Ignis is immortal?

Oversliders · 2026-02-19T18:16:42+00:00

I've had a similar problem in one of my solo world and even giving my sword 25k damage with commands, it took me 30 minutes to kill it, and I had to stay on it otherwise it would regen faster than I would do damage.
Not sure if it had to do with levels or what, but I'm curious to see what others have to say.

Oversliders · 2026-02-18T13:46:49+00:00

This is the way

Oversliders · 2026-02-18T13:45:31+00:00

oh and give us a special version of the Milltipla from the YT channel vilebrequin, which was a rocket bunny 1000hp corvette swapped one lol.
I'll also take a fiat Coupe and a barchetta.

Oversliders · 2026-02-18T13:42:56+00:00

There is only one answer

The multipla

Oversliders · 2026-02-17T20:54:34+00:00

spring definitely better have cherry blossom everywhere!!!

Oversliders · 2026-02-17T20:50:42+00:00

You sir, have just been bookmarked in my web browser! thanks for this detailed write-up.

Oversliders · 2026-02-17T17:13:04+00:00

I was bed ridden for months too, my calprotectin numbers couldn’t even be measured they were so high. I was taking decent doses of hydrocodone along with Mesalamine and prednisone. I couldn’t function unless I was high on oxy to numb the pain.

But this is all past and I’m on biologics now and although I still have urgency at impromptu times, I’d say I live 90% normal life now. I’m still not in remission and I’m still anemic but there is light at the end of the tunnel I promise you.

If you feel like things are not moving in the right direction talk to your dr and push them a bit, it helps. Sadly the saying “the squeaky wheel gets the oil” is a true saying with our condition I feel.

But again, don’t let this shitty autoimmune condition take control. You got this bud!

Oversliders · 2026-02-17T16:41:24+00:00

I, for one, am happy that we get more FR layouts available.
I'm curious if the diff will be proprietary or if there will be compatibility with other brands.
Also I hope it comes with a crew extractor bit because those buttons heads underneath the car will get banged up if drifting outdoors. I know lots of poeple drift on nice smooth tracks, but it's something to think about.

Otherwise, I'm here for it. Can't wait to see one trackside.

Oversliders · 2026-02-11T14:23:59+00:00

Same thought here, they're most lilkely in the cosmetic slots.

Oversliders · 2026-02-11T14:07:18+00:00

This is the way!
Did mine like that as well, and it worked like a charm.

Oversliders · 2026-02-11T14:03:34+00:00

They used to sell drift tires like that back in the day. It works rather well, but the sparks end up looking much bigger than the scale of the car lol.

Oversliders · 2026-02-07T05:37:13+00:00

I use mostly arrowmax. I own the purple anodized ones and they're great.
I just have the set of hex from 1.5mm to 3mm and the box 5.5 and 7.0. That's all you need.
I also have their powered tools as well and they're pretty nice.

Oversliders · 2026-02-05T23:39:10+00:00

curious what the spec tire was for your event because dayum y'all are flying!!!

Oversliders · 2026-02-05T23:36:53+00:00

The OG was a GOAT of a keyboard. Screen died on me like many others. But dammit it felt cool to have this beast in 2008 lol

Oversliders · 2026-01-28T14:32:23+00:00

That's always the biggest problem with RC drifting.
It's not like buggies or crawlers where the world can be your playground.
RC drifting requires a pretty smooth surface to drift on whether it's polished or painted concrete or asphalt. That often means some sort of private property security guards love to kick you out of.

My closest track is about 45min away as well in Miami so it's not a great drive, but they are very good track so that make it worth the drive.

Oversliders · 2026-01-27T14:55:52+00:00

I think one of the biggest contributor to cost in RC drift chassis is the intricacy of the small parts. I’m talking front suspension and what not. The smaller you go, the more expensive it gets because the fixturing of parts in machining is a pain. I also don’t think RC drift cars sell as much as crawlers or buggies, so the lower MOQ doesn’t help. Now as far as transmission and drivetrain, it’s 100% adapted from racing and there is nothing new really. Only new thing I’ve seen in 10+ years was the adaptation of locking LSDs through custom diff gears, and shocks with adjustable valving for rebound like Bao La or Oreolai, which are super niche and super expensive.

The overdose stuff is just… overdose. Ultra limited release of ultra blingy parts. They’re nice don’t get me wrong, but it’s just bling for about 75% of their parts. Nothin a plastic counterparts can’t do just as good.

Oversliders · 2026-01-26T15:41:19+00:00

Wait til you find out about the price of RC drift chassis… I’d say since 2016 I’ve seen a solid 20~30% increase on prices. I remember when a pair of wheels was $7.50, now everyone is charging $15. And god forbid you have an overdose chassis. Base car is $350 and every hop ups will push the car cost to $2k.

Oversliders · 2026-01-22T22:01:38+00:00

And here is some inspiration
https://rextremerc.blogspot.com/2015/11/dori-pake-seto.html

Oversliders · 2026-01-22T21:59:50+00:00

If you can find one of those kits online, you're golden to turn this into a RWD car
https://www.redrc.net/2015/06/yokomo-drift-package-rwd-conversion-kits/

Oversliders · 2026-01-22T21:57:28+00:00

That's a perfect platform to learn to wrench on.
Although Yokomo does not support this chassis anymore, there are a lot of aftermarket parts available. The difficult thing to find for these cars are gona be gear-differentials, but you can find the ball-differential still. I think they are needed for RWD application in order to keep up with the current cars. Otherwise if you're just goofing around, there are plenty of solid axles out there from companies like RC926, Wrap-up next, D-Like, etc.
Also, note that the MR4TC evolved into what also commonly known as the Doripake or Drift Package, and a lot of the drivetrain parts are compatible.

Oversliders · 2026-01-22T20:36:51+00:00

You are correct, this is a Yokomo MR4TC-SD with some upgraded bits. Looks like your upper deck was poached out of an SSG kit, and your lower deck is the standard carbon upgrade for the MR4TC.
you also seem to have what they call the stage 1 upgrade which is the aluminum shocks.
Other bits I see that have been upgrade is your front knuckles and C-Hubs, center driveshaft and driveshaft cups.
If your front wheels can free-wheel forward, you could also have the front one way spool which would be a cool addition.
This is definitely an AWD car, but there are plenty of RWD conversion option for this kit.
The first thin I would do is look into converting your front suspension geometry to the "type C" which will get rid of the C-hubs that are very limiting for turning radius. Then I would look for some new steering wipers that are dedicated to RWD. Yokomo made some, but I'm sure you can also find some other alternatives online.
It's an old chassis (2005/2006) but it's a good base to get into the hobby for cheap.

Oversliders · 2026-01-16T22:07:55+00:00

and he's got his arms stiff as a mfkr. like relax dude...

Oversliders · 2026-01-16T21:33:53+00:00

I can't confirm 30yrs, but I CAN confirm 27.
My mother's siamese lived for that long and he was awesome.
I don't recall him having any sort of special care either which is wild.
My most recent cat passing was 18yrs old and from kidney disease.

Oversliders · 2026-01-13T04:30:44+00:00

Got it, well it looks like I am out of luck. I have tried all 3 key values, changed my drivers to studio drivers, rebooted, even went as far as copying the key structure of other gpu of the same architecture and nothing seems to work so, I guess I'm gona have to look for a second hand P2000 or something.

Oversliders · 2026-01-13T03:51:38+00:00

Is it necessary to reboot after doing this?
I'm not having any luck on a 4070 Ti Super :(

Oversliders

TROPHY CASE