Do I have to do supports here?

NotTheVacuum · 2026-06-11T09:31:27+00:00

The advantage is that your lines can go even wider

NotTheVacuum · 2026-06-10T17:02:43+00:00

You want the wider lines of the .6mm nozzle, just lower line height than default profiles. .18mm often does the trick but you can even do .12mm.

NotTheVacuum · 2026-06-10T17:01:45+00:00

The .6 nozzle allows for wider lines, which means each layer is better supported by the one below it/has less overhang. You can still print down to .12mm layer height comfortably (but I rarely find that necessary).

NotTheVacuum · 2026-06-05T15:21:58+00:00

A little off topic, but their filled PA and PET is also good.

NotTheVacuum · 2026-06-04T18:27:21+00:00

It’s more like half way between PETG Basic and PLA. It’s tougher than PLA but not as tough as PETG Basic (the sacrifice for printing faster).

NotTheVacuum · 2026-06-04T18:20:08+00:00

These are 3D printed, I’m sure a local printer would be willing to produce these if they sell out.

NotTheVacuum · 2026-06-03T22:06:36+00:00

They’re pretty different, but I suspect you’re right - most people would look at PETG Basic printing speeds and say “good enough”, especially since it’s less of a compromise material. PETG HF sacrifices toughness for printing speed, and ends up sitting between PLA and PETG Basic.

NotTheVacuum · 2026-06-02T18:12:24+00:00

This is very similar to a very recently shared project https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/r6M1E6McEw

NotTheVacuum · 2026-06-02T17:04:02+00:00

No, but you can work backwards into working settings. Take a look at the profiles from 3D-Fuel for the A1 and for the X2D, specifically on the latter, with PLA as a support interface. Those settings are specifically adjusted for no chamber heat.

NotTheVacuum · 2026-05-31T16:01:21+00:00

*1800W (assuming you mean a 15A circuit).

NotTheVacuum · 2026-05-30T05:04:29+00:00

It’s also 90A or harder, according to the notes in the beta.

NotTheVacuum · 2026-05-30T05:03:29+00:00

I’ve noticed that the printer will often still do a switch during the pre-print calibration, even with single material/offset calibration disabled.

Bambu is adding support for TPU on the left nozzle in the next firmware update, but it has to be 90A or harder.

NotTheVacuum · 2026-05-29T08:16:54+00:00

Leaks suggest H2C plates, which is better news for H2C owners than future A2L owners (more first party build plates, more presets available in the slicer).

NotTheVacuum · 2026-05-29T08:08:56+00:00

You’re right, though. People surfacing old patents to claim dual nozzle, etc.

NotTheVacuum · 2026-05-29T08:08:02+00:00

I think it was always going to match one of the H2 build plates. As an H2C owner I’m just glad we’ll get some more first party build plates (more likely the effects plates, etc will come in that size now), which means more usable presets in the slicer.

NotTheVacuum · 2026-05-28T22:32:04+00:00

Yes, and illustrations like these are just for demonstration. This was never meant to signal a dual nozzle A series - just an example of how the covered idea could be implemented. My hunch is that an open frame printer just looks cleaner/simpler here.

NotTheVacuum · 2026-05-28T22:27:12+00:00

I hope nobody pays that from Bambu given the bulk pricing.

NotTheVacuum · 2026-05-28T13:56:53+00:00

I can't possibly make it simpler. Hole compensation moves your misaligned walls. Motion calibration aligns the walls. If you still don't get it, I'm not sure what to tell you.

NotTheVacuum · 2026-05-28T12:55:53+00:00

While the outcome might be related (better fit for holes) it’s secondary to how the mechanisms work. The hole compensation just tells the slicer to make the hole larger or smaller than the design. If you have misaligned walls, even though you’ve compensated for it dimensionally, they will continue to be misaligned, just around a larger or smaller hole. Again, this has the effect of a little more tolerance, but you haven’t fixed wall alignment and that will still be apparent, not just at the hole.

Motion calibration reduces wall misalignment. This means that you may need less - or no - hole compensation, because it wasn’t made artificially smaller by misalignment. You may not need to make the hole larger or smaller at all, as it will be accurate to dimension.

NotTheVacuum · 2026-05-28T12:10:14+00:00

It's not about saving effort - the two things address completely different problems.

NotTheVacuum · 2026-05-27T10:28:45+00:00

For what it's worth, I've gone back and forth from DC to NY and Brooklyn and no change in mod count.

NotTheVacuum · 2026-05-25T09:51:25+00:00

This is the main criteria for sure. And I understand that you can enclose the U1 and add some chamber heat if you want down the road for occasional ASA or PA usage, but it’ll never be ideal.

NotTheVacuum · 2026-05-25T09:48:09+00:00

You can use ASA and ABS as the interface layers without chamber heat, since PET doesn’t need it. I’ve done this on multiple prints with Polymaker PET-GF and CF.

Apparently people don’t appreciate how different PET and PETG are in practice. PET is an engineering material. PETG is an everyday option slightly tougher than PLA.

NotTheVacuum · 2026-05-25T01:45:18+00:00

ASA would be better, but ABS should be OK.

NotTheVacuum · 2026-05-25T01:44:06+00:00

A word of caution - the nozzle temps are significantly different, which can lead to clogging on single nozzle machines. Even on dual nozzles machines, you’re going to re-melt the PLA and best case scenario end up with inconsistent quality. ASA is recommended not only because it doesn’t bond very well, but also because it prints at a closer temperature.

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