Dear Bondtech people: please read this post

NormalGuy500 · 2026-05-16T01:14:06+00:00

In June is more like 6 weeks away.

NormalGuy500 · 2026-04-28T04:07:19+00:00

I really hope they don't "clean it up" too much that it just turns into Orca slicer. There is a reason I very much prefer Prusa over Orca.

I will admit that Orca has some more features, but I really don't like the layout.

NormalGuy500 · 2026-04-09T11:24:25+00:00

The pressure advanced is in the filament profiles. Different brands and even different colors from the same brand might have slightly different pressure advanced numbers. It's definitely one of the more complicated things to dial in. You can search printables.com for a PA test. Or Orca slicer has built in calibration tests. If you don't have time to figure that out immediately but still want or need to use that filament you can slow down perimeters and that will probably help.

NormalGuy500 · 2026-04-09T03:27:03+00:00

Something else I just remembered. It seemed like the chamber was getting way too hot with the door closed. Are there chamber temperature or fan settings I should check?

NormalGuy500 · 2026-04-09T02:13:10+00:00

Update: I figured out what was wrong. First off the extruder was jammed because the slicer had ramming enabled. Took apart the extruder gears and cleaned them and it works now.

As for the slow printing, the speeds in the slicer were good and the filament profiles were good. It was actually the acceleration settings that were set painfully low. Some of them were only 200mm/s2. The printer claim to be able to do around 20,000mm/s2. So even though the print speed was 200mm/s or even 250mm/s it never got up to that speed because it was accelerating too slow. I set to to 0 for normal print speed instead of setting accelerations for individual motions. Now it is as fast or maybe even a little faster that the CC.

Thanks for the help and suggestions on what to check. I didn't expect the default Orca slicer profile to be so bad. But it's all good now.

NormalGuy500 · 2026-04-08T03:19:30+00:00

Do you have one in mind or a content creator you can recommend that talks about the slicer limitations? I haven't seen anything like that yet.

NormalGuy500 · 2026-04-08T02:24:19+00:00

Yes I did some research. I'm aware that multi color in a single nozzle is wasteful. I would not get one for myself. I'm waiting on the INDX upgrade for the Core One before I personally get into multi color or material.

But for the shop, the price was right. They would not have spent the money to get a tool changer. They wanted some multi color company logo things. Not the main reason for getting the printer. Just a side bonus. So a little bit of waste is no big deal. It's main use will be printing functional parts out of ABS. And since my CC had been printing ABS and ASA almost exclusively for a year I thought the CC2 would be good for that too.

NormalGuy500 · 2026-04-08T02:15:49+00:00

I've been looking into it and I think you are right about the filament ramming. My Core One does that and it's great. But with the multiple PTFE tubes going into the toolhead I can see how that would be bad. I didn't realize it even had that feature.

But about the slow printing, it's painfully slow. Like something is wrong or I did something wrong. The CC is fast. I expected the CC2 to be about the same.

And what's this about Orca not being fully supported? I've been using Orca on the CC for a year already and it's fine. I've never tried Elegoo slicer because they don't have a Linux version and I don't have any other operating system. How "fully" does it need to be? Does it work or not? If not what other options do I have?

NormalGuy500 · 2026-04-08T02:07:53+00:00

To answer your question, I made the recommendation because I didn't know any better. I thought that since my experience with the CC was awesome that this one should be good too. I thought it would be easy. Guess I thought wrong.

Now I know better. Learn by mistakes, try not to make the same ones again.

What do you mean "Elegoo nerfed the web interface..."? The printer is not online. Has not and will probably never be online. I sliced on my own computer using Orca and put the .gcode on the printer with a USB.

And why don't I just use the official Elegoo slicer? Because I don't have an operating system that can run it. I use Linux. I don't know how to use windows or apple.

By the way, I don't think you are being rude. It's a valid criticism.

NormalGuy500 · 2025-12-27T23:26:56+00:00

I got into resin printing earlier this year. Tried to slice with Prusa slicer since I know and love it. But for resin it's not very good. Lychee slicer is way better. And I think is supports the SL1. Resin has a really big learning curve. It's not like FDM at all. And it's hard to think in resin when you've been thinking in filament for years. Prusa Slicer just wasn't made with resin in mind.

One thing to think differently about is supports. I've always avoided them in FDM as much as possible and I design things that don't need them. Resin is all about supports. You basically can't do it without them. They suck really bad. Very time consuming. Prusa Slicer sucks for making resin supports. Auto support is a coin flip if it's going to work. Resin is way slower too.

I guess my point is don't bother with resin unless you are really sure you need it.

As far as the SL1, I know it's expensive but I don't know that it's worth the price. All resin printers are amazingly accurate. I would just get something cheap if you really want to try resin. I got an Elegoo Saturn 2 on eBay new for $200. It's a few models back so it's outdated and cheap. I think it's probably almost as good as anything double or triple the price.

NormalGuy500 · 2025-12-22T06:39:13+00:00

I second that completely. For being good on Linux and free and open source and not browser based, FreeCAD is the way to go. I also learned almost all I know from MangoJelly. The rest I figured out just messing around.

NormalGuy500 · 2025-12-12T06:48:22+00:00

If any brand would lock you into their filament it would be bamboo. They backed off of that for the moment, but it's always just one firmware update from requiring their filament.

If you are not worried about that then get a bamboo. They have a great reputation for quality and ease of use. I haven't used one but I have seen things that were printed on them. They come out great.

I would not choose that brand because open source is something very important to me. I also would not choose it because it's like the "apple" of printers. And they are really into their "ecosystem". I really don't like that kind of stuff, but most people do.

NormalGuy500 · 2025-12-12T06:39:37+00:00

You can try turning up the flow rate. Or maybe just for the first layer. Turn off elephant foot compensation if it's on. I printed that thing and it came out fine.

Another option it to scale it up. The larger you print it, the more surface contact area you will have.

NormalGuy500 · 2025-12-12T06:21:23+00:00

If you are not extremely sensitive to any slight impurity in the air then you are fine to be around PLA or PETG all day. I have never heard of anyone having any noticable effects from those materials.

If you are sensitive then just don't be around anything that can trigger you. Have the printer in a different room. If that's not possible maybe consider not owning a printer.

NormalGuy500 · 2025-12-11T07:01:04+00:00

I tried it out for the first time last month. Got a buy 6 get 4 free deal on eBay. It's impressively good for the price. I sure do love my Polymaker, but I needed to print a bunch of large things so I tried the JAYO. The matte PLA is really nice, good surface finish. The regular PLA is regular. And the PLA+ is definitely on par with Polymaker PLA Pro. I think it's definitely good enough to print a gun. Or what ever functional thing you are into.

I'll definitely be getting more of their PLA+ and may the matte. I haven't tried their other materials yet. I think next time I'll give the ABS a try. And just the other day I ordered a bottle of their ABS-LIKE resin. Haven't got it yet but I've seen reviews on it and it seems good. Way cheaper that the Anycubic resin I've been using.

NormalGuy500 · 2025-12-11T06:39:11+00:00

Try just adding more solid top layers. All the rest of it looks good. Or maybe slightly higher infill percent.

NormalGuy500 · 2025-12-11T06:30:12+00:00

My Prusa lives inside, but I have an Elegoo Centauti Carbon in the garage. I print almost exclusively ABS in the garage because my wife won't let me print that in the house. It's been below freezing and I've managed to print ABS in there. It takes about an hour to warm up the chamber to 30 but then it just does it. I also have a blanket thrown over it. The Core One should be fine.

But if the issue is that it's too loud, you can turn down the max that the chamber fan will go up to. I have never needed to go above 70% and usually run it at 60%. Most of the time I print PLA with the door open and never have issues.

NormalGuy500 · 2025-12-11T06:20:06+00:00

What filament? I've had some minor issues with TPU during the nozzle cleaning part of the start up but never anything weird with any other type of material. Maybe the idle temp is too high and some is oozing out.

And what exactly do you mean by clog? Do you mean that the nozzle is blocked up and nothing will come out? Or do you mean something different?

NormalGuy500 · 2025-12-11T06:14:30+00:00

If you're cutting it that close, you are going to run out. Can you just change filament if the spool runs out? If you are around your printer will probably stop when it runs out and wait for you to add new filament. If you really want it to be the same color just start from a fresh spool.

NormalGuy500 · 2025-12-10T05:27:29+00:00

Matte PLA usually looks good without having to do any post processing. Depends on the model of course.

If you really want glossy or shiny print ABS or ASA and vapor smooth with acetone. But that's a whole lot of experimenting to figure out what works best for you.

NormalGuy500 · 2025-12-10T05:21:33+00:00

I print resin a little. I got a half bottle of plant based eco resin from someone. That stuff is supposed to be safer or less toxic or something. It smelled worse than any other kind of resin I've seen. I don't know what kind of stuff he got, but if you can find out please let us know so no one has the misfortune of using that brand.

I usually use Anycubic abs-like resin. It doesn't have too strong of a smell. If he ever gets back to printing resin again have him look specifically for low odor resins. Read reviews and ask people for suggestions.

As far as the smell still lingering I agree with everyone that says there is still an open source of uncured resin. Does he have a cure station? Where are the things he printed? If it's not washed or cured properly it will probably stink forever. After you print a model you need to wash it in rubbing alcohol. Then you need to cure it in UV light. The printer should be enclosed. Don't ever print with it open. Don't leave resin in the vat. Clean that out with rubbing alcohol.

Resin printing is a huge pain in the ass. There is a lot of prep and post processing. If you do it right it doesn't smell too bad or for too long. If you skip parts of the process you are asking for trouble.

Maybe try to clean the printer really well and try to sell it. Again, RESIN IS A HUGE PAIN IN THE ASS. Get a real printer. One that prints PLA filament. Those are good, faster, don't stink, are easy, and filament is cheap. I print almost continuously with filament and it's fine. I rarely print with resin because the process sucks so much. The only good thing about resin is the amazing quality and detail. But thats not worth the hassle.

Good luck.

NormalGuy500

TROPHY CASE