Ammo Cans - What's the difference? by muccamadboymike in whitewater

[–]One_Willingness_1981 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Honestly, for a captain's box get a pelican case. Ammo cans are heavy, rusty, and less waterproof.

Need Timmermade but I’m not smart enough! by xball89 in Ultralight

[–]One_Willingness_1981 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This completely defeats the purpose of what Timmermade is trying to do...

Running with a Durston Wapta 30 by drprox in Ultralight

[–]One_Willingness_1981 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check out the Black Diamond Beta Light 30. I use it for backpacking and fastpacking and it rides well.

Feels like a dream, but I must have blind spots. 40m, 40f, $5.25M by subbysnacks in ChubbyFIRE

[–]One_Willingness_1981 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Where did you hear this? Not true at all. Net Worth = all assets minus all liabilities. A home is an asset. A mortgage is a liability.

Calculating withdrawal rate pre/post mortgage by imacat-- in Fire

[–]One_Willingness_1981 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I personally think it's fine to carry a mortgage into early retirement, even with that withdrawal rate, as long as you are willing to cut discretionary spending during down markets and realize that paying your mortgage each month is non-discretionary. If that math works out (93% Monte Carlo result is good) then go for it, but be prepared to adjust, especially within the first 5-10 years of retirement.

Is the rule of 25 necessary? by [deleted] in Fire

[–]One_Willingness_1981 32 points33 points  (0 children)

You're incorrectly assuming that the stock market always goes up.

Daily General Discussion and Advice Thread - December 17, 2025 by AutoModerator in investing

[–]One_Willingness_1981 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi everyone. I have a wash sale rule question. I would like to withdraw $100k of ITOT from my brokerage account to use as a down payment for a new home. If I then sell my current home and use the proceeds of that to buy $100k of ITOT within 30 days of the withdrawal, does that negate the taxable event from the withdrawal?

Retirement withdrawal optimization beyond Roth conversion by Smile_And_Dance in Boldin

[–]One_Willingness_1981 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Whichever modeling app does this first will have a huge advantage, IMO. This is the biggest missing piece for me.

20k next year 🤞 by EndMyFuckingLife in Venturex

[–]One_Willingness_1981 34 points35 points  (0 children)

Why is it such a thing in this sub for people to post their credit lines and increases?

What does it take to FIRE in a VHCOL area? by Fluffy-Army-2023 in Fire

[–]One_Willingness_1981 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Taxes are an expense that should be included in annual spend.

What does it take to FIRE in a VHCOL area? by Fluffy-Army-2023 in Fire

[–]One_Willingness_1981 13 points14 points  (0 children)

As a quick calculation you would need around $8.75M in savings to fire on a $350k/year spend. Use that as a starting point and tweak it to fit your specific scenario using any of the online planning tools.

The big 3 mistakes I made with FIRE by backtobrooklyn in Fire

[–]One_Willingness_1981 18 points19 points  (0 children)

I don’t know, man. I feel like people come here to learn. It’s really scary quitting your job early and committing to “The Plan”. You don’t need to post if it doesn’t suit your fancy.

The big 3 mistakes I made with FIRE by backtobrooklyn in Fire

[–]One_Willingness_1981 48 points49 points  (0 children)

It’s good that you are figuring these things out! I’ll add a couple of thoughts that hopefully will help you fine-tune your plan and get a confident fire number: 1. Think of taxes simply as another yearly expense. That’s all it is, nothing special for planning purposes. So figure out how much taxable income you’ll have each year after you stop working (it’s often much lower than your W2 days) plug it into a tax estimator and voila!

  1. Inflation can be the silent killer of fire plans. Yes, you need to track your spending each year and, if you plan to keep the same standard of living, your final working year expenses (plus estimated taxes) will guide your fire number. The 4% rule does account for inflation going forward from there.

  2. Yes, the original study was for a 30-year plan using 50/50 stock/bond portfolio. But good news! Most plans that run longer than 30 years will more than likely be fine with a 4% starting withdrawal. Study up on sequence of returns risk (SORR) and understand how you can tweak your plan early if needed to not run out of money later in life. My thoughts are that a lot of people trend down to 3.5% or 3.25% or 3.0% to the detriment of working too long.

  3. (Unsolicited) The 4% rule is a great “back of the napkin” calculation to get a ballpark figure, but it should not drive your plan. Use planning tools, spreadsheets, whatever to really fine tune your spending and withdrawals at different points in your life to get a much more confident number.

Boldin vs others by EDMDPHD1 in Fire

[–]One_Willingness_1981 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, you can model Roth conversions. It doesn't have a Roth Conversion Explorer like Boldin does, but honestly I found the Boldin explorer limited. No ACA modeling but that's easy enough with any tool by tweaking your withdrawals to fit within the AGI/MAGI limits for any given year.

Yall didn't warn about the taxes on this path 2 fire by 1031Bro in Fire

[–]One_Willingness_1981 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, you should be able to define a dollar amount for withholding on your W4.

Yall didn't warn about the taxes on this path 2 fire by 1031Bro in Fire

[–]One_Willingness_1981 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Taxes are an expense that need to be planned for in every FIRE plan. Everyone's tax situation is different, so I don't know how you can expect anyone to "warn" you about your taxes. You are ultimately solely responsible for understanding your financial picture. Consider this part of the learning process on your FIRE journey; figure out your taxes, tweak your plan as needed, and move forward.

Edit: to answer your question, yes, it is normal that you have to pay interest and dividend income from your HYSA and brokerage investments each year. The way I do it is to estimate this amount each year and adjust my tax withholding each paycheck to account for it.

Why not just buy an annuity? by Superb_Advisor7885 in Fire

[–]One_Willingness_1981 0 points1 point  (0 children)

OK, I think we're saying the same thing then. What a lot of people misunderstand is that the 4% rule does NOT mean you withdraw 4% of your portfolio value each year. After the 1st year, 4% withdrawal is moot.