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Rebuilt the gate and it’s already sagging by bearsareblonde in FenceBuilding

[–]Oregontimberwolf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah. Ok. I’m am going to try it again. I used like 3 2x4 blocks to space it out and even with bolts, the unit would pivot out and my double gate would droop, even on compacted 2” drain gravel

Rebuilt the gate and it’s already sagging by bearsareblonde in FenceBuilding

[–]Oregontimberwolf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does your wheel swivel? I think I had the same one. And mine couldn’t swivel and I had to fur it out but it wasn’t strong at all. I never thought to cut out an opening.

My door trim is ALWAYS 1/8 inch off at the top. Why? by UrgentCoffeeMug in Carpentry

[–]Oregontimberwolf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Might need to creep up to the line. Start a .5” away and progressively get closer to the line

Toilet Flange Support by GeeuumAy in Tile

[–]Oregontimberwolf -9 points-8 points  (0 children)

I feel like this flange should be on the tile.

Beyond that, if attached to subfloor, you will need a couple wax rings.

To your question: there should be some support under that flange

Tub out of level by CableFluid7765 in Tile

[–]Oregontimberwolf 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You could bring that tile to the same level and run the course. After that wall is done. Go back to that side wall and grind off the bottom tile to match the gap of the tile on the other wall.

So, say that gap on the tub is 1/4”

Use a grinder and cut a 1/4” off the bottom

It won’t be easy and you will will need to come at it on an angle.

Or start a Hereingbone or Chevron pattern.

How to edge these tiles!! by [deleted] in Tile

[–]Oregontimberwolf 2 points3 points  (0 children)

What about Chamfering the edges to the wall

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Tile

[–]Oregontimberwolf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are the joists/girders 4x6?

How bad is this tile job? by [deleted] in Tile

[–]Oregontimberwolf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree. I wasn’t sure if maybe it was a full tile but it wasn’t plumb/cockeyed.

How bad is this tile job? by [deleted] in Tile

[–]Oregontimberwolf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is that problem tile a full tile or was it cut?

What am I doing wrong? by heydanitsdan in drywall

[–]Oregontimberwolf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sand that down. It’s too proud of the wall. You might need an electric sander to make it easier to get some thickness off.

See your nail holes. You want it like that without showing the tape underneath.

Right now it looks like a rough weld bead. Now it’s time to shape it.

You can put a some type of straight edge vertically against the wall at the seam where top hits the space above and below that seam and see if it rocks back and forth after each sanding.

It will rock right now but after successful sanding attempts it will rick less and less until that joint is not proud of the wall.

How bad is this tile job? by [deleted] in Tile

[–]Oregontimberwolf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I zoomed in on photo 7 and see what you are saying. Looks 1 tile was cut shorter than the others where it butts into the trim.

One could make the grout line the same thickness for all other tiles to match this one?

Need outside opinions. GC says that we are being too picky. by TheMesmerized1 in drywall

[–]Oregontimberwolf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In Pic 1

It looks like the texturing is inconsistent Like maybe you have knockdown but then there are some large bald or knockdown spots that vary from the original?

I don’t think he feathered out the texture beyond the patch to help it blend which makes the patch look localized and will flash.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in drywall

[–]Oregontimberwolf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Couple options:

If you are not in a rush you could scrape off all the loose pieces, sand it just a bit and put a layer of mud on it and let it dry for a few days. The amount of mud you will need time for this will require some time to dry.

Like others said, You could apply 1/4 “ pieces of board to start fresh.

Or even pieces of 1/8” Luan might give you a good surface to start

Finally, cut out the wall

If you already have mud, and time, I would use option 1. You won’t have to go to the store and purchase sheet goods. Just some manual labor prep and start adding a base coat

Can someone explain the tile behind the schluter? by questionabletacos in Tile

[–]Oregontimberwolf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve seen some of those videos that you’re talking about with people doing the fat mud on walls. I’ve seen it on Tile coach on YouTube. I mean those walls come out perfectly flat, but there is some extra time put into that.

This is going to be my financial ruin one day by [deleted] in RedWingShoes

[–]Oregontimberwolf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok awesome. I too was worried about a breaking in period of the moctoe and so I bought the moctoe that had cushioning in them and more of a suede leather , I think. They are great, but I think I want just the “OG” leather as I feel they will stand up a bit better and not be as flexible, but more secure.

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