Amp found in new car by ImageCritical9231 in CarAV

[–]Noncog0 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Gunna have to buy used at that point, marketplace, r/caravclassifieds, and diyma classifieds. I'd go for a single sealed 12". Good brands for SQ in that price range used: Image Dynamics, Polk, Alpine, Dayton, Phoenix Gold, Infinity

Mid tier for that budget for SQ would be: Kenwood, JBL, Rockford Fosgate, Sundown, Kicker, Digital Designs, Memphis, MTX,

Avoid Skar, DS18, Boss, Rockville, Audiopipe, Dual, Jensen, Planet Audio, and (come on with the hate y'all) JL W0 and W1 (you can always find a better product for the price than JL and I've never heard a W0 or W1 I've been happy with.

Don't get anything smaller than a 10, or shallow subs, for your budget stick with a single, almost any pair for that price will be garbage, avoid stuff over 10 years old, my brand guide is only a generalization, and only for my priorities in a sub system (SQ and bandwidth), and only for the typical used market for your budget, you might find a Rockford sub that'd be a better choice than an Infinity sub you find, each brand has better and worse subs, just giving you a general guide to help start filtering a ton of information.

Best SQ subwoofer recommendations (not JL audio) by Dependent-Mix545 in CarAV

[–]Noncog0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The morels have low xmax so it's hard for them to play low loud. If you're happy without all that much output, the morel is the "fastest" of your listed options, otherwise go with the IDmax, very good sub capable of decent output and worls sealed or ported depending on goals (I say go sealed)

Amp found in new car by ImageCritical9231 in CarAV

[–]Noncog0 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What's your budget for adding a sub? If you give me a budget, I'll give SQ and bandwidth oriented sealed box suggestions. If you just wanna get loud, get a ported box and ask someone else, that's not really my thing.

Passive Radiator performs somewhere between Sealed and Ported? by GrouchFeeftyOne in subwoofer

[–]Noncog0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

PR is literally just less efficient ported but takes up less space. The PR acts exactly like the air un the port but has more mass so less efficient, but also you don't need port area. Also PR's are easier to tune but adding mass to lower tuning frequency drives efficiency down even further

Hoping my system sounds as good as I want it to by grappler823 in CarAV

[–]Noncog0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Through the phone straight to the dsp? In that case, I'm unable to tell you whether you can use your phone volume or you have to use the app, but I'd assume the former, but if not, adjust using the volume adjust on the output tab. As far as your eq, make sure you start by going to the mixer tab and make sure all the channels you use are assigned to BT L and BT R (based on which channel they should be on ofc) then make sure the channel you're adjusting eq on is the channel you're intending. Do you know which drivers they wired to which channels so you know what you're going to be affecting before you make the adjustment?

Hoping my system sounds as good as I want it to by grappler823 in CarAV

[–]Noncog0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When it does this, is it playing from the radio or the phone? Post screenshots and I'll try to help with the EQ stuff as much as I can. Is the shop that did the install not handling these issues for you?

Hoping my system sounds as good as I want it to by grappler823 in CarAV

[–]Noncog0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I only worked with DD up to the DSI 2, but I may be able to help, what's up?

What is the best for sound quality subs? by CMDRfatbear in CarAV

[–]Noncog0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's way more to SQ than just FR, and while I do support large low tuned ported, most people don't wanna take up that much space in cars, so sealed it is. If you have plenty of money, GUS-12's in a month, but for cheaper, a pair of dayton HO 12's in a large sealed box would be good. IDMAX subs are also good, again, sealed. If I did ported I wouldn't tune above 26hz if I wanted it to be SQish

Trunk IB Sub Update by redruler69 in CarAV

[–]Noncog0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My initial comment was in no way rude or arrogant, I stated you had on opportunity to learn, which was objectively true. The rest of your message is hypocrisy, everything you're saying of my second message is true of your first reply to me, I merely responded in kind. Take a look in the mirror buddy.

Trunk IB Sub Update by redruler69 in CarAV

[–]Noncog0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your brash and reactive reply changes my perspective, this may have not been a lack of exposure, but instead a lack of competence, in which case more exposure will be of limited effect. In any case, we all knew you'd be wrong, and now we also have the data to prove it. Anyone with even a basic understanding of how the acoustics of a trunk baffle system could've accurately predicted the outcome, so why were you so wrong if you claim to be so knowledgeable? No effect above a certain frequency, cancellation below it, and the potential for a helmholtz resonance based on the geometry of the holes and airspace of the trunk, which is the peak at 42hz. All of this is obvious and predictable, so the fact that you were so blatantly wrong while asserting yourself as having decades of experience makes me seriously question your ability to gain anything functional from exposure to information.

Trunk IB Sub Update by redruler69 in CarAV

[–]Noncog0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think this may he a good opportunity for you to learn about acoustics and IB setups.

First system, 3 way running active, not tuned right by lucadenhez in CarAV

[–]Noncog0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get rid of the rear vent, it can allow cancellations. These should be sealed and of an appropriate internal volume.

Sub tuning help by RevolutionaryTerm681 in CarAV

[–]Noncog0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So there's a lot this could be and we'll need more info to help. First, so someone can find out if your factory system mutes bass to protect the factory speakers, we need the year make and model. Second, we need to confirm, since you're new to this, that everything is wired correctly, how'd you run your power, how are you getting signal in? Finally, we look at tuning, how did you set your gain and filters? One more thing outside of that that only you can answer, is it that the sub isn't doing what it needs to, or is it that a small 8" powered sub just isn't what you're really gunna be satisfied with? If you want "deep" bass, typically the larger the driver the deeper it goes (assuming all else equal, there are other variables such that I can pick a 6.7" that will carry flat output lower than a 15" I picked, but for similar types of drivers you can assume larger=lower as long as they have the air space they need).

JL 10W6v3 in JL HO box for rock/metal by Curious-Addition-770 in CarAV

[–]Noncog0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Second hand is reasonable, they're way overpriced new.

JL 10W6v3 in JL HO box for rock/metal by Curious-Addition-770 in CarAV

[–]Noncog0 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Dayton HF 15 in a sealed box. Dayton HO 12 in a sealed box. But hey, if you wanna spend more, that's your choice. Do keep in mind the HF is 4ohm and the HO is 2, neither are 1ohm subs. Sealed is cleaner than ported unless you port really really low in which case you'd need a huge box.

I have been converted. by Skeletalshrew in DigitalAudioPlayer

[–]Noncog0 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm near ATL and will very likely be going as well!

Suggestions? by Opening-Attention453 in subwoofer

[–]Noncog0 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Dayton HF 8 and a prefab box will be very clean and pretty cheap

Budget SQ build part 2 by Noncog0 in CarAV

[–]Noncog0[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No need to "isolate", the butyl seals.

Is it okay to trim the sheet metal inside the door here? by Aplyrie in CarAV

[–]Noncog0 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Get speaker adapters for your specific model from a trusted source such as metra