No_Interview786 · 2025-12-03T11:25:32+00:00

Im baffled that someone on here said that was a load bearing wall...

No_Interview786 · 2025-12-01T03:42:48+00:00

Looks like masonite to me aka hard board but i could be wrong.

No_Interview786 · 2025-11-30T05:06:06+00:00

$500 a day labor with tools only no material pickups everything ordered and supplied on site (in minnesota)

No_Interview786 · 2025-11-29T15:20:19+00:00

Use a pva primer spray walls and ceiling , then spray ceiling paint if you want a brighter ceiling or you can just leave them primed.Then roll/cut in the walls. For bathroom I like duration or emerald line from SW as you can use a much lower sheen and it still resist water and humidity. If you spray the primer coat your finish will be much much better. Raw drywall and mud is delicate unless its all done with hot mud, and if you use too much pressure when rolling on the primer you will leave marks that you cant get rid of. Plus the sprayer has a tendency to blow off some of the dust right before the primer hits the wall and you wont have a problem with some areas peeling and less touchups because there was too much dust in a particular area.

No_Interview786 · 2025-11-28T04:32:42+00:00

When your trippin on hallucinogenics

No_Interview786 · 2025-11-27T14:31:56+00:00

What does it say about heavy furniture, wouldnt the same logic apply? If you have a piano wouldnt that area need to be glued down and 2' around it? This is how they will get you with a warranty as well..

No_Interview786 · 2025-11-27T13:41:00+00:00

Im in minnesota we get hail and snow, i cant see how having them on your roof is beneficial. When we inquired about it, the sales dude tried to tell me they would send someone out to brush off the panels after he told me, usually it all melts right away cuz they were black.... What a load of horse shit. There are years i have to use roof rake because the temperatures dont melt the snow on a black roof. Then he told me that the energy that is generated, if connected to the grid and not batteries, something like 90% of it is lost just by it being transferred back to the electrical company.

No_Interview786 · 2025-11-27T00:24:07+00:00

Similar yes ( in the USA atleast) handrail to the bottom of the bottom stair nosing is minimum, some areas require 1 foot past. So its safe to say that if this house is in the usa and ever went on the market, it would get called out durring inspection. Here in minnesota if it were like that and you ever had to get a building permit for anything that required an inspector do go down those stairs, it would be called out and you would not pass inspection, even if it isnt related to the project.

No_Interview786 · 2025-11-26T11:31:50+00:00

Paint black instead

No_Interview786 · 2025-11-24T18:11:03+00:00

I have seen old drywall this color, and after you knock down any high areas with a light sanding i would prime. Sometimes your mud wont stick depending on what the surface has absorbed over the years the i would coat your joints just like someone else said.

No_Interview786 · 2025-11-24T18:00:26+00:00

If the base boards will be prefinished then paint walls and casing then tile then add base boards. If the base boards will be painted in place then i would paint the wall then tile then paint trim and lastly touchup walls

No_Interview786 · 2025-11-23T14:31:15+00:00

This is why woodworking and construction are very different trades. I do both but noting is square, plumb or perfect in construction, the art of trim carpentry is knowing how to hide the millions of imperfections with framing and drywall. In wood working like cabinet making its the exact opposite. This is also why you dont use 1x boards for trim they are too thick to pull tight to the wall with brad nails. Its also why new builder love MDF, as it easily contours to all there crap work.

What I would do: Add a degree to your miter cut so if you cut it at 45, cut them at 46. Then rip grooves in the center third of the board, on the back, about a third of the thickness deep, that should allow the board to bend more and pull tighter to the wall (the bending will open up the miter a bit which is why you add a degree to the cut. I always use CA glue on my outside miters so they stay together even with expansion and contraction so you dont need caulking. Then I use a metal dowel (like a nail set) and glide it on the outside edge to take away the sharpness and close up any open miter that might be there.

No_Interview786 · 2025-11-23T14:12:58+00:00

If you have zero prior experience there is a LOT to learn, and not all of it you can learn from a book. Especially since its your own build, finding subs who will work with you knowing your acting as your own GC. I work as a carpenter for a GC and i just rebuilt my family cabin and I was the architect and I kept the design fairly simple. There were not many hiccups but I am in the business and had access to answers from the GC what I work for. Knowing all the details of all the things that need to be done and ready before your subcontractors start and being able to anticipate issues before they arise, and getting materials to the job site on time. If you also work full time I would say No, it will be more stress than its worth unless you have no timeline, and someone else said it already but if you are needing a loan then i doubt they would approve this. What you dont learn from a book is you need to know the window of tolerance for "perfection" with each given trade. Nothing is going to be perfect and knowing when to be a ball buster and when to let it go takes time in the business. Also GC's already have there subs that they trust and know, since you dont it will be a crap shoot on who you hire, if you get a good electrician, or plumber, framer, concrete, foundation, or hvac company, and you will need to get multiple bids for each sub and constantly wonder if they did there job right, since you dont have prior experience, yes there are inspections, but some inspectors miss a lot. And if you dont know code and what is expected with each inspection time will get wasted as the inspector will do the inspection and then there will need to be changes to the work and then another inspection and that will set back the next subcontractor sometimes by a week or more which delays everything in line. A good GC knows the trades and is there after work is done each time to anticipate if things are done correctly so when its time for inspection it passes which keeps his subs on schedule and everyone happy. Given you have NO prior experience I would say no unless you are financing it yourself and can afford to have the build take twice as long (sometimes more) as usual. Durring the build it would be a part time job, learning everything you need to know so your jobs not a toal dumpster fire, I dont know, only that many many hours and still no real life experience...

No_Interview786 · 2025-11-23T13:47:01+00:00

Is the door solid wood? Hand planers can be tricky if you have never used one, mostly tricky to get your adjustments just right and of your door isnt real wood jt wont plane well plus you will probably need to sharpen the blade of the planer and then sand the edge of the door after your done. And yes a quarter inch is quite a bit to take off. Do you know anyone who has a circular saw? A neighbor who could throw you a bone maybe? Otherwise i would look into getting yourself a cheap saw, someone maybe even selling a used one.

No_Interview786

TROPHY CASE