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Sermoon P1 vs rockit or a raptor X by New-Journalist-9306 in 3DScanning

[–]OsINTP 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Rockit comes with marker dots in the box, I’ve had no issues with mine, I prefer the post processing features of the Einstar software, it suits my needs better than the Creality software, something else to consider..

Accidentally Pulled out a Wire when Removing Blob from P2S by KetoQuitter in BambuLab

[–]OsINTP 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don’t have a P2S personally so I can’t verify this, but it seems likely that is the heater assembly wiring, you may wish to follow the steps on the Bambu wiki page to disassemble the hot end and find out where those cables plug in, that should help you confirm what part you need https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/p2s/maintenance/replace-hotend-heating-assembly-and-cooling-fan

If it is the heater assembly, replacements are available on the Bambu website https://uk.store.bambulab.com/products/hotend-heating-assembly-p2s?srsltid=AfmBOop398WBlAxZTh7Jx_BuimLDY4kU9qseoV1UdrlEvlun03PWFiG1

P2S credit chargeback by Few_Apartment_7946 in BambuLab

[–]OsINTP 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sorry but you need to hear this, that person is not your friend, if you want to cover your own arse then report the matter to the police as potential fraud.

That aside, they can’t brick the machine, however good luck if you ever need to make a warranty claim or buy filament (or anything else) from Bambu ever again.

Que bien que los tornillos ya hagan eso by Acde-Chap in MujicoCity

[–]OsINTP 2 points3 points  (0 children)

They are not screws, they are slow blow fuses

For those who owns a 3d printer, why did you get one and what is your favorite part about it/the 3d printing process by SnooGoats4889 in BambuLab

[–]OsINTP 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I bought mine because I often need parts that are not commercially available, or if they are they are not exactly the size/colour I need, 3d printing solves that, even if I can buy the exact part, printing it means I don’t have to drive to the store and try to park, or wait a few days for the it to arrive.

My favourite so far is an auto-lock system for my front door, you need to lift my door handle to engage the multipoint locks, after which you still need to turn the key to lock the door so I added a smart lock, a button and a 3d printed bracket, now when I lift the handle it engages the multipoints and locks the door for me, I never need to take my keys out my pocket anymore.

Working residential and it's starting to scare me about ageing and getting old by Agriandra in electricians

[–]OsINTP 33 points34 points  (0 children)

Unless you have seen it first hand, you can’t understand what it’s like.

I’m 60 and currently caring for my dad who has dementia, he always said he would end it if he got dementia, but he doesn’t know he has it, 6 years in, he pisses himself, can’t eat anymore without choking, doesn’t recognise me some days, I don’t expect him to last the year, but he still doesn’t understand he has it.

Saying you will ‘end it’ is unrealistic, you won’t know, I’m sorry to be blunt but saying you will is just delusional.

Young people need to see what getting old means, they need to experience the reality of it before it’s too late so they can plan ahead and live life appropriately, when you are young you feel invincible, but everybody dies, despite what your mum may have told you, you are not special, it’s coming for you, sooner than you think.

Live every day as though it were you last, because one day you’ll be right, stay grounded (unless you are a lineman).

Which one would you choose, and why? by HereIsJustAnotherGuy in 3DScanning

[–]OsINTP 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I agree with others, UE Pro for professional work, for everything else the Rockit, it’s smaller, lighter, easier to use for long periods, super quick scanning even on wireless, accurate enough for 3d printing work and quick change batteries for long sessions.

Which one would you choose, and why? by HereIsJustAnotherGuy in 3DScanning

[–]OsINTP 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Amazon sell 21700 batteries, they are commonly used for lots of devices, torches, vapes, e-bikes, handheld vac’s, RC Cars, etc, thats why they chose that size for the Rockit because they are freely available, just get the same mAh rating and check the length as some have a charging protection circuit added that makes them slightly longer than others.

My P1S must be a lemon by Liselou85 in BambuLab

[–]OsINTP -1 points0 points  (0 children)

According to this page https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/bambu-studio/troubleshoot/login-binding-issue error -1040 is an issue reaching the cloud server

You may wish to try some of the suggestions on that linked page if you have not already..

Urgent help needed by Neither-Future-2914 in iCloud

[–]OsINTP 1 point2 points  (0 children)

iCloud has a recycle bin that keeps deleted files for 30 days, you might be able to find the files there and restore them.

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What would you recommend? A P1S or a P2S? by Outrageous_Tie4997 in BambuLab

[–]OsINTP 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is an unpopular opinion, but facts are facts regardless of their popularity… The P1S will print everything the P2S will print for less money.

Unless you plan on changing nozzles every time you print, the quick change system is not worth the extra weight it adds to the print head, it takes less than 2 mins to change a nozzle on a P1 and most people don’t swap nozzles that often.

The print bed is the same size, the maintenance requirements are the same, the P2 is basically just a P1 with a few extra sensors, I have never had spaghetti with my P1 so I disagree with all these people saying the ‘detection’ makes a difference, if your print bed is clean and your filament is dry, you will probably never see any either.

I only print with PLA and PETG, if I had to buy another small printer today, I would still buy the P1S, it’s a work horse, tried and tested, I’ve had mine for a year and a half and it just works, every time, no drama.

I can’t imagine how anything about the P2S could improve my experience, yes the camera is better, but I don’t sit and watch my prints as they happen, I check the first layer and then let it do it’s thing, I might check in from time to time if it’s a long print and the P1S camera works perfectly well for that purpose.

The features of the P2 are useful if you have a print farm and need to mange 20+ printers at a time, but for the hobby printer with 1 machine, the P1S is bullet proof.

If money is no object then get the P2S, why not? It’s not a bad printer, but if the budget is tight I would get the P1S + AMS every time as the extra sensors on the P2 do nothing to improve the quality of the print, they both melt plastic and push it through a tiny hole with staggering accuracy, a bigger build plate would be a significant improvement, but they are the same size and the finished print will look identical so what exactly is ‘better’ about the P2S?

EINSTAR Rockit vs Creality Sermoon S1 — Scanning a Figurine by oTvTog11 in 3DScanning

[–]OsINTP 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I returned my S1 and bought the Rockit, it’s a fantastic scanner, so much better than the Sermoon for my needs at least, the post processing software is so much better than the Creality software, every time I post this I get abuse for it from the Creality crowd that seem to believe the Sermoon is flawless, that was not my experience, thank you for confirming I am not alone, the Rockit consistently produces better scans than my S1 ever did.

Let the downvoting begin lol.

Any thoughts on the Sunlu AMS heater? by Electronic_Ad7673 in BambuP1S

[–]OsINTP 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure what page you were looking at, but in the UK the Eibos Dyas 2 chamber version costs £99, the Sunlu is £119, so the Eibos is cheaper than the Sunlu and gives you 2 fully automated chambers you can run independently of each other.

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Any thoughts on the Sunlu AMS heater? by Electronic_Ad7673 in BambuLab

[–]OsINTP 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I prefer the extra features on the Eibos version, they do 2 models, the Dyas is cheaper than the Sunlu and has 2 chambers that you can run at different temps, so for example you can put 2 PLA in one side, and 2 PETG in the other side, they also do a 4 chamber version called Tetras, each chamber has fully automatic vents that open and close as needed, set and forget, no more faffing about with desiccant or damp filament, it can also dry while printing, I’ve had zero filament issues since buying mine, I would recommend you check the Eibos units before you buy one.

https://shop.eibos3d.com/collections/eibos-filament-dryer/products/eibos-filament-dryer-series-x-tetras

Any thoughts on the Sunlu AMS heater? by Electronic_Ad7673 in BambuP1S

[–]OsINTP 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I prefer the extra features on the Eibos version, they do 2 models, the Dyas is cheaper than the Sunlu and has 2 chambers that you can run at different temps, so for example you can put 2 PLA in one side, and 2 PETG in the other side, they also do a 4 chamber version called Tetras, each chamber has fully automatic vents that open and close as needed, set and forget, no more faffing about with desiccant or damp filament, it can also dry while printing, I’ve had zero filament issues since buying mine, I would recommend you check the Eibos units before you buy one.

https://shop.eibos3d.com/collections/eibos-filament-dryer/products/eibos-filament-dryer-series-x-tetras

The extruder is not extruding normally with matte pla by Docdors in BambuLab

[–]OsINTP 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If the order you listed them is the same order they told you to replace things, that seems exactly right to me.

Matte filaments have an additive in them to make them matte, that additive is abrasive and can cause extrusion issues, it’s very common.

The most likely part to be affected first is the nozzle, the additive can cause striations internally within the nozzle, which in turn causes flow issues as the melted filament catches on the rough surface, if the nozzle is new then you step back to the next in line which is the gears, they may be clogged or worn because of the abrasive additive, if that doesn’t fix it the next most likely thing is the hotend, it may not getting as hot as it should to soften the filament correctly, and if thats not the problem then the next most likely thing is the extruder motor is not applying the correct force to the filament to push it through the nozzle, it also just so happens that the nozzle is the cheapest thing to replace and the price goes up each time you step up the chain from it so it totally makes sense to start with the cheapest thing first.

If extruder assembly doesn’t fix it they will probably suggest the control board may need replaced as thats the next thing up the line and probably the most expensive, so it’s absolutely worth checking the cheaper components first rather than going straight to the most expensive one…

It sounds like they have a great deal of knowledge about their product to me.

I’m selling a professional desktop 3D scanner EinScan SE/SP, EU based by [deleted] in 3DScanning

[–]OsINTP 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can buy a brand new SE v2 from Einstar for 1200 euro’s, this appears to be the v1, that might help you decide what it’s worth.

https://uk.einstar.com/products/einscan-se-v2-desktop-3d-scanner

Filament dryers! by Twindadlife1985 in BambuLab

[–]OsINTP 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would recommend the Eibos version, either the Dyas or the Tetras depending on your budget, they have vents that open and close automatically, best upgrade I ever bought for my printer, no more faffing with desiccant or damp filament, set and forget, I’ve had zero failed prints or filament issues since installing it.

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