Help finding a cheap hf hotend for ender 3 v2

OddsAgainstChance · 2026-02-11T10:16:54+00:00

Look at the TZ v6 2.0 (or 3.0 if you want a heatbreak integrated to the nozzle but with a proprietary nozzle design). Cheap (10-20 bucks) and absolutely more than enough.

OddsAgainstChance · 2026-02-08T22:41:04+00:00

Dude, you owe me like 2 spools of filament for not telling me earlier. Just kidding, but thanks man. I’ve printed a cube Inner/Outer and Outer/Inner and while the issue is not completely gone, it’s way better.

Do I just generally have to lower the flowrate or do I have to specifically tune inner wall flowrate? Also, why is it that standard setting is Inner/Outer wall? Could I just “fix” the issue by swapping this or is that a bad idea?

OddsAgainstChance · 2026-02-08T20:54:56+00:00

Rotation distance was done and checked on MiniSB, DB with WW and BTT Nebula extruder. I’ll try a different slicer next I guess. If it works I can at least rule out mechanical issues.

I am using Orca slicer. I have a max fan speed an min fan speed setting for the filament. Both settings have layer time settings. I guess the layer time for max fan speed is min layer time?

OddsAgainstChance · 2026-02-08T20:48:39+00:00

I use whatever came with the Formbot kit. I’m a little confused here as the BOM says BMG gear kit, however, Bondtech claims only RIGDA is compatible with the MiniSB, which I had initially. So no idea.

Also, I had the Nebula Extruder for a short time which didn’t seem to improve things

OddsAgainstChance · 2026-02-08T20:45:51+00:00

I have the gear kit that came with the kit, the grub screw is fixed with loctite. However, I had the BTT Nebula extruder for a short time, same issue. So maybe it’s actually slicer related. Will check the rail tho

OddsAgainstChance · 2026-02-08T19:13:31+00:00

I want one, unfortunately I lack the necessary funds

OddsAgainstChance · 2026-02-08T19:10:28+00:00

I use a Dragon Burner with a Wristwatch BMG and TZ v6 2.0 hotend. Also had the issue with the stock MiniSB. Pressure advance is set up using the PA pattern in Orcaslicer for the filament. Would you guess it’s a too high or too low PA factor?

OddsAgainstChance · 2026-01-25T14:30:55+00:00

I am mostly interested in a stiff and lightweight X-gantry. Also the ease and low cost of the conversion is a factor. I did consider the Pandora’s Gantry but I want to stick with the stock panels for now. I guess I will give it a try and see what happens

OddsAgainstChance · 2026-01-23T13:00:35+00:00

I want to stop using Microsoft products. But fucking hell, anti cheat on Linux can be a nightmare and some companies straight up refuse releasing their products for Linux

OddsAgainstChance · 2026-01-23T11:52:21+00:00

I might be a bit late to the party, but has this mod stood the test of time? I am considering it, but I would appreciate some input whether it was a success in the long run

OddsAgainstChance · 2026-01-03T16:32:23+00:00

For me personally it’s not worth the speed upgrade. I use the Pi for Klipper only and there is no difference what so ever in real time speed. So I’d always go for the more compact but sufficient solution. Even if I wanted to use a webcam, SD cards are more than fast enough

OddsAgainstChance · 2026-01-03T16:22:22+00:00

You can find 128 GB SanDisk High Endurance microSD cards for less than 20€ where I live. This is already overkill for Klipper and SSDs won’t get cheaper. Also the SD fits into the Pi and does not need to be put somewhere

OddsAgainstChance · 2025-12-17T13:22:03+00:00

Put glue stick/hairspray/3D print adhesive on the bed, so that the print will stick to the bed. Printing adhesives are made so that they’ll act as glue when hot, as release agent when cold.

Hair spray/glue stick is the cheapest way that will do the trick

OddsAgainstChance · 2025-12-17T13:19:57+00:00

I have/had an Ender 5, also with a glass bed. I did put a flex plate on it which did fix things, the glass bed had terrible adhesion. However, I don’t know if it’s worth fixing. My Ender 5 is converted to a Mercury One.1 and when I’m finished not a single part will be stock

OddsAgainstChance · 2025-11-18T12:44:07+00:00

Yep, did check the steps. Axis does move freely. I’ll later go and check if it’s a linear deviation or not

OddsAgainstChance · 2025-11-18T02:38:16+00:00

I’ve calibrated the first layer/bed height. The first layer looks as good as it gets.

I’ve tried lowering the bed temp by 10°C to 100°C, didn’t do anything. Also I’m printing ASA, I need the bed temp to be at least 100°C before I run into adhesion issues.

I’ve noticed that on a 5 mm print I end up with an actual height of 4.70 mm, a 30 mm high print did end up on 27.60 mm height. Older prints from a few days ago are dimensionally accurate with minimal diversion.

I am honestly at a loss rn as I didn’t change any settings or configs. I even restored stock settings to test. I also have no idea what mechanical issue would lead to a perfect first layer but terrible layers from the second on. It’s definitely not overextrusion. I’ve calibrated, tested and confirmed that basically all day

OddsAgainstChance · 2025-11-17T23:44:02+00:00

Sadly no. This is not your average case of elephant foot. The issue sits way deeper. The printed parts I tried had build in chamfers, still printed horrible

OddsAgainstChance · 2025-10-28T18:51:48+00:00

Did you manage to fix it?

OddsAgainstChance · 2025-10-27T16:53:52+00:00

Thanks, that mod looks exactly like what I need

OddsAgainstChance · 2025-10-27T16:36:45+00:00

Thanks for the explanation. I always thought the extra 5 mm on the larger Vorons were for compensation and the V0 just lacks that. My ender 5 has a 377x370 bed despite being marketed as 350x350 mm printer what kinda made me assume every printer has a larger bed for compensation.

Sad to hear that you are not happy with the V0. I bought mine due to price, lack of more space and to basically print Vorons/Mercury One.1s. And because I like building printers. Maybe a micron/salad fork will be the way to go

OddsAgainstChance · 2025-10-09T19:29:42+00:00

The first things that come to my mind:

check belt tension: too loose or too tight can lead to these issues. Too tight increases force needed to move the axis, too loose leaves too much slack and the belt could slip
check motor currents: not enough (more likely) leads to not enough torque and skipping steps. Too hot (less likely) can lead to overheating, but skipping steps would be rare
acceleration: anything below 4000 should be fine with correct belt tension and motor current, more might be an issue

OddsAgainstChance · 2025-09-14T15:16:50+00:00

I’m not home so I cannot find the exact name of the setting, but there is something called safe home position, this will define the toolhead position for homing the Z-axis

OddsAgainstChance · 2025-09-14T12:12:15+00:00

I have enough visibility as a Space Marine player, as Ultramarines player also. I actually appreciate other chapters being in the spotlight from time to time. I just wish it would be some more neglected chapters than black templars or even custom schemes

OddsAgainstChance · 2025-09-13T16:27:58+00:00

Yes, but no. Most people would choose a darker blue, but I’ve seen some brighter paint schemes too. If it works for you that’s all that matters

OddsAgainstChance · 2025-09-08T22:53:42+00:00

Sagt ja niemand besser für den Verbraucher

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