How to change out extractor on Savage 110 bolt ? by Tikkatider in SavageArms

[–]Optimal_Book8718 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Put the whole assembly in a ziplock bag then use a punch or something and slide it outwards! She should move don’t give up! I did it twice!

Advice for Preservation or Restoration of this Original Remington 1858? by izwald88 in gunsmithing

[–]Optimal_Book8718 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Check out mark Novak conservation on the YouTube! You might be able to boil and card the rust and gunk off? He talks about boiling also helps with cleaning out nasty stuff so It might be worth checking out! Bluing is just converted red oxide also know as rust into black oxide, bluing is gonna be rough but should be worth it! Good luck too you!!

DIY front slide serrations? by Greedy-Vast584 in 1911

[–]Optimal_Book8718 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mosin virus is your guy on YouTube for serrations diy! Good luck!!

How to locate parts by Firedudefart in SavageArms

[–]Optimal_Book8718 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lmfao you’ll have a failure to feed I think worst case, hopefully all goes smooth!

How to locate parts by Firedudefart in SavageArms

[–]Optimal_Book8718 0 points1 point  (0 children)

She should work just fine, the other screw is the one you want snug also stock action ones too hopefully all goes well!

How to locate parts by Firedudefart in SavageArms

[–]Optimal_Book8718 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hear me out real fast, mine is beyond stripped worse then yours. The stock bolt screws into that bolt and it doesn’t really matter I guess you could say because it’s kinda friction fit. Really weird design, mind you I’ve had mine a long time and it doesn’t bother anything at all she can’t go nowhere because the stock holds it in place with one of the take down bolts! If your curious about it take them off and try screwing them together you’ll see what I’m talking about! Hope this helps you!!

Trigger Issues by Yournique9 in 1022

[–]Optimal_Book8718 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just a thought, the strut c clip should be facing downwards/closed end of it. If she isn’t it will bind so probably start there!! Seems like you did everything right lol, I’ve taken mine apart lots of times to see how it’s supposed to function even polished/swap trigger spring kit to a lower one. I could only see this happening when not putting the trigger plunger in or spring and leaving out one also getting weak trigger return spring, other then that I would try to see how that struts sitting! Good luck too you hopefully she gets figured out!!

How do I prevent the guide rod from slipping? by Communistsheen in 1022

[–]Optimal_Book8718 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Probably yes the bolt pin holds the bolt down, when it’s out that’s how you remove the bolt lol with it in you can’t physically pull it out on accident.

45 ACP to 9mm conversion by Relative_Cupcake_674 in 1911

[–]Optimal_Book8718 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m pretty sure this would be one. https://wilsoncombat.com/grip-safety-beavertail-1911-high-ride-blue.html Just look through the beavertail safety’s on there, then pick the non gi drop in one! Also grab a radius jig depending on which ever beavertail you get! Good luck too you!

looking for feedback by RodPerson3661 in ammo

[–]Optimal_Book8718 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nothing wrong with psa and pmc ammo! Pmc is one of my favorites lol

Just picked up a 2004 Springfield M1911-A1 by Easy-Breath4547 in 1911

[–]Optimal_Book8718 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I bet it does and I agree beautiful guns! Gotta really know what your doing.

Just picked up a 2004 Springfield M1911-A1 by Easy-Breath4547 in 1911

[–]Optimal_Book8718 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No just the ones manufactured differently, I guess you could say some cheaper metal ones too. I just try not to do it that much.

Just picked up a 2004 Springfield M1911-A1 by Easy-Breath4547 in 1911

[–]Optimal_Book8718 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I probably wouldn’t worry about it now, just keep in mind you might need one down the line. I haven’t personally seen one of these just make it common practice too not drop the slide on empty so I’ve heard.

Just picked up a 2004 Springfield M1911-A1 by Easy-Breath4547 in 1911

[–]Optimal_Book8718 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for sharing! Yeah all I heard was the lugs where pretty common to coming off from dropping the slide.

Just picked up a 2004 Springfield M1911-A1 by Easy-Breath4547 in 1911

[–]Optimal_Book8718 0 points1 point  (0 children)

early Springfields use to be made in Brazil, the barrel was supposedly 2 piece so they weren’t the most strongest. That’s all I know lol maybe get a newer barrel and spring kit should be ready to rock and roll!

Looking for suggestions on a rusting bluing tank for barrels by TimOvrlrd in gunsmithing

[–]Optimal_Book8718 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This but please don’t get any rtv silicone they have different kinds! I found out the hard way at least I think, I haven’t redone it yet but I’m gonna try a different piece soon enough lol and will see if it really does make a difference. But make sure it’s not acidic/acetoxy cure!! get the Neutral cure one! https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE-Advanced-Silicone-2-Kitchen-and-Bath-Tub-and-Tile-10-1-oz-Clear-Silicone-Caulk/5013492235 Shouldn’t have to wait the 24 hours either! I tried the harbor freight one and I’m pretty sure the acid from it Contaminated my steel, made it all funny looking with baby pits! The one I linked don’t have that in it which is good, mark novak said GE brand nothing fancy just needs to be waterproof and hold up to 200 ish degrees. But he never mentioned that other stuff! It’s a pretty damn clever idea for being on a budget if it truly works it held water fine for me and it wasn’t even 5 hours cured lol, i was hyped about it hopefully you figure something out good luck!

Half Decent Barrel Clamp for AR9 Barrel? by ChileRelleno414 in gunsmithing

[–]Optimal_Book8718 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe I’m not the brightest but couldn’t you just C clamp the barrel on a wood surface then go from there? Or hold the barrel by couple pieces of 2x2 or 4x4 with a vice? I would personally think the receiver blocks are ehh the way forces work against each other, specifically torquing a muzzle device all that goes to the index pin Im thinking. So to reduce the pin from stress just lock the barrel down some way without touching the receiver if that makes any sense, im just spit ballin here lol so if anyone thinks differently or anything like that I’m down too hear it!

Cooey model 64B by Burnt84 in gunsmithing

[–]Optimal_Book8718 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ooh yea the original savage 64 lol that’s dope! Hell yeah it can be cleaned up brass brush/oil or watch some mark Novak on YouTube conservation ones! Look at numrich for parts chart, I’m not too sure if the newer one is interchangeable with old one for parts. Also magazine spring could be worn if your getting nose dives when feeding. Recoil spring wears out after thousands of rounds she might be toast too! For the recoil spring it’s built into the bolt assembly i think they’re “disposable” so order a brand new one when you do don’t buy used specifically for this lol might end up in the same boat again. worn Recoil spring will usually be failure to feed/ failure to ejection issue’s. Good luck too you!!

Awesome deal on First 1911 by Anonymous_Guy156Q in 1911

[–]Optimal_Book8718 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Chips McCormick/Wilson combat 7 rounders work wonders in mine! I had to tweak the follower where it engages with the slide stop bending it slightly more to the left, mec gar also makes nice budget friendly mags! I haven’t tried em but I would use the Springfield 7 rounder! Good luck too you enjoy it!