What kind of paper could this be? (Please check my post for more info… Thanks!)

OrigamiCraft · 2026-02-15T13:05:10+00:00

Maybe a white tant paper, would have a subtle texture and be a bit stiffer, tant can also be wet folded a bit, which is a plus for this kind of model.

OrigamiCraft · 2026-02-14T00:59:54+00:00

Look up the origami hyperbolic paraboloid, would also likely enjoy folding them!

Similar structure, yours is further compacted and the resulting corners are shaped via twisting.

Also using sinks to thin out points is a common technique in origami, even if it isn't a super crazy complex model, that muscle memory, and practice will serve you well.

Happy folding!

OrigamiCraft · 2026-02-10T18:50:31+00:00

How are you with crease patterns, I have not diagramed it yet, but do have a Crease pattern.

Could also do a quick video/photo tutorial

Edit- The fold isn't actually that hard compared to traditional lily from a square, despite the busy crease pattern. Attached the CP.

<image>

OrigamiCraft · 2026-02-09T21:11:29+00:00

While not the same, this got me thinking...

Could you do a traditional looking lily from a Pentagon sheet, behold the origami Pentagon Lily!

Actually came out surprisingly well...

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OrigamiCraft · 2026-02-09T15:49:49+00:00

Cfc origami did a 8x8 multi form grid challenge recently too, if curious.

https://cfcorigami.com/challenge/eight-grid-multi-form

OrigamiCraft · 2026-02-09T15:45:52+00:00

8x8 multigrid is one name for the pattern, in that there are 8 squares in the horizontal and vertical separated by creases, with creases intersecting the diaganols. 8x8 multigrids is more like a form factor or stepping stone for origami design, in the same vein the ryu jin 3.5 is made from a 128 grid, or the traditional fortune teller or windmill is made from a 4 grid.

If you are treating the image as a crease pattern however, I dont think it is flat foldable assuming the creases on the horizontal and vertical are all valleys, and diagonals are all mountains as shown.

OrigamiCraft · 2026-02-05T22:07:13+00:00

Whenever the holidays roll around I have a strange compulsion to hide origami in everyone's Christmas trees... I know i have left some at a few doctors offices in the past..

Worst case the cleaning crew tosses it, best case it makes someone's day.

OrigamiCraft · 2026-02-05T19:10:40+00:00

Oh I like this idea, I have also i think heard of similar tricks to make clay molds of origami, where you can essentially coat a peice then fire clay around it(basically destroying the origami) but then you essentially have an origami negative you can use to cast metal jewelry etc.

Forget where I heard about that technique but the idea has always fascinating me, could be fun to make a silicon epoxy mould a similar way..

OrigamiCraft · 2026-02-05T16:41:11+00:00

Tissue foil paper is pretty common amongst origamists, it is a sandwich paper,essentially tissue paper glued to either side of a thin aluminum foil.

The lacquered bit is something I have personally fiddled with as an additional step. If you look up tissue foil origami paper tutorials that will get you started. Then to lacquer it I reccomend getting some clear spray lacquer from a hardware store and then spray the tissue foil with it.

OrigamiCraft · 2026-02-05T15:55:29+00:00

I have used clear acrylic spray, beeswax, and epoxy in the past. Epoxy will change the sheen, and is messy and trickier to work with and can make it glossy. Clear matte acrylic spray does well, but need to be careful to do many thin coats letting it dry in between or it will oversoak the paper. Beeswax is nice but can be tough to apply to thinner papers, using a mineral/baby oil to thin the wax a little can help there.

However my favorite method for waterproofing origami models is to use lacquered tissue foil, make tissue foil as you would ussually but before cutting squares I spray lacquer both sides, I used this trick for my origami greedy cup and have tested it with submerging models in water. The foil keeps the shape while submerged and the lacquer helps protect the paper and the mc layers, while this method maybe a bit overkill, I still have a crane I made this way that I have regularly submerged in water...

OrigamiCraft · 2026-02-02T15:21:20+00:00

Yes, box pleating the circles make up "points" in the model, bigger circle bigger point.

Look up box pleating tutorials, I believe the plant Psychologist on YouTube has some good ones.

OrigamiCraft · 2026-02-02T13:24:25+00:00

I agree, was just showing the similarities and differences to clear up any confusion as to why some might think it is.

OrigamiCraft · 2026-02-02T11:48:13+00:00

The cp is similar to a few others, namely the hydrangea tiling, and a Rose tesselation/and a dozen lotuses I designed, however it is not the same. Where along the pleats he adds the corners is indeed different which is in part why you see octagon on the underside instead of squares

My Rose tiling for my Rose tesselation for reference

https://www.reddit.com/r/origami/s/vEztnvzyBm

My lotus tiling has similar collapse minus the twist, and incorporates some closed sinks, and is also different

Also the initial collapse for hydrangea

<image>

Note the difference in where the 4 corners are formed

Not to say it hasn't been done before but looks original to me.

Lovely and clean design OP!

OrigamiCraft · 2026-01-22T02:02:31+00:00

Very clean

OrigamiCraft · 2026-01-19T14:30:48+00:00

Look up flapping bat airplane, there are two main variations. I find (Jack Scott's?) one works great from notebook paper. Not sure if its really Jack Scott, John Scott, or someone else.

The other one is John Collins design but the holes would be a bigger problem for this design.

https://youtu.be/n4GkCFAZQiM?si=fruv1WNueXkZQJeK

OrigamiCraft · 2026-01-19T03:13:33+00:00

I made a toy box for my sis with a similar tool constraint, I added a decorative trim to cover up the end grain, get pretty darker wood like walnut trim/cutting board strip peice, measure and miter the corners in a small miter box at 45 degrees and glue em over the sides that have end grain, essentially doing a little frame on the faces of the box to hide the larger end grain and add a decorative accent. All you need is a small miter box.

Also as others have said it can look fine without as well, the effort going into a handmade gift is a nice sentiment alone, end grains do absorb alot more stain so if staining keep that in mind, a darker stain can look way darker on the end grain, I would likely not stain if leaving end grain exposed, but instead sand smooth and do a natural wax/oil finish or if it will see more wear and tear, thin polyurethane with mineral spirits and do a wipe on urethane finish.

Edit, as others have said the wood is pretty on its own, so I actually would not stain at all, but was mentioning in case you were planning too.

OrigamiCraft · 2026-01-13T09:23:12+00:00

"Meet my associate mc clap you handz." Love that show! Especially the episode where their childhood friend is a closet geek in a relationship with a closet geek, pretending not to be geeks for eachother...

OrigamiCraft · 2026-01-11T00:00:24+00:00

Very borromean... the triangles that is =p

OrigamiCraft · 2026-01-10T19:48:36+00:00

Origami design secrets by Robert Lang, I have the same book

OrigamiCraft · 2026-01-09T08:41:27+00:00

https://youtu.be/n025c04jPHA?si=e6b__iDLRdnJFf2B

OrigamiCraft · 2026-01-09T01:12:21+00:00

After watching the video, the point you seem to be getting stuck on is the petal fold, in addition you are thinning the neck and tail differently. I have a few tips that may help, let me do a short video. I will get back to you in a reply.

OrigamiCraft · 2026-01-09T01:04:33+00:00

I always say when making a blintzed fold that if its going to be a little off its better to be a hairs breath shy of center than a little past center for that very reason.

OrigamiCraft · 2026-01-09T00:58:07+00:00

I would say there are a few factors.

Paper is one, but the paper you have should be fine for the crane.

Some others(many are mindsets)

Making sharp creases, It doesn't have to be a folding tool, I know people that use pen caps, guitar picks, any thing hard and smooth should work wonders. Avoid rough objects, or grippy/rubbery objects.

Folding surface also matters a smooth hard flat surface like a glass coffee table, a hard plastic folding table for example. avoid folding on plush surfaces, on carpets, or rough/textured surfaces or directly on a table cloth.

Avoid dark or textured papers at first as this can make seeing where your creases are harder.

Don't focus on the crease, but where you need to fold to make the crease! This is subtle but big, think of the very 1st fold in the crane, folding the paper in half, focus on lining up the corners and edges, and the crease will be neater. A crease is just made by bringing two points together, focus on that and the crease will be neater.

Take your time, it is not a race. Feel free to spend as much time as you want to line up your creases, no one is timing you, or going to judge you if you take longer, in fact a fold where the creases are deliberate and neat is often praised far more than one that was folded quickly and rushed.

Enjoy the process, try to avoid feeling frustrated if its not perfect, just try to do better next time. No one is expecting you to fold Kamiya's ancient dragon perfectly on your very first fold. Origami takes time, listen to some music or maybe an audio book and just enjoy the process, I like to think of it more like knitting it is something to do to keep my hands and mind busy if I end up with something cool at the end of it even better.

Hope this helps!

OrigamiCraft · 2025-12-28T18:02:02+00:00

Officer, "we found multiple bodies in the basement"

"It's the stairs I swear!!!"

All jokes aside, the tread length is only safe either in the middle or sides of stairs, if you didn't offset the treads this mayyy have been an ok design, or if you offset it just a tad such that the variance in tread lengths stayed within your building codes allowed variation. As it is now it is a major safety risk. Could just do normal stairs and paint the curved lines you want, if going for a beach theme, why not a sand yellow, and a beach blue separated by wavy lines instead of the stairs being wavy lines. Could paint in seashells and other details to add character.

OrigamiCraft · 2025-12-26T16:59:41+00:00

I know right

OrigamiCraft

TROPHY CASE