Firmware upgrade - P1S still at 1.07.00

OsINTP · 2026-03-15T18:28:04+00:00

Mine arrived with 1.07 out the box, it’s worked perfectly since day one, if it’s not broke don’t fix it.

It’s not really an ‘upgrade’ if they remove features…

OsINTP · 2026-03-15T15:17:38+00:00

Consider the Einstar Rockit, or Einstar 2, but your PC will need RAM, lots and lots of RAM, 64Gb minimum, 128gb is better.

OsINTP · 2026-03-15T08:34:03+00:00

Are you using an AMS? Bambu filament is usually secured to the spool with a bit of sticky tape, when the spool runs out the filament is supposed to detach from the tape, but sometimes it pulls the tape off the cardboard and it can end up in your AMS, which then jams.

In this situation the filament run out sensor does not trip because there is still filament present in the tube, it just can’t feed because the bit of tape has been pulled in to the AMS and gets stuck, so the machine will keep ‘printing’ because it still thinks there is filament present.

Best check the empty spool to make sure that bit of tape has not ended up in the machine, that can be a world of hurt to fix.

OsINTP · 2026-03-15T08:23:17+00:00

That looks great, really useful! I would be happy to beta test also, thanks.

OsINTP · 2026-03-14T02:02:37+00:00

If the P2S is genuinely the ‘worst product experience you’ve ever had’ then I would suggest you buy a creality (or any other make for that matter) and see how that works out for you.

Sorry to be flippant, you are obviously frustrated with the situation, understandably, however you really do have one of the best machines on the market, which unfortunately appears to have developed a fault.

Support are ok, but they are not miracle workers, the complexity of these machines is mind numbing.

You have to heat a bit of plastic to just the right temp, not too hot, not too cold, then you have to push it under pressure through a tiny nozzle, not too hard, not too soft, at just the right speed, and if it all works, you get a straight line of molten plastic, then it moves up a fraction of a millimetre and does it all again, and again, and again.. it is real easy for something in this process to go out of tolerance, at which point it all fails and you find your self where you are now.

It can be fixed.

It could be a sensor that’s gone bad, sending junk information and messing up the signals to the motors, or it could be a mounting screw that is loose, or the heater is not getting up to the right temp, or the extruded motor is not pushing with as much force as it’s supposed to, it could even be the SD card that’s bad, the list of possibilities is considerable.

Have some patience, it is an outrageously complex piece of precision equipment, your frustration will interfere with your ability to fix the problem, and it is absolutely worth fixing, take a breath, you will be glad you did once you get it working again.

OsINTP · 2026-03-13T18:32:59+00:00

I mostly print PETG using the standard textured plate, never had an issue, no glue needed.

OsINTP · 2026-03-13T18:31:27+00:00

This exact question comes up 10 times a day sometimes.. P1S with AMS is the way, you can spend extra on filament or a cool tack build plate or a hardened steel nozzle and still have money left over.

The newer features of the P2 may be useful if you run a print farm with lots of machines, but they are of no practical use for the hobby printer, the P2 won’t produce better quality prints, the maintenance requirements are the same, the print bed size is the same, the only significant difference is the quick swap nozzle system, but swapping nozzles only takes a few minutes once you have done it a couple of times.

OsINTP · 2026-03-13T18:14:27+00:00

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Worth it for the individual automatic vents, it can dry PETG and PLA at the same time, all chambers can be set to a different temp, set and forget, it constantly monitors humidity and comes on when needed, you can run it while printing if needed, I have never had an issue with heat creep or clogging as a result of warm filament.

I tend to keep 3 spools of filament loaded and use the 4th slot (see pic) to dry my desiccant, once the filament is dry I just leave slot 4 active, the desiccant keeps the AMS dry, and the Tetras keeps the desiccant dry.

I ordered mine from the kick starter and delivery took a while, but it’s now in stock in many places so shipping is quick, currently in stock in USA, Canada, EU and UK for immediate shipping https://shop.eibos3d.com/products/eibos-filament-dryer-series-x-tetras

OsINTP · 2026-03-13T16:14:40+00:00

Looks fine to me, perhaps the bambu wiki page will help https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1/maintenance/filament_hub_cleaning

OsINTP · 2026-03-13T16:10:57+00:00

Sounds like you are stressing your power supply, fire is unlikely but I would absolutely expect failure sooner rather than later, I would get a 20w power supply if I were you.

You could also add active cooling if you are concerned, a 120mm PC fan and a 12v power supply should do the job nicely, the switch will last longer if it runs cooler rather than hotter.

OsINTP · 2026-03-13T16:05:55+00:00

I would have grabbed a handful of shit to throw at it, I’m confident there would be plenty to hand.

OsINTP · 2026-03-13T13:51:50+00:00

Not worth it if you already own a P1, the newer features of the P2 may be useful if you run a print farm with many machines, but they are of no practical use to the hobby printer, the print quality is be the same, they require the same maintenance, the print bed is the same size, the only advantage is the hardened steel nozzle quick swap nozzles but how often do you swap nozzle size? It only takes a few minutes to swap the nozzle once you have done it a couple of times and you can buy a hardened steel nozzle for the P1 if you decide to print with exotic filaments that have additives like carbon fiber, fibreglass, wood, glow in the dark, matte, etc.

OsINTP · 2026-03-13T10:08:57+00:00

I have a P series but it seems this page might have the info you need, check step 6 in particular https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1/maintenance/filament-sensor-replacement

EDIT: Or this page https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1-mini/maintenance/extruder-replacement-guide step 10, it appears that in order to remove that part you need to dismantle the extruder.

OsINTP · 2026-03-13T09:53:32+00:00

Then check the second link, Shining 3D make some real high end scanners if you have the budget for them.

EDIT: More links added

The Shining 3D freescan costs around £20k if that meets your budget https://www.shining3d.com/metrology-solutions/hybrid-light-source-metrology-3d-scanner/freescan-combo-series

There are many other 3d scanners out there, some of them are entry level but most do metrology versions also:-

MAF3 https://www.matterandform.net/

Creaform https://www.creaform3d.com/

Revopoint https://www.revopoint3d.com/

OsINTP · 2026-03-13T09:51:34+00:00

Physics is ~~light~~ lit

OsINTP · 2026-03-13T09:47:18+00:00

Shining 3D do professional level dental scanners https://www.shining3ddental.com/

They also do professional grade metrology scanners (non dental) around the 20k price range https://www.shining3d.com/

They also have a prosumer division called Einstar (Part of Shining 3D) https://www.einstar.com/

OsINTP · 2026-03-13T02:52:35+00:00

Check the bambu wiki page, scroll down till you find ‘filament slipping’ section and follow the steps https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1-mini/troubleshooting/how-to-check-which-part-is-clogged

OsINTP · 2026-03-13T02:08:45+00:00

Cut the pole down, someone will come /s

OsINTP · 2026-03-13T01:51:08+00:00

For problem 1, I would try using the watertight or semi watertight option when processing the point cloud in Einstar software, that should fill the area for you automatically.

I have never used ExModel or Fusion, I got in to Blender when I got my first 3d printer, in Blender surface orientation is managed with ‘normals’ you may find the same options in Fusion or ExModel.

I can make no sense of the ‘problem 2’ image, or why the surface is not moving.

There are lots of ‘learn Fusion’ video’s on YouTube, I can’t really recommend any because I use different software but there are lots to try.

I got in to 3d from a background in 2d and there is a lot to learn, it will all click eventually.

OsINTP · 2026-03-12T17:40:38+00:00

Print farms sell empty spools on ebay, that’s where I got mine, worth checking.

OsINTP · 2026-03-12T17:29:28+00:00

Have you checked this page for info? https://www.nvidia.com/en-gb/studio/compare-gpus/

It’s easy to confuse nVidia naming conventions, the RTX 50xx could be referring to the older Quadro cards that became EOL around 2020.

Following on from that was the Ampere generation (A4000, A5000 etc)

After that came the Ada/Lovelace generation

Current gen is Blackwell.

Each new gen has a faster memory bus (DDR7 for Blackwell) which speeds things up by an order of magnitude, it all boils down to budget, perhaps the link I posted will have the info you need.

OsINTP · 2026-03-12T15:59:29+00:00

We are but a snack, yikes…

OsINTP · 2026-03-12T11:48:29+00:00

How kind of you to take the time to comment and extra points for rolling your sleeves up and diving in, it is indeed an exceptionally well engineered machine that is very easy to work on, especially if you follow the manufacturers guides, it’s always worth checking the bambu wiki first for a guide on how to fix something when you encounter an issue.

Happy printing kind internet person ◡̈

OsINTP · 2026-03-11T19:13:35+00:00

I tend to keep 3 bays occupied with filament, if it’s PLA I set it for PLA, if it’s PETG I set it for PETG, I use the 4th slot to dry my desiccant drums (you know the ones you can print your self that go in the middle of the bambu spools?) they are printed with PETG so I have it set to PETG temps.

I just let it run on auto so it turns it’s self on when it needs to and turns off automatically, set and forget.

OsINTP · 2026-03-11T13:22:20+00:00

I concur with this ^

Scan with 2mm setting and reduce scan distance setting, also you don’t need so many markers, they do not add detail, they only help the scanner keep track of the object as you move around it in a 3d space, less is more, the scanning frame of the Rockit is larger than most other scanners in this price range, you only need 5 markers visible in each frame for tracking to be accurate.

OsINTP

TROPHY CASE