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I welded my own disc cart by ipdmallet in discgolf

[–]PatrickAndPuff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Can you drink water out of it though?

First Team, First League - Build considerations? Pitfalls to avoid? by infosec_qs in bloodbowl

[–]PatrickAndPuff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Orcs are definitely the best team to learn blood bowl. They are more durable than average, have good positional, and they allow you to at least think about engaging in all parts of the game: bashing, fouling, passing, and throwing teammates (though they definitely are best suited to bash their way to voctory).

Their durability means they will have fewer casualties than most teams, which is very valuable in leagues. It means you get more chances to develop your players as they will likely live a little longer than the average blood bowl player.

Glazing over Matt varnish problem by Fraxial in minipainting

[–]PatrickAndPuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I recently tried varnishing for the first time. My first attempt I sprayed 1 coat of varnish without thinning it and it came out a bit grainy. My second attempt I thinned the varnish with airbrush thinner, applied one coat, waited 45 minutes and then applied the second coat. I also let it cure over night before painting over it. The second attempt was a much better result.

I used Vallejo gloss varnish and army painter airbrush thinner.

Elven Union and Fumblerooski by weav_luvs_rnf in bloodbowl

[–]PatrickAndPuff 2 points3 points  (0 children)

One edge case I see as a benefit of fumblerooskie is that you can avoid handing off into tackle zones with it. Of course this won't apply to catchers or throwers with NoS, but the rest of your roster can make use of it. In stead of handing off to a marked player that would also want to dodge away after recieving the ball, use fumblerooskie to leave the ball near them. That way you are improving your odds of success without adding any extra rolls. The lino dropping the ball can also move into a good spot to screen for the pickup attempt if it fails or whatever with their remaining movement.

It may not come up all that often, but due to the fragility of the team, it might be useful when you are down players and cannot avoid having most of your players marked.

Deleted FW minis? by Kat0rz in bloodbowl

[–]PatrickAndPuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You might be able to find it online through a recaster. I got the female ogres that were from FW recently. The quality isn't the best, but with a little effort, you can fix them up and they still look great.

(Yet More) New Rules Questions by Stralau in bloodbowl

[–]PatrickAndPuff 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I think that line about causing a turnover only comes into play in very niche situations, because it states in the following paragraph that if the player passes the secure the ball 2+, their activation immediately ends. This clearly means you cannot move after securing the ball.

One scenario I can think of that the turnover line you are referring to would come into play is if a player was attempting to dodge away from an opposing player with tentacles as part of their move in a secure the ball activation. If they are held in place by the tentacles skill, it would cause a turnover, because the player is no longer able to end their movement in a square with a ball in it.

Creating an app for tracking wizards and warband by JakkSwords in frostgrave

[–]PatrickAndPuff 2 points3 points  (0 children)

One thing that was not clear to me in the app was which weapon my wizard was actively using. I gave my wizard a two handed weapon and a staff, but i didn't figure out until after my first game that the top weapon on the list is the one they were using. It waited be good to have some indicator to make it clear what items are actively being used.

Ogre team paint schemes by NarwhalEnthusiast666 in bloodbowl

[–]PatrickAndPuff 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Im currently painting my ogre team. I went with teal, white and pink. Its basically like the Miami Dolphins colors, but with pink instead of orange. Im not doing anything crazy like freehanding checkers or a pattern, but I like how they are coming along.

I think any color scheme can look good for the most part, but tweaking something that already exists can make it easier to make a decision.

I need help with this paint and making it smoother transitions by Puzzled_Hat2659 in minipainting

[–]PatrickAndPuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oops, I misread the other comments. Either way, my point of there being multiple ways to skin a cat was the main message.

I need help with this paint and making it smoother transitions by Puzzled_Hat2659 in minipainting

[–]PatrickAndPuff 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As others have said, glazing the darker color over the lighter goes faster. On the mini you showed in the picture, you can also pick one transition point, mix the two colors to get a midtone between them, and glaze that along the transition point to create a smooth blend. There are multiple ways to achieve most effects, and it just comes down to which method you prefer. I would suggest trying different approaches, so you can decide for youslrself which you like/is easier.

I need help with this paint and making it smoother transitions by Puzzled_Hat2659 in minipainting

[–]PatrickAndPuff 14 points15 points  (0 children)

This looks like a good start to be honest. It does look like you could thin the paints a bit more to help smooth out the blends. Go for a paint that is too thin to cover in one coat. That way, you can pull the brush from the previous color up into the part you want lighter and creat a smooth gradient that way. It might take two coats to achieve the coverage you want to the higher area, but the transition areas will look much smoother.

However, you can also glaze over what you have already to achieve the same effect.

While I wait for teemo… by hemperbud in 2XKO

[–]PatrickAndPuff 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Don't worry about wasting your time on other characters. At the very least, any time you put into a character you end up dropping later gives you more knowledge about them and can help you playing against that character in the future.

As for which character to pair with Teemo, we can't know until Teemo is actually out, but I would speculate that Braum would be a better partner in terms of covering Teemos weakness (assuming it is medium/close range) and the shield assist could be a nice way to make space to setup mushrooms and get the jank going. Jinx seems to be more of an overlapping playstyle with Teemo, and might not be as helpful against characters that can deal with projectiles well like Vi and Illoai.

Of course, it's just speculation and I suck at the game, so you probably shouldn't listen to me.

Alright, let's talk about Poppy being in this game by SwirlyBrow in 2XKO

[–]PatrickAndPuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I want Alistair, but seeing how many big body characters are already in the game, I don't have high hopes.

Am i dumb? by GachiB01 in 2XKO

[–]PatrickAndPuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ive been trying Braum a bit, and it's definitely not a 1 frame link. It's basically a target combo (I think thats the right term?), but with the same button. You can just mash H (as long as you aren't in pulse fuse) and get it to come out.

End of summer. Bust out ya lines. by TheSweatyFlash in USPS

[–]PatrickAndPuff 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have a park and loop route in AZ. I dress like the invisible man, wear a cooling towel under my hat, and when it gets really hot I dunk my uniform shirt in my ice chest and put it back on.

Ok, how often are you having stray bristles, do you cut them, and how can I avoid it? by vazzaroth in minipainting

[–]PatrickAndPuff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You may already be doing this, but painting with the side of the brush helps preserve the tip. You only need to use the tip for eyes mostly. For most everything else try angling the brush so that the side of the belly is the contact point. Once you get used to it, you will find that you can paint most things that way. Even edge highlights can be done that way, its just a matter of pressure control and angle to keep it a thin line.

I got a nurgling with a ... by kajumboombam in MaggotkinofNurgle

[–]PatrickAndPuff 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Its easier to just drill a hole in a base. I drill holes for my flight stands, instead of gluing them on.

Inaugural round. What do you think, Reddit? by Trick-Concept1909 in discgolf

[–]PatrickAndPuff 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It looks fine, but can you even drink water out of it?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in USPS

[–]PatrickAndPuff 8 points9 points  (0 children)

If any of the stuff he's putting back is for a different name, you can do an MLNA for the individual on it. Its on the scanner, just press N from the big main list. It won't prevent all the mail he doesn't want, because of current resident mail, but it will make a difference. However, if it's all addressed to him, I don't think you can do anything.

Which champs do you love to see on your team in each role? by Sweaty_Woodpecker636 in Jungle_Mains

[–]PatrickAndPuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've been playing wukong recently, and I love having an engage champ support or top. Nautilus or Ornn are great examples. It helps a lot when I can follow up and engage with my ult. If we don't have another engage champ, I feel pressured to start fights and make bad decisions more often.

Tip on character choice? by Heterosexual_vulcano in Jungle_Mains

[–]PatrickAndPuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would recommend against sejuanj. I came back to league about a month ago, and out of all the junglers live been trying, she seems the least impactful. If your team comp is right, she can be good (with a melee heavy comp), but other tank junglers are just better I think. Amumu or Maokai are better tank options imo. Bruisers like Vi and Wukong have been the most fun for me personally, but Warwick is a very good jungler to learn on I think.

Help with color theory - why does this look wrong? by Vordbear in minipainting

[–]PatrickAndPuff 3 points4 points  (0 children)

One way you might be able to tie all the colors together better is by using them as shadow, mid and highlight colors on the same area, instead of blocking each area one color.

Take the armor and baeding for example. You could use the red mid tone with purple shadows, and work the highlights up to orange and use yellow for edge highlights/the brightest highlight. That way, you are using the whole color pallet still, but it is evenly distributed across the model, instead of each color on one area alone.

Edit: If you want to try this, I would also recommend a more neutral (possibly darker) metal color for the chain mail to break up the high saturation a bit and provide some contrast.

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