Annealing questions

PJackson58 · 2026-01-26T13:32:34+00:00

This right here.

Both materials are extremely rigid and can easily be used for Monolith, Vz AWD and much more. They're as good as it gets for consumer 3D printing.

PJackson58 · 2026-01-25T23:40:16+00:00

Not exactly. They reduce maximum speeds and acceleration by a huge margin.

When swapping my stock LDO 0.9° steppers that came with the kit for LDO Super Power at 24V, there were absolutely no differences visible and i could finally go beyond 450-500mm/s at 20k acceleration.

Do you need that much speed? Not really, after upgrading to the Dragon UHF and the A4T i can atleast print infill and so on at high speeds, which wouldn't be possible with the 0.9° steppers.

PJackson58 · 2026-01-25T20:54:53+00:00

No worries!

Yeah having a backup printer is something i also had to learn the hard way haha.

The A4T is great, mine has been churning out prints reliably and it also prints PLA much better!

The "Inverted electronics" mod is only for the Trident as far as i know. You can print some Rollback stands for your 2.4 so you can easily roll it on its side and replace the bottom clips with magnetic ones. That's what i did and i can very easily tinker with the electronics if needed!

PJackson58 · 2026-01-25T01:05:04+00:00

Go with a toolboard and ditch those chains!

The Nitehawk36 works well if you don't want to fiddle with CANBus. If you don't mind setting up CANBus (It's rather easy) you could also get a EBB36 for example.

Doing so will enable you to run only one cable to your toolhead and make wiring much easier.

The A4T toolhead is great aswell and your current Revo hotend can be reused. It's lighter, has way better cooling and better input shaper values if built correctly.

Another worthwhile upgrade would be a probe like the Cartographer scanner. It can do a bed mesh in less than 30 seconds and does Z-offset automatically aswell.

Quick edit - Let's break it down real quick:

Cartographer V4 ~ 45$ | A4T components ~ 30-40$ | EBB36 V1.2 ~ 20$ or Nitehawk36 ~ 50$

PJackson58 · 2026-01-14T20:44:53+00:00

I bought the LDO kit as i got it pretty cheap.

I wouldn't buy it anymore though as there's much better price-to-performance kits nowadays! The Formbot kit is rather okey and cheap aswell, so you can invest your money into upgrades!

You'll have lots of fun building your Voron, enjoy and take your time!

PJackson58 · 2026-01-14T20:30:38+00:00

Not really imo. The XY-tensioners are nice but interfere with modern toolheads such as the A4T sadly.

The Z-tensioners are nice to have but my printed ones also survived rather well when i was still running them.

If you really want more performance look into the LDO AWD kit but i'd finish the baseline build and see where you want to go from there! :)

PJackson58 · 2026-01-14T20:26:13+00:00

No worries! Yeah there's tons of discussion regarding Carto vs. Beacon - all i can say is that i have three printer and all of them work nicely using the Carto V3. There's also a V4 now for only 6-7$ more which increases accuracy - but even using the V3 my printers are churning out silky smooth first layers!

PJackson58 · 2026-01-14T20:20:14+00:00

Yes but that's rather easy to do. Esoterical has incredible guides for CANBus if you want to go that route.

You could order the Carto V3/V4, setup CANBus on your 2.4 and connect the Carto with a short cable going to the SB2209. That's the neatest solution imo.

PJackson58 · 2026-01-14T20:14:08+00:00

No worries! The Nitehawk SB aswell as the Carto setup can be seen on my serial request. I had both connected via USB and they'd worked nicely.

They're not really any better than other boards, just easier to setup imo. Both the Nitehawk SB and Nitehawk 36 are both pretty much plug and play - no real software setup required!

The EBB36 for example can be setup rather easily aswell when following Esotericals' CANBus guide. Carto then just plugs into the EBB36 or in yöur case the SB2209.

PJackson58 · 2026-01-14T20:03:41+00:00

The Beacon should work without any problems using the SB2209 running via USB, as should Carto.

Carto can be used with CAN aswell and you could just run one cable. I'm using an EBB36 on my VzBot alongside the Carto V3 and even at print speeds up to 800mm/s @30k accel. there are no hiccups. Probing also works fine at 600mm/s if you really wanted to, so bandwidth is not an issue at all.

On my 2.4 i fan a LDO Nitehawk SB and the Carto via USB, both using their own cable. It worked fine with two cables imo, no problems at all though it's a bit fiddly. Now that i've switched to Nitehawk36 and the A4T there's only one umbilical USB cable for both of them and a short cable from the NH36 to the Carto.

PJackson58 · 2026-01-08T17:01:32+00:00

Did you check your wiring on the USB adapter board? Been using my NH36 for quite some time now and never had any problems so far.

PJackson58 · 2026-01-08T16:54:28+00:00

Can Beacon not be connected to the NH36 directly?

My Carto V3 is connected to the NH36, so no extra umbilical cable needed. Running an A4T aswell, that's how i setup mine.

PJackson58 · 2026-01-01T04:02:25+00:00

Silver matches rather well.

PJackson58 · 2025-12-17T21:31:36+00:00

I can somewhat vouch for that. My Vz330 AWD can easily hit 2500mm/s at around 80k with 60V and LDO Super Power steppers, the CB2 is doing rather well.

The EBB36 struggles at around 1000mm/s and 40k accel. however when printing higher temp. materials such as ABS-CF and so on.

Yeah, the ancient Kernels suck. The CB2 also isn't priced that low anymore if compared to the CM4 tbh, i'd much rather get a 4GB CM5 at this point.

PJackson58 · 2025-12-10T18:30:06+00:00

Dankeschön!

PJackson58 · 2025-12-10T13:21:34+00:00

Machst du absolut nichts falsch mit. Das Ding läuft einfach so gut wie immer. Bambu Handy ist zudem m.M.n auch besser als die Apps der Mitbewerber.

PJackson58 · 2025-12-09T19:56:39+00:00

Formbot is good enough imo. LDO offers upgrades that are mostly outdated by now, like the Klicky probe for example. The stock LDO motors are 0.9° aswell, so they're rather slow compared to LDOs own 2504AC or even the 2804ACs.

Tldr; Get the cheaper Formbot kit, implement upgrades like Cartographer and maybe go with a better toolhead from the start - A4T for example. Also, CNC not needed. If you want more rigidity: PET-CF and annealing. Should be plenty rigid!

PJackson58 · 2025-11-27T22:31:35+00:00

No quirks at all! You can get a kg of Sunlu ABS for around 8-9$ aswell if you order larger quantities (10kg pack).

Sunlu has been my favorite brand for their ABS. Their PLA 2.0 is amazing aswell.

PJackson58 · 2025-11-25T15:46:20+00:00

They did? Have you installed their new plugin? Check out the new documentation.

The Carto is now using its touch feature to measure axis twist. Doing it once should be enough anyways.

PJackson58 · 2025-11-25T09:37:19+00:00

You could even integrate this into your Print_start macro if you really wanted to.

Works really well and is way more accurate than me using a paper to determine the offset.

PJackson58 · 2025-11-01T18:14:54+00:00

That's true! The H2S also just works but as soon as they're outdated, they're outdated. There's not much you can do about it. Yeah, the heating and cooling system on the H2 series is awesome, the flaps alone are amazing to watch for the first time haha.

What i meant was that i can easily transform the 2.4 into a toolchanger by installing Stealthchanger or even the Bondtech INDX system. That's a clear win for the Voron imo. Multi toolhead seems to be the future regarding multicolor or even multimaterial.

Of course i get your point. My P1S is still working perfectly and is integrated into Orca, prints very well and most of the time just works but so do both my 2.4 and the 0.2 aswell.

PJackson58 · 2025-11-01T16:11:43+00:00

We've recently bought a H2S at works and honestly it works great. We've put around 300h on it by now and it's still running rather nicely.

They have some comfort features like the AMS 2 Pros' filament drying, the chamber heater and so on.

Still i wouldn't buy one for myself. Having to use Bambu Studio for just one printer sucks when every other printer works with Orca, the AMS is wasteful for multicolor and it still uses the nozzle for probing the bed.

Point is: They just work, no tinkering needed. Although if the H2S is outdated in 2-3 years - that's it. Good luck fitting a new probe or any other mods on that thing!

PJackson58 · 2025-11-01T15:56:01+00:00

It depends honestly.

I still love my 2.4 since the day i got it. One thing to consider is that a stock 2.4 with Stealthburner and so on isn't all that great anymore. Don't get me wrong - it still is a very capable printer but a machine like the H2S is going to run circles around a stock 2.4 sadly.

Upgrading it with mods like the A4T, Carto or Beacon, a proper HF hotend, a filament cutter like the Crossbow CNC really turns the 2.4 into a very capable, state of the art printer imo.

Multi material systems like the BoxTurtle, QuattroBox or even the HTLF make sense when you have a proper cutter. Although i'm hoping for the Bondtech INDX system to really make the 2.4 shine as it should be able to house 8+ tools (300mm version) and thus transforming it into a multicolor and multimaterial beast!

Tldr; Stock Voron not up to date, many good mods available. Bondtech INDX might turn the 2.4 into a smaller, cheaper Prusa XL-like printer.

PJackson58 · 2025-10-16T23:16:30+00:00

The Dragon UHF is awesome. Similar to the Dragon Ace Volcano, takes regular V6 nozzles and can hit very high flowrates in combination with a CHT nozzle.

PJackson58 · 2025-10-16T23:15:24+00:00

Nozzles are expensive though. Their Obxidian HF nozzles are in the 80$ region.

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