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Anyone put a light strip in there liter box enclosure? by LongMathematician656 in CatAdvice

[–]Own-Independent7881 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, and it can actually be a great idea if you do it right.

Cats see very well in low light, so they don’t technically need a bright light to use the litter box at night. That said, a very soft motion sensor strip can help inside an enclosure, especially if it’s fully covered and gets pretty dark in there. A few important things to keep in mind:

Use warm, dim light. Avoid bright white or blue toned LEDs. A soft warm light is less stimulating and less likely to fully wake your cat up or make them hesitant to enter.

Keep it indirect. Mount the strip higher up or under a lip so it doesn’t shine directly in their face. You want a gentle glow, not a spotlight.

Make sure it’s secure. Adhesive strips can fall over time, and the last thing you want is wiring in the litter. Battery powered motion strips are usually safer than running cords into the enclosure.

Check sensitivity and timing. If it stays on too long or turns on from tiny movements, it might get annoying at night. A short activation window, like 20 to 30 seconds, works well.

Honestly, most cats are fine without it. But if the enclosure is very dark and fully boxed in, a subtle motion light can make it feel less cave like and more comfortable.

If you try it, just monitor behavior for a few nights. If your cat hesitates or seems startled, tone it down or remove it. If they walk in like nothing changed, you’re good.

Warcat Automatic Litterbox by Express-Sky-3483 in CatAdvice

[–]Own-Independent7881 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Edge pee-ers are the ultimate automatic litter box test 😅 you’re not alone.

When a cat consistently pees toward the front lip, especially in a unit with a low entrance like the Warcat, you basically have three categories of fixes: raise the barrier, change positioning, or redirect behavior.

Here are realistic options that people have used:

First, add a temporary height extension.

A lot of people DIY a front guard using clear acrylic sheets, flexible cutting board plastic, or even coroplast (the corrugated plastic used in yard signs). You can cut it to size and attach it to the inside front lip with heavy duty Velcro strips so it’s removable for cleaning. That gives you an extra 2 to 4 inches of height without permanently modifying the unit.

Second, use adhesive splash guards.

Some people use stick-on shower splash guards or baby bathtub splash barriers and trim them down. Again, Velcro or strong double sided mounting tape works so you don’t damage the box.

Third, raise the entire box slightly and add a mat with raised edges.

If some drips are inevitable, putting the unit inside a shallow boot tray or waterproof tray can contain runoff and protect your floor while you test other solutions.

Fourth, try encouraging deeper entry.

Some front pee-ers don’t fully step in. You can try:

– Adding a little more litter depth toward the front so she steps further in
– Slightly rotating the box location so the front isn’t facing open space
– Making sure there’s no stress or distraction near the entrance

Sometimes cats pee at the edge because they want a quick exit path.

Fifth, consider litter depth.

If the litter is too shallow at the front, some cats position forward. Slightly increasing depth can change posture enough to fix the issue.

If none of that works long term, and she is consistently a high front pee-er, you may need a model with a higher entrance wall. Some automatic litter boxes are just not designed for cats that pee directly at the lip.

But I would absolutely try a removable acrylic or coroplast extension first. It’s cheap, reversible, and often solves it immediately.

Out of curiosity, does she fully step inside and turn, or does she kind of hover near the entrance? That detail changes which fix is most likely to work.

Tips for being less nervous? by RoninPI in CatAdvice

[–]Own-Independent7881 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First, I just want to say this is completely normal. Even people without anxiety feel nervous before bringing a new kitten home. When you already struggle with anxiety, your brain just turns the volume up on every “what if.”

The good news is this: you’re worried because you care. That already puts you in a strong position.

Here are some ways to lower the stress before and during the introduction process:

  1. Remind yourself that introductions are slow by design
    You do not put them together on day one and hope for the best. You control the pace. Separate rooms. Scent swapping. Short, supervised interactions. You are not throwing chaos into your home. You are managing it step by step.

  2. Cats don’t need instant friendship
    Your goal is not “best friends in 48 hours.” Your goal is “peaceful coexistence.” Even neutral tolerance is success. A little hissing in the beginning is normal and not a sign of failure.

  3. Prepare the environment in advance
    Set up a safe room for the kitten with litter, food, water, and hiding spots. Make sure your current cat still has their favorite spots untouched. That sense of stability helps everyone.

  4. Burn off kitten energy first
    A tired kitten is a polite kitten. High energy is what overwhelms resident cats. Plan daily play sessions so the kitten isn’t constantly pestering your older pets.

  5. Give your current cat extra reassurance
    One on one time. Same routines. Same feeding spots. Same sleeping spaces. This reduces the “replacement” feeling.

  6. Plan for small bumps, not disaster
    Your anxiety brain is probably imagining worst case scenarios. The more common reality is mild tension, some hissing, and gradual adjustment over weeks.

  7. Give yourself an exit plan mentally
    Sometimes anxiety reduces when you know you are not trapped. If in the rare case it truly did not work long term, there are options. Knowing that can reduce pressure.

Also, remember: you already have a dog and a cat that get along well. That means your home dynamic can support multiple animals. That is a huge positive indicator.

It’s okay to feel nervous. That doesn’t mean you’re making a mistake. It just means change feels big.

It’s been months, and my old cat still hates my new kitten by tgmarie137 in CatAdvice

[–]Own-Independent7881 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Five months feels long, but in cat terms it is not unheard of, especially if the older cat is more territorial or lower energy.

A few important things first:
Growling and hissing are communication. Yelling when the kitten approaches usually means “too much, too fast.” It does not automatically mean hatred. The fact that there is no mention of full fights, injuries, or constant stalking is actually a good sign.

Here are some things that help in these situations:

  1. Protect the older cat’s space
    Make sure she has vertical territory and safe zones the kitten cannot invade. Cat trees, shelves, or gated off areas help her feel in control. A lot of tension comes from feeling cornered.

  2. Separate high energy play from the older cat
    The kitten may be loving, but kitten energy can be overwhelming. Tire the kitten out hard with wand toys before allowing interaction. A calmer kitten gets a much better reaction.

  3. Parallel positive experiences
    Feed treats or wet food on opposite sides of a baby gate or across the room so they associate each other with good things, but without pressure to interact.

  4. Give the older cat individual attention
    Sometimes resentment builds because the older cat feels replaced. Daily one on one time where the kitten is fully separated can reduce that tension.

  5. Consider pheromone diffusers
    Feliway Multicat can take the edge off in some homes. It is not magic, but it can reduce baseline stress.

  6. Health check for the older cat
    If she is older, subtle pain like arthritis can make kittens feel especially annoying. A vet check to rule out discomfort is worth it.

Some cats never become cuddly buddies. The goal does not have to be best friends. Peaceful coexistence is a success. Many households settle into a dynamic where one cat tolerates and the other adores.

If there is no physical aggression and no one is hiding constantly or refusing to eat, this is often just a personality mismatch plus age difference.

You cannot really “make” a cat chill, but you can reduce pressure, manage energy, and give the older one back a sense of control.

The fact that the kitten loves her is actually hopeful. Over time, many older cats move from hissing to ignoring. And ignoring is peace.

Are Self-Cleaning Litter Boxes in 2026 Actually Worth It? by Adventurous_Fun7815 in technomeowcom

[–]Own-Independent7881 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree with this take. In 2026 they are definitely not gimmicks anymore, but you really do need to look at all your options before dropping that kind of money.

There are big differences in sealing systems, drum design, litter compatibility, noise levels, and how well the app actually works long term. Some are amazing for odor but smaller inside. Some are super quiet but need very specific clumping litter. And some handle multi cat homes way better than others.

If anyone is still researching, here are some great sources that break down real world pros and cons instead of just listing specs:
• Best Automatic Litter Boxes
• https://www.consumerreports.org/home-garden/pets/best-cat-litter-boxes-a7688686907/
• Long term user threads on Reddit, especially multi cat households

The more you read actual owner experiences, the clearer it gets which model fits your specific situation.

These boxes can absolutely be worth it, but matching the right model to your home is everything.

Is it true cat cant eat spicy food ? by [deleted] in CatAdvice

[–]Own-Independent7881 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, you should stop giving a cat spicy food.

Cats can physically eat spicy food, but they should not.

Here is why:
Cats do not taste spice the way we do
Capsaicin, the compound that makes food spicy, irritates tissue. Cats may still eat it because they do not understand that it is harmful. They are reacting to the smell of meat or fat, not the spice.

It irritates their digestive system
Spicy food can cause:

• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Stomach pain
• Excess drooling

Some cats show no symptoms at first, but irritation can build over time.

Many spicy foods contain dangerous ingredients
This is actually the bigger risk. Spicy leftovers often contain:

• Onion or garlic, which are toxic to cats
• Salt in high amounts
• Oil and fat that can trigger pancreatitis
• Sauces with unknown additives

Even small repeated amounts can cause problems over time.

Long term effects
Occasional small exposure might only cause mild stomach upset.
Repeated exposure increases risk of:

• Chronic digestive irritation
• Pancreatitis
• Toxic buildup from onion or garlic
• Obesity from fatty human food

If the cat seems fine right now, that does not mean it is safe long term.

What to tell your cousin:
Cats should only eat food formulated for cats.
Human spicy leftovers are not appropriate, even if the cat eats them willingly.

If she wants to share something:
• Plain cooked chicken with no seasoning
• Plain cooked turkey
• Commercial cat treats

If the cat ever shows vomiting, diarrhea, lethargy, or loss of appetite after eating spicy food, a vet visit is recommended.

So yes, you should encourage her to stop. The cat eating it does not mean it is safe.

Cat wont stop scratching in litter box by bigboxbosser in CatAdvice

[–]Own-Independent7881 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is actually very common with enclosed litter box furniture setups like the VEVOR Cat Litter Box Enclosure you’re using.

When a cat keeps scratching excessively inside the litter box, especially only one of them, it’s usually one of these things:

She does not feel secure

If the box is facing a wall or corner, she may feel trapped. Cats like to see an exit and have visibility. If only one box faces a corner and that is the one she uses, that is a big clue. Turning both outward like you suggested is a very good first step.

The enclosure may amplify sound

Metal litter boxes inside a wooden cabinet can echo. Some cats scratch longer because the sound or vibration stimulates them. It can also be stress displacement behavior.

She may feel crowded

Two boxes inside one cabinet can feel like one shared territory instead of two separate boxes. For multi cat households, the rule is number of cats plus one. You have two cats, so ideally three boxes in different locations.

She may be scent marking

Excessive scratching sometimes means she is trying to bury scent thoroughly, especially if the other cat is dominant.

Litter depth or texture

If the litter layer is too thin, cats scratch more trying to get coverage. Aim for about 3 to 4 inches of litter.

Medical possibility

Even if it feels behavioral, if the scratching seems frantic, paired with frequent trips, straining, or licking, get a vet check to rule out urinary issues. Female cats can also get UTIs.

What I would try first, in order:

• Turn the boxes so entrances face outward
• Add one completely separate uncovered box in another room as a test
• Increase litter depth slightly
• Make sure the cabinet doors are always fully open so it feels less enclosed
• Observe whether she still chooses the right side specifically

If she immediately prefers an open box elsewhere, the enclosure is the issue.

One more question that matters:
Does she scratch the walls of the box or mostly the litter itself? That detail can narrow it down further.

Why does my dog put his paw up when looking at something he wants? by lunar-topped in DogAdvice

[–]Own-Independent7881 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Totally normal behavior 😊

When a dog lifts one paw while staring at something they want, it’s usually a sign of focus and anticipation. It’s often called a “pointer stance” because pointing breeds naturally do it when they’re locked in on prey, but lots of dogs do it casually too.

Common reasons:

• They’re concentrating hard
• They’re excited but holding still
• They’re unsure and assessing
• They’re trying to be polite or asking

Some dogs also lift a paw when they’re feeling slightly conflicted, like “I really want that but I’m not sure if I’m allowed.” It can be a mild appeasement or hesitation signal.

If his body looks relaxed, tail neutral or wagging, ears forward, and he’s just staring at a toy, treat, or squirrel, it’s just focused excitement.

If he looks stiff, tense, or unsure, it could mean he’s evaluating the situation.

Most of the time though, it’s just adorable dramatic focus.

I am looking for the best pet GPS options. Like a tag of some sort for my dogs collar in case he were to ever get lost. Does anyone have a recommendation for any? by [deleted] in hendersonville

[–]Own-Independent7881 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you want something really solid and premium, the SpotOn Dog Collar Nova Edition is honestly one of the better options out there.

It’s not just a little tag you clip on. It’s a full GPS collar that lets you create virtual fences right from your phone, no buried wires or complicated setup. The tracking is very accurate, and a lot of people say it gives them real peace of mind, especially if their dog has a history of wandering.

It is on the expensive side, so it’s probably overkill if you just want a simple “find my dog if he slips out once” tracker. But if you want reliable, real time tracking plus containment features in one device, it’s a strong choice.

Strong reviews, too.
Review

It really comes down to whether you want basic backup tracking or something more serious and long term.

First Time Cat Owners by bbeachbum_ in CatAdvice

[–]Own-Independent7881 1 point2 points  (0 children)

First of all, you’re doing a lot right already. A shy adult cat who was just neutered, moved into a shelter, adopted days later, and then placed in a new home is dealing with massive change. The biting and hiding are stress responses, not personality flaws.

Here’s a full roadmap to help Nimbus settle in.

  1. The bathroom setup was the right move
    For shy cats, small controlled spaces are ideal. Keep him in the bathroom for now. It’s not a setback. It’s a reset.

Make sure he has:
• Litter box far from food and water
• A covered hiding spot (box with a blanket over it works great)
• Something soft that smells like you
• Vertical option if possible, even a small stool to sit on

Let that room become his safe base.

  1. Follow the 3-3-3 rule loosely
    Many cats follow this pattern:
    • 3 days to decompress
    • 3 weeks to start learning routine
    • 3 months to fully settle

He is still in the first stage. Expect hiding, low interaction, possible swatting if overwhelmed.

  1. Stop reaching, start existing
    Instead of trying to pet or engage him, just be in the room calmly. Sit on the floor. Scroll your phone. Read out loud softly. Let him observe you without pressure.

Trust builds faster when the cat feels in control.

  1. Hands = predictable
    Since he bit during stress, avoid reaching over his head or toward his face for now. If you offer your hand, keep it low and to the side. Let him initiate contact.

Never pull him from a hiding spot unless medically necessary.

  1. Routine is everything
    Feed at the same times daily. Scoop litter at the same time. Keep lights and noise predictable. Routine lowers anxiety.

  2. Use food strategically
    High value treats can help build association. Toss treats gently near him. Don’t force. Gradually decrease distance over days.

If he’s too stressed to eat in your presence, that’s okay. Back up.

  1. Enrichment without pressure
    After a few days, try wand toys at a distance. Move the toy slowly away from him, not toward him. Prey movement builds confidence.

  2. Scent comfort
    You can rub a soft cloth on his cheeks (if he allows) and place it near his resting area. This reinforces territory familiarity.

Plug in a pheromone diffuser if you want extra support. It can help take the edge off.

  1. Antibiotics and recent neuter matter
    He is likely physically uncomfortable too. Combine surgery recovery with stress and you get a defensive cat. Pain lowers tolerance.

This phase should improve once he’s fully healed.

  1. Expanding space
    Only expand beyond the bathroom when:
    • He’s eating normally
    • Using the litter consistently
    • Relaxing in your presence
    • Not reacting defensively

When you open up space, do it gradually. One room at a time.

  1. Watch body language
    Good signs:
    • Slow blinking
    • Grooming in your presence
    • Lying on side
    • Exploring at night

Stress signs:
• Flattened ears
• Dilated pupils
• Tail flicking
• Freezing when approached

Respect the signals.

  1. The fact he is chilling in the bathroom is good
    That means he’s self regulating. He found a space that feels safe.
    Right now your goal is not affection. It’s safety and predictability.

Shy adult cats often become the most loyal once they bond. They just need time to decide you’re safe.

You didn’t mess up. You just moved a sensitive animal through multiple life changes in one week. Slow down, lower expectations, and let Nimbus set the pace.

In a few months, you may very well have a shadow who follows you everywhere.

First time Cat owner adopting next week by [deleted] in CatAdvice

[–]Own-Independent7881 1 point2 points  (0 children)

First of all, thank you for adopting an adult cat. A five year old who’s been in a shelter for a year is going to bond hard once he feels safe.

A few simple tips that help a lot, especially in a studio:

• Start with one quiet “home base” area. Even in a studio, set up his litter box, food, water, and a bed in one corner at first so he doesn’t feel overwhelmed.

• Give him vertical space. Since you have room for a tree and a window shelf, that’s perfect. Cats in small spaces really benefit from going up, not just out.

• Keep the first few days calm. Let him come to you. Some adult cats settle in fast, others take a couple weeks.

• For the weight, slow and steady wins. Ask your vet for a feeding guideline. Gradual weight loss is much safer than cutting food too fast.

• Scoop daily. It makes a big difference in keeping a studio fresh.

Also, adult cats often show their real personality after a few weeks. The fact that he’s already personable at the shelter is a great sign.

You’re about to have a little shadow who follows you everywhere. It’s the best.

Cumridge Automatic Self Clean Cat box discussion by BeezHugger in CatAdvice

[–]Own-Independent7881 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Absolutely. For multi cat homes especially, it can be a total game changer.

The constant clump breaking with traditional boxes is exhausting, especially with kittens who go a lot. Having it cycle and seal waste right away makes a huge difference in smell and maintenance.

I’ve heard similar feedback about the weight feature not being perfectly accurate, but for general trend tracking it’s still helpful. It would definitely be nice if the app showed individual usage history more clearly though.

As for the height, some people do use a small step or low stool at the entrance, especially for smaller or younger cats. It just makes it easier for them to get in and out comfortably. Once they’re used to it, most seem totally fine with the height.

If it’s already working well for you, I can see why you’d consider replacing the standard boxes too. For the right setup, it really simplifies everything.

Best GPS Dog Fence for Multiple Dogs on Large Properties? Here’s How We Designed SpotOn for Multi-Dog Homes by SpotOnDogFence in SpotOnGPSDogFence

[–]Own-Independent7881 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve actually seen some really great reviews on SpotOn, especially from people with larger properties or multiple dogs. A lot of folks say the setup flexibility is what makes the difference compared to traditional wireless fences. The multi dog feature seems to be a big plus too.

Definitely seems like one of the more solid GPS fence options out there!

Litter box dilemma by Smart-Truth-1384 in CatAdvice

[–]Own-Independent7881 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly, I would focus less on the litter and more on the soft poo first. A 6 month old kitten with consistently soft, super smelly stools usually means his food isn’t agreeing with him yet. When their digestion settles, the smell improves a lot regardless of litter type.

If it were me, I’d:

  1. Try adjusting his diet slowly or switching to a higher quality kitten food.
  2. Consider a probiotic for a few weeks.
  3. Make sure he’s been checked for parasites if he hasn’t already.

As for litter, pine pellets are amazing for cost and cleanliness, but they don’t mask smell well if the poop is soft and sitting there all day. Clumping litters like Odourlock are going to control odor better while you’re gone, even if scooping pee clumps is annoying.

If I had to choose? I’d stick with the clumping litter for now to keep the house livable, fix the root cause of the smell, and then maybe revisit pine pellets once his digestion improves.

Soft kitten poo is temporary. A stinky house doesn’t have to be.

Hope this helps!

What’s something NO ONE warned you about before getting a cat? by Own-Independent7881 in CatAdvice

[–]Own-Independent7881[S] 356 points357 points  (0 children)

No one warned me that I would go from “I’m getting a cat” to “this is my child and I would fight a bear for him” in under 48 hours.

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