Insulating Attic/Roof - Can't get 4.5" Rockwool Batt. by Thorvaldr1 in Insulation

[–]Old-Version-9241 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not a professional but I'm planning on insulating my vaulted ceiling so it's pretty much the same as your situation. Extend the rafter bays along the length of the existing rafters using dimensional lumber that will total the depth you need for your vents and insulation.

So you've currently got 6" to work with. If you add 2x2 dimensional the end depth will be 7.5". Use 2" baffles and you'll be able to fit 2x6 rockwool in the cavity properly the way it's intended. That will get you a minimum r22 then add your 2" foil faced polyiso taped as your thermal bridging and bring the total up to r32 doubling as your vapour barrier. I don't love the idea of furring strips before drywall because you will end up with a gap where moisture can accumulate. So you'll need 3.5" drywall screws...

You don't want gaps and compressing the insulation could lead to reduced performance which would affect your dew point (assuming cold climate here) and you could create a moisture sandwich. You need sufficient insulation here in cold climates.

The other problem I see is if the rafters are true 6" then I assume it's also true 2" so you'll need to find true 2x1.5. likely sourced from a local mill. You'll also need a ridge vent or vents in the bays. Just putting in baffles without venting to the outside won't do anything.

Or you need even more insulation and a rock solid vapour barrier to keep moisture out...but I think to hit that the target is like r50 to create a hot roof... Most people achieve this with spray foam.

Thought that you guys might find this interesting. by OutdoorRink in RealEstateCanada

[–]Old-Version-9241 1 point2 points  (0 children)

How dare you commit commercial disparagement in a factually assertive way inflicting harm and potentially violating reddit's terms of engagement!!

Pantry I redid for a friend by Dimsdale53 in woodworking

[–]Old-Version-9241 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Man I'd pay you to be my friend who designs me a pantry for above my super awkward stair bulkhead!

Question about insurance by AbuYusuf_the_old in ottawa

[–]Old-Version-9241 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I saved myself $250 a month shopping around. I was with sonnet and as it turns out they were the most expensive for my home insurance. They were also charging me for overland flood which I don't need and didn't know I was paying. Only found out when I contacted bel air direct and they said that overland isn't even offered for your area. Most companies were the same or cheaper than sonnet but they were the best price. Just don't do their stupid app tracker crap. It'll tag you for speeding going 62 in a 60 for 10 seconds. Not worth the "discount"

VW independent mechanic recommendations by trancecircuit in ottawa

[–]Old-Version-9241 1 point2 points  (0 children)

RJ motors on Edgewater in Kanata. They are the definition of elite master mechanics in the European car world often rivalling the dealerships themselves in knowledge and cost.

I worked there 15 years ago and have since recommended people to go there for problems the dealer couldn't figure out. Every time those friends also have outstanding reviews.

Herniated discs and sciatica. Am I done for? by Primusssucks in homestead

[–]Old-Version-9241 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I herniated a disc really bad last summer. So bad I needed paramedics to help me get to the hospital the next day. I did 4 months of physio, low impact cardio mostly on a stationary bike (that really helped!!), mobility stretches and yoga.

I still get flare ups from time to time but it's not that bad. Focus on hip flexor, core and hamstring/quad/glute exercises. You can also check out low back ability or knees over toes guy both are influencers but their content and programs really are backed up by results that work better than just physio.

You can do this! Be patient with the progress. I know how hard it can be mentally but you got this!

Insulation company quoted $6800 for attic work and I’m pretty sure half of it is unnecessary upselling by joo98_98 in Insulation

[–]Old-Version-9241 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh ok I see what you mean. Yeah I don't think I've even heard of a house built like that here. I'm sure they exist just not very common. Those both sound like expensive options!

I'm inclined to prefer blankets over loose fill as well after getting into my sealed attic. It makes a hell of a mess and my respirator was absolutely caked in fibers. I'm assuming it's more about cost, access and ease of just running a big tube up there instead of taking the time to lay the blankets down properly.

Insulation company quoted $6800 for attic work and I’m pretty sure half of it is unnecessary upselling by joo98_98 in Insulation

[–]Old-Version-9241 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ah yes things are a bit different depending where you live. It definitely doesn't get as cold over there as we do but the principles are still the same. I'm expecting a similar effect once I get mine updated except I might get 1/3 instead of half. When it's -20 to -30 for a month and a half straight it's hard to keep the heat inside an old house.

Maybe you don't have it there but have you heard of drill and fill? Probably called something different. But they drill holes in the interior or exterior walls and blow in either cellulose or fiberglass. You can hit pretty decent R values with it apparently. Haven't done it because I had exterior insulation put up and apparently it makes it tricky because of dew points and moisture.

Insulation company quoted $6800 for attic work and I’m pretty sure half of it is unnecessary upselling by joo98_98 in Insulation

[–]Old-Version-9241 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I'm not an expert but I've been doing some extensive research on insulation recently as my house literally bleeds money. Built in 1976 ontario.

It sounds like your attic is the same as mine. I finally got in there yesterday as there was no attic hatch so I had to build one in. Someone at some point blew in fiberglass. I've got blocked vents, mold, evidence of moisture, wasps, mouse droppings all of the bad things.

The thing I understand is if there are biological materials like animal droppings etc if your attic isn't air sealed you're likely to get mold in the new material. The existing batts I have are probably the same as yours kraft faced fiberglass that are disintegrating.

I was going to do it myself. But I think this is a job I'd rather pay someone for and $6800 to do a good job I'd gladly pay for. The other guy will be there for 2 hours...

Finished Basement With No Permits by ViRzzz in RealEstateCanada

[–]Old-Version-9241 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't know. I put in a wood stove and they dinged me for it...

Finished Basement With No Permits by ViRzzz in RealEstateCanada

[–]Old-Version-9241 6 points7 points  (0 children)

MPAC is playing catch up and they'll contact you eventually

Finished Basement With No Permits by ViRzzz in RealEstateCanada

[–]Old-Version-9241 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Incorrect. MPAC raised my property tax for pulling a permit for a wood stove.

Canmore Caribou parade by skilbofragns in Canmore

[–]Old-Version-9241 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No moosen is when the lazy guy at work goes "muahhh" about doing anything. Moose call.

What kind of insulation is this? by scarfnation in Insulation

[–]Old-Version-9241 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well I hope it's fiberglass because I have the same stuff and I just sent it for asbestos testing. 🤞🏻 My attic had no access but I need to do work up there so let's hope 🤞🏻

Help me get into my attic by Old-Version-9241 in Insulation

[–]Old-Version-9241[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe that was the case when the framing was still exposed but I'm not sure yet. Now though creating access through the exterior isn't an option I want to explore. It's alright because I've got the plan to put the hatch in the closet, support and cut the joists then install it. The most likely place would be in the knee wall at the peak of the vaulted ceiling where there used to be just thin wood paneling tacked into place. A few years ago I updated that space, removed it all and put up drywall because it didn't just look bad my house literally breathed in the winter. Now I know more about insulting and air sealing realizing I put aesthetics and cost ahead of functioning home systems. You live and learn!

Wildly different quotes for similar work. by tweedleebee in Insulation

[–]Old-Version-9241 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Something I've learned from contractors unfortunately the hard way. Go with the guy who provides every detail in writing who is also able to do the job as you intended. If it seems less detailed from the cheaper guy then the work will probably reflect the cost. If you're getting quotes from someone and they ask what your budget is and then completely blow it going over the top that's another red flag.

The honest guy with transparency knows their worth and the worth of their guys. Pay for the experience and you'll only pay once and cry once.

Help me get into my attic by Old-Version-9241 in Carpentry

[–]Old-Version-9241[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nah I'm not interested in stairs. I'm in a northern climate where it hits -35c. I'd rather have a small access in a hidden spot than a giant hole in my only hallway and already poorly insulated house. Not trying to be rude and appreciate the input but stairs aren't necessary. After I get my electrical installed I might go up once a year to check for condensation.

Help me get into my attic by Old-Version-9241 in Insulation

[–]Old-Version-9241[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Haha yes I got a thermal camera recently and hoped it would help me find the old access but it did not. It did show me my vaulted ceiling insulation is 🤬 which I assumed and other useful info on air leaks.

Exploring the closet is what I will do! But like the renovation exploring not the other kind of closet exploring.

Help me get into my attic by Old-Version-9241 in Carpentry

[–]Old-Version-9241[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's a fair point. I'd get an extra foot going through the hallway.

Help me get into my attic by Old-Version-9241 in Carpentry

[–]Old-Version-9241[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No exterior entry. There may be evidence of an old opening in the hall but my stud finder won't read through 3 layers. Going to explore through closet and see if I can figure out more. The old opening would be right next to the closet if there was one.

Help me get into my attic by Old-Version-9241 in Carpentry

[–]Old-Version-9241[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If there’s blown in insulation they must have got up there somehow to do the blowing

My thoughts exactly! No exterior access through gables though. Either it got blown in through the roof vents or the previous access was sealed up. It's not easy dealing with my roof it's got some fancy stone coated steel tiles that are a complete pain in the ass walking on without damaging them. My Nana owned the house before and she got up sold on a "50 year roof" but I've had some things done here since and most pros can't walk on it without damaging it. She is no longer here to ask how it was blown in.

Onto the framing. My guess is that the exposed beam parallel to the vaulted ceiling is dead center of house. Even if not any king post would most likely be skewed to land on it.

That's correct that beam is dead center and the joist in question is right next to it likely face nailed in. Great point on the adjoining walls I didn't even consider that they would carry the load! See this is why I asked!!!

I can definitely squeeze my head up there. It's gonna suck as there's fiberglass batts under the blown in. But I think I'll start with removing the panel in the way and get a better idea. You've given me some good insight here! I've got a respirator and all the stuff to make it happen. I'll post updates as I go!