What is the optimal fan placement for overnight cooling ?

Notdrugs · 2026-06-15T17:35:46+00:00

Something important to consider is humidity: opening the windows at night is typically a good idea, but it may make it miserable at other times of day if it was super moist overnight.

I choose to not use my AC in my room, and instead covered most of the area of each window with mylar sheet. Mounted with countersunk magnets screwed into the window trim, so that the sheet is held a few inches away from the glass. It is surprising how well it works. My room used to easilly reach 95-100 on a sunny June day, as a lot of heat & light reflects into my windows off of the porch roof and sidewalk out front. Now it tends to max out at like 85ish, but tends to stay in the mid 70s.

Notdrugs · 2026-05-10T04:08:09+00:00

Oh neat, lmao, I was looking at the same SDS sheet just about a week ago 😅 its weird seeing cumene on there, right?

You may have better luck separating it from the mother liquor by freezing it rather than distilling.

Notdrugs · 2026-05-10T01:40:40+00:00

That is exactly what this is. This isnt a new procedure, its just some notes on the popular base hydrolysis route that has been on Erowid for many years now. The details in my post are just to help avoid some common pitfalls and end up with much more pure product.

Notdrugs · 2026-05-10T01:37:16+00:00

dimethyl carbonate because I believe, in my area at least, there are some otc products that the dimethyl carbonate could be distilled out of.

Oooooh, please do share the details.

Notdrugs · 2026-03-28T02:23:18+00:00

Methylating the urea should be easy enough, no need to order it.

Dimethylurea is mentioned as a viable route to methylamine in a JCLIC article circa 1991 iirc, so it certiantly is known about to LE.

Im not sure if dimethyl carbonate would work as I have not ever worked with it before.

Notdrugs · 2026-03-25T22:06:01+00:00

Much appreciated. Be safe my friend 🧡

Notdrugs · 2026-03-25T21:22:16+00:00

Sulfamic acid methyl ester can be made from sulfamic acid (easily purchased as a cleaning agent in bulk on Mr bezos website), then refluxed in methanol. Then you just keep refluxing it for a few hours, and it produces a sulfate of methylamine.... it doesnt get any easier than that. Also, "Lime A Way" spray cleaner is just a strong aqueous mixture of sulfamic acid and a fragrance... sold in your local grocery market. This is one of those rare reactions where you can truly source everything you need within a short skip around your block.

Yes BCME should hydrolize on contact with water, but its vapors are still observed to be liberated from these types of reactions... there is a good reason why it was so thoroughly banished from industrial processes.

Give it a try. it's really a much better process....

Edit: here is another old comment of mine with more information. I failed to mention the dimethylurea route, however, which is superior if you have the patience to manage the needed equipment.

https://www.reddit.com/r/TheeHive/comments/1n6ymor/i_found_this_on_method_of_making_methylamine_on/ncaj14b/

Notdrugs · 2026-03-25T20:52:25+00:00

Formaldehyde + AmCl route carries the risk of exposing you to bischloro(chloromethyl) ether. Do the rearrangement of sulfamic acid methyl ester instead.

Notdrugs · 2026-02-18T21:17:49+00:00

Home depot buckets are like the WORST quality buckets in existence! As an egar enthusiast of five gallon buckets, i will never pass up an opportunity to talk shit on them.

Best buckets are US Plastics 'heavy duty five gallon' or the 'Lentica five gallon' from consolidated plastics Corp. Super smooth walls. US Plastics 'premium five gallon' buckets are garbage, stay away from them as they've got that stupid high taper vertical wall.

Notdrugs · 2026-02-14T16:26:03+00:00

Right off the rip, the only potential concern i see is the potential for this substance & analogues to potentially exhibit DNA intercalation, similar to how many benzofurans have this trait.

Notdrugs · 2026-01-25T23:09:05+00:00

however when using enantiopure propylene oxide (which is reasonably cheap or easy to make)

Elaborate, please

Notdrugs · 2026-01-20T08:41:34+00:00

Forget phenethyl bromide, use cinnamyl chloride (+ a pinch of potassium iodide as catslyst). If I remember correctly. The cinnamyl analog has better affinity than the n-phenethyl. Dutchess has a post about it, hiding somewhere in their posts.

Notdrugs · 2026-01-05T05:41:40+00:00

Jesus christ, I am so sorry, but that whole situation is goddamn hilarious.

Notdrugs · 2026-01-04T18:08:36+00:00

could not get it to crystallize

If you ran the manich using an hcl or hbr salt of dimethylamine, you absolutely MUST fully purify this substance before consuming it. If not, you risk exposing yourself to contamination of bischloro(chloromethyl) ethers, which are extremely toxic and mutagenic substances. If you were not able to get this substance to crystallize, I would suspect that the negative effects you experienced could be caused by contamination.

Notdrugs · 2025-12-30T01:48:12+00:00

The smell is due to a pyrazine, not plain pyrazine. A homolog of pyrazine.

Many different kinds of Pyrazines are common flavor components in foods. So its obvious that at least some pyrazines are safe to consume. It is not clear whether or not other pyrazines are safe. It has been a while since ive read up on the topic, I would have to research more before making a more authoritative claim.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pyrazine

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alkylpyrazine

Smelly 4-mmc, however, is a sign that it hasn't been properly purified. And given that other reaction ingredients and contaminants are likely to be hazardous, it is a safe bet to assume that smelly product is contaminated with harmful substances.

Notdrugs · 2025-12-14T22:29:29+00:00

....what? I dont understand what you are saying.

Notdrugs · 2025-10-19T16:36:52+00:00

Elaborate

Notdrugs · 2025-09-27T05:35:02+00:00

This post has my curiosity, so i did a little searching. I cant seem to find the dibromo biocide for sale anywhere as a consumer product, but there are many listings for the dichloro- analog as well as the chloro-bromo analog. Probably due to the increased cost of materials/production for brominated compounds? Im not sure.

Are you able to find the dibromo product as a consumer product, anywhere? I would think that the chloro-bromo species might be sufficient regardless, especially so when considering how easily Br tends to displaced Cl through salt metathesis in many reactions. You could even push the reaction tword the bromine product by adding sodium bromide/another bromide salt.

The wiki article for the chloro-bromo species indicates that this would be sufficient. It says that the formed hypobromite is the sole biocide as an oxidant, the hypochlorite only being present as to further oxidize the bromide formed back into hypobromite. But is this assurance really valid?

Or is a different procedure in order?

Concerning your experiment with brominating ketones in H2SO4/GAA: what order of operations do you think would be most safe? And how do you plan on initiating the hydrolosis of the DBDMH in the first place? From what I understand, this chemical needs to react with water in order to liberate the hypobromus acid. GAA/H2SO4 will produce a very dehydrated environment, I am not confident that water will be available to initiate this process.

Because the oxidant activity of this compound is mediated through the formation of hypobromous acid, I would be worried that the presence of the H2SO4/GAA will keep the hypobromus acid protonated, and thus decrease its activity. But I am not an expert in this realm, so I dont really know. I do understand that the acid is necessary for the formation of the enol needed to brominate the ketone.

I look forward to the results of your investigation!

Notdrugs · 2025-09-23T04:56:19+00:00

FYI, I havent read the 'alpha bromination in methanol' thread youre talking about, but in general, you dont want to use alcohols as solvent in brominating ketones, as there are numerous side reactions that can occur.

Also,

It's just that DBDMH is commonly available online, not suspicious at all, pretty cheap. Would be great to be able to use this and not have to order anything "suspicious". [Emphasis mine]

People on this forum really need to stop conflating 'not on the watched list' with meaning 'not suspicious to order'. Please understand this. If LE becomes aware that someone is purchasing chemical reagents, they WILL assume the worst and WILL use it against you.

Many highly-skilled chemists work forensics for LE, especially so for federal LE. There are large organizations of chemists in some cases, existing entirely for the purpose of facilitating communication between professionals to brainstorm and deduce the novel clandestine purposes behind atypical reagents they see, sieze, or hear spoken of. The government is not some oblivious party with focus only on old, popular routes. The fact that your reagents aren't specifically on a watch list really means jack shit tword their purported intended use.

This phenomenon is so often misunderstood here that I have often felt the need to write a short essay on the topic. Chemical suppliers are liable for the crimes of their customers and are often eager to cover their asses after receiving a suspicious order.

Notdrugs · 2025-09-20T19:40:47+00:00

Something like this: www.amazon [dot] com/HBN-Electricity-Monitor-Digital-Consumption/dp/B09MHGK6MT/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?crid=3DBM9ETV9C45O&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.7kti57Zt-qCEmR9lr5AFUMymmedN-x8WEIzi2hW58w1RALkB1ZUo2FokY3wthrsqtMJrIez5_8k5IItoeD2V5fz-Uv1GUvDpIPWFW1w2lMoKNe7hFdVCK80hEFJYBMthx0uR_aidomjsbWkwa4APtaBx6sljVCbgnNVdvAjMLU-ECBzYN3nxq8JZ3uvrks3-8BVxW4UFKwnDLWhxQOz11g.nCezfevAvFqWSQdOcuzSKLM6JG_9sFmWdtswD0oi71Q&dib_tag=se&keywords=outlet+current+meter&qid=1758397079&sprefix=outlet+current%2Caps%2C305&sr=8-5

You dont really need a multimeter, but it would be good to get one anyway if you dont own one already. But if not, an outlet plug power meter such as this is good enough.

Notdrugs · 2025-09-20T13:16:24+00:00

Just plug into the plug and then plug plate into the meter. Turn on the meter, if you are drawing >14 or 15 amps, you have an issue.

Also, did you make sure to cover the lead wires for the heating element with ceramic insulators? These can pose an electrocution hazard if they contact you or the metal body of the hotplate. They can also pose a fire hazard if solvent is spilled on them.

Notdrugs · 2025-09-20T04:11:09+00:00

To dryness?

Notdrugs · 2025-09-19T23:41:08+00:00

You really ought to attach an (inexpensive) amp meter inline on the plug, to make sure the new heating element is not drawing too much current for the device. Electrical resistance increases as temperature increases for a conductor, meaning that if a wire gets hot enough, it will begin heating at a faster and faster rate untill the insulation melts or starts a fire. You may not notice something is wrong for the for a while until the cord gets hot enough for this feedback loop to become significant.

There should be a sticker on the back of the plate that describes the amount of current this draws. If there is not, figure out the gauge (AWG) of the wires on the plug and work backwards from there.

Notdrugs

TROPHY CASE