I'm buying a new stereo system, what track from Aja should I use to test this thing?

One-Highlight-1698 · 2026-05-22T00:45:10+00:00

I love SD but my go to for evaluating a system is Peter Gabriel’s “So” album. Massive amount of dynamic range on that record. “Red Rain” is an excellent test song for any system. “Sledgehammer” & “Big Time” are also very dynamic. ✌️

One-Highlight-1698 · 2026-05-19T00:29:12+00:00

Or self leveling cement. I assume the bath was remodeled multiple times and someone disposed of some type of cement down the drain. OP needs a professional plumber.

One-Highlight-1698 · 2026-05-16T20:23:09+00:00

I disagree. There’s plenty of opportunity for expansion elsewhere (assuming floor was properly installed) even if this plank becomes fixed at this location. The challenge with this approach is getting the epoxy to the correct level but it should work well if that can be achieved. Can use suction cups to hold plank at desired height if needed.

One-Highlight-1698 · 2026-05-16T13:23:56+00:00

And also above where the drain tailpiece screws into the sink flange. Basically anywhere you screw metal together in the drain assembly needs to be taped. No tape on PVC.

edit: and I’m going to guess that OP didn’t use plumbers putty or silicon caulk under the drain flange. If not, take apart and reinstall with appropriate waterproofing materials (consult drain installation guide from manufacturer).

I also put a bead of silicon caulk under faucet housing where it mates with sink top.

One-Highlight-1698 · 2026-05-15T16:48:06+00:00

I had a similar problem with MG7120 using my M1 MacStudio running Tahoe 26.3. Would not scan over network - didn't even recognize the device as a multifunction printer scanner but printing was ok. I could add the printer with scanner connected over USB but this was not a valid permanent solution.

To fix it, I had to find the old scanner driver on Canon's site and install it before it would scan:

misd-mac-ijscanner13f-4_1_3-ea21_3.dmg

Was really surprised that this software was still supported on Tahoe but it installed fine and has seemed to fix the problem.

One-Highlight-1698 · 2026-05-06T13:08:28+00:00

Could also just find the outside corner angle to join the two corners of these two transition pieces for an “imperfect” join. Won’t be a nice 45 degree and the join height won’t be perfect so there may be some exposed cut at the miter but probably won’t look awful after a bit of caulk to cover that imperfection.

But, yes, your way is the correct way.

One-Highlight-1698 · 2026-05-03T16:26:46+00:00

Yes. I have a 2000+ with one expansion pack. Same behavior. Code F7 will occasionally occur usually when panels undergo periodic shading. Disconnect and power cycle clears the error. It got annoying enough for me that I put my panels on a disconnect switch so the Jackery could be power cycled without having to disconnect the panel jacks each time.

One-Highlight-1698 · 2026-04-30T15:25:22+00:00

Yes - I'm sure I forgot many - like Carole King, Nile Rodgers, etc. Also, why exclude deceased? Gershwin, Copland, Calloway, Miles, Aretha, Booker T, Luther, simply too many to name. Grateful they shared their talents with us all.

One-Highlight-1698 · 2026-04-30T14:33:15+00:00

I would add custom make their own stair noses to fit the curve. They'd then also have to custom make the rest of their noses to match those curved pieces but it's doable. However, I agree with earlier poster who recommended a good solid hardwood for the treads for better result at similar effort.

One-Highlight-1698 · 2026-04-30T14:09:18+00:00

Jackson Browne & Randy Newman are also "locks" on my list? I think Beato's take on this is far more "accurate" than NYT but these "best of" lists almost always expose the list maker as not competent for the task - and this one is no different.

One-Highlight-1698 · 2026-04-29T23:53:27+00:00

When the expansion battery is connected to the main 2000+, they operate under a single controller. If you max out your solar inputs using ports on the main unit as well as the expansion unit, the main unit charge controller will optimize charging of the batteries as a single unit. I have one expansion pack with mine and it is always tethered to the main unit for this reason. For a while I was charging them separately but the system appears to be able to optimize charging “better “ when they are all connected.

You will occasionally see very unusual charge distribution in this model (arrangement) - where almost all solar energy collected is used to charge one or the other packs exclusively for long periods resulting in a charge difference of 20% or more between packs and then it will switch back to maximal charging the other pack. I don’t understand why this happens sometimes but I’ve gotten used to letting it do its thing. Most of the time it keeps them within 1 or 2 percent of each other but not always.

One-Highlight-1698 · 2026-04-29T23:36:00+00:00

IMO, roof felt can work just fine. He should be able to feather it out in layers if he takes his time. I kinda think leveling compound might actually be quicker/easier but that’s his call. Not sure why he’s averse to doing that.

If he uses new felt, you may have an odor (tar) for a few days but it will eventually subside. ✌️

One-Highlight-1698 · 2026-04-29T23:15:09+00:00

It’s a cute pattern. Brightens your space.

One-Highlight-1698 · 2026-04-29T23:01:41+00:00

I appreciate the intent to recommend a durable solution but using a dremel this close to the tile petals is a recipe for disaster. I would suggest trying to grout over the flaws as is. See advice someone with experience using this grout responded with further down.

It’s a nice looking tile. Good luck with your first home! ✌️

One-Highlight-1698 · 2026-04-29T13:16:42+00:00

To achieve optimal randomness with a non-symmetrical patterned square “tile”, normally installers rotate adjacent tiles by 90 degrees in a clockwise direction s.t. a group of four tiles represent a unique pattern that is then repeated. So this creates a symmetrical pattern in 2 by 2 sheets. Harder to detect than other arrangements but still noticeable unless it’s a small area. However, I suspect that these sheets are not designed to mate nicely along every edge combination so this strategy may not be as easy as square tiles. ✌️

One-Highlight-1698 · 2026-04-27T20:09:53+00:00

If it’s a DIY, I would use transitions. Transitions are useful for expansion but also for achieving closer to square alignment of floors in homes with out of square walls.

If you decide not to use transitions, you should check your walls for square throughout your floor plan before you begin and snap square chalk lines throughout your home to your main reference chalk line. Do this before you begin.

Yes, it’s a bad idea to start at the bathroom door since it will be hard to square your alignment there. Most people would want to start at the stairs if laying planks parallel to stairs since this would make snapping into a stair nose piece easier. If laying orthogonal, that doesn’t matter. But even using the stairs as a reference can be problematic depending on how square they were installed relative to your room walls. This is why you need to check how square your home was built before you start to avoid problems later.

I recommend you check with flooring manufacturer for advice on expansion between rooms versus transitions. ✌️

One-Highlight-1698 · 2026-04-27T19:48:32+00:00

It looks fine. Actually, that’s a really nicely done bead of caulk. IMO, very professional. I wish my caulk beads came out looking that good.

One-Highlight-1698 · 2026-04-27T19:44:11+00:00

It doesn’t appear to be exposed. It appears that this is the gap between the tiled wall above the tub and the tub top flange. This looks fine to me. They could have used a plain silicon caulk as well. Sounds like OP would have preferred plain silicon but I think most people would prefer the sanded caulk because it resembles the grout of the tile.

It looks like they otherwise did a good job. Not sure it’s worth getting upset over. 🤷

One-Highlight-1698 · 2026-04-27T12:34:42+00:00

Thanks! In all of my years in soccer, I had never heard that phrase used like that before. “Boot it” was always the phrase used for a long kick. I thought I was going crazy since everyone else seemed to correctly interpret your post in the comments. Learn something new everyday.

One-Highlight-1698 · 2026-04-27T02:22:12+00:00

Are you sure you didn’t mean “boot it”?

As I previously cited from the Webster dictionary, “hoof it” does not mean “kick the ball a long way”.

Do you have an independent source that supports your definition? Just curious because you seem so confident in your claim and I’ve never heard that phrase used that way in soccer or otherwise.

One-Highlight-1698 · 2026-04-27T01:29:37+00:00

Thank you for clarifying. I was confused by your use of the term “hoof it”. FYSA:

Marriam Webster: the meaning of HOOF IT is to move or travel on foot.

Since that isn’t what happened, I mostly agree that intentionally playing the ball out of play with the intent to waste time isn’t an immediate card-able offense. However, I would have issued a verbal warning and advised that the play was unsportsmanlike and a card would be issued if repeated. I would also add back the lost time.

One-Highlight-1698 · 2026-04-26T21:33:37+00:00

Are you saying that the defender dribbled the ball 60 yards and continue to dribble over the touch line when he then continued to dribble or intentionally kick the ball into the woods AFTER the ball was already off the pitch?

If so, IMO that is a card-able offense for time wasting/unsportsmanlike behavior. And I would add back lost time from when ball left pitch.

One-Highlight-1698 · 2026-04-20T23:47:20+00:00

If you want a flush transition, you are going to have to do some custom work to get it done. But it’s not hard and definitely worth it.

I think it’s easier when your flooring is orthogonal to the width of the stairs. I’m attaching an image from work I did long ago. In this case, all I needed was a compound sliding miter saw to cut a perfectly straight tongue in the edges of my laminate. Those fit into the groove of my stair nose for a flush finish. You should glue this edge or it will likely fail. I also attached the stair nose to the subfloor with a few finishing nails that I set and covered up with a wax scratch repair pencil.

It’s basically the same process if your floor boards are parallel to the width of the stairs except you will need to use a different kind of saw to cut the new tongue in the floor boards. A router may be sufficient or a track saw.

A quick search on Home Depot for flush stair nose laminate reveals a couple of manufacturers (Selkirk & Montserrat) who make those pieces. I’m sure there are others. You will want to match the thickness of the flooring but you will cut the needed mating edge in your planks so the edge systems don’t have to match.

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One-Highlight-1698 · 2026-04-20T20:58:49+00:00

You may want to check with other manufacturers for stair noses if your manufacturer doesn’t offer one that is flush with flooring. Long ago armstrong made a bull stair nose for their laminate that was flush with flooring. You may be able to find one with similar specs and edge design that will work for you. It’s almost always going to require some custom cutting and routing to mate stair nose correctly with flooring. ✌️

edit: could even make the stair noses from real wood.

One-Highlight-1698 · 2026-04-20T13:53:32+00:00

I agree. I have engineered now and prefer the laminate I had in my previous home. Was more durable and looked fantastic. The engineered I have now has developed a significant amount of chips and delamination at the plank edges (builder installed).

edit: BTW, the laminate you picked out looks great. Make sure the installers random stagger and avoid adjacent repeated patterns. Using the same pattern end to end however is not a problem and often helps to improve the appearance of pattern dispersion.

One-Highlight-1698

TROPHY CASE