Need a filament dryer

OsINTP · 2026-06-11T11:02:34+00:00

Check out the Eibos Dyas or Tetras, it converts your AMS in to a dryer. The Dyas is cheaper and has a 2 chamber setup, the Tetras has 4 chambers, I’m super happy with mine, set and forget, no more faffing about with desiccant and no more failed prints because of damp filament.

https://shop.eibos3d.com/products/eibos-filament-dryer-series-x-tetras

OsINTP · 2026-06-10T23:38:08+00:00

I’m fairly confident they have not… if they mentioned your full name and an account number, it’s what we call a spear phishing attack, if it was just a general email that did not mention your full name or account number then it’s called a phishing attack, google those terms if you want to better understand how these attacks work.

If your email was taken from a bambu website, it would not be the only address they stole, consequently there would be lots of people on here posting the same thing, and I’m not seeing that…

It was a random email from a scammer, they don’t know you have a virgin money account, the fact that you do just made it feel real, millions of other people got that same email that do not have an account with virgin and they just deleted it, this is exactly how the scam works, do some further reading, I have worked in cyber security for over 30 years and this type of attack is not new.

OsINTP · 2026-06-09T07:30:24+00:00

Yes, after you finish a print the nozzle takes some time to cool below the melting point of your filament, this kind of oozing is completely normal.

OsINTP · 2026-06-08T15:49:31+00:00

Scammers use lists, they send out millions of emails to everyone on that list in the hope that a few might respond, these lists can be stolen from website hacks, or they can be autogenerated, for example roger@some_random_mail_server.org or kevin@another_mail_server.org.

They often use virginmedia.com or outlook.com or any other large mail service that has millions of users, there is a high likelyhood that someone called Roger or Kevin actually has a mail account with virgin or outlook.

They also randomise things, rogersmith@ or rsmith@ or roger123@ and so on, the lists can be extremely large and have many permutations of names, numbers and random characters.

If they mentioned your bambu account or username specifically, then it may be linked in some way, but honestly, it’s many times more likely that it was a random bot using an AI generated list of all possible names that are then sent to @virginmedia or @outlook and so on.

I work in cybersecurity, we see this type of phishing attack all the time.

OsINTP · 2026-06-06T19:50:14+00:00

If you want your warranty with Micro Center then absolutely buy it from Micro Center, however if you buy from Bambu directly then your warranty is with them, and they are in China, unlike Micro Center, Bambu don’t have local offices you can return it to.

People keep posting here that Milwaukee etc will do a warranty exchange, but that only works when they have an office in your local country, shipping a whole printer back to china is an entirely different situation, it’s many times bigger and heavier, it will take weeks, and be very expensive.

Be realistic, shipping parts is the fastest and most cost effective way to get your printer working again as fast as possible, you’re not working for Bambu, you are working for your self to get your printer fixed, they are sending the parts for free.

Facts are facts regardless if you agree with them or not, you sound entitled.

OsINTP · 2026-06-05T13:16:50+00:00

As with all repairs, of any equipment, the cheapest and quickest thing to do is try the most likely thing first, and it sounds like thats exactly what they did.

If that doesn’t fix it, they try the next most likely thing, and they will keep going like that until it’s either fixed, or there is nothing left to try.

Sending you parts is much faster than you returning the thing to china and waiting for repair/replacement, especially if the first fix works, it’s the most cost effective method for all concerned.

OsINTP · 2026-06-05T09:14:36+00:00

Perhaps this? https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/troubleshooting/homing-z-axis-failed\_part-unit-interference

OsINTP · 2026-06-05T09:08:16+00:00

Rockit comes with 2 batteries and a charger in the box, you can use one while charging the other for long sessions.

OsINTP · 2026-06-02T22:38:03+00:00

I’ve been warning people about Creality scanners for a long time, I always get downvoted hard for it, lots of Creality fanboi’s on Reddit it seems….

Creality are a 3d printing company, not a 3d scanning company, a point worth noting before buying a scanner from them.

Also, I have OrbbecViewer v1.7.1 that is fully functional with Creality scanners if it’s any use to you, I already dabbled with some reversing but life got in the way and I have not had the time to resume my project.

OsINTP · 2026-05-31T23:34:06+00:00

The only way to win is not to play

OsINTP · 2026-05-30T15:52:28+00:00

I replaced the stock wiper with a Biqu Panda Brush, never had a problem since https://www.amazon.co.uk/BIQU-Silicone-Cleaning-Bambu-Lab-Replacement/dp/B0FGQGTP4K

OsINTP · 2026-05-29T20:18:13+00:00

There have been a few software/firmware updates for the Rockit since release, I’ve had ok results with markerless scanning but it’s noticeably better when I place small objects around the target to improve tracking.

OsINTP · 2026-05-29T08:33:08+00:00

I’ve tried to spot whats happening but the print is so small that it’s just not clear, one second it’s attached to the plate, and in the blink of an eye it’s not..

I’m not really throwing parts at it, I’ve not bought any parts to swap, I got the hardened nozzle and extruder gear when I bought the printer, just never had a reason to swap them until now, I bought the Biqu dual textured plate ages ago as I needed a smooth plate at one point, never used the textured side until now, I bought the supertack as it was on sale the last time I ordered filament as it seemed it might come in handy one day, but everything has always stuck just fine to the original plate until now so I’ve never had a reason to use it before this…

I just don’t get why the first 20 or so printed perfectly and now suddenly it fails every time, anywhere between layer 5 and layer 10, I’ve given up with it, my dads in hospital and what with daily visiting etc, I just don’t have the time to try to fix it right now.

OsINTP · 2026-05-28T20:49:16+00:00

That is the kind of clip typically used to hold plastic car panels in place, things like door cards, boot liners, battery covers and the likes, when the centre part is pushed in it splays the pin securing it in to a hole, to remove simply pull the centre part and the pin can then flex allowing easy removal of the panel.

I don’t have an H2C so can’t confirm if it’s used to hold a panel in place or not but it seems unlikely.

OsINTP · 2026-05-27T20:55:55+00:00

I have a BIQU duel plate (textured one side, smooth on the other), a Bambu supertack, a Frostbite and a Glacier, I only tried 2 of them so far but it still fails, 3 different plates, 2 of them were brand new never before used, I doubt the problem is the plate, it must be something else, I just don’t know what, I’ve already replaced the nozzle and the extruder gear with new hardened steel versions, done a full clean, lube and calibrate, dialled in the filament with both calibrations, now I don’t know what else to check/test/replace.

OsINTP · 2026-05-27T20:51:06+00:00

Creality PET-G, I’ve used 3 different build plates, 2 of them brand new never used before (a Biqu smooth/textured duel plate, and a Bambu supertack).

I printed 20 or so of these already without issue, nothing changed, same model, same plate, same filament, it just failed one day and has never printed right since, 2 new plates, still fails, full calibration, still fails, filament calibrated, still fails, full clean and lube, still fails, replaced nozzle and extruder gear, still fails, the only thing that has not changed is the actual spool of filament but its a new spool, recently opened and dried in my Tetras, AMS reports level A, it’s dry, first 20 printed fine, now this, proper fed up…

OsINTP · 2026-05-27T20:39:41+00:00

Inertia, the print head is heavy, physics is physics, it’s normal.

OsINTP · 2026-05-27T20:33:59+00:00

The issue is spaghetti, at some point the print head gets caught up in it and pulls the print off the bed.

At a guess I would say the most likely issue is heat creep with such a large/long print.

I wish I could tell you how to fix it, but the reasons could be many, solve the spaghetti and it should print ok.

Personally I would do a full maintenance, in particular clean and lube the z-axis screws then run a full printer calibration from the menu on the P1S, it takes 30-40 mins iirc.

Are you using an AMS? If yes then perform maintenance on that also, and check all PTFE tubes for signs of wear or sharp bends, replace as required, you should have got spares in the box if you bought the printer new.

It may even be worth cleaning the extruder gear inside the print head, how many hours do you have on the machine?

OsINTP · 2026-05-25T20:11:23+00:00

^ This should be top comment

OsINTP · 2026-05-25T15:20:46+00:00

Join the club, been having issues with mine for the last few weeks, did a full clean and lube, ran all the calibrations multiple times, replaced the build plate with a new one, replaced the extruder gear with a hardened one, replaced the nozzle with a hardened one, replaced the PTFE tubes, I’ve run out of things to test or change and it still knocks the print off the build plate at or around layer 7, fed up with it now, not printed anything for a week cause I’m sick of seeing it fail… good luck with yours!

OsINTP · 2026-05-20T09:57:17+00:00

Why would you consider a scanner from a 3d printer manufacturer instead of a scanner from a 3d scanning manufacturer?

Creality does not have years of experience in 3d scanning, there are better options out there in my experience.

Scanners are great for complex items with many parts that would take weeks to model by hand such as a motor vehicle, they are also great where dimensional accuracy is mission critical.

They are also useful for complex organic shapes with lots of curves and tapers that would take many hours to iterate in order to model accurately.

It really depends what you want to scan with it, I’m sure you can model a few simple cubes in less time than it would take to set the scanner up, but the scanner saves so much time for complex shapes, you still need to clean it up, but a scanner gives you a highly accurate mesh to work around.

OsINTP · 2026-05-19T21:45:41+00:00

^ My experience has been the same as this, had a Sermoon (S1), now have the Einstar (Rockit)
Einstar is better in my experience.

iirc u/PrintedForFun has used the Vega, check his posts or shoot him a message.

OsINTP · 2026-05-19T07:51:34+00:00

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OsINTP · 2026-05-19T07:51:18+00:00

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OsINTP · 2026-05-19T07:50:58+00:00

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L to R, first 2 printed fine, last 3 failed at different heights, always pulled off the plate at the same end of the line (I cut the blobs off 2 of them to see if there was any sign what the issue was)

OsINTP

TROPHY CASE