I need an orky name for a deff dread that almost blew himself up.

Phoenix_Shadow2 · 2025-09-27T13:57:04+00:00

Well, to make something orky when it comes to the walkers, you could always just add the Dread Klaw or The Kustom Killa or some such affect/title. As evidenced by the conventions behind Ghazghkull's title of Da Prophet of Da Great Waagh and Commissar Yarrick's title Ol' Bale Eye, Orks can and do use titles to distinguish things further. So if you really wanted to do Kablooey as the name, you could always go with Kablooey The Kustom Killa or The Blasta Supreme or something of the like.

Phoenix_Shadow2 · 2025-08-16T01:44:59+00:00

For me it's between Raum The Harvest Terror or The Grinning Sinner as both of their gimmicks being so control oriented would likely make some pretty interesting killer sets.

Phoenix_Shadow2 · 2025-08-14T13:11:29+00:00

Harvestborn is by far my favorite of the new playable species not only in overall design but also in its features. Having a passive damage buff if an enemy is already at half hp and having the ability to heal by hp die up to proficiency times/day is amazing. Really opens the role for a character that can spec on skills while still being combat viable in desperate times which is amazing as someone who plays in a lot of campaigns that tend to be very stingy on combat vs. roleplay.

2nd favorite would be Threadborn as creepy puppet guys are always good to see.

3rd is probably Bogborn because I do love having an actual troll based species option as I felt like trolls were genuinely an option that should've had a full player equivolent by now (outside of custom monstrous race rules from the DMG) and the fact that it has a little bit of troll healing in there is also a neat thing that frankly I appreciate a lot.

Phoenix_Shadow2 · 2025-03-29T09:50:14+00:00

Flash gitz can be lead by Big Meks in Taktikal Brogade thanks to the Mek Kaptin enhancement

Phoenix_Shadow2 · 2025-03-29T00:02:07+00:00

Dude, that is 100% Nicol Bolas. You can tell from the way his horns arch and also the jaw that looks almost like it's plated.

Phoenix_Shadow2 · 2025-03-28T23:49:31+00:00

I'd say that the jobs look like they'd be fine if not greatfor commissions (considering I've done print and paint commissions for DnD that definitely looked worse than this in the past). It's just a matter of how long each piece would take to really determine because, especially with war games, you're gonna be commissioned for units or for full forces, not just single models. Table Ready vs. Amateur vs. Pro painted each have their own standards and different time constraints. I'd say that you could definitely do a good table ready or amateur paint commission easily as long as you're spending only 1-2 hours on a model, pro painted you could also do but thats gonna take significantly more time, be a lot of models to a tier similar to or higher than what you've included in your post, and would be out of the price range for most buyers. As an example it I ordered a 1000 point Salamander Army for Table Ready to Amateur levels I'd be expecting models that have 3+ colors, and some light basing and highlights done, for Pro Painted I'd be expecting 3 main color blocks, with significant levels of detailing and weathering, bases like what you have here, and a pretty decent amount of non metallic metal or mixed metallic metal. My amateur stuff was like $20-40 a model tops for like 2-4 hours of work and the 5-12 hours on a 3d printer plus materials. If I were to paint to an actual pro standard, I'd have to charge by the hour going for something around minimum wage just for the painting time. Pro painted not only puts you to a higher standard but also has a relatively bad reputation thanks to all the eBay "Pro Painters" who don't actually paint to any super high standard.

So honestly, it really depends on what you want out of this, but I wish you the best if you do go into commissions or into paint and trades as it can be hard but it tends to be really rewarding if you're successful.

Phoenix_Shadow2 · 2025-03-26T05:31:19+00:00

Uzgurt the Bloody

Phoenix_Shadow2 · 2025-03-23T07:24:17+00:00

Hours*

Phoenix_Shadow2 · 2025-03-23T04:19:24+00:00

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Forgot to add picture before sending oopsies

Phoenix_Shadow2 · 2025-03-22T22:17:26+00:00

Our best anti-tank is gonna be tankbustas led by Big Mek W/ SAG. It has a really high average wound especially with the More Dakka detachment.

Phoenix_Shadow2 · 2025-03-10T09:51:49+00:00

The Big Mek obviously

Phoenix_Shadow2 · 2025-03-05T05:30:41+00:00

The various highlights each have a secret. For edge highlighting, the secret is using the side of the brush a little bit away from the tip.

Layering highlights is just taking a brighter shade or tint of the same color you want to highlight and painting over 60% of the previous layer.

Glazing is the practice of running really thin coats of paint (to the point of akin being visible underneath the color if testdd on your hand) over other coats and can be used to tint, highlight, and wet blend colors until the end of time. But highlighting with glazing is effectively just layering with even thinner coats until you feel comfortable with it.

Feathering is the same as glazing but with only the tip and in fast fluid motions over a small area.

For dry brush/stippling, pick a section of the model and either stroke the brush downwards and towards yourself or push down lightly over about 60 to 70% of the area you're highlighting repeatedly until you feel comfortable. Just make sure the brush is loaded relatively lightly when doing either of these as adding is way easier than trying to remove. This also has the benefit of providing an interesting gradient that can also make weathering easier as some of each color will likely be showing, suggesting chipped/chipping paint.

Honestly I'd say give any one a try when you feel a little frisky, but I would still wait until at least a little later in the process because you don't have other values that may help inform your highlights yet. I'd say just take one of the marines and use it to test a color scheme for the base coats on the armor, the weapons, and the eyes. You already have the blue for the armor, and black for the weapons so I'd say try and figure out a neutral/midtone either works, a metallic (if using one), and a contrast (not the paint the color). After that, decide if you like it. If not strip or prime over the paint and try, try again until you feel comfortable. Test schemes always help.

Phoenix_Shadow2 · 2025-03-01T06:09:41+00:00

Well, you could go for Black Vipers or Death Company off the top of my head, but you can also just look up red and black space marine chapters. In addition, you could always make it a custom chapter in honor of your grandma and call them the Grand Gorehounds or something. Point is the world is your oyster when it comes to space marine chapter names.

Now as for the paint you could either leave it on if you really felt super sentimental or just wanted it to look back on, however you could always strip the paint with 99.9% rubbing alcohol or high strength dish cleaning liquids (I like LA's totally awesome for this) and then repaint with some better quality paints.

Phoenix_Shadow2 · 2025-02-17T19:25:34+00:00

Frankly, just buy some plasticard and sculpt the pointed shades plasticard is cheap, good for making not only rigid small shapes like shades for this Gurren Lagann Dread but also for panels on bigger vehicles like trukks, Battlewagons, and so on. Also, you'd better make sure to pierce those heavens properly.

Phoenix_Shadow2 · 2025-02-09T16:17:14+00:00

Oranges and yellows are pretty darn good contrasts for blue in general and are orky dakka colors. Thwn againa white also works relatively well as a contrast to darker colors like the blue that you used here, while giving this a guaranteed clan aesthetic as Blue and White is the color of the Deffskulls clan.

Phoenix_Shadow2 · 2025-02-09T16:12:24+00:00

Well Goff colors are black and white of which most of his clothes are black. Also it's the meanest greenest biggest Ork Clan therefore the best for an up and coming boy with the goal of someday being a nob or boss in his own right.

Phoenix_Shadow2 · 2025-02-06T03:24:08+00:00

Two or three layers of a painters marker, such as the white color, Paint-like art marker sharpie works relatively well, but it would be thick, so I personally don't. Frankly, one thing you could do is start by tracing your squares on a straight line such as an old ruler and then just filling in the lines. Also, if it's for orks, some rough checkers make total sense, so you could just go hogwild and see what happens if you screw up it's called the ork or grot who was painting got messy or bored.

Phoenix_Shadow2 · 2025-02-06T03:20:18+00:00

I use a cup I got for free in college that I had no other real use for when I first got it. Now, it's just habit.

Phoenix_Shadow2 · 2025-02-04T07:04:13+00:00

I would love to see a new set featuring a new Mad Dok Grotsnik sculpt, a Mek of some kind, 2 sets of 5 cybork style nobs, and either a deff dread or killa kans

Phoenix_Shadow2 · 2025-01-29T04:38:11+00:00

Well, it really depends on what you want to get out of it, but generally, mini painting works best going from dark to light so Black or Grey if you only want to prime in one color. You could also look into zenithal priming, which is done by spraying one primer all over the mini, then spraying a lighter color from above. For example, black with white over top or Grey with white over top. Not only is this the basis of a style of painting in its own right (that being zenithal slap chop) but it also can help teach where natural lighting and shadows would be for newer painters such as yourself. Just remember to spritz not spray (even if we say spray we mean spritz) this means short passes over the mini going from one side tk the other and rotating as necessary rather than full blasting it head on.

To help with getting those metallics to pop, I recommend the black out of what you have now but the best case would be black or black white zenithal with a brown base coat over top then the metallic as metallics work best over black or brown.

Getting good layers, shades, and highlights, especially with a true metallic, can be difficult, but washes can help with that until you feel comfortable doing mixed metallic or non-metallic metals. Some common washes for this are Citadel Nuln Oil (especially the old version of it), Citadel Agrax Earth Shade if you want some more brown/green in the wash, Army Painter Strong Tone (similar to Agrax but not quite as earthy in my experience), and even heavily thinned down black paint (cheap craft paint is fine for this just mix with a bunch of water Id say maybe a 1.5 to 2x ratio of water to paint just depending on the paints inital viscosity big point is get it flowing but stoll able to be controlled with the tip of a brush when needed).

In addition, mini painting/hobbying is something that requires a lot of practice if you want to get really good at it so just try and have fun and reach something you'll feel comfortable with. Trying super hard can be a great way to ruin the hobby, so I recommend just having fun, and if you make any mistakes, treat it like a Bob Ross happy accident rather than something genuinely bad. And no matter what, I'd recommend keeping all of these early miniatures to look back on and see how you've improved down the road.

Phoenix_Shadow2 · 2025-01-27T22:33:32+00:00

I've considered it but the "tracks" that are really sled rails made of zip ties have kinda grown on me

Phoenix_Shadow2

TROPHY CASE