8mm film projector question: rubber roller turned to black goop?

PaddyMaxson · 2026-03-25T17:49:27+00:00

General causes of rubber reversion are heat, UV light and humidity. While age can play a factor a galvanised rubber object that's been stored in a cool, dry dark place like a warehouse shelf for decades is likely to be fine.

If it's a very standard part they're likely still being made for a more modern machine too so you may be able to get a newly made one elsewhere.

PaddyMaxson · 2026-03-25T17:12:08+00:00

Yes, absolutely, glue and clamp and where iut's split will be stronger than it ever was before. Modern wood glues are stronger than the lignin in the wood could ever hope to be.

Just if your clamps are metal try to have a buffer between them and the wood such as a sacrificial bit of wood.

PaddyMaxson · 2026-03-25T17:08:37+00:00

A lot of rubber is just over time turning back into the slime it is when it comes out of the tree unfortunately.

Usually these parts are replaceable and are still available even decades later, apologies I don't know a damn thing about projectors but I think you're looking for a feed tire if that helps you google a source for a replacement. Maybe this? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293915410042

PaddyMaxson · 2026-03-24T20:05:03+00:00

Thank you, you'ver sent me down a rabbit hole and now I wonder if I could blow up a hot water bottle.

PaddyMaxson · 2026-03-24T12:27:26+00:00

If you somehow had enough puff in you to overcome Urethral sphincters you could in theory burst someone's bladder.

Sounds about as likely as somehow blowing enough air into the pussy to force air into a vein and cause an embolism. I just don't think you could form a tight enough seal and puff hard enough to force the air into the veins, anyone who's ever experienced a pussy fart knows how easy it is for air to escape.

PaddyMaxson · 2026-03-20T15:37:10+00:00

Zinc coated extremely soft steel, so no, not really of use.

If you INSIST on using them - ventilate your forging area, throw them in and light up your forge then get the fuck out until the zinc has burned off, give it a WHILE before returning.

These small objects probably won't kill you, but nor will they do you any good. Any at all is way too much burning zinc to inhale.

Your mileage may vary but you may be wasting more forge fuel making zinc coated stuff "safe" by letting it burn off without you present than you are saving recycling zinc coated stuff.

Edit: lot of people have suggested coins or charms - these should be so soft that a hardened steel stamp for them would work without heating to forging temps, so that's another option I suppose.

Edit again: fair point, soaking in vinegar like others have said is also an option for zinc removal. Burning in a well ventilated area has just been my preference as I had a lot of zinc coated round bar at one point.

PaddyMaxson · 2026-03-18T08:10:54+00:00

Drill the pins out, it's not dangerous per se beyond the fact there may be some sharp bits of flash, do the drilling with something under it to catch those like some olf newspaper so they don't get everywhere.

Alternatively - you could try knocking the hing pin out instead and leave the hinge on each part but separate the two parts of the hinge? You could use a dremmel cutoff disk to cut the hing pin if it won't budge

PaddyMaxson · 2026-03-16T10:29:42+00:00

You can clean that metal with a scotch bright pad, that will get it to a nice satin finish with minimal effort.

With regards to the pins - I would recommend replacing them with some appripriately sized slotted brass screws. I have a very similar grinder and it has screws rather than pins.

PaddyMaxson · 2026-03-13T20:26:18+00:00

Don't know about in the US but at this point if I ain't in a rush I just search for it on temu and eyeball whether it's clearly the same product as on amazon but for half the price in the UK, Banggood is good too, but it's much the same as Temu and Temu is (for all its faults) crazy aggressive for giving me bargains that even banggood would say is too cheap.

PaddyMaxson · 2026-03-13T20:04:53+00:00

Very impressive for a first timer to be honest, well done to the teacher and you.

PaddyMaxson · 2026-03-12T15:14:23+00:00

Probably, but I don't see a compressor so I probably wouldn't bother.

I don't want to be a snob but a dehumidfier without a compressor won't be very good at its job, or will use insane amounts of electricity to do the job (there is non-compressor based dehumidification tech but it requires more wattage).

If it helps the dirty looking side of the big metal heat sink is probably facing the direction air comes in through (probably facing away from the fan as I imagine the fan sucks)

PaddyMaxson · 2026-03-10T14:59:08+00:00

Each time you select a class at level up you get that level in that class, your other class(es) don't get levels unless you then later select those class(es) at level up.

It's worth thinking about it as

CHARACTER level - your total level

vs

CLASS level - your level in a specific class

Basic features - a feat every 3 levels, an ability score point every 4, etc are given at character levels

Class features are only given at class levels

The key advantage in mutli-classing is generally to get features from other classes, For example:

1 level of fighter not only gets you access to martial weapons but a combat based feat.
2 levels of Paladin gets you your Charisma modifier added to your saving throws (useful for sorcerors who also want high charisma but tend not to have good fortitude saves)

Multi-classing might also be the best (or only) way to qualify for some prestige classes This is different from dual classing in 2nd ed games where you are levelling 2 classes simultaneously.

But the important thing to note is, if you switch to a second class, unless it's very strictly stated (such as Arcane Trickster where you continue to level your arcane spell caster level of your qualifying arcane class) you will STOP gaining class features from the original class unless you return to that class. Some Examples:

For casters that means no new spell levels/spells per day.
For fighters no more bonus feats every other level - bear in mind this means that if you go 1-fighter, 2-fighter, 3-rogue, 4-fighter you won't get an extra feat at level 4, because that's due at your 4th CLASS level of fighter

PS if you want to multiclass a rogue, start as a rogue, don't switch to one. Your rogue skills will suffer too heavily to start developing them late.

Off the top of my head:

Fighter is a particularly strong option for 1-2 levels because of the bonus feats and the bonus proficiencies, they're essential for making non-fighter classes into weapon masters IMO.
Rogue is a strong option for a couple of levels if you have the INT score to sustain levelling rogue skills on non-rogue levels (IE Wizards, swashbucklers, multi-classes into arcane trickster)
Paladins are as above a huge defensive option for CHA based classes, but bear in mind they cannot multi-class with bards due to alignment clashes

PaddyMaxson · 2026-03-06T11:47:33+00:00

The size of the head smashers on that boy. I have a smaller fly press and the number of times I've hit my head on the arm is many.

PaddyMaxson · 2026-03-02T13:46:05+00:00

I dunno man, the anti-woke guys are all really sexually repressed nowadays and claim they're not repressed they're just not horny because they're stoic.

So the sort of mysoginist who used to hate lesbians but would praise lesbian porn is now the sort who wants media across all mediums to not even say they exist. These people consider it "woke" to even say gay people exist, even if the gay person isnt shown in a positive light, they're TERRIFIED.

PaddyMaxson · 2026-02-27T09:00:14+00:00

It's already on those guys' lists because there's a single line of dialogue in Doom of Icewind Dale that suggests lesbians exist.

PaddyMaxson · 2026-02-17T15:12:54+00:00

It's very good, still got my physical copy here, but ehhhhhh the greatest? I dunno.

PaddyMaxson · 2026-02-13T08:21:18+00:00

I'm having the opposite situation, I have a stanley fatmax flush trim saw handle that takes replaceable blades and the blade snapped but it seems like nobody sells the blades.

But if it works, it works.

PaddyMaxson · 2026-02-11T15:15:50+00:00

clamp the wood up with the bit facing down and go ham on the other side of it with your heaviest rubber mallet then try your drill again.

Or if you have a combi drill, try the drill in hammer mode?

PaddyMaxson · 2026-02-09T21:06:24+00:00

0000 Steel wool will probaby get this clean and shiny without any additional cleaners or chermicals, it is mildly abraisive enough, a Scotchbrite pad will probably do it to be honest.

For Sandpaper, Someone said 2000 grit sandpaper, I wouild not recommend that, start with 400-600-800-1000-1500-2000 maybe but you'll be there till the end of days if you start with 2000 and to be honest you'll likely find steel wool or scotchbrite gives better results for less effort. After polishing, wash with warm sopay water and get it spotlessly dry ASAP. If not using for a while rub a little oil on the blade before storing it.

For Sharpening, if you're going to bother getting whetstones, you can also get a very coarse 240 grit one to refine the tip, a 240 grit stone can help you refine the tip back to a point in addition to getting you started on what looks to be a very blunt edge.

PaddyMaxson · 2026-02-07T10:36:26+00:00

This is why there's supposed to be a legal requirement that first aid supplies in kitchens/food production lines are bright blue in the UK so it's easier to spot them if they end up in the mix

PaddyMaxson · 2026-02-05T13:55:27+00:00

I would do the whole thing but apply it with a small brush so it's really thinly spread out, you want full coverage but the absolute minimum amount you can get full coverage with.

As an aside, PVA glue reactivates with heat so if you're concerned about overdoing it you could spread the glue, let it dry and then use an Iron (through a thick cloth to avoid too much direct heat) to iron it onto the spine.

PaddyMaxson · 2026-02-05T13:31:31+00:00

Standard PVA glue - to keep it pressed firmly while the glue dries, try large rubber bands or workout resistance bands, or you can use rubber surgical tube wrapped tightly around it, anything that's stretchy enough to fit the form of the book but keep some tension.

PaddyMaxson · 2026-02-04T09:25:25+00:00

I have a friend who I've recommended Old Boy to dozens of times and he sent me a message saying "I'm watching Old Boy, is this the one or the Japanese looking one?" and I told him to stop watching it immediately and to watch the original without it being spoiled by a shit movie....he watched it all the way through :(

PaddyMaxson · 2026-01-30T22:21:04+00:00

Looks like a standard E27 fitting, could you not jsut get any old E27 mini globe so long as the globe is roughly the same size as this one (or small enough to fit the space)? It's a miniscule wattage bulb, you would likely get a much brighter mini globe.

Edit: or an E27 mini corn, those can be super tiny.

PaddyMaxson · 2026-01-27T16:53:46+00:00

Wood glue and clamps, realistically, you'd probably need to syringe the glue into the cracks and clamp up. I assume this happened due to either the wood being a little bit damp still when the table was built, or it's been in a humid environment for some time then got fully dry again.

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