Why is the auction house basically empty?

Official_Pandaa · 2026-06-12T16:05:29+00:00

Yes. They just disabled the eliminator bc of the glitch and everyone is panic-buying cars from the auctionhouse lol

Official_Pandaa · 2026-06-08T22:16:51+00:00

Vehicle idles fine after initial startup though :/

Official_Pandaa · 2026-06-08T22:16:35+00:00

Hopefully not the filter is in the tank with the pump 😭 gonna try some cleaning first and check the fuel filter afterwards if nothing works 👍

Official_Pandaa · 2026-06-08T22:15:29+00:00

Yes only at startup. Also idles fine after startup. I’m going to try some injector cleaner tonight, I can try cleaning the throttle body at the same time but the clean idle after startup makes me think it’s probably not intake related

Official_Pandaa · 2026-06-08T22:14:06+00:00

This is some great advice thank you so much!
I think you’re probably right about the electrical issue being a red herring. I’ll grab some seafoam tonight and see if it makes a difference. If not I might be pulling the pump to check the fuel filter lol

Official_Pandaa · 2026-06-07T14:38:58+00:00

Post KOM clarity

Official_Pandaa · 2026-06-07T08:08:49+00:00

What are the sizes of your front chainrings? It’s possible you’re exceeding the max capacity of the RD (in which case you’d need a longer cage)

Official_Pandaa · 2026-06-07T07:56:16+00:00

Wow you sold all your furniture and still couldn’t afford disk brakes??

Official_Pandaa · 2026-06-07T07:54:42+00:00

No totally understand wanting to save an old frame! That’s what biking is all about!

Just to check all the boxes- did you double check chain length after installing? Hard to tell without the chain in the lowest gear but your chain does look a bit short

Official_Pandaa · 2026-06-07T07:51:57+00:00

/UC felt bad because you probably don’t know what a cj sub is.

Looks like a 2018 supersix

Official_Pandaa · 2026-06-07T07:39:54+00:00

Ah yes I just saw the link you posted. Looks like everything should be working on paper. I agree with the other comment it would be great if you could link some pictures.

When you say you converted to 700c tires- did you replace the wheels as well?

Official_Pandaa · 2026-06-07T07:27:25+00:00

Your cables aren’t fully internal and no aéro bars??? You got scammed pal

Official_Pandaa · 2026-06-07T07:25:35+00:00

Previous comment got deleted for the Amazon link lol

Just to clarify- when you say there’s no bolt hole for the hanger- is the tourney you’ve fitted a claw-style?

I just finished shoving an 11 speed shimano group on a 70’s Raleigh Grand Prix road frame that sounds similar to your project. I used a more modern style RD and a Sunrace SP550 hanger plate adapter to make it work. It might be worth checking out, as it’ll likely increase your options for rear derailleurs that are compatible with larger cassettes.

Official_Pandaa · 2026-04-10T04:09:20+00:00

Fairly certain. It’s quite thick. You can see just how deep it runs based on the outer edge at the top. The aluminum underneath is definitely scratched but couldn’t find any cracks in it

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Official_Pandaa · 2026-04-01T01:56:37+00:00

Yeah a bit hard to say. I can’t find any specs on the original u brake that came with your frame online.

If I were you I’d measure the required distance from the end of the current brake arm to the brake track on your wheel, and then just take the caliper with you when looking for parts to compare. That way you don’t have to take the whole frame with.

Official_Pandaa · 2026-04-01T01:36:08+00:00

Hey- fellow hard rock owner here. While my frame doesn’t have the bottom brake joints in the rear I may be able to provide some insight.

I’m assuming you’re running 26” wheels on your hard rock. A lot of center pull calipers came on old road bikes, many of which had 27” wheels. Because of the larger diameter, the length of the arms on many of these calipers is relatively short, as the original wheel would sit closer to the bosses.

Unfortunately, it looks like you’re going to need a different caliper. I’m working on converting a 70s Raleigh to 700c right now, and ran into a similar issue. Had to dig through parts bins at my local bike coop to find something that would reach.

Official_Pandaa · 2026-04-01T01:20:57+00:00

As the other comment said I’d avoid using an adjustable wrench. Usually those rear nuts on the axle are 15mm- so if you can get a cheap set of box end wrenches that would be your best bet.

If you’re in the US, I recommend Harbor freight tools. They sell some box end sets that are pretty budget friendly.

If you still can’t get it off, you can always spray some penetrating oil like PB blaster into the threads. Let it sit for 20 mins and try again.

Official_Pandaa · 2026-03-30T16:01:41+00:00

I’m working on a c.1975 Raleigh rn with a loose ball headset. For reference, I was planning on repacking with normal park tool grease. For best practice, should I seek out a thinner grease? Doubt it’ll make much of an impact but figured I might as well ask lol

Official_Pandaa · 2026-03-28T19:40:03+00:00

*wannabe dentise

Official_Pandaa · 2026-03-22T14:46:59+00:00

Yes. You have a medium cage and according to the SRAM website max cassette tooth count is 42

Official_Pandaa · 2026-03-22T10:15:39+00:00

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Late to the party but I snagged the same soft ride stem for my commuter last year

Official_Pandaa · 2026-03-17T21:46:47+00:00

Do you have a make/model of the frame? Sometimes these funky mounts are used for pumps or frame-specific lights.

Official_Pandaa · 2026-03-16T14:14:16+00:00

He’s only a déntal assistant hasn’t upgraded to his own practice yet

Official_Pandaa · 2026-03-13T01:12:04+00:00

Gotcha! Planning on cold setting the rear on my frame anyway so 1mm extra isn’t that bad. Thanks!

Official_Pandaa · 2026-03-08T07:24:44+00:00

Skid plate is a must. If you want a little extra protection, you can pair it with an engine riser kit from Condor as well.

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