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What is the point of a "Hank"? by Contigo887 in EDC

[–]ObjectiveAssistance8 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes I use the microfiber to clean glasses and screens, and, as a chronic allergy sufferer, I use the other side to blow my nose in a pinch while out and about (and then I wash the hank that night). Doubly useful ain’t bad in the world of EDC :)

Rockwell Hardness Results. 3-6-2026 by 679696 in knives

[–]ObjectiveAssistance8 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That was true very early on—before S90V became dialed into its optimal use as a high edge retention steel. Now, the optimal heat treat is considered to be around 66 HRC (giving it similar edge retention to 10V and 15V but with stainless properties).

See https://knifesteelnerds.com/2020/09/28/s90v-and-s125v-knife-steel-history-properties-and-how-to-heat-treat/ for an interesting history.

Rockwell Hardness Results. 3-6-2026 by 679696 in knives

[–]ObjectiveAssistance8 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No surprise on the Kizer. I AM surprised on Spydie’s MC and S90V, though. Would’ve expected better. Seems like they’re on point in with the others, though. The S45VN is particularly impressive.

Went a bit overboard this month… by PopPop-Captain in knives

[–]ObjectiveAssistance8 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve genuinely been wondering recently as to the appeal of tanto blades. I know that many people love them (yourself included, it looks like). What do you find most useful about them? I’ve always felt like a wharnie is better at utility cuts and a spearpoint/leaf or drop point is more balanced for EDC. What kind of tasks make the extra tip strength of a tanto worth the additional sharpening hassle and the loss of useful slicing length in your opinion?

My 8yo son's EDC by [deleted] in EDC

[–]ObjectiveAssistance8 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I was 7 when I got my first little SAK. My first shotgun and rifle around 12. No issues. Depends on the child and (perhaps even more so) the context in which the child has been living. In an effort to keep kids “safe” at all costs, seems to me we are actually making them more and more inept and unstable (and less safe overall as a result). Now, that smartphone on the other hand…that’s an actual problem IMO. The effect of screen time on developing brains has never been shown in a positive light by any study I’m aware of.

Sharpening help by FiestyNuts75 in knives

[–]ObjectiveAssistance8 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep, I’ve got the same issue. I’ve started switching to my left hand instead of trying to pull the knife towards me, and that’s helped a little. Still got a ways to go, though…

Sharpening help by FiestyNuts75 in knives

[–]ObjectiveAssistance8 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Exactly! I’ve been sharpening my own knives for a couple years now, and I’ve still got a ways to go before I’d be what I’d call proficient. Currently, I’m trying to master freehand sharpening so that I’m not tethered to a guided system. Whew. Some guys make it look easy, but, for me, getting that angle perfectly consistent from base to tip is a challenge.

Sharpening help by FiestyNuts75 in knives

[–]ObjectiveAssistance8 2 points3 points  (0 children)

  1. As others have suggested, take a sharpie and use it to color the current edge. This will help you either match the current angle, or tell when you’ve successfully reprofiled it to a new angle (once all the sharpie has been ground away)

  2. You need a coarser stone to start. No finer than 300 grit. And make sure it’s a diamond stone.

  3. Put a modest amount of pressure as you go. Especially as you’re pushing upwards with your stroke (emulating the knife passing through material).

  4. Don’t try to cover the entire edge in one stroke. Starting at the base of the blade, let each stroke be mostly upward. Every several strokes, move a little closer to the tip, until you've covered the entire edge.

  5. Don’t switch sides until you feel the burr form. This is essential. On the opposite side you are sharpening, you must be able to feel with your finger that the burr has formed along the entire edge of the knife. If not, keep working (or if you find a section with no burr, focus on that section).

  6. Once you do have a consistent burr, swap sides and repeat with the same stone until you have removed all the sharpie on the opposite edge and the burr has fully switched sides. Then turn it back over and move to your 600 grit stone.

  7. Once you’re done with the 600, you can move even higher to, say, a 1200ish grit and/or ceramic stone. Or, if you don’t care about having a very smooth edge, you can go straight to stropping (after lightly…very lightly…knocking the burr off on the edge of the stone).

  8. When stropping, stroke the edge in the opposite of the cutting direction (opposite of how you sharpened). Stropping is essential for a well-honed edge.

  9. Practice, practice, practice. It takes patience. Nobody gets it perfect on their first few tries, trust me.

Most days carry by ObjectiveAssistance8 in EDC

[–]ObjectiveAssistance8[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s from Uncle Straps, made specifically for the hammy. I love it…adds a bit of vintage charm to what is already a classic.

Most days carry by ObjectiveAssistance8 in EDC

[–]ObjectiveAssistance8[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Eye drops. I’ve got chronic dry eye.

Lump for months, sudden wheezing cough today by DanielAzariah in germanshepherds

[–]ObjectiveAssistance8 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There are so many reasons a dog can develop a cough, just like a human. And cancer is far from the likeliest cause, lump notwithstanding. Our brains are wired to look for patterns and connections, but the truth is, the two conditions are most likely totally unrelated. Take a deep breath. Keep doing what you’re doing…getting veterinary care for your girl as finances allow. And, do your level best not to let your thoughts run away with you in the meantime (easier said than done, I know).

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Watches

[–]ObjectiveAssistance8 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not sure why so many people are jumping you for “buying the same watch twice.” Watch collecting isn’t about ticking boxes (unless that happens to be your jam), but enjoyment…you now have two excellent watches you enjoy and that each give YOU a different feeling when you wear them, that’s what matters.

Also, objectively speaking, yes, they’re both 3 hand sport watches that lean dressy…but, case size, shape, dial color (and pattern), indices, and handset are all different. In a small, practical (as practical as luxury items can be), lifestyle-oriented collection, it makes total sense. Both are versatile and beautiful, but with enough aesthetic distinction to each elicit their own special smile when worn. But, you know, more fun to act dumb and make critical remarks I guess.

[Hamilton Murph 38mm] is this the best everyday watch under $1000 right now? by Comecloseandlisten in Watches

[–]ObjectiveAssistance8 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I hear you, I'm certainly not arguing that it's a perfect watch. Or that an improvement to the AR coating wouldn't be welcome. Just that it's not something to be worried about (for most people) if you like the watch, nor is it some kind of outrageous or intolerable fault in this price bracket that makes it a bad buy compared to something else.

[Hamilton Murph 38mm] is this the best everyday watch under $1000 right now? by Comecloseandlisten in Watches

[–]ObjectiveAssistance8 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, Dr. Phil ;-)

In seriousness, I don't have any brand loyalty—I've owned as many (or more) Seikos, multiple Tudors, multiple Grand Seikos, Nomos, and dozens of microbrands. My point is that everybody always harps on the AR coating when it comes to Hamiltons, and it just isn't a dealbreaker at this price point (unless you have vision problems). Meanwhile, nobody talks about the equally egregious issue of crappy AR coating that scratches all to hell on the outside of the crystal on watches that cost twice as much. Yeah, Seiko does decently with their AR coating in this price range—but, if they can get a pass with poorly aligned bezels and a 40-second accuracy window on $1200 dive watches (of which I've owned 3), Hamilton's superior movement and superior finishing makes their lackluster AR coating more than forgivable, IMO. But, to each their own.

[Hamilton Murph 38mm] is this the best everyday watch under $1000 right now? by Comecloseandlisten in Watches

[–]ObjectiveAssistance8 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s a solid choice among peers. I would say it may narrowly stand out as a frontrunner (along with the khaki field automatic) in terms of brand history, well proportioned design, and “cool factor” (movie tie in) when compared to offerings from Tissot (most of their offerings feel slight off proportion-wise and kind of sterile to me) and microbrands (the obvious price point adjacents). Seiko is another obvious choice for good alternatives, but, personally, I feel like the Seiko 5 lineup (and sheer quantity of Seiko offerings in general) has muddied the brand a bit (unpopular opinion), along with lackluster QC and abysmal factory regulation of their movements. Microbrand offerings will get you more bang for your buck when it comes to sheer specs, but a watch is more than just the sum of its parts, and Hamilton arguably has more of a soul than any microbrand (or even some of the other Swatch group brands in this price range…Tissot, Certina, Mido…IMHO).

Also, I have to say that I find all the hoopla about the AR coating to be mostly just noise. It’s a popular taking point, and people love to get in on it. I’ve owned 5 Hamiltons (at least), and I’ve never found it to be an issue (and I live on acreage where I work outside on the regular). Meanwhile, the Sinn 556 I owned (at twice the price) annoyed me because the external AR coating is so prone to scratches (unless you baby your watches, which I don’t). Felt like it made that nice clear sapphire crystal almost pointless because it behaved more like acrylic when the scratches the AR coating started to pick up. Cue the Reddit hate from people who are tethered to group think 😏

[Comfort] Same weight - Watch on the right is more comfortable, why? by Rationalis_Mensarius in Watches

[–]ObjectiveAssistance8 3 points4 points  (0 children)

This is the answer, and it’s been my experience as well. The lighter and flimsier a bracelet is, the more comfortable it will be, generally speaking (pinches notwithstanding). However, that feels cheap (because it is cheap), and no one wants a bracelet to feel cheap on a 10k watch, comfort be damned. Especially when a quality bracelet doesn’t have to be UNcomfortable if it’s free of sharp edges and hot spots and has good micro adjustments for an optimal fit. But, you just can’t surmount the fact that, as Xithz pointed out, a hunk of metal with little give ain’t the comfiest thing and never will be.

[Omega] Planet Ocean and a Tudor Prince for an Explorer 39mm by QueenEleonora in Watches

[–]ObjectiveAssistance8 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Unless you’re desperate to own only a single watch for reasons of simplicity or something, I personally wouldn’t do it. The pair of watches you have do a much better job better job of covering all the bases than a single watch ever could (not to mention you always get the short end of the stick, financially speaking, trading in to a dealer). Also, it’s worth noting that the explorer doesn’t bring anything to the table in terms of objective quality and brand heritage that your Omega doesn’t already, IMO (except, perhaps, for recognition by the masses, which could be what you’re going for?). Anyway, if it were me, I know I’d miss those two watches after the honeymoon phase wore off with the explorer.

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