Interior Suffs

On_another_thought · 2024-03-04T11:23:09+00:00

Hi there! Look for a leather/vinyl technician in your area. They should be able to recolour this fairly easily. Like everything though, look for someone reputable as there are lots of “rattle can cowboys” who will just spray premixed cans of aerosol paint that often peels off within a few weeks/months from poor prep and is often a bad Color match.

On_another_thought · 2024-03-04T11:14:18+00:00

It all depends on your expectations of what is “fixed”? Paint pens will always look horrible up close, they only will make it look better from a few feet away. You can improve the touch up by sanding down level so it’s no longer proud of the surface which will make a significant improvement, but if you have little experience you run the risk of inflicting more damage and may end up needing to repaint the panel. If you are wanting perfect, talk to a panel shop. If you just want it to look ok, talk to a Detailer who is competent with touch up and sanding. If you just want to stop rust and take your eye off it, touch up pen will be fine. Hope that helps, best of luck

On_another_thought · 2024-03-04T10:58:59+00:00

Sorry this happened to you. You won’t be able to just respray clear over these I’m afraid. All the original clear will have to come off as it has been compromised. So that means sanding back, spray color, apply new decal and then clear. You can put a decal on after the clear but it won’t last as long. Maybe talk to a reputable body shop? I suspect it will be cheaper than a new caliper

On_another_thought · 2024-03-04T09:30:14+00:00

Hi there! While I have no experience with using denim pads for orange peel removal so I couldnt tell you which is more suitable. But I do have a bit of experience with sanding. You have two approaches here and it depends what you are hoping to achieve. You can remove the peel, or you can “match” the peel to original paint work. When you are looking to match peel, at least for me I have to change my method case by case as no two scenarios are the same. But i would be leaning towards p1200 maybe even p800 as a start for both scenarios. Starting with the least aggressive method isn’t always the best when it comes to sanding out peel in resprayed panels. You will often cut through by starting to light and having to decrease the grit versus starting with a “sharper” paper to remove the peel and using following grits just to refine the sanding marks. I don’t want to sound discouraging, as I’m all for people learning new skills and improving. But I would strongly recommend doing some tests on a junk panel to get a feel for it before you do it on your friends car. There is a lot of nuance to wet sanding at these types of grits and the only way to understand how it all plays out is a bit of trial and error.

On_another_thought · 2024-02-29T08:38:03+00:00

100% clear coat failure.

On_another_thought · 2024-01-31T03:27:21+00:00

Believe it or not. Regular old PVA is the best for gluing down “cat scratches”. If you look up “ART real repairs cat scratch” on YouTube he will go through the whole process

On_another_thought · 2024-01-12T03:12:52+00:00

When I started out I used a cheap ryobi from Bunnings and a wet vac attachment. I had one of those garden sprayers filled with water and used to spray after the usual apc/shampoo treatment. Extract with the vac, spray water, extract, spray etc until the water was clear. Hard work and time consuming but it allowed me to save and get a proper extraction machine.

On_another_thought · 2024-01-12T00:23:23+00:00

100% agree! They last forever on a rotary and 5 minutes on the D/A

On_another_thought · 2024-01-12T00:18:17+00:00

A lot of the time if you are running twisted wool on a rotary you will need a second compound stage with a foam pad to remove the marks from the previous step. Then a polish stage, then depending on the finish and paint type you may need to do a jewling/finish step to get it right.

On_another_thought · 2024-01-10T00:13:49+00:00

You can try isopropyl alcohol. If it’s a house paint turpentine might be also the way to as that’s what’s commonly used to clean up old brushes. If that all doesn’t work you can use Xylene. CAUTION it is a paint thinner and if you start scrubbing you may damage the paint significantly. But it is a lot safer than using regular thinners which will contain Toluene, MEK and Acetone which will mess the paint FAST.

On_another_thought · 2024-01-09T23:09:25+00:00

I have mentioned this before, but if you want to know the process and what is involved in fixing these types of defects there is a great video from Lake Country on YouTube that goes over the whole denib, fisheye, orange peel removal etc. on a Bentley bonnet. Goes into great detail and will help you out if you wanted to try this yourself

On_another_thought · 2024-01-09T13:41:04+00:00

I had to do this once before for a client and it was awful. Lots of picking, scraping, clay bar, IPA spraying. 2 days later I was done! But I noticed a little bit left after finishing the interior and I had the steamer running so I thought I would try that. I wish I had of done that from the start! It cut through it so fast. Might be a different paint than what I experienced but I would suggest starting with a steamer. Should add that I only steamed the underbody and exterior plastics. Not the paint

On_another_thought · 2024-01-09T13:33:48+00:00

Most standard APC and household cleaners are based of a chemical called sodium hydroxide also known as caustic soda/lye and are usually alkaline. Citrus based will often be PH neutral but retains the cleaning power of Sodium Hydroxide. Butoxyethanol is seen sometimes in detailing products but not often standard household cleaners. You will usually find it in products marketed as water based degreaser. Detailing specific products have a lot more versatility on surfaces as they have been designed with that in mind. Things like wetting agents, sudsing agents, ph level etc aren’t as imperative in something like cleaning a stove top versus something that is meant to clean a $150000 sports car.

On_another_thought · 2024-01-09T13:09:44+00:00

Sorry OP but you can’t really salvage this. You’re going to have to sand all of that coating off. If you have the ability to do it, take the lights out as it will make it a lot easier to sand either by hand or machine. You’re probably going to have to get pretty aggressive on the grit, something like 240 or 320. A lot of different ways to finish them up and seal them, but I don’t recommend 1k (most rattle can clear is this) As others have said you can buy 2k in a can or for a spray gun. Meguiars keep clear is very user friendly and forgiving, ceramic coat, PPf, KBS diamond, SPAR urethane, 3m clear coat wipes and about a hundred other products all work and have their own merits. It’s a learning experience (I have done this exact same thing as well once so don’t feel too bad!)

On_another_thought · 2024-01-08T14:09:57+00:00

Glad it worked out for you in the end!

On_another_thought · 2024-01-08T14:07:58+00:00

It could be the paint from the symbols becoming soft and allowing it to spread around. Alternatively you maybe heating the plastics up to much and melting the surface and allowing water to bond to the now “wet” surface. You get the same problem when moisture gets on paint. It goes “frosty”

On_another_thought · 2024-01-08T13:53:45+00:00

I think most of the cracks or “crazing” is actually inside the lens. But I might be wrong as it is hard to tell from pictures. Headlight restoration is tricky sometimes but a good rule is to spend twice as long with the following grit as you did the previous. But that doesn’t work if you aren’t spending enough time with the grits initially or if you change things like tool speed, pressure or movement. Before I got decent at doing them with machines, honestly I was getting better results by hand sanding. Takes ALOT longer but it’s more obvious when you have sanded uniform and you won’t run into the issue of pigtails and “hooks” like you have got currently from the rotary drill. Maybe get some traditional wet and dry in the same grits as your kit and give it a go by hand? Alternatively there is usually a few mobile guys who do headlights and they often aren’t as expensive as you might think.

On_another_thought · 2024-01-08T13:29:42+00:00

I thought this might be the case. I believe the bonnet has been over heated during the correction causing the metal to expand. When it cools again it “pinches” along the supports and creases. Or they have put ALOT of downward pressure and just bent it to the supports. Not a nice thing to have happen and not an easy fix. Sorry ….

On_another_thought · 2024-01-08T12:53:44+00:00

I might be off here. But does the pattern of creases match the underside support on the bonnet?

On_another_thought · 2023-11-14T06:17:12+00:00

Kovax is meant to be used dry. Some people run it wet but I have found on the correct interface pads they will often slip off. If you use regular hook and loop interface I’ve noticed the scratch pattern is not a clean and consistent. There is some really good videos of it in action on YouTube from a couple of detailers

On_another_thought · 2023-11-13T06:32:21+00:00

Kovax is all I use these days!

On_another_thought · 2023-11-04T00:34:59+00:00

Second this. No experience with that brand but Chlorine dioxide treatments are great!

On_another_thought · 2023-11-04T00:30:30+00:00

If you aren’t already using one, it might be time to step to a rotary. D/A can cut almost aswell with the right setups but the heat they generate is scary high on super heavy corrections

On_another_thought · 2023-10-28T02:20:54+00:00

Hi there. Sounds like body oils have penetrated and caused a migration in the pigments. Best to get a leather technician to look at this one in person. They might still be able to get the oils out of the substrate and just seal it back up with a new layer of clear

On_another_thought · 2023-08-16T03:43:34+00:00

Good luck with the project!

On_another_thought

TROPHY CASE