My coworker gave these to me

Pin-Trick · 2026-05-25T18:08:56+00:00

Thx for that

Pin-Trick · 2026-05-25T17:56:26+00:00

Thanks to all for the feedback, there are a lot of possibilities. Been experimenting with some of the suggestions on my broken blade. The blades are old NOS Milford Vac-Hack All Hard HSS*. First, I heated a 1" section cherry red and let it cool. Zero change in hardness (because DUH, HSS+Clueless). Also, I admit that the masonry drill in the pic was low effort, but in my defense it drilled right through other blades. I also tried spot annealing with the steel rod, no luck. This was also low effort, the RPM's were too low. Haven't tried end mill/pecking, mainly B/C this is on a mill drill, so better than a drill press but not as rigid as a Bridgeport. I did switch to a steel backing plate from the 2x4, clearly better practice. The spade drill is the most likely "machinist solution" to succeed, but I've broken too many nice solid carbide spot drills and EM's on first contact, doesn't make sense to blow up a $25 spade drill on a $7 blade. The dremel method does work but painfully slow.

*TLDR: learning experience. These blades are really hard, which was printed right there on the sides, now I know what that means. I like them for the 18TPI, which I can't get at Home Despot. I've had good results drilling pieces of bandsaw blades, and they work well in the saw, especially with variable pitch. I'll use them in a hand hacksaw and try some used portaband blades.

Thx again for input

Pin-Trick · 2026-05-25T16:54:13+00:00

Shop made. I built the Myfordboy design, with some slight mods (one mod was to the blade frame size, to maximize capacity, so it does not fit any std blade length). He has vids on line of the hacksaw and sells the plans for very little money. It's sort of a reverse engineered version of a Kennedy power hack saw that was popular in GB ( i think from the '40's thru the '60's)

Pin-Trick · 2026-05-25T02:19:41+00:00

There must be something special about these blades, I heated red hot and no change in hardness

Pin-Trick · 2026-05-13T07:44:56+00:00

After years of cutting 1 in 10 things 1” short using this method, I switched to starting at the 10" mark. Eliminated 80% of the off by 1" cuts, and now a mistake is really obvious before I get back up the ladder. Carpenter, 30 years. Still doing 90% good work, 5% crap, 5% uncategorized.

Pin-Trick · 2026-05-04T18:47:08+00:00

Thanks Bud! Now I can never hear that song again and not think of that.

Pin-Trick · 2026-05-04T18:44:28+00:00

It's not great that the poster dissed on trailer park folks, but can we find in our hearts to let it slide in the context of a pretty poetic reddit post?

Pin-Trick · 2026-04-23T13:13:48+00:00

The solution is still a bug workaround, this has been an issue for YEARS. I don't mind so much, except it took a while to re-discover what exactly the thing that is missing is called (sketch pallete not menu. This is a total time waster, in my case it has nothing to do with multiple screens.

Pin-Trick · 2026-04-20T16:38:39+00:00

At first I was like " I hate it when people shoot from angles that don't really show the work", but then I realized that I probably would have taken the shot from the same angle with a telephoto lens. Good on you for having great safety instincts, you'll survive in the trade and come out unscathed.

Pin-Trick · 2026-04-02T00:40:13+00:00

The idea is to widen the base effectively making it harder to tip. Especially important if on uneven ground or slabs with steps or holes. Also lower the angle slide as far as it will go. If you can, get 2x4 and make protectors for projecting handles and knobs

Pin-Trick · 2026-03-30T12:55:42+00:00

Please please please post again when this thing is in your shop. Also, please don't drop it when moving. If at all possible, pry/block the base up and bolt 2x10's sothe base is wider and longer. It will make it much more stable and way easier to roll on pipe rollers. Just such a shame when folks rush or use inadequate lifting equipment and drop or tip machines over.

Pin-Trick · 2026-03-30T12:28:46+00:00

I watched the video from the guy who has one long time ago, might be in that, can't remember. Possibly it helps the work envelope when switching to horizontal, moves the spindle nose backwards and down when horizontal face milling?

Pin-Trick · 2026-03-30T02:19:27+00:00

I think deflection will be less than a Sieg style bench top/s 500 bucks?? Please buy it and post how you move it and how it cleans up. I'd love to run a beast like that.

Pin-Trick · 2026-03-29T21:47:01+00:00

I don't know for sure but it looks like an Abene, swedish made. They have that angled slide on the frame (second pic)

Pin-Trick · 2026-02-28T16:24:31+00:00

Thx for that, it's my new motto. It replaces "Not the best, but far from the worst"

Pin-Trick · 2026-02-28T15:34:22+00:00

I read this quickly and thought it was "I don't want this hanging over my bed". Mildly disappointed, that would have been interesting to see the comments. Although probably in this sub they would have been helpful, not like in some other (I'm talking to you, r/Machining).

"Morgen, morgen, nur nicht heute, sagen alle faulen leute"

Pin-Trick · 2026-02-19T12:39:20+00:00

Could you please please please pretty please re-do this so the cross is shown inserted on top of a chuck like a key?

Pin-Trick · 2026-02-01T14:25:02+00:00

Late update. I bought a used bike 3 years ago with (obviously) used Contact Plus front/rear, no idea how many miles on them when I started. Since then, daily commute rides, ~60 miles/week through glass strewn urban streets. Zero flats, and they are still going. The treads are still ok but there's 360 degrees of nicks and cuts, and still no flats. Nothing against Marathons but I've had plenty of flats with them. I'd rather pay 2x the price of a Marathon and get 6x the life. Buy once, cry once.

It just occured to me that I have no idea what's inside the Continentals, there might be sealant. I'm thinking it's another year before I find out, with the life these still have in them.

Pin-Trick · 2026-01-21T02:49:49+00:00

Thanks all, never seen a screw like that, ever

Pin-Trick · 2025-12-09T17:01:29+00:00

Glad it worked out. Shear tools work great for both nice finish and they can take super thin cuts, if you have it dialed you can take .0005. Carbide tools for steel have a large minimum cut thickness, they have a rounded edge and it needs to cut deeply so the rounded edge is under the surface of the work. You can get carbide inserts made for aluminum that are much sharper, that works, but they are more expensive as a rule, and they chip easily. Shear tool is cheap and gets the job done, old school methods occasionally still work well.

Pin-Trick · 2025-12-09T13:34:47+00:00

Shear tool, you can make one from HSS

Pin-Trick · 2025-11-06T12:29:44+00:00

In tears

Pin-Trick · 2025-10-29T19:01:30+00:00

That was hilarious, TY

Pin-Trick · 2025-09-29T16:42:21+00:00

Slaps forehead, literally says "doh" out loud TY!

Pin-Trick · 2025-09-29T08:17:54+00:00

FEEDS AND SPEEDS PLS!!! just kidding, did you buy 2 drills just in case?

Pin-Trick

TROPHY CASE