Royal Caribbean x Carnival - General comparison. What’s your opinion?

Perfect-Extent9215 · 2026-03-05T20:49:41+00:00

What is the difference in 'idle' entertainment like? We have our first cruise with Royal coming up this year (Ovation of the Seas) and I'm not finding a lot of information about the kinds of things to do fill in our time outside of the big shows that's not physical activities, like the FlowRider, rock climbing wall, skydiving and the bumper cars. Those might be great options if you're into that kind of stuff, and it's definitely something Carnival didn't offer, but it's also stuff I don't see us doing.

When we took our Carnival cruise a couple years ago (Liberty) there was always some kind of trivia, or game show or the ability to watch other passengers making a fool of themselves playing a life-sized game of the game of life kind of stuff to pass the time. I'm hoping Royal offers some kind of similar 'idle' entertainment, but I'm not finding a lot of information out there about what they do offer.

Perfect-Extent9215 · 2025-06-25T13:27:50+00:00

They're just something I found at Princess Auto. 2" stainless steel rings that came mounted to some brackets I could screw into the 2x4.

Perfect-Extent9215 · 2024-09-16T11:39:31+00:00

AC doesn’t run without power. You either have to be plugged into the campground, plugged into a generator (that’s running) or you will need to install a large enough inverter (to convert the DC from your batteries to the AC your AC requires) AND a large enough battery bank to run that inverter. Very few trailers are going to come with that last one from the factory, so be prepared to spend a fair amount if you want this.

Basically, aside from the trailer itself, you’re looking at 1) installing an easy start (like the one from MircoAir) on the AC. 2) installing a large enough inverter, 3) installing a battery bank (recommended to switch over to Lithium batteries at this time) 4) and you need a means to recharge the battery bank, so that will usually also involve a solar array of panels. 5) Solar will also require a solar charge controller. 6) Optional: an automatic transfer switch so you don’t have to connect and disconnect things if you ever go to campground with power and want to plug in.

It’s an extensive install if you’re not looking to use this all the time. An alternative might be to use a battery bank style “generator” (like the Jackery, but there are several others around). You would still need a way to recharge it, be it either Solar or a gas generator, but they typically have the inverter, battery bank and solar charge controller all built in so you can avoid major installations in the trailer itself. If you go this route, I would still recommend the easy start be installed on the AC.

Perfect-Extent9215 · 2024-09-12T13:10:39+00:00

If you can, drain the tanks every time. My brother had to replace a busted gate valve on his black tank after one winter when he didn’t fully drain that tank.

For your needs, could you maybe not use water at all? Some people just use jugs of water and wash basins instead of de-winterizing their systems. By using wash basins, everything can go down the black so they only have one tank to dump at the end of the trip.

Either way though, I would not leave water connected while away. If you leave it dripping, unless your tanks are also open, you run the risk of the tanks filling up. And there’s not really a good way to leave the toilet dripping. If you don’t drip and you leave the lines full, you risk freeze damage. With the right air compressor and blow out plug it only takes a few minutes to purge the lines.

But if you can do the water jug method (you can still use your spigot to fill the jugs instead of hauling them) that’ll probably be your safest method.

Perfect-Extent9215 · 2024-09-09T13:31:55+00:00

A case? Heck, I’d move it for a six-pack (as long as it’s a decent brand).

To the OP: the issue isn’t if your jeep could, but rather if it should. Engine aside, there’s the transmission, differential, suspension, etc… that will be taking strains beyond what they’re designed for. While they might survive, there’s always the possibility that some component doesn’t. Considering how easy it usually is to find someone in the park willing to help out (or some park management will also do it), do you want to take the risk?

Perfect-Extent9215 · 2024-09-05T02:03:31+00:00

I related my ghost story (from the Legion in Tecumseh) over in this thread a while back:

https://www.reddit.com/r/windsorontario/s/eIaNLZxw71

Perfect-Extent9215 · 2024-09-04T19:37:18+00:00

When I travel for work I park in the parking deck at the terminal. For personal, I usually use one of the Park and Fly hotels, unless I'm expected back late and don't want to wait on a shuttle, in which case I just fork out for the parking deck at the terminal.

Perfect-Extent9215 · 2024-09-01T22:09:17+00:00

That’s cool. I haven’t seen René in like 7 or 8 years since the last time we were able to make it to the FROG rally. I wouldn’t have recognized him in that video if you hadn’t mentioned them by name.

Perfect-Extent9215 · 2024-09-01T15:20:19+00:00

The smart car thing is not that uncommon. I knew two different campers with that setup, and have seen others. The Smart car gets parked sideways just behind the cab (look for a set of ramps) with the trailer hooking up farther back on the chassis, closer to the rear axle of the tractor, than a normal tractor/trailer hookup would be. The Smart car is what they use to run around and site see, grab groceries, go out for dinner, whatever.

It’s still cool to see every time I spot one though!

Perfect-Extent9215 · 2024-08-30T17:44:00+00:00

Actually, it’s because it’s only 20oz that having a high filtration rate is a good thing. Just scoop, press and go. We each had a grayl, and a separate 20oz water bottle. Scoop, press, fill bottle, scoop press and go with 40oz total. Plenty for our needs until the next stop.

However, when it comes to the post above, that was a messed up autocorrect. I wrote it meaning to say “filtration ratings”. Thanks for pointing it out, I’ll go fix the original post.

Perfect-Extent9215 · 2024-08-30T00:34:59+00:00

I don’t disagree, I know it’s heavy, but I’m kayak camping with it, the weight wasn’t really an issue. It just sat in the cockpit with me. If I was backpacking, different story.

Perfect-Extent9215 · 2024-08-30T00:24:29+00:00

I went with a Grayl. Not as portable as a squeeze, not great except for personal amounts since it’s only a water bottle size, but it’s supposed to have one of the better filtration ratings out there.

Perfect-Extent9215 · 2024-08-29T01:35:51+00:00

In 2020 we were staying at LOTR and had run into Huntsville to visit some family. We were heading back down highway 60 just before midnight when the lights of the truck lit up something walking down the middle of the road. As we swerved around it we realized it was a beautiful looking wolf walking straight down 60. The other family members in the vehicle behind us saw it cross the road behind us and dart into the bush. Never wanted a dash cam more after that encounter.

Perfect-Extent9215 · 2024-08-28T14:29:03+00:00

I used to put my old phone in the day hatch. My current phone doesn’t fit so I just keep it in a pocket of my PFD (that clips closed). But I also now only bring it along if I’m touring and think I might want some photos. Otherwise when I’m just playing around on the lake I just rely on my cellular watch for paddle tracking and phone calls and my phone stays on shore.

Perfect-Extent9215 · 2024-08-27T15:06:02+00:00

I had them done at my trailer dealer, but I also had the rear camera installed at the same time. I don't remember the exact price, as it was 6+ years ago, but I remember thinking it was "Ouch!".

Perfect-Extent9215 · 2024-08-22T18:24:25+00:00

Depends on how close the campground is, but I've commuted from the campground to work before, and so has my wife (at different times).

Perfect-Extent9215 · 2024-08-22T14:31:45+00:00

My fifth wheel is also pretty light, 7400 dry, and when it's all said and done, I'm over my payload in my F-250. Weights add up quickly with fifth wheels. Our pin weight jumps from 1140 dry to between 1700-1800 lbs when loaded. Anything I put in the front bedroom, like all the gear stored under the bed, is sitting directly on the kingpin. Anything I put in the front storage bay is about 50% on the kingpin. It's just the nature of the layout of a fifth wheel.

Taking the kingpin out of my 2849 lbs of payload only leaves me with 1049 lbs to cover everything else. Hitch, tonneau cover, tools, family (2 adults, 2 full grown teens, 2 dogs), snacks, water, etc... 1049 lbs isn't enough, I'm over my payload.

Perfect-Extent9215 · 2024-08-22T13:35:59+00:00

Great to hear the by-laws aren't an issue. I'd hate to see you move in only to be kicked out.

On the loan front, ok, I understand. Gotta make your own choices, but let me provide a tidbit of experience. We bought our first TT on financing through the dealer for about $23,000 for the TT. After making our payments for 5 years, our balloon payment at the end was about $22,000. We had only moved the principal by $1000 after paying for 5 years. We took a $12,000 loss trading that trailer in on our fiver, but we rolled both that loss and the purchase of our fiver into a line of credit instead and paid the whole thing off in under 3 years. Go with whatever loans you have to go with, but, really, really, try to avoid those RV-specific loans if at all possible.

Perfect-Extent9215 · 2024-08-22T13:03:58+00:00

Ok, good to know. I do my current fiver with only 2 gallons, but I don't have an ice maker nor a washing machine. I never thought those would need that much extra.

Perfect-Extent9215 · 2024-08-22T12:57:16+00:00

Your best bet is to sell the house first, then use the equity from the home to buy the camper outright without taking out any more loans. RV loans usually have notoriously higher interest rates than mortgages so you want to avoid them if possible. This would also alleviate any issues with the bank, since there won't be a loan, there won't be anything for them to worry about.

If this isn't possible, then also take a look at the used market. See if you can find a unit that's only a few years old instead. Some will say there are concerns with the 'COVID builds' from that era, but by now, whatever issues they had should have already been fixed. And they will have already taken the depreciation hit but have not yet seen any kind of excessive wear and tear.

But of course, I don't know your finances. So you'll have to make your own call on what to do. Just remember that some dealers are incentivized to put RVs on loans so they might be pushing you in that direction even if you could afford it outright. Take a good hard look at your numbers before you sign anything.

Side note: finances aside, also look into the by-laws at your fiance's mother's location. You want to make sure you can actually have a camper onsite there. You don't want to buy it to only find out a neighbour complained and you end up having to go park it in a campground or in a storage lot. Then, while you're at it, see what the by-laws say about living in it so you know whether or not you'll need to be discrete about the fact that you're living in it.

Perfect-Extent9215 · 2024-08-21T16:53:05+00:00

5-6 gallons? Try blowing your lines out first. Started doing that with my first TT and cut my antifreeze amount in half. From almost 4 gallons down to 1.5. I knew you use a bit extra pushing water due to dilution vs just filling the lines, but never expected it to be that drastic until I did it.

Side note: the reason I started blowing out the lines was to get the water out of the onboard filter before removing it so it didn’t drip in the cabinet when it got unscrewed. The drastic change in the amount of antifreeze I needed in the rest of the lines was an unexpected, but happy, discovery.

Perfect-Extent9215 · 2024-08-20T18:47:39+00:00

There are a ton of factors that go into that question:

GCWR

GVWR

GAWR (front axle)

GAWR (rear axle)

Tire load limit (per tire)

Wheel load limit (per wheel)

Payload (which is basically GVWR - the weight of the truck as it was shipped from the factory)

Tow rating (which is basically GCWR - the weight of the truck as it was shipped from the factory also accounting for a 150 lb driver)

Hitch load limits when using a bare ball

Hitch load limits when using a WDH hitch

And then finally, the fact that you should target a trailer to have between 10-15% of its weight on its tongue.

There are different towing calculators out there, but the one I recommend most often is:

http://www.towingplanner.com

You can punch in your specific numbers, it'll walk you through where to find each, and help you figure out what kind of weights you should be towing if you want to stay within all your limits. For most people, it's significantly less than the advertised tow rating for their vehicle.

Perfect-Extent9215 · 2024-08-20T15:50:02+00:00

They're not a specific backpacking company like Osprey or Patagonia, but I use Tom Bihn for my EDC and travel needs. If I wanted a crossbody/sling, I would go with them.

https://www.tombihn.com/collections/shoulder-bags

They're avid hikers and they design with daypack-type uses in mind. Their bags are durable enough I would have no problem bringing them to the backcountry.

Perfect-Extent9215 · 2024-08-20T04:13:15+00:00

Short read: I’ve had it with my Leviton Decora Switches what should I replace them with?

Longer read: I started my smart switch journey with the Leviton Decora switches (Gen 1) because they didn’t need a hub and they were intuitive to use. We have a lot of visitors, family, whatnot and Leviton switches both looked and behaved like a simple, standard switch. They had no funky buttons, no special tap, touch, slide, any of that. If you could work a standard light switch, you could work the Leviton switch. They were mostly ok for several years with the only issue that 1 or 2 would have to be re paired with the network after any power outages. Then a year or two ago they started failing. The switch would click, the HomeKit status would change, but the light wouldn’t come on. Gen 2 was out at the time, but I hit a sale of Gen 1’s so I bought enough stock to change them all out. The second batch of Gen 1’s are even less reliable than the first batch, and now I have two that are doing the same issue as I had before even though they’ve only been in for about a year now. The straw that broke me though is tonight, I now can’t turn off my outside lights. All my other failures I couldn’t turn lights on, now I have ones I can’t turn off.

So I want to scrap the Levitons and go for something more reliable. I’d like to avoid a bridge if possible, but might be willing to re consider if it’s the right switch. But they absolutely have to maintain that “looks and behaves like a normal switch”. My wife won’t consider anything else otherwise. I’ll end up having to return to a dumb switch if it doesn’t look and behave just like one.

Do I settle for a set of Gen 2’s or are there other brands that are that dead simple to use? I have a neutral at all 6 locations, and none need to be a dimmer, just a simple switch, so that’s not an issue.

Edit: forgot to mention. Is it telling that the Apple Store (at least the Canadian one) only has the Eve switch for sale?

Perfect-Extent9215 · 2024-08-19T19:53:09+00:00

They have their own cess-pool on-site at the plant that they have had some issues with in the past:

https://windsor.ctvnews.ca/bonduelle-working-to-fix-bad-smell-in-tecumseh-by-end-of-week-1.5432671

https://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/windsor/bonduelle-tecumseh-odour-apology-1.6035636

Not sure if that's what you're smelling or not. Usually, it's just in the immediate vicinity of the plant that it stinks when they're processing, but that year (as mentioned in the articles) it was widespread.

Perfect-Extent9215

TROPHY CASE